OCELLATED VELVET GECKO
Oedura monilis
COMPREHENSIVE CARE SHEET
QUICK FACTS
Scientific name: Oedura monilis
Common names: Ocellated Velvet Gecko, Ocellated Gecko, Blotched Gecko
Family: Diplodactylidae
Native range: Eastern Australia, principally Queensland and north-eastern New South Wales
Natural lifestyle: Arboreal and saxicolous (tree- and rock-associated)
Activity: Primarily nocturnal
Adult size: Approximately 6–8 in (15–20 cm) total length; body length is considerably shorter because the tail makes up a substantial proportion of the total length
Lifespan: Approximately 10–15+ years should be expected with good husbandry; potentially longer
Diet: Primarily insectivorous
Minimum enclosure for one adult: Approximately 18 × 18 × 24 in (45 × 45 × 60 cm)
Preferred enclosure: Approximately 24 × 18 × 24 in (60 × 45 × 60 cm) or larger
Warm elevated surface: Approximately 82–88°F (28–31°C)
General daytime range: Approximately 72–80°F (22–27°C)
Cooler retreat: Approximately 68–75°F (20–24°C)
Night: Approximately 64–72°F (18–22°C)
Humidity: Moderate with a natural rise-and-fall cycle rather than constantly high humidity
UVB: Recommended
Suggested accessible UVI: Approximately 1.0–2.0 at suitably exposed upper surfaces, grading down to complete shade
Reproduction: Oviparous; normally two eggs per clutch
Housing: Individual housing is the safest default
Handling: Limited; primarily an observation species
Experience level: Intermediate
SPECIES OVERVIEW
The Ocellated Velvet Gecko (Oedura monilis) is a medium-sized Australian gecko characterised by large eyes, expanded adhesive toe pads, soft-looking skin and an attractive pattern that can vary considerably between individuals and populations.
The genus Oedura contains the Australian velvet geckos. These animals are highly adapted to moving over vertical and irregular surfaces.
Oedura monilis should therefore not be thought of as simply a small nocturnal gecko that needs a tall enclosure.
Its husbandry should be designed around three important characteristics:
• It is nocturnal
• It is an accomplished climber
• It naturally uses trees, bark, rocks and narrow retreats
A good enclosure should consequently provide a large amount of usable vertical and diagonal surface area rather than simply empty height.
TAXONOMY
Scientific name:
Oedura monilis
Family:
Diplodactylidae
The taxonomy of the Oedura monilis complex has undergone revision.
Animals historically identified under O. monilis across a broad part of eastern Australia were found to represent more than one species.
Modern identification should therefore be based on current taxonomy rather than relying solely on older hobby names or photographs.
Where provenance information is available, it should be retained.
NATURAL DISTRIBUTION
Oedura monilis occurs naturally in eastern Australia.
Its recognised distribution includes areas of:
• Queensland
• North-eastern New South Wales
The species occupies a broad geographic area and occurs across more than one habitat type.
NATURAL HABITAT
Ocellated Velvet Geckos are found in habitats ranging from woodland and dry forest to areas containing rocky outcrops and other suitable shelter.
Different populations may make substantial use of:
• Trees
• Tree trunks
• Loose bark
• Fallen timber
• Rock faces
• Rocky outcrops
• Crevices
Some populations are predominantly arboreal, some are strongly associated with rock, while others use both.
This is important when designing captive accommodation.
The enclosure should not consist of one branch surrounded by empty space.
It should provide numerous interconnected surfaces and crevices.
NATURAL ACTIVITY
Oedura monilis is primarily nocturnal.
During daylight hours, individuals typically remain concealed in secure retreats.
These may include:
• Spaces beneath bark
• Tree hollows
• Rock crevices
• Narrow gaps
• Other protected retreats
After dark, animals emerge onto exposed surfaces to forage.
In the wild they may be observed moving over:
• Tree trunks
• Rock surfaces
• Fallen timber
This natural history should strongly influence enclosure design.
TEMPERAMENT
Individual temperament varies.
Some captive-bred animals become relatively tolerant of routine keeper activity, while others remain secretive and quick.
They are generally best considered:
an observation species rather than a handling species.
A gecko that spends much of the daytime hidden is not necessarily stressed or unhealthy.
Daytime concealment is normal behaviour for this species.
ENCLOSURE PHILOSOPHY
The enclosure should provide:
• Height
• Vertical surfaces
• Horizontal surfaces
• Diagonal climbing routes
• Numerous narrow retreats
• Thermal variation
• Humidity variation
• Light and UV gradients
• Secure shaded areas
The aim is to create a three-dimensional habitat in which the gecko can choose where it wants to be.
An enclosure should not force the animal to choose between being:
warm OR hidden
or:
exposed to UVB OR secure.
Suitable conditions should overlap with secure retreats.
MINIMUM ENCLOSURE SIZE
For one adult, approximately:
18 × 18 × 24 in (45 × 45 × 60 cm)
should be regarded as a practical minimum.
This is a minimum rather than an ideal target.
PREFERRED ENCLOSURE SIZE
Where space permits, approximately:
24 × 18 × 24 in (60 × 45 × 60 cm)
or larger is preferable.
Larger enclosures make it easier to create:
• Thermal gradients
• UV gradients
• Multiple retreats
• More climbing routes
• More feeding opportunities
• Greater behavioural choice
USABLE SPACE MATTERS
A tall enclosure is only useful if the gecko can actually use it.
An empty 3 ft enclosure may provide less meaningful habitat than a smaller enclosure containing extensive:
• Cork bark
• Branches
• Ledges
• Rock surfaces
• Plants
• Crevices
Think in terms of:
surface area rather than empty air.
CLIMBING STRUCTURE
Provide a network of climbing surfaces.
Useful furnishings include:
• Cork bark slabs
• Cork tubes
• Natural branches
• Artificial branches
• Secure rockwork
• Ledges
• Textured backgrounds
Branches should include different:
• Diameters
• Angles
• Heights
This allows more natural movement and gives the animal choices.
BARK RETREATS
Large cork slabs are particularly useful.
Position some slightly away from the enclosure wall so the gecko can enter the narrow space behind them.
This creates a retreat similar to:
loose bark or natural crevices.
Provide several of these at different heights and temperatures.
HIDES
Provide multiple secure retreats.
Ideally include:
• Warm hide
• Intermediate hide
• Cool hide
• Humid hide
• Elevated hides
Do not rely on one hide placed on the enclosure floor.
Many individuals will strongly prefer elevated or narrow retreats.
PLANTS & VISUAL COVER
Live or artificial plants can provide:
• Visual security
• Additional climbing structure
• Shaded areas
• Drinking surfaces after misting
Dense planting can be particularly useful around parts of the enclosure while still leaving open hunting surfaces.
ENCLOSURE SECURITY
These geckos are capable climbers and can exploit surprisingly small openings.
Check:
• Door gaps
• Cable ports
• Ventilation openings
• Background edges
• Sliding-door gaps
Juveniles require particular attention because they can escape through very small spaces.
TEMPERATURE & HEATING
Provide a thermal gradient.
Do not attempt to maintain the entire enclosure at one fixed temperature.
A useful daytime arrangement provides an elevated warm surface of approximately:
82–88°F (28–31°C)
with much of the enclosure approximately:
72–80°F (22–27°C)
and cooler retreats around:
68–75°F (20–24°C).
These temperatures should exist simultaneously in different areas.
BASKING & WARMING AREA
Although nocturnal, Oedura monilis should still have access to a localised warm area.
This can be produced using a suitable low-wattage overhead heat source.
Warm:
• Cork
• Branch
• Rock
• Ledge
rather than attempting to heat all enclosure air to the same temperature.
The animal may use warm surfaces before or after the visible lights switch off.
SURFACE TEMPERATURE VERSUS AIR TEMPERATURE
This distinction is important.
A warm cork surface measuring:
86°F (30°C)
does NOT mean the whole enclosure should have an air temperature of 86°F.
Reptiles regulate their body temperature behaviourally.
They need access to:
• Warmer surfaces
• Moderate ambient temperatures
• Cooler retreats
OVERHEAD HEATING
Where supplementary heat is necessary, overhead heating is generally preferable because it creates a more natural gradient.
Depending on the enclosure and room temperature, a suitable setup may use:
• Low-wattage halogen basking lamp
• Other appropriate overhead heat source
Any powerful heating equipment must be installed so the gecko cannot contact it.
THERMOSTAT
Heating equipment should be controlled appropriately.
The thermostat must be suitable for the particular heat source.
Remember:
a thermostat controls equipment.
It does NOT tell you what every part of the enclosure actually measures.
Temperatures still need to be checked independently.
TEMPERATURE MEASUREMENT
Use:
• Digital probe thermometers for ambient temperatures
• Infrared thermometer for surface temperatures
Measure temperatures where the gecko actually spends time.
Do not rely on one analogue dial attached to an enclosure wall.
NIGHT TEMPERATURE
A nighttime temperature reduction is appropriate.
Approximately:
64–72°F (18–22°C)
is suitable for healthy animals under normal circumstances.
If the room naturally remains within an appropriate range, additional night heating is usually unnecessary.
NIGHT HEATING
If supplementary night heat is genuinely required, use a:
thermostatically controlled non-light-emitting heat source.
Do not use permanent:
• Red bulbs
• Blue bulbs
• Purple bulbs
• Bright “moonlight” bulbs
A nocturnal animal still requires darkness.
LIGHTING
A regular day/night cycle is essential.
Being nocturnal does NOT mean the enclosure should remain dim throughout the daytime.
Natural nocturnal reptiles spend their resting period within an environment that has a clear daylight cycle.
Provide bright daytime illumination while ensuring secure shaded retreats remain available.
PHOTOPERIOD
Approximately:
12 hours light / 12 hours dark
provides a useful general starting point.
Modest seasonal variation can be provided if desired.
All visible lighting should switch off at night.
UVB
Low-level UVB is recommended.
Nocturnal reptiles are capable of receiving UV exposure through behaviours such as:
• Partial exposure near retreat entrances
• Early-evening emergence
• Dawn activity
• Cryptic basking
The objective is not to flood the enclosure with strong UVB.
Instead, provide an:
accessible low-level UV gradient.
TARGET UVI
Aim for approximately:
UVI 1.0–2.0
at appropriately exposed usable surfaces.
Other areas should provide:
• Lower UVI
• Heavy shade
• Complete UV-free retreats
The animal should always be able to regulate its own exposure.
UV GRADIENT
Position the UVB lamp over only part of the enclosure.
The enclosure should contain a progression from:
low-level UV exposure
through:
partial shade
to:
complete shade.
Some elevated cork or branches can pass through the UV zone.
Other retreats should remain completely sheltered.
WHAT THIS MEANS IN PRACTICE
For a typical enclosure, use an appropriately selected:
linear T5 UVB system intended to provide gentle UV exposure.
The exact lamp cannot be chosen from percentage alone.
Lamp output must be considered together with:
• Distance
• Reflector
• Mesh
• Branch height
• Cork height
The aim is approximately UVI 1–2 at the gecko’s exposed usable surfaces.
UVB PERCENTAGE
A lamp marked:
2.4%, 6%, 7% or another percentage
does not automatically provide the correct UV exposure.
Two different lamps carrying similar percentages may produce different UVI depending on:
• Lamp design
• Reflector
• Distance
• Fixture
• Mesh
Use percentage as product information, not as the husbandry target.
The target is the UV reaching the animal.
MESH & UVB
Mesh can significantly reduce UVB.
The reduction varies according to:
• Mesh material
• Hole size
• Wire thickness
• Distance from lamp
A UVB lamp placed above mesh may therefore need a different installation distance than the same lamp mounted unobstructed.
UV METER
A suitable UV meter is the best way to determine what the gecko actually receives.
Measure at:
the animal’s highest exposed usable surface.
Do not measure only directly beneath the lamp at the enclosure lid.
VISIBLE-SPECTRUM LIGHTING
A daylight-spectrum LED can be used to create bright daytime illumination.
This helps establish a strong:
day/night rhythm
and benefits live plants where present.
UVB lamps should not be expected to provide all visible illumination for a large enclosure.
HUMIDITY
Oedura monilis should not be maintained at one constant humidity reading.
A naturalistic approach provides:
humidity cycles and microclimates.
A general background around:
40–60%
can be appropriate, with temporary increases following misting.
Exact readings will vary according to:
• Ventilation
• Room humidity
• Substrate
• Planting
• Time of day
EVENING HUMIDITY RISE
Light evening misting can temporarily increase humidity.
This also creates droplets that the gecko may lick from:
• Cork
• Leaves
• Glass
• Branches
Humidity can rise after misting and then gradually fall as the enclosure dries.
This is preferable to keeping everything permanently damp.
HUMID RETREAT
Always provide at least one more humid microclimate.
A humid retreat can contain:
• Slightly damp moss
• Moist soil
• Suitable moisture-retaining substrate
It should feel:
damp and humid
rather than:
saturated and waterlogged.
VENTILATION
Good ventilation remains essential.
High humidity combined with poor ventilation can encourage:
• Mould
• Bacterial growth
• Stagnant conditions
• Respiratory problems
Do not block ventilation simply to make a hygrometer display a higher number.
WATER
Provide a shallow bowl of clean drinking water:
at all times.
Even where an animal regularly drinks misting droplets, permanent fresh water should still be available.
Clean the bowl regularly and immediately whenever contaminated.
SUBSTRATE
Suitable naturalistic substrates can include mixtures based on:
• Organic topsoil
• Washed play sand
• Suitable reptile soil
• Leaf litter
Approximately:
2–4 in (5–10 cm)
is adequate for many conventional enclosures.
Greater depth can be provided in planted or bioactive setups.
SUBSTRATE MOISTURE
The substrate should not remain uniformly wet.
A useful arrangement allows:
• Surface layers to dry
• Deeper substrate to retain some moisture
• Humid retreat to remain damp
This provides a moisture gradient rather than one condition throughout the enclosure.
BIOACTIVE HOUSING
The species can be maintained successfully in a properly designed bioactive enclosure.
Suitable systems may incorporate:
• Live plants
• Leaf litter
• Springtails
• Appropriate isopods
Bioactive does not mean maintenance-free.
The keeper must still:
• Remove obvious waste where necessary
• Maintain water hygiene
• Monitor mould
• Maintain substrate
• Monitor clean-up crew populations
• Check temperatures and humidity
FEEDING
Oedura monilis is primarily an invertebrate predator.
The captive diet should consist mainly of varied:
live invertebrate prey.
SUITABLE FEEDERS
Useful feeders include:
• Crickets
• Appropriately sized locusts
• Roaches
• Black soldier fly larvae
• Silkworms
• Appropriately sized beetle larvae
• Other safe captive-cultured invertebrates
Variety is preferable to relying on one feeder insect indefinitely.
PREY SIZE
Offer prey that can be captured and swallowed comfortably.
Very large prey provides no advantage and may:
• Stress the gecko
• Injure it
• Remain hidden in the enclosure
FEEDING JUVENILES
Growing juveniles have greater nutritional requirements relative to their size.
Offer appropriately sized food:
daily or every other day
depending on:
• Age
• Growth
• Meal size
• Body condition
FEEDING ADULTS
Healthy adults can generally be fed approximately:
2–4 times per week.
Adjust feeding according to:
• Body condition
• Activity
• Season
• Reproductive status
• Size of prey offered
FEEDING TIME
Because the species is nocturnal, food can be offered:
late afternoon or evening.
This allows hunting behaviour to coincide with the animal’s natural activity period.
GUT LOADING
Feeder insects should be properly:
fed and hydrated
before being offered.
This is an important part of reptile nutrition.
A poorly nourished feeder insect is a poor-quality food item.
CALCIUM
Dust suitable feeders regularly with an appropriate:
calcium supplement.
Growing juveniles and reproductive females have particularly important calcium requirements.
MULTIVITAMINS
Use a balanced reptile multivitamin periodically.
Do not assume that more supplementation is automatically better.
Excessive supplementation can also create health problems.
VITAMIN D3
Where effective UVB is available, additional dietary vitamin D3 should normally be used:
conservatively.
Follow the instructions supplied with the specific supplementation system being used.
Avoid routinely combining multiple products containing overlapping vitamins.
BODY CONDITION
Monitor the animal’s body condition.
A healthy gecko should appear:
well muscled and appropriately filled out
without excessive fat deposition.
Regular weighing is useful.
Weight records can identify gradual changes that may otherwise be missed.
HANDLING
Ocellated Velvet Geckos are primarily:
display and observation animals.
They should not be selected principally because someone wants a reptile for frequent handling.
Some individuals tolerate brief interaction better than others.
SAFE HANDLING
When handling is necessary:
• Keep sessions short
• Handle close to a safe surface
• Support the animal
• Allow it to walk between hands
• Avoid squeezing
• Avoid chasing it repeatedly
Repeated forced handling can cause unnecessary stress.
TAIL AUTOTOMY
Never grab or restrain an Oedura by:
the tail.
Like many geckos, it can shed the tail defensively.
This is known as:
autotomy.
A replacement tail can regenerate, but may differ from the original in:
• Shape
• Texture
• Pattern
• Colour
Tail loss should not be considered harmless simply because regeneration is possible.
ENRICHMENT
Good enrichment enables natural behaviour.
Provide opportunities for:
• Climbing
• Hunting
• Hiding
• Exploring
• Choosing different temperatures
• Choosing different humidity levels
• Choosing different light levels
CLIMBING ENRICHMENT
Use multiple interconnected:
• Branches
• Cork slabs
• Ledges
• Rock surfaces
Rather than one isolated branch.
The gecko should be able to travel through much of the enclosure without needing to descend to the floor.
FEEDING ENRICHMENT
Live insects naturally encourage:
• Searching
• Stalking
• Hunting
• Pouncing
Prey can occasionally be introduced into different appropriate areas of the enclosure to encourage exploration.
Do not release excessive numbers of insects that remain uneaten.
SOCIAL BEHAVIOUR
Individual housing is the safest default.
A reptile does not require a cage mate simply because animals of the same species encounter each other in nature.
MALE-MALE HOUSING
Adult males should generally:
not be housed together.
Competition and territorial behaviour can result in:
• Stress
• Fighting
• Injury
MALE-FEMALE HOUSING
Male and female animals may be introduced for breeding by experienced keepers.
Permanent pair housing is not automatically preferable.
Continuous access by a male can expose a female to:
• Repeated courtship
• Repeated mating
• Chronic stress
• Physical injury
• Excessive reproductive demand
SIGNS OF COHABITATION PROBLEMS
Watch for:
• Chasing
• Biting
• Tail damage
• One animal remaining hidden
• Weight loss
• Feeding suppression
• Exclusion from preferred retreats
Separate animals immediately where welfare is compromised.
CLEANING
Spot clean regularly.
Remove:
• Faeces
• Dead insects
• Uneaten prey
• Contaminated substrate
• Mould where necessary
Clean and refill the water bowl regularly.
ROUTINE CARE
Regularly check:
• Temperatures
• Thermostat operation
• UVB equipment
• Lighting
• Humidity
• Water
• Enclosure security
• Branch stability
• Cork stability
• Animal condition
ROUTINE HEALTH MONITORING
Monitor:
• Weight
• Appetite
• Body condition
• Activity
• Shedding
• Faeces
• Hydration
• Breathing
Because the species is nocturnal, occasional observation after lights-out is valuable.
A gecko hidden throughout the daytime may become highly active after dark.
COMMON HEALTH CONCERNS
Potential health concerns include:
• Metabolic bone disease
• Calcium deficiency
• Dehydration
• Retained shed
• Internal parasites
• External parasites
• Respiratory disease
• Burns
• Obesity
• Trauma
• Reproductive complications
METABOLIC BONE DISEASE
Metabolic bone disease can result from disruption of normal calcium metabolism.
Contributing husbandry factors can include:
• Inadequate calcium
• Poor diet
• Inadequate vitamin D3 availability
• Inappropriate UVB provision
Possible signs include:
• Weakness
• Tremors
• Abnormal movement
• Soft jaw
• Limb deformity
• Fractures
Prevention through correct husbandry is far preferable to treatment.
SHEDDING PROBLEMS
Inspect particularly:
• Toes
• Feet
• Tail tip
Retained shed around digits can restrict circulation.
Repeated shedding difficulty should prompt a review of:
• Hydration
• Humidity
• Nutrition
• General health
DEHYDRATION
Possible signs include:
• Poor shedding
• Reduced activity
• Loss of body condition
• Sunken appearance
Check:
• Water availability
• Misting routine
• Humid retreat
• Temperatures
• Overall health
RESPIRATORY DISEASE
Risk may increase where animals experience combinations of:
• Incorrect temperatures
• Constantly wet conditions
• Poor ventilation
• Chronic stress
Signs requiring veterinary assessment include:
• Wheezing
• Abnormal breathing
• Open-mouth breathing
• Nasal discharge
• Bubbles or mucus
BURNS
Heating equipment must be installed so the gecko cannot contact:
• Hot bulbs
• Heating elements
• Dangerously hot fittings
Use suitable guards where required.
REPRODUCTIVE HEALTH
Females producing eggs have increased requirements for:
• Calcium
• Nutrition
• Hydration
Repeated breeding without adequate recovery can compromise female condition.
Any female showing:
• Persistent straining
• Severe lethargy
• Abnormal swelling
• Sudden deterioration
requires prompt veterinary assessment.
QUARANTINE
All new reptiles should undergo quarantine before entering an established collection.
A minimum period of approximately:
60–90 days
is sensible.
Longer quarantine may be appropriate where:
• Origin is uncertain
• Health history is unknown
• Parasites are suspected
• The animal has recently been imported
QUARANTINE HOUSING
Quarantine housing should allow:
• Easy observation
• Easy cleaning
• Accurate monitoring
but must still provide correct:
• Temperature
• UVB
• Security
• Hides
• Climbing surfaces
• Hydration
QUARANTINE HYGIENE
Where practical:
• Use separate equipment
• Attend to established animals first
• Attend to quarantined animals afterwards
• Wash hands between enclosures
• Avoid sharing furnishings or feeding equipment without disinfection
FAECAL TESTING
Veterinary faecal examination may be appropriate where:
• History is uncertain
• Animal is recently imported
• Weight loss occurs
• Faeces remain abnormal
• Parasites are suspected
Do not automatically medicate reptiles without an appropriate reason or veterinary guidance.
BREEDING
Oedura monilis is:
oviparous.
Females lay eggs.
Published observations support a characteristic clutch size of:
two eggs.
Females can potentially produce more than one clutch during a reproductive season.
BREEDING AGE
Do not breed animals simply because they have reached a particular calendar age.
Animals should first be:
• Sexually mature
• Fully established
• Healthy
• Appropriately sized
• In strong body condition
Female condition is especially important.
BREEDING CONDITION
Before breeding, provide consistently correct:
• Heating
• UVB
• Calcium
• Nutrition
• Hydration
• Secure retreats
Females should enter the reproductive period with adequate body reserves without being obese.
COURTSHIP & MATING
Breeding behaviour may include:
• Increased male activity
• Following
• Courtship
• Physical restraint during mating
Animals should be monitored.
Persistent harassment or injury is a reason to separate them.
GRAVID FEMALES
Developing eggs may become visible through the abdominal region in heavily gravid females.
Avoid unnecessary handling.
Ensure continuous access to:
• Water
• Calcium
• Suitable food
• Correct temperatures
• Secure laying site
LAYING SITE
Provide a secure laying container or retreat containing a suitable:
slightly moist substrate.
A depth of several inches is useful so the female can investigate and dig.
Suitable media can include appropriately prepared:
• Soil
• Coco fibre
• Other moisture-retentive laying substrate
The laying medium should be damp enough to retain structure without being saturated.
CLUTCH SIZE
The normal clutch consists of:
two eggs.
This is characteristic of many geckos.
More than one clutch can potentially be produced during a season.
EGG HANDLING
Once reptile eggs have been laid and development has begun, avoid unnecessarily:
turning or rotating them.
If eggs need to be moved, maintain their original orientation as closely as possible.
INCUBATION
Successful incubation requires control of:
• Temperature
• Moisture
• Ventilation
• Incubation medium
Incubation should not be attempted casually.
Anyone intending to breed Oedura monilis should research current species-specific breeding and incubation information before pairing animals.
Avoid:
• Saturated incubation media
• Excessive drying
• Large temperature fluctuations
HATCHLINGS
Hatchlings are considerably smaller and more delicate than adults.
Housing must be:
secure and escape-proof.
Provide:
• Small cork retreats
• Appropriate climbing surfaces
• Gentle thermal gradient
• Low-level UVB
• Appropriate humidity
• Shallow water
• Very small live prey
FEEDING HATCHLINGS
Suitable prey includes:
• Pinhead crickets
• Tiny roach nymphs
• Small black soldier fly larvae
• Other appropriately sized cultured invertebrates
Growing juveniles should be offered food more frequently than adults.
HATCHLING MONITORING
Monitor each juvenile for:
• Feeding
• Growth
• Shedding
• Hydration
• Weight gain
Do not assume every animal in a group is eating simply because food disappears.
COMMON HUSBANDRY MISTAKES
Common mistakes include:
• Treating the species as terrestrial
• Providing an empty tall enclosure
• Providing insufficient climbing surfaces
• Providing only one branch
• Providing too few bark-like retreats
• Providing only a floor-level hide
• Overheating the entire enclosure
• Providing no cool retreat
• Confusing surface temperature with air temperature
• Providing no nighttime temperature reduction
• Assuming nocturnal means UVB is unnecessary
• Providing excessively strong UVB
• Providing no UV gradient
• Failing to account for mesh reducing UVB
• Keeping the enclosure permanently wet
• Maintaining artificially high humidity at all times
• Providing poor ventilation
• Providing no humid retreat
• Feeding only one insect species
• Poor feeder gut loading
• Inappropriate calcium supplementation
• Excessive vitamin supplementation
• Overfeeding adults
• Allowing obesity
• Excessive forced handling
• Grabbing the tail
• Housing males together
• Assuming pair housing is always beneficial
• Failing to monitor breeding females
• Failing to quarantine new animals
LEGAL & SOURCING INFORMATION
Oedura monilis is native to Australia.
Australia has strict controls concerning the export of native wildlife.
Animals established legitimately within the European hobby should therefore have a lawful captive history.
Captive-bred animals should always be preferred.
When acquiring an animal, retain any available information concerning:
• Breeder
• Origin
• Date of acquisition
• Sex
• Hatch date/year
• Parentage or locality where known
Requirements relating to acquisition, keeping, sale, import, export and commercial movement can differ between:
• Republic of Ireland
• Northern Ireland
• Great Britain
• European Union
Legislation can change.
Always check current requirements before importing, exporting or internationally transporting reptiles.
Never release a captive reptile into the wild.
HUSBANDRY SUMMARY
Scientific name:
Oedura monilis
Common name:
Ocellated Velvet Gecko
Distribution:
Eastern Australia — principally Queensland and north-eastern New South Wales
Lifestyle:
Arboreal and saxicolous; nocturnal
Adult size:
Approximately 6–8 in (15–20 cm) total length
Lifespan:
Approximately 10–15+ years
Minimum enclosure:
Approximately 18 × 18 × 24 in (45 × 45 × 60 cm)
Preferred enclosure:
Approximately 24 × 18 × 24 in (60 × 45 × 60 cm) or larger
Warm elevated surface:
Approximately 82–88°F (28–31°C)
General daytime range:
Approximately 72–80°F (22–27°C)
Cooler retreat:
Approximately 68–75°F (20–24°C)
Night:
Approximately 64–72°F (18–22°C)
UVB:
Low-level linear T5 UVB recommended
Suggested accessible UVI:
Approximately 1.0–2.0 with a gradient to complete shade
Humidity:
Moderate, generally around 40–60% with temporary increases and humid microclimates
Substrate:
Approximately 2–4 in (5–10 cm) of suitable naturalistic substrate
Diet:
Varied live invertebrates
Water:
Fresh drinking water continuously available
Reproduction:
Oviparous; two eggs per clutch, with multiple clutches possible
Housing:
Individual housing safest
Handling:
Limited; primarily an observation species
Experience level:
Intermediate
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
This care sheet provides general husbandry guidance and does not replace species-specific research or veterinary advice. Individual requirements may vary.
Always check current legislation governing the acquisition, collection, import, transport, keeping, breeding or sale of reptiles in your jurisdiction.
If you have concerns about an animal’s health or care, consult a suitably experienced exotic or reptile veterinarian.
Information correct at the date of publication.
Revised: September 2026
REPTILE COMMUNITY
http://reptilecommunity.com