Bold Jumping Spider (Phidippus audax) Care Sheet
The Bold Jumping Spider (Phidippus audax) is a compact, intelligent-looking and highly visual jumping spider that is increasingly maintained as a captive invertebrate pet.
Closely related to the popular Regal Jumping Spider (Phidippus regius), the Bold Jumper has its own distinctive appearance. Adults are generally black with contrasting white markings and striking metallic green or blue-green chelicerae. Juveniles can display orange markings that gradually change as they mature.
Phidippus audax is a diurnal active hunter. Rather than constructing a prey-catching web, it uses excellent vision to locate prey, stalk it and leap onto it. Like other jumping spiders, it attaches a silk safety line before jumping.
Females generally reach approximately 8–15 mm in body length, while males are usually around 6–13 mm.
For home keepers, its relatively modest enclosure requirements, daytime activity and fascinating hunting behaviour make it an appealing display spider.
Successful husbandry requires a secure vertically orientated enclosure, excellent ventilation, abundant climbing and anchor points near the top, appropriate warmth, regular access to drinking droplets and suitably sized captive-bred prey.
Quick Facts
Scientific name: Phidippus audax
Common names: Bold Jumping Spider, Bold Jumper
Order: Araneae
Family: Salticidae
Origin: Primarily North America
Adult female body length: Approximately 8–15 mm
Adult male body length: Approximately 6–13 mm
Lifestyle: Arboreal/vertical-surface active hunter
Activity: Diurnal
Diet: Carnivorous
Temperature: Approximately 20–27°C
Humidity: Moderate; hydration and ventilation are more important than chasing a fixed percentage
Housing: Individual
Handling: Limited and optional
Experience level: Beginner to intermediate
Major requirements: Secure enclosure, cross ventilation, upper-level structure, drinking droplets and appropriately sized prey
Natural Distribution
Phidippus audax has an extensive North American distribution.
It occurs from parts of Canada south through much of the United States into northern Mexico, with additional introduced populations outside its original range.
Natural Habitat
The species occupies a wide variety of habitats including:
- Grasslands
- Prairies
- Open woodland
- Old fields
- Gardens
- Agricultural environments
- Urban and suburban areas
This adaptability is one reason P. audax is frequently encountered around human habitation.
Appearance
Adults are typically predominantly:
black with contrasting pale markings.
The abdomen usually carries a prominent central marking accompanied by smaller spots.
Juvenile Colouration
Young Bold Jumping Spiders can have:
orange or yellowish abdominal markings.
These markings frequently become white as the spider matures.
Chelicerae
One of the most attractive features is the spider’s:
iridescent green chelicerae.
Depending upon lighting and viewing angle, these can appear green, turquoise or blue-green.
Eyes
Like other jumping spiders, P. audax possesses:
eight eyes.
The enormous forward-facing anterior median eyes are particularly noticeable.
Vision
Jumping spiders possess exceptionally well-developed vision compared with most other spiders.
Vision is fundamental to:
- Hunting
- Navigation
- Recognising movement
- Courtship
- Assessing potential threats
P. audax actively watches and stalks prey before attacking.
Size
Females generally reach approximately:
8–15 mm in body length.
Males are typically:
6–13 mm.
Females are generally larger and more robust.
Behaviour
Bold Jumping Spiders are primarily:
diurnal.
This makes them particularly appealing as home display spiders because much of their activity occurs during normal daytime viewing hours.
Personality and Individual Behaviour
Individual jumping spiders can differ considerably in behaviour.
Some appear:
- Bold
- Curious
- Highly responsive
while others are:
- Cautious
- Easily startled
- More secretive
Do not expect every individual to behave identically.
Hunting
P. audax does not build a large prey-catching web.
Instead, it:
- Detects prey visually.
- Turns toward it.
- Stalks closer.
- Judges distance.
- Leaps onto the prey.
- Delivers a venomous bite.
Safety Line
Before jumping, the spider attaches:
a silk dragline.
If the jump fails, the silk can prevent the spider from falling completely away from its original surface.
Housing
A vertically orientated enclosure is preferable.
Jumping spiders naturally spend considerable time exploring:
- Walls
- Branches
- Leaves
- Upper enclosure surfaces
Enclosure Size
For an adult, an enclosure around:
15 × 15 × 20 cm
provides a useful general starting point.
Slightly larger enclosures can work well when they contain adequate structure.
Avoid Excessively Large Enclosures
An enormous enclosure is unnecessary.
Oversized housing can make it harder to:
- Monitor feeding
- Locate the spider
- Find uneaten prey
- Observe health and moulting
Front or Bottom Opening
Where possible, choose an enclosure that does not require the entire roof to be removed during routine maintenance.
Why Top-Opening Enclosures Can Be Problematic
Jumping spiders commonly build their sleeping and moulting hammock:
near the top of the enclosure.
Repeatedly removing a lid containing the hammock can destroy the spider’s retreat.
Front-opening, side-opening or bottom-opening designs can therefore be particularly useful.
Ventilation
Excellent ventilation is essential.
Provide:
cross ventilation
rather than relying on only a few holes in the lid.
Fine Ventilation
Ventilation holes must be small enough to prevent escape.
Juveniles require considerably finer ventilation than adults.
Furnishings
Provide plenty of three-dimensional structure.
Suitable furnishings include:
- Cork bark
- Fine branches
- Artificial foliage
- Pesticide-free live plants
- Safe climbing decorations
Upper Enclosure Structure
Pay particular attention to the:
upper third of the enclosure.
This is often the spider’s preferred living area.
Anchor Points
Provide numerous attachment points for silk.
These allow the spider to construct:
- Sleeping hammocks
- Moulting retreats
- Egg-sac retreats
Substrate
Suitable substrate options include:
- Coco fibre
- Organic topsoil
- Suitable soil mixtures
- Paper towel in simple setups
Substrate Depth
A deep burrowing substrate is unnecessary.
Approximately:
2–5 cm
is usually adequate.
Temperature
A useful captive range is approximately:
20–27°C.
Normal comfortable household temperatures are often suitable.
Warm Conditions
Moderate warmth encourages:
- Activity
- Feeding
- Digestion
- Growth
but excessive heat should be avoided.
Excessive Heat
Avoid sustained temperatures around or above:
30°C.
Small jumping-spider enclosures can overheat and dehydrate quickly.
Heating
Dedicated heating is often unnecessary in a normally heated home.
If supplemental heat is genuinely required, it should be:
gentle, external and thermostatically controlled.
Direct Sunlight
Never place the enclosure in direct sunlight.
A small transparent enclosure can become dangerously hot extremely quickly.
Humidity
Avoid obsessing over a single humidity percentage.
For P. audax, the more useful priorities are:
- Good ventilation
- Regular access to drinking droplets
- Avoiding chronic saturation
- Avoiding prolonged severe dehydration
Misting
Lightly mist:
one side of the enclosure or some foliage
as required to provide drinking droplets.
Do Not Flood the Enclosure
The enclosure should not remain permanently:
- Wet
- Condensation covered
- Stagnant
Allow surfaces to dry between hydration cycles.
Drinking
Jumping spiders readily drink from:
small water droplets.
Watching a jumper lower its mouthparts to a droplet is completely normal.
Water Dish
A conventional water bowl is generally unnecessary for such a small arboreal spider.
Controlled droplets provide a practical hydration method.
Lighting
Because P. audax relies heavily on vision and is active during daylight, provide a clear:
day/night cycle.
Natural Daylight
Indirect natural room lighting can work well.
Never confuse natural light with placing the enclosure in:
direct sunlight.
UVB
Dedicated UVB lighting is not required.
Feeding
Bold Jumping Spiders are:
carnivorous predators.
Feed appropriately sized captive-bred invertebrates.
Suitable Foods
Depending upon the spider’s size, suitable prey can include:
- Flightless fruit flies
- Houseflies
- Green bottle flies
- Small crickets
- Small cockroach nymphs
- Appropriately sized mealworms
- Other safe captive-bred feeder insects
Flying Prey
Flies are particularly useful because they encourage:
natural visual hunting behaviour.
Prey Size
Use prey the spider can overpower safely.
Young juveniles require much smaller prey than adults.
Feeding Frequency
Juveniles can generally be offered suitable food:
several times per week.
Healthy adults often require less frequent feeding.
Rather than following a rigid calendar, adjust feeding according to:
- Abdomen size
- Life stage
- Recent meals
- Moulting behaviour
Abdomen Condition
The abdomen provides a useful visual guide.
A very thin abdomen may indicate the spider needs food or hydration.
A very large, swollen abdomen generally indicates that additional feeding is unnecessary.
Do Not Overfeed
Constant feeding can produce an excessively enlarged abdomen.
This may increase the consequences of:
a fall or other injury.
Remove Dangerous Prey
Crickets and similar prey should not be left indefinitely with a spider that refuses food.
This is particularly important during:
pre-moult.
Wild-Caught Feeders
Avoid wild-caught prey.
Wild insects may carry:
- Pesticides
- Parasites
- Pathogens
- Other contaminants
Silk Hammock
Jumping spiders construct small silken retreats commonly called:
hammocks.
Hammock Uses
The spider may use a hammock for:
- Sleeping
- Resting
- Moulting
- Egg laying
- Protection
Do Not Destroy Hammocks
Avoid removing established hammocks during routine cleaning.
A thickened or sealed hammock may indicate:
pre-moult or egg laying.
Pre-Moult
Before moulting, the spider may:
- Stop eating
- Become less active
- Remain inside its hammock
- Thicken the silk
- Seal itself away
Do Not Disturb Pre-Moult
If a spider has sealed itself inside a hammock:
leave it alone.
Do not open the silk simply to check whether it is alive.
Moulting
Juveniles grow by shedding their exoskeleton.
This process is:
moulting or ecdysis.
During the Moult
Do not:
- Handle the spider
- Destroy its hammock
- Introduce dangerous live prey
- Spray the spider directly
while moulting.
Freshly Moulted Spider
After moulting, the spider is soft and vulnerable.
The:
- Exoskeleton
- Legs
- Chelicerae
- Fangs
require time to harden.
Feeding After Moulting
Wait until the spider:
emerges naturally and appears fully hardened
before resuming normal feeding.
Exuvia
The discarded exoskeleton is called the:
exuvia.
The spider may eventually push it out of the hammock.
Adult Moult
Once sexually mature, the spider no longer undergoes normal growth moults.
Handling
Some keepers allow jumping spiders to walk voluntarily onto their hands.
However, handling is:
optional, never necessary.
Safe Interaction
If handling is attempted:
- Allow the spider to approach voluntarily
- Remain close to a safe surface
- Avoid squeezing or restraining it
- Keep movements slow
- Prevent access to dangerous gaps
Jumping
Never forget that this animal is specifically adapted to:
jump.
A spider can leave a hand unexpectedly.
Handling Outdoors
Do not handle a captive jumping spider outdoors.
A single unexpected jump can result in permanent loss.
Bite Risk
Like other jumping spiders, P. audax possesses venom used to subdue prey.
Bites to humans are uncommon and are not generally considered medically dangerous, although local reactions can occur.
Bite Prevention
Avoid:
- Pinching
- Grabbing
- Crushing
- Trapping the spider against skin
A catch cup is preferable for necessary transfers.
Individual Housing
House Bold Jumping Spiders:
individually.
Why Not Communal?
They are predators.
Keeping individuals together can result in:
- Stress
- Injury
- Cannibalism
Sexing
Mature males and females can be distinguished relatively easily with experience.
Females
Females are generally:
- Larger
- More robust
- Larger through the abdomen
Males
Males are generally:
- Smaller
- More slender
- More contrasting in appearance
Mature males possess enlarged reproductive pedipalps.
Mature Male Pedipalps
The enlarged ends of the pedipalps are sometimes informally described as:
boxing gloves.
They are used during reproduction.
Breeding
Breeding should only be attempted when the keeper is prepared for:
potentially large numbers of spiderlings.
Courtship
Male P. audax performs a visual courtship display involving movements of the:
- Forelegs
- Pedipalps
- Body
Visual communication is particularly important in jumping spiders.
Introducing a Pair
Never simply house a male and female together permanently.
Introduce them under:
close supervision.
Female Condition
The female should be:
- Mature
- Healthy
- Well fed
before breeding is attempted.
Cannibalism
Cannibalism remains possible.
The male should always have an escape route.
Egg Sac
A gravid female constructs a:
dense silken egg retreat.
Maternal Care
Females guard their eggs and remain associated with the nest until the young hatch and eventually disperse.
Multiple Egg Sacs
A successfully mated female may produce:
more than one fertile egg sac.
A single mating can therefore potentially result in a substantial number of offspring.
Number of Eggs
Reported clutches can contain:
dozens to well over one hundred eggs, with substantial variation between clutches and females.
Do Not Disturb a Female With Eggs
A female guarding an egg sac should be disturbed as little as possible.
Do not repeatedly:
- Open her hammock
- Move the egg sac
- Destroy surrounding silk
Spiderlings
Newly emerged spiderlings are extremely small.
Before breeding, prepare:
- Secure rearing containers
- Fine ventilation
- Tiny feeder cultures
- Adequate time for individual care
Spiderling Food
Suitable first foods commonly include:
flightless fruit flies
and other appropriately tiny captive-bred prey.
Spiderling Escape Risk
Tiny spiderlings can escape through holes that easily contain an adult.
Ventilation must be:
extremely fine.
Separating Spiderlings
Young spiderlings may initially remain near siblings, but cannibalism becomes an increasing concern as they develop.
Individual rearing is safest once practical.
Juvenile Growth
As juveniles grow:
- Increase prey size
- Increase enclosure size gradually
- Maintain upper-level anchor points
- Continue careful hydration
Cleaning
Jumping-spider enclosures generally require:
light routine maintenance rather than constant deep cleaning.
Spot Cleaning
Remove:
- Dead feeders
- Prey remains
- Excess waste
- Mouldy material
using suitable tools.
Preserve Important Silk
Do not destroy the spider’s established hammock simply to make the enclosure look perfectly clean.
Functional spider habitat is more important than cosmetic tidiness.
Enclosure Replacement
A complete rehousing may eventually be necessary if:
- The enclosure becomes excessively dirty
- Mould cannot be controlled
- The spider outgrows it
- Ventilation is inadequate
Avoid rehousing immediately before a suspected moult.
Household Chemicals
Spiders are highly sensitive to insecticides.
Keep the enclosure away from:
- Fly spray
- Ant killer
- Flea treatments
- Garden pesticides
- Cockroach treatments
Aerosols
Avoid spraying around the enclosure:
- Perfume
- Air freshener
- Cleaning spray
- Deodorising aerosols
Pesticide-Treated Plants
Never add plants or branches that may have been treated with insecticides.
Systemic pesticides can remain within plant tissue even after the surface has been washed.
Health
Potential husbandry-related problems include:
- Dehydration
- Overheating
- Poor ventilation
- Failed moults
- Falls
- Pesticide exposure
- Inappropriate prey
Difficulty Climbing
Older spiders may gradually become less capable of gripping smooth surfaces.
Provide:
- Cork
- Mesh
- Branches
- Textured decorations
so the spider does not depend entirely upon smooth enclosure walls.
Falls
A severely overfed spider with a very enlarged abdomen can be more vulnerable to injury from a fall.
Maintain sensible body condition and provide plenty of climbing structure.
Missing Legs
Juvenile spiders may sometimes regenerate some limb damage through later moults.
Adults cannot simply replace a lost limb through another normal growth moult once mature.
Common Husbandry Mistakes
Common mistakes include:
- Using an enclosure with poor ventilation
- Providing no structure near the top
- Repeatedly destroying the spider’s hammock
- Keeping the enclosure permanently wet
- Allowing prolonged dehydration
- Placing the enclosure in direct sunlight
- Overfeeding
- Leaving dangerous prey with a moulting spider
- Feeding immediately after a moult
- Using pesticide-treated plants
- Feeding wild-caught insects
- Housing multiple adults together
- Handling outdoors
- Breeding without preparing for large numbers of spiderlings
Are Bold Jumping Spiders Suitable for Beginners?
Yes.
A captive-bred Phidippus audax can make an excellent first pet spider for a prepared keeper.
Their advantages include:
- Small enclosure requirements
- Daytime activity
- Excellent vision
- Fascinating hunting behaviour
- Relatively straightforward feeding
- No requirement for deep substrate
They are best considered:
beginner to intermediate.
A Home-Kept Spider
Unlike some spiders encountered primarily as specialist or medically significant exotics, P. audax fits particularly well within a care library aimed at:
invertebrates people may realistically maintain at home.
Members of Phidippus are popular in the pet hobby, in part because of their relatively large size for jumping spiders and highly visual, inquisitive behaviour.
Display Value
Few small spiders provide as much visible behaviour.
A Bold Jumper may be observed:
- Watching movement outside the enclosure
- Exploring branches
- Cleaning its legs and pedipalps
- Constructing silk retreats
- Stalking prey
- Performing spectacular jumps
Educational Value
P. audax provides excellent opportunities to observe:
- Spider vision
- Active hunting
- Silk safety-line use
- Moulting
- Courtship
- Sexual dimorphism
- Egg guarding
- Spiderling development
Bold Jumper Versus Regal Jumper
Phidippus audax and Phidippus regius are different species.
Both are popular jumping spiders, but they should not simply be labelled interchangeably.
Correct scientific identification remains important.
Responsible Sourcing
For pet keeping, captive-bred spiders should be preferred whenever available.
Ask the breeder or seller:
- Is it definitely Phidippus audax?
- Is it captive bred?
- What instar or developmental stage is it?
- What prey is it currently eating?
- When did it last moult?
- Has its sex been confirmed?
Wild-Caught Animals
Wild P. audax are common across much of their range, but this does not automatically mean collection is appropriate.
Wild animals may:
- Already be mature
- Be gravid
- Carry parasites
- Behave differently from captive-bred stock
- Be subject to local collection restrictions
Captive-bred animals are preferable for a home pet.
Legal Considerations
Regulations concerning keeping and transporting spiders vary between jurisdictions.
Always verify current rules relating to:
- Collection
- Import
- Export
- Possession
- Sale
- Transport
before obtaining animals.
Never Release Captive Stock
Never release captive-bred:
- Adults
- Juveniles
- Spiderlings
- Egg sacs
into the environment.
This is particularly important outside the species’ natural range.
Responsible Ownership
Before obtaining Phidippus audax, ensure you can provide:
- A secure vertical enclosure
- Fine cross ventilation
- Upper-level climbing structure
- Appropriate temperatures
- Regular hydration
- Captive-bred feeder insects
- Individual housing
- Appropriate care during moulting
If breeding is planned, also ensure you have the resources to manage:
potentially dozens or hundreds of spiderlings.
Summary
The Bold Jumping Spider (Phidippus audax) is an attractive, highly visual and active jumping spider that can make an excellent home-kept invertebrate.
Adults are typically black with contrasting pale markings and striking iridescent green chelicerae. Females generally reach approximately 8–15 mm, while males are usually around 6–13 mm.
Unlike web-dependent hunting spiders, P. audax actively watches, stalks and leaps onto prey during daylight.
Captive housing should be vertically orientated, well ventilated and furnished heavily in the upper portion of the enclosure.
An adult enclosure around 15 × 15 × 20 cm provides a useful starting point.
Normal household temperatures around 20–27°C are suitable in many homes, while excessive heat and direct sunlight should be avoided.
Regular small drinking droplets should be provided without keeping the enclosure permanently wet.
Suitable foods include captive-bred flies, crickets, cockroach nymphs and other appropriately sized feeder insects.
Jumping spiders construct silk hammocks for sleeping, moulting and reproduction. These structures should not be unnecessarily destroyed.
During pre-moult, the spider may refuse food and seal itself inside its hammock. This is normal and the spider should be left undisturbed.
Adults should be housed individually.
Routine handling is unnecessary, although some individuals may voluntarily walk onto a keeper’s hand. Any interaction should take place close to a safe surface and never outdoors.
Females guard their egg sacs and can produce substantial numbers of spiderlings, so breeding should only be undertaken when suitable rearing space and tiny feeder cultures are already available.
With secure housing, excellent ventilation, appropriate feeding and careful hydration, Phidippus audax is a fascinating and comparatively accessible species for the home invertebrate keeper.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
This care sheet provides general husbandry guidance and does not replace current species-specific research or applicable wildlife and import legislation.
Use a secure, vertically orientated enclosure with excellent cross ventilation and abundant structure near the top.
Avoid enclosure designs that repeatedly destroy the spider’s upper silk hammock whenever routine maintenance is performed.
Provide regular access to small drinking droplets, but do not keep the enclosure permanently saturated.
Never place a small transparent enclosure in direct sunlight.
Feed appropriately sized captive-bred insects and remove potentially dangerous prey when moulting is suspected.
Do not disturb a spider that has sealed itself inside its silk hammock.
Allow a freshly moulted spider to harden completely before feeding.
House individuals separately.
Handling is optional and unnecessary. Never squeeze or restrain a jumping spider, and never handle one outdoors.
Prefer captive-bred animals to wild-collected specimens.
Breeding can produce large numbers of offspring. Do not breed unless you are prepared to house, feed and responsibly distribute the resulting spiderlings.
Never release captive adults, juveniles, spiderlings or egg sacs into the environment.
Always verify current regulations concerning collection, possession, breeding, sale, transport, import and export in your jurisdiction.
Information correct at the date of publication.
reptilecommunity.com | Revised: August 2026