Crested Gecko (Correlophus ciliatus) Care Sheet
Quick Facts
Common Names: Crested Gecko / Eyelash Gecko
Scientific Name: Correlophus ciliatus
Family: Diplodactylidae
Native Range: Southern New Caledonia
Adult Size: Approximately 18–25 cm (7–10 in) including the tail
Adult Weight: Commonly around 35–60+ g
Lifespan: Commonly 15–20+ years with appropriate care
Activity: Primarily crepuscular/nocturnal
Lifestyle: Arboreal
Diet: Omnivorous
Reproduction: Oviparous (egg-laying)
Housing: Individual housing recommended
Handling: Generally tolerant when properly acclimated, but unnecessary handling should be limited
Experience Level: Beginner to intermediate
Introduction
The Crested Gecko (Correlophus ciliatus) is one of the most popular reptiles maintained in captivity.
The species was believed extinct for decades before being rediscovered in New Caledonia in 1994.
Since then, Crested Geckos have become established extremely successfully in captivity.
They are popular because they:
- Remain relatively small
- Require moderate temperatures
- Are generally manageable
- Can eat nutritionally complete prepared diets
- Display an enormous range of captive-bred colours and patterns
However, their reputation as an “easy” reptile should not result in minimal husbandry.
Crested Geckos still require:
- Appropriate enclosure size
- Extensive climbing structure
- Environmental cover
- Temperature gradients
- Humidity and drying cycles
- Fresh water
- Appropriate lighting
- Correct nutrition
- Regular health monitoring
Natural Range
Crested Geckos are native to:
Southern New Caledonia
in the southwest Pacific.
Their natural distribution is relatively restricted.
Natural Habitat
Crested Geckos inhabit humid forest and associated vegetation.
They spend much of their time:
- Above ground
- Among branches
- Within foliage
- On tree trunks
- In sheltered vegetation
Although their natural environment can be humid, this does not mean that captive enclosures should remain permanently wet.
Natural habitats experience substantial variation in:
- Temperature
- Humidity
- Rainfall
- Air movement
- Light
Captive husbandry should similarly provide environmental gradients and cycles.
Size
Adult Crested Geckos commonly reach approximately:
18–25 cm (7–10 inches)
including the tail.
Adult weight commonly falls around:
35–60 g
although healthy size varies considerably according to:
- Sex
- Genetics
- Body structure
- Tail status
Weight alone should therefore not be used to determine whether an animal is healthy.
Lifespan
Crested Geckos are long-lived reptiles.
With appropriate husbandry, lifespans of:
15–20+ years
are realistic.
This should be considered before acquisition.
Behaviour
Crested Geckos are primarily active:
- Around dusk
- Overnight
- Around dawn
During daylight hours they commonly rest:
- Inside foliage
- Behind cork
- Within elevated hides
- On branches
- Against sheltered enclosure surfaces
They are excellent climbers and capable jumpers.
Housing Individually
The safest default is:
One Crested Gecko per enclosure.
Crested Geckos do not require companionship.
Adult males should never be housed together.
Male/male housing can result in:
- Territorial aggression
- Bites
- Tail loss
- Severe injury
Female Cohabitation
Females are sometimes maintained together.
However, female/female housing is not automatically harmless.
Potential problems include:
- Competition for food
- Competition for resting sites
- Bullying
- Chronic stress
- Unequal growth
- Injury
Individual housing allows much better monitoring of:
- Feeding
- Weight
- Faeces
- Egg production
- General health
For routine pet husbandry, individual housing is recommended.
Male/Female Cohabitation
Male and female Crested Geckos should not normally be permanently housed together.
Continuous access can result in:
- Repeated mating
- Chronic reproductive pressure
- Female weight loss
- Excessive egg production
- Injury
Breeding animals should be managed deliberately rather than permanently paired for convenience.
Enclosure Orientation
Crested Geckos are arboreal.
Their enclosure should therefore emphasise:
Vertical space and three-dimensional movement.
However, height alone is not enough.
The animal should also have enough:
- Width
- Depth
- Branching
- Cover
to move naturally.
Adult Enclosure Size
For one adult, approximately:
45 × 45 × 90 cm
provides a good practical minimum target.
Larger enclosures are encouraged.
A larger enclosure provides greater opportunity for:
- Climbing
- Jumping
- Thermoregulation
- UV regulation
- Exploration
- Environmental enrichment
Juvenile Housing
Juveniles can be maintained in smaller enclosures where appropriate.
However, they should still receive:
- Climbing opportunities
- Dense cover
- Temperature gradients
- Appropriate lighting
- Food and water
Do not keep juveniles in tiny containers simply because they are small.
Enclosure Type
Suitable enclosures can include:
- Glass terrariums
- PVC vivariums
- Hybrid enclosures
- Appropriately designed mesh enclosures
There is no requirement for the enclosure to be glass simply because Crested Geckos require humidity.
The appropriate enclosure type depends upon:
- Room humidity
- Ventilation
- Temperature
- Misting
- Climate
The objective is to create the correct environment inside the enclosure.
Mesh Enclosures
Mesh enclosures are sometimes described as unsuitable for Crested Geckos.
This is too absolute.
In a very dry environment, an all-mesh enclosure may make humidity difficult to maintain.
In a naturally humid room, however, mesh can provide excellent ventilation.
Choose the enclosure according to the conditions you actually need to create.
Ventilation
Good ventilation is essential.
The enclosure should not remain:
- Stagnant
- Continuously wet
- Covered in condensation
Humidity must be balanced with air movement.
Climbing Structure
Provide an extensive network of:
- Branches
- Cork
- Vines
- Bamboo
- Plant stems
Include:
- Horizontal routes
- Diagonal routes
- Vertical routes
The gecko should be able to move through much of the enclosure without relying exclusively on the glass walls.
Horizontal Resting Areas
Horizontal or gently angled resting surfaces are particularly important.
Provide:
- Horizontal branches
- Cork ledges
- Broad vines
- Elevated platforms
This gives the gecko opportunities to rest naturally rather than spending excessive periods hanging vertically.
Foliage & Cover
Dense foliage is important.
A well-furnished enclosure should allow the gecko to:
Completely disappear from view.
Suitable cover can include:
- Live plants
- Artificial plants
- Cork tubes
- Hollow branches
- Elevated hides
Plants
Suitable live plants can include:
- Pothos
- Schefflera
- Bromeliads
- Appropriate Ficus species
- Other reptile-safe tropical plants
Plants must be free from:
- Pesticides
- Systemic insecticides
- Fertiliser residues
- Leaf-shine products
Substrate
Suitable substrates include:
- Organic topsoil
- Coco fibre
- Appropriate tropical soil mixtures
- ABG-style mixes
- Bioactive substrates
The substrate should retain some moisture while still allowing drainage and airflow.
Quarantine Substrate
During quarantine, simple substrate such as:
Paper towel
can be useful.
This allows easier monitoring of:
- Faeces
- Urates
- Feeding
- Parasites
- General health
Drainage
Planted and heavily misted enclosures benefit from appropriate drainage.
Standing water beneath substrate can create:
- Anaerobic conditions
- Bacterial growth
- Foul odours
- Root problems
Bioactive does not mean permanently saturated.
Temperature
Crested Geckos prefer relatively moderate temperatures.
A useful daytime range is approximately:
22–26°C
with different temperatures available throughout the enclosure.
A slightly warmer upper area can approach:
26–27°C.
Night Temperature
Night temperatures can generally fall to approximately:
18–22°C.
A modest nighttime temperature reduction is appropriate.
Overheating
Crested Geckos are particularly sensitive to excessive heat.
Temperatures approaching:
28–29°C and above
for prolonged periods can cause serious heat stress.
High temperatures are often more dangerous to this species than slightly cool conditions.
During hot weather, cooling the enclosure may become more important than heating it.
Veterinary guidance likewise warns that temperatures above approximately 28–29°C can become dangerous.
Signs of Heat Stress
Possible signs include:
- Lethargy
- Restlessness
- Open-mouth breathing
- Remaining unusually low in the enclosure
- Weakness
- Loss of coordination
An overheating animal should be moved to an appropriately cooler environment gradually.
Severe heat stress requires veterinary attention.
Heating
Many homes do not require additional heating for much of the year.
If temperatures become too cool, use a:
- Low-powered overhead heat source
- Appropriate radiant heat source
controlled by a thermostat.
Avoid creating a large intensely hot basking area.
Heat Mats
Heat mats are generally unnecessary as a primary heat source for an arboreal Crested Gecko.
If supplementary heat is required, controlled overhead heating creates a more natural gradient.
Heating Safety
Any heat source must be inaccessible to the gecko.
Crested Geckos can climb and jump extremely well.
Protect the animal from:
- Hot bulbs
- Ceramic heaters
- Heating elements
Measuring Temperature
Use reliable digital thermometers.
Measure:
- Upper enclosure
- Mid enclosure
- Lower enclosure
- Nighttime temperature
Do not rely upon one thermometer placed in the centre.
Lighting
Although Crested Geckos are primarily active in low-light periods, they still experience a normal day/night cycle.
Provide approximately:
10–12 hours of daylight
with seasonal variation where desired.
All visible lights should be switched off at night.
UVB
Crested Geckos have historically been maintained without UVB when provided with adequate dietary vitamin D3.
However, appropriately provided low-level UVB is beneficial and allows natural behavioural regulation of exposure.
A low-output linear UVB lamp is recommended where practical.
UV Index
A useful target in the upper exposed areas is approximately:
UVI 0.5–1.0
with access to:
- Lower UV levels
- Dense shade
- Areas approaching UVI 0
Current husbandry guidance commonly treats Crested Geckos as low-exposure Ferguson Zone 1 reptiles.
UV Gradient
Do not illuminate the entire enclosure with identical UV exposure.
Provide:
Low UV exposure → dappled shade → dense foliage → complete retreat
The gecko should control its own exposure.
Choosing a UVB Lamp
Do not choose UVB solely because the package says:
- 2%
- 5%
- 6%
- 7%
Actual UV exposure depends upon:
- Lamp model
- Reflector
- Mesh
- Distance
- Lamp age
Where possible, measure exposure using an appropriate UV Index meter.
Visible Lighting
A full-spectrum LED can be useful for:
- Establishing a clear day/night cycle
- Illuminating the enclosure
- Supporting live plants
Provide plenty of shaded resting areas.
Humidity
Crested Gecko husbandry should be based around:
Humidity cycles rather than constant high humidity.
A useful general daytime range is approximately:
50–60%
with humidity rising substantially after evening misting, commonly reaching:
70–80% or temporarily higher.
Veterinary guidance similarly recommends cycling humidity rather than maintaining permanently saturated conditions.
Drying Cycle
The enclosure should partially dry between misting events.
This is important.
Constantly wet conditions can contribute to:
- Bacterial growth
- Fungal growth
- Poor skin health
- Unhealthy substrate
- Stagnant air
The deeper substrate can retain moisture while exposed surfaces partially dry.
Misting
Misting can provide:
- Drinking droplets
- Temporary humidity increases
- Plant hydration
Evening misting works well because it coincides with the beginning of the gecko’s active period.
Frequency depends upon:
- Ventilation
- Room humidity
- Temperature
- Planting
- Substrate
Do not mist according to a rigid schedule without checking actual conditions.
Water Bowl
Fresh water should always be available.
Provide a:
- Clean
- Shallow
- Stable
water dish.
Crested Geckos can and do drink from bowls, even if the keeper does not regularly observe it.
Do not remove the water bowl simply because droplets are provided through misting.
Water Quality
Use clean drinking-quality water appropriate for reptiles.
Water dishes should be changed:
Daily or whenever contaminated.
Diet
Crested Geckos are omnivorous.
Their natural diet includes various:
- Fruits
- Nectar-like plant material
- Invertebrates
Modern captive husbandry is greatly simplified by nutritionally complete commercial Crested Gecko diets.
Complete Crested Gecko Diet
A reputable complete Crested Gecko diet (CGD) should form the foundation of captive nutrition.
Complete diets are formulated to provide appropriate:
- Protein
- Calcium
- Phosphorus
- Vitamins
- Minerals
- Carbohydrates
- Fats
when prepared according to manufacturer instructions.
Veterinary guidance recommends nutritionally complete CGD as the primary captive diet.
Preparing CGD
Mix the powder with water according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Consistency varies between products.
A smooth:
Ketchup-to-pudding-like consistency
is common.
Do not assume all brands require exactly the same powder-to-water ratio.
Feeding Location
Place prepared diet in an elevated feeding ledge where practical.
This allows the gecko to feed naturally without repeatedly travelling to the enclosure floor.
Feeding Adults
Healthy adults can generally be offered fresh complete CGD approximately:
Every other day / 3–4 times per week.
Adjust according to:
- Body condition
- Product instructions
- Activity
- Reproductive status
Remove old food before it spoils.
Feeding Juveniles
Growing juveniles can be offered fresh CGD:
Daily or near-daily
depending upon growth and appetite.
Small amounts are sufficient.
It can be difficult to see evidence that a tiny juvenile has eaten because the lick marks may be extremely small.
Monitor:
- Weight
- Growth
- Faeces
rather than judging solely by how much food appears missing.
Insects
Live insects can provide:
- Additional protein
- Hunting opportunities
- Environmental enrichment
Suitable feeders include:
- Crickets
- Dubia roaches
- Other appropriate roaches
- Black soldier fly larvae
- Small locusts
- Silkworms
Insects should be appropriately sized.
Are Insects Essential?
A high-quality commercial diet labelled as nutritionally complete can provide complete nutrition when used correctly.
Live insects are therefore not necessarily required for survival when an appropriate complete diet is used.
However, insects can be valuable for:
- Dietary variety
- Behavioural enrichment
- Growth
and many Crested Geckos readily hunt them.
Gut Loading
Feeder insects should be properly gut-loaded before use.
Suitable gut-loading foods include:
- Quality commercial gut-loading diets
- Leafy greens
- Appropriate vegetables
Poorly nourished feeders provide poor nutrition.
Supplementing Insects
Insects offered alongside a complete diet may require calcium supplementation.
The exact supplementation schedule depends upon:
- CGD formulation
- UVB exposure
- Animal age
- Reproductive status
- Feeder nutrition
- Supplement formulation
Do not automatically combine multiple calcium/D3/vitamin products without considering what the complete diet already contains.
Fruit
Fresh fruit should not replace a complete CGD.
Fruit alone does not provide an appropriate nutritional balance.
Small amounts of suitable fruit may occasionally be used as enrichment, but should not become the staple diet.
Baby Food
Human baby food should not be used as the primary diet.
It is not formulated to meet the nutritional requirements of Crested Geckos.
Feeding Enrichment
Live prey can encourage:
- Hunting
- Jumping
- Climbing
- Visual tracking
Feeding locations can occasionally be varied.
Do not leave large numbers of uneaten insects inside the enclosure.
Body Condition
Monitor:
- Weight
- Tail base
- Limbs
- Abdomen
- Muscle tone
Healthy Crested Geckos should appear well muscled without becoming excessively heavy.
Obesity
Crested Geckos can become overweight.
Risk factors include:
- Excessive feeding
- High-calorie treats
- Limited enclosure space
- Insufficient activity
Do not judge feeding requirements solely by appetite.
Handling
Many Crested Geckos tolerate gentle handling.
However:
Handling is not a biological requirement.
Allow a newly acquired animal time to settle before regular interaction.
Safe Handling
Encourage the gecko to walk voluntarily from:
Hand to hand.
Keep hands close together so the animal cannot fall far if it jumps.
Handling sessions should initially be:
- Short
- Calm
- Close to a safe surface
Jumping
Crested Geckos can jump suddenly and surprisingly far.
Never assume a calm gecko will remain stationary.
Avoid handling:
- High above the floor
- Near open doors
- Near inaccessible furniture
- Outdoors
Tail Autotomy
Crested Geckos can voluntarily detach their tails.
This is known as:
Autotomy.
Tail loss may occur following:
- Fright
- Restraint
- Injury
- Fighting
- Severe stress
Tail Regrowth
Unlike many gecko species:
A Crested Gecko’s tail does not regenerate after being dropped.
A tailless Crested Gecko is sometimes informally called a:
“Frogbutt.”
Tail loss does not normally prevent the animal from living a healthy life.
Preventing Tail Loss
Never:
- Grab the tail
- Restrain the animal by the tail
- Allow incompatible animals to fight
Minimise unnecessary stress.
Floppy Tail Syndrome
Some Crested Geckos develop abnormal tail positioning sometimes referred to as:
Floppy Tail Syndrome (FTS).
The tail may fall sideways or over the body when the gecko rests vertically.
Potential contributing factors can include:
- Excessive vertical sleeping
- Poor horizontal support
- Body structure
- Husbandry factors
Provide abundant horizontal and angled resting opportunities.
Shedding
Crested Geckos shed their skin periodically.
Healthy geckos commonly:
Eat the shed skin.
You may therefore rarely find a complete shed.
Retained Shed
Check particularly around:
- Toes
- Tail
- Limbs
Persistent retained shed can restrict circulation.
Appropriate humidity cycles and hydration support normal shedding.
Do not forcibly pull tightly attached skin from delicate toes.
Quarantine
New Crested Geckos should undergo appropriate quarantine before entering an established collection.
During quarantine:
- House separately
- Use dedicated equipment where practical
- Monitor weight
- Observe faeces
- Monitor feeding
- Check shedding
- Watch for external parasites
- Observe general behaviour
Veterinary faecal testing may be appropriate where parasite exposure is suspected.
Metabolic Bone Disease
Metabolic bone disease can occur when calcium/vitamin D physiology is inadequate.
Risk factors include:
- Poor diet
- Inadequate calcium
- Vitamin D3 problems
- Inappropriate supplementation
- Lack of appropriate UVB where dietary D3 is insufficient
Possible signs include:
- Soft jaw
- Tremors
- Weakness
- Limb deformity
- Spinal deformity
- Poor climbing
A properly formulated complete diet dramatically simplifies nutritional management, but correct preparation remains essential.
Dehydration
Possible signs include:
- Sunken eyes
- Wrinkled skin
- Poor shedding
- Reduced activity
- Abnormal urates
Review:
- Water availability
- Misting
- Humidity
- Temperature
Persistent dehydration requires veterinary assessment.
Respiratory Disease
Possible signs include:
- Abnormal breathing
- Open-mouth breathing
- Mucus
- Clicking/wheezing
- Lethargy
Review:
- Temperature
- Humidity
- Ventilation
and seek veterinary assessment where respiratory disease is suspected.
Mouth Problems
Signs of oral disease can include:
- Swelling
- Discharge
- Redness
- Difficulty eating
- Abnormal tissue
Veterinary assessment is required.
Parasites
Internal parasites may cause:
- Weight loss
- Poor growth
- Abnormal faeces
- Reduced appetite
External mites are less commonly encountered than in some reptiles but remain possible.
Veterinary testing can help identify parasite problems.
Sexing
Sex becomes easier to determine as Crested Geckos mature.
Males develop:
- Prominent hemipenal bulges at the tail base
- Preanal pores
Females lack the pronounced male hemipenal bulges.
Very young hatchlings can be difficult to sex reliably without magnification and experience.
Sexual Maturity
Crested Geckos may become sexually mature relatively young.
However:
Sexual maturity does not automatically mean an animal should be bred.
Females should be:
- Fully grown
- Healthy
- In excellent body condition
- Nutritionally prepared
before breeding.
Female Reproduction
Female Crested Geckos can lay eggs even without a male.
These eggs will generally be infertile unless the female has previously mated and retained viable sperm.
Owners of single females should therefore understand:
- Egg production
- Calcium requirements
- Laying behaviour
Sperm Storage
Female Crested Geckos can store sperm after mating.
One mating can potentially produce:
Multiple fertile clutches.
A female separated from a male may therefore continue producing fertile eggs for some time.
Female Calcium Demand
Egg production creates substantial calcium demand.
Repeated laying without adequate nutrition can contribute to:
- Calcium depletion
- Weakness
- Metabolic bone disease
- Reproductive complications
Females should be carefully monitored throughout the breeding season.
Breeding
Only healthy mature animals should be deliberately bred.
Before pairing, assess:
- Age
- Size
- Body condition
- Genetics
- Health
- Calcium status
Animals with significant structural or health problems should not be deliberately reproduced.
Pairing
Introduce animals under controlled conditions.
Do not assume breeding behaviour will always be gentle.
Monitor for:
- Excessive biting
- Injury
- Persistent aggression
- Severe stress
Separate animals when necessary.
Breeding Bites
Males may bite females around the:
- Crest
- Neck
- Head
during mating.
Minor superficial marks can occur, but significant wounds require separation and appropriate treatment.
Egg Laying
Females typically lay:
Two eggs per clutch.
Clutches may be produced approximately every:
4–6 weeks
during active reproductive periods.
Captive reproductive records describe repeated two-egg clutches and sperm storage across a breeding cycle.
Laying Substrate
Females require access to suitable moist substrate for egg deposition.
The substrate should be:
- Deep enough for digging
- Moist enough to hold shape
- Not saturated
A dedicated laying area can be provided where necessary.
Signs of Egg Production
A gravid female may:
- Gain weight
- Become broader through the abdomen
- Spend more time near the enclosure floor
- Dig
- Reduce food intake before laying
Regular weighing is useful for breeding females.
Dystocia / Egg Retention
Warning signs include:
- Persistent digging without laying
- Straining
- Weakness
- Lethargy
- Remaining on the enclosure floor
- Severe loss of condition
Suspected dystocia requires prompt veterinary assessment.
Post-Laying Care
After laying:
- Provide fresh water
- Offer complete nutritious food
- Monitor calcium intake
- Monitor body weight
- Allow adequate recovery
Females producing repeated clutches require particularly close monitoring.
Egg Incubation
Eggs can be incubated in an appropriate moist incubation medium such as:
- Vermiculite
- Perlite
- Commercial reptile incubation media
The medium should be:
Moist but not waterlogged.
Eggs should not sit directly in free water.
Incubation Temperature
A useful incubation range is approximately:
22–25°C.
Lower temperatures generally produce longer incubation periods.
Avoid excessive heat.
Incubation Duration
Crested Gecko eggs commonly hatch after approximately:
60–120+ days
depending heavily upon incubation temperature.
Published husbandry sources describe approximately 60–150 days, demonstrating how strongly development time can vary.
Egg Handling
Avoid rotating eggs unnecessarily after they have been laid.
If moving an egg, maintain its original orientation where practical.
Do not repeatedly handle developing eggs.
Hatchlings
Hatchlings are miniature versions of the adults but require particular attention to:
- Hydration
- Food access
- Temperature
- Security
They should be housed securely because they can escape through surprisingly small gaps.
Hatchling Enclosures
Hatchling accommodation should provide:
- Fine branches
- Foliage
- Hides
- Climbing structure
- Appropriate humidity cycles
- Clean water
The enclosure should be manageable enough that feeding and faeces can be monitored.
Hatchling Feeding
Newly hatched Crested Geckos may not feed immediately.
They often rely briefly upon remaining yolk reserves and may begin feeding after their first shed.
Offer a high-quality complete CGD in:
Very small shallow portions.
Hatchling Insects
Appropriately sized insects can be introduced as the hatchling establishes.
Suitable prey includes:
- Tiny crickets
- Small roach nymphs
- Other appropriately sized feeders
Prey should not overwhelm the hatchling.
Hatchling Hydration
Young Crested Geckos dehydrate more quickly than adults.
Provide:
- Fresh water
- Appropriate misting
- Humidity peaks
- Drying periods
Do not compensate by keeping the enclosure permanently saturated.
Cleaning
Remove:
- Faeces
- Spoiled food
- Dead insects
- Contaminated substrate
promptly.
Prepared CGD should not be left indefinitely.
Follow the manufacturer’s guidance and discard spoiled food.
Bioactive Enclosures
Crested Geckos can thrive in properly designed bioactive enclosures.
These may contain:
- Live plants
- Deep substrate
- Leaf litter
- Springtails
- Suitable isopods
However:
Bioactive does not mean maintenance-free.
Continue monitoring:
- Waste
- Drainage
- Substrate condition
- Plant health
- Water quality
- Gecko health
Legal & Responsible Ownership
Requirements for keeping, breeding, transporting and trading reptiles vary between jurisdictions.
Keepers should verify current requirements relating to:
- Animal welfare
- Transport
- Import/export
- Wildlife trade
- Commercial selling
Never release a captive Crested Gecko into the wild.
Responsible Acquisition
Where possible, obtain:
Healthy captive-bred animals from traceable sources.
Before acquiring a Crested Gecko, the enclosure should already be:
- Furnished
- Temperature checked
- Lighting tested
- Ready for feeding
- Ready for hydration
Summary
Crested Geckos are adaptable and comparatively straightforward reptiles when their basic biological requirements are understood.
Successful husbandry centres around:
- Individual housing
- A tall, spacious enclosure
- Extensive climbing structure
- Horizontal resting opportunities
- Dense visual cover
- Moderate temperatures
- Protection from overheating
- Low-level UVB
- A clear day/night cycle
- Humidity peaks followed by drying periods
- Constant access to fresh water
- A nutritionally complete Crested Gecko diet
- Appropriate feeder insects where used
- Careful supplementation
- Regular body-condition monitoring
- Appropriate reproductive management
- Strong quarantine and health observation
Several principles are particularly important:
Crested Geckos do not require companions.
High humidity does not mean keeping the enclosure permanently wet.
Fresh drinking water should always be available.
A complete Crested Gecko diet should form the nutritional foundation.
Crested Geckos are vulnerable to overheating.
Dropped tails do not grow back.
Females can produce eggs without currently being housed with a male.
With appropriate temperatures, environmental complexity, balanced nutrition and natural humidity cycles, Correlophus ciliatus can remain healthy and active for many years in captivity.
Important: This care sheet provides general husbandry guidance. Requirements may vary according to age, sex, health, reproductive status and environmental conditions. Health concerns should be discussed with a suitably qualified reptile-experienced veterinary surgeon.