Sudan / Great Plated Lizard (Broadleysaurus major) Care Sheet
The Sudan Plated Lizard, Great Plated Lizard or Broadley’s Rough-scaled Plated Lizard (Broadleysaurus major) is a robust, heavily armoured terrestrial lizard from eastern and parts of central/southern Africa.
Older literature and much of the reptile trade still refer to this species as Gerrhosaurus major. Following taxonomic revision it is now generally placed in the genus Broadleysaurus, so keepers may encounter both scientific names.
These lizards inhabit dry savannah, rocky outcrops and semi-arid environments, where they forage across the ground, bask in strong sunlight and retreat into rock crevices, burrows and other sheltered microhabitats.
Although often described as hardy, they should not be treated as a species requiring only a small, dry enclosure. They are active diurnal lizards that benefit enormously from substantial floor space, deep diggable substrate, rocky cover, powerful basking heat, high-quality UVB and access to more humid retreats.
Their heavily plated appearance can also give a misleading impression of an animal that enjoys handling. Temperament varies considerably. Some individuals become very confident around people, while others remain shy and are best maintained primarily as display animals.
Successful husbandry centres on space, deep substrate, secure retreats, a broad hot basking area, strong UVB, bright visible lighting, dietary variety and allowing the animal to choose between hot/dry exposed areas and cooler, more humid shelter.
Quick Facts
Scientific name: Broadleysaurus major
Older/common scientific name: Gerrhosaurus major
Common names: Sudan Plated Lizard, Great Plated Lizard, Broadley’s Rough-scaled Plated Lizard
Family: Gerrhosauridae
Native range: Eastern Africa and adjoining regions
Lifestyle: Terrestrial, with digging and crevice-dwelling behaviour
Activity: Diurnal
Adult length: Commonly approximately 45–60+ cm total length
Lifespan: Potentially 15–20+ years; exceptional captive longevity beyond 20 years has been reported
Experience level: Intermediate
Diet: Omnivorous, strongly invertebrate-based
Adult enclosure: Approximately 150 × 90 × 75 cm or larger preferred for one adult
Basking surface: Approximately 40–46°C
Warm ambient: Approximately 27–30°C
Cool area: Approximately 22–25°C
Night temperature: Approximately 18–22°C
UVB: Essential
Target basking UVI: Approximately 4–6
Practical UVB: High-output linear T5 HO system at the correct distance
Humidity: Moderate overall, with access to significantly more humid retreats
Substrate: Deep and diggable
Water: Fresh water available continuously
Handling: Variable; voluntary interaction preferred
Social housing: Individual housing safest
Reproduction: Egg-laying
Taxonomy
This species was historically known as:
Gerrhosaurus major
Following molecular work on African plated lizards, it was moved into the genus:
Broadleysaurus
and is therefore now commonly written:
Broadleysaurus major.
For an older animal, paperwork or veterinary record, seeing Gerrhosaurus major does not necessarily mean that the identification is incorrect; it may simply use the older taxonomy.
Natural Distribution
The species occurs across parts of eastern Africa and neighbouring regions.
Its distribution includes areas of:
- Kenya
- Tanzania
- Ethiopia
- Somalia
- Sudan and neighbouring regions
- Mozambique and adjoining areas depending upon taxonomic/locality treatment
Natural Habitat
Sudan Plated Lizards inhabit environments including:
- Dry savannah
- Rocky hills
- Rocky outcrops
- Semi-arid scrub
- Grassland
- Termite-mound systems
They make extensive use of:
- Rock cracks
- Burrows
- Soil
- Vegetation
- Underground retreats
for protection and environmental regulation.
Appearance
The species has a heavily armoured appearance produced by rows of large, rough, plate-like scales.
Typical colours include:
- Tan
- Brown
- Yellow-brown
- Grey-brown
often with darker markings.
Plated Scales
The characteristic scales provide substantial protection.
When threatened in nature, plated lizards may wedge themselves tightly into rocky crevices.
Their body structure and armour make them difficult for predators to extract.
Adult Size
Adults commonly reach approximately:
45–60+ cm total length
with particularly large animals approaching around 70 cm.
Much of this length consists of tail.
Males and Females
Mature males tend to become:
- Larger
- More robust
- Broader-headed
and may develop more obvious colour around the:
- Throat
- Neck
- Sides
particularly during reproductive periods.
Behaviour
Normal behaviour includes:
- Basking
- Digging
- Exploring
- Foraging
- Investigating scents
- Climbing over rocks
- Retreating into crevices
- Hiding beneath substrate
Temperament
Temperament varies considerably.
Some individuals become remarkably confident and may tolerate routine interaction.
Others remain:
- Shy
- Fast
- Defensive
- Easily stressed
There is no guarantee that a juvenile will become a lizard that enjoys being handled.
Handling
Allow a new animal time to establish itself before attempting unnecessary handling.
Where possible, use:
voluntary interaction
rather than repeatedly chasing the animal around its enclosure.
Trust Building
Useful approaches include:
- Sitting near the enclosure
- Predictable feeding routines
- Tong feeding
- Allowing the animal to approach voluntarily
- Moving slowly
Tail
The tail is an important defensive structure.
A frightened plated lizard may use rapid body and tail movements to escape.
Never deliberately restrain the animal by its tail.
Enclosure Size
This species is more active than its heavy appearance suggests.
For an adult, approximately:
150 × 90 × 75 cm
is an excellent practical target.
A smaller 120 × 60 × 60 cm enclosure is sometimes quoted in care literature, but larger accommodation provides considerably better opportunities for movement and environmental gradients. Published British husbandry-based calculations using adult snout-to-vent length produce an enclosure around 147 × 98 × 74 cm.
For an expo-ready welfare standard, therefore:
approximately 150 × 90 × 75 cm or larger is preferred.
Floor Space
Floor space is particularly important.
The animal needs room to:
- Walk
- Explore
- Forage
- Dig
- Thermoregulate
Juveniles
Juveniles can be housed in appropriately furnished larger accommodation provided:
- Food is easy to locate
- Temperatures are correct
- Plenty of cover is available
- Security is excellent
There is no requirement to keep a healthy juvenile in an extremely small enclosure simply because it is young.
Substrate
Provide a deep, naturalistic substrate.
Suitable mixtures can include:
- Organic topsoil
- Washed play sand
- Coco fibre
- Clay-containing soil
- Leaf litter
Substrate Depth
Provide approximately:
15–25 cm
where practical.
Deeper areas are beneficial.
Why Deep Substrate?
Plated lizards naturally dig and use underground shelter.
Deep substrate provides:
- Exercise
- Security
- Humidity regulation
- Temperature regulation
- Behavioural enrichment
Moisture Gradient
Do not keep all substrate bone dry.
A useful enclosure can contain:
drier exposed surface → slightly moist deeper substrate → humid retreat
Humid Hide
Provide at least one humid retreat.
This can help with:
- Hydration
- Shedding
- Behavioural choice
Hides
Provide several secure retreats.
At minimum include:
- Warm hide
- Cool hide
- Humid hide
Rock Crevices
Rock-like crevices are particularly appropriate.
These can be created using:
- Secure natural rock
- Cork
- Artificial rockwork
- Slate structures
Rock Safety
Heavy rocks must be supported securely.
Never allow a digging animal to undermine an unstable rock pile.
Climbing
Although primarily terrestrial, plated lizards will use:
- Rocks
- Logs
- Low branches
- Platforms
Provide low-level climbing opportunities.
Enrichment
Useful enrichment includes:
- Deep substrate
- Leaf litter
- Multiple textures
- Cork
- Rocks
- Food searching
- Scent trails
- Changing feeding locations
- Safe live-prey hunting
Temperature Gradient
A clear temperature gradient is essential.
Basking Surface Temperature
Provide a broad basking surface around:
40–46°C
Some husbandry sources recommend basking surfaces around 41–46°C for this strongly basking diurnal species.
Warm Ambient Temperature
Maintain warmer daytime air around:
27–30°C
Cool Area
Provide cooler areas around:
22–25°C
Night Temperature
Night temperatures can generally fall to approximately:
18–22°C
provided the animal is healthy and appropriate daytime heating is restored.
Surface Temperature Is Not Air Temperature
This is particularly important for somebody buying their first setup.
A basking rock measuring:
44°C
does not mean the enclosure air should be 44°C.
The animal requires:
hot basking surface + warm air + cool retreat
Broad Basking Area
The basking zone should warm a useful proportion of the lizard’s body.
Avoid creating one tiny, dangerously concentrated hot spot.
Heating
Suitable overhead heat sources include:
- Halogen flood lamps
- Appropriate incandescent basking floods
Heat Safety
Heating equipment must be positioned where the animal cannot contact it.
Thermostat
Where appropriate, heating equipment should be controlled by a suitable thermostat while still being independently checked with thermometers.
Measuring Temperature
Use:
digital probe thermometers
for ambient temperatures.
Use an:
infrared thermometer
for basking surfaces.
Both are useful; they measure different things.
UVB
UVB is essential.
Sudan Plated Lizards are strongly diurnal and naturally bask under intense African sunlight. Specialist husbandry guidance recommends high-quality T5 HO UVB systems for the species.
Target UVI
At the main basking position, aim approximately for:
UVI 4–6
while providing lower-exposure and completely shaded areas.
What Is UVI?
UVI means Ultraviolet Index.
It tells us how much biologically effective ultraviolet radiation is reaching the animal at a particular location.
For the keeper, think of it as measuring the strength of the artificial “sunlight” at the lizard’s basking position.
UV Gradient
The enclosure should provide something approximately like:
Main basking zone: UVI 4–6
Surrounding illuminated area: UVI 2–3
Partial shade: UVI below 2
Deep hide/burrow: approaching UVI 0
Why Not UVI 4–6 Everywhere?
Because wild reptiles regulate their exposure.
They move between:
sun → partial shade → deep shade → underground shelter
The captive enclosure should allow exactly the same choice.
What UVB Lamp Do I Actually Need?
For an adult Sudan Plated Lizard, you should generally be looking for a:
high-quality linear T5 HO UVB tube
rather than relying on a small compact UVB bulb.
In many typical 60–75 cm-high enclosures, suitable products fall broadly into the:
10–14% desert/high-output UVB class
when installed at the correct distance.
Published husbandry recommendations include high-output products such as 10.0, 12% and 14% T5 HO systems depending upon installation.
Does That Mean I Automatically Buy a 14% Tube?
No.
This is exactly why we give a UVI target rather than simply saying “buy a 12% bulb.”
The amount of UV reaching the animal depends upon:
- Lamp model
- Distance
- Reflector
- Mesh
- Lamp age
- Basking platform height
A 12% tube positioned farther away can expose the animal to less UV than a lower-output tube positioned much closer.
What This Means in Practice
For somebody standing in a reptile shop or at the expo wondering what they need:
Look for:
LINEAR T5 HO UVB
and tell the retailer you are setting up a:
high-UV, diurnal African basking lizard
with a target of approximately:
UVI 4–6 at the basking position.
Then install the lamp at the correct manufacturer-recommended distance.
UVB and Heat Should Overlap
Place the main UVB source over the same general area as the basking heat.
The primary basking zone should therefore provide:
HEAT + BRIGHT LIGHT + UVB
This better replicates natural sunlight.
Mesh
Mesh can reduce UV output.
A lamp positioned:
above mesh
may need a different distance from one positioned:
inside the enclosure
Never assume the same distance works for every installation.
UV Meter
The best method of checking exposure is an appropriate:
UV Index meter
Measure at approximately the height of the lizard’s back while it is sitting naturally on the basking surface.
If You Don’t Own a UV Meter
Most first-time keepers won’t.
Use:
- A reputable T5 HO system
- The manufacturer’s current distance chart
- Correct basking placement
- Plenty of shade
Do not simply mount the strongest available UV lamp extremely close to the animal.
Visible Lighting
Bright visible lighting is strongly recommended.
These animals naturally experience bright outdoor conditions.
Additional daylight LED lighting can improve:
- Activity
- Circadian rhythm
- Feeding
- Natural basking behaviour
- Enclosure presentation
Photoperiod
Provide approximately:
11–13 hours of daylight
with seasonal variation where appropriate.
Use a timer.
Night Lighting
The enclosure should become dark at night.
Do not use visible:
- Red
- Blue
- Purple
night bulbs.
Humidity
Sudan Plated Lizards come from relatively dry environments but still use humid microclimates.
This is an important distinction.
Ambient Humidity
Approximately:
40–60%
is suitable across much of the enclosure.
Humid Retreat
A retreat may rise substantially higher, potentially:
70–80%
depending upon conditions.
Don’t Keep Everything Bone Dry
An “African savannah species” does not mean:
permanently dehydrated enclosure.
Underground retreats and crevices naturally retain moisture.
Don’t Keep Everything Wet Either
The enclosure should not be:
- Saturated
- Swampy
- Stagnant
Ventilation
Good airflow remains essential.
Water
Provide fresh clean water continuously.
Use a stable bowl that cannot easily be overturned.
Soaking
Some individuals may occasionally soak.
Keep the water clean.
Diet
Sudan Plated Lizards are:
omnivorous
with invertebrates forming a major component of the diet.
Suitable Invertebrates
Offer a variety including:
- Locusts
- Crickets
- Roaches
- Black soldier fly larvae
- Silkworms
- Appropriate beetle larvae
- Earthworms from safe sources
- Snails from safe captive sources
Snails
Snails can provide excellent dietary variety.
Do not collect snails from areas where exposure to:
- Pesticides
- Molluscicides
- Parasites
cannot be ruled out.
Gut Loading
Feeder insects should be properly gut-loaded for approximately:
24–48 hours
before feeding.
Plant Foods
Plant foods can include:
- Dandelion greens
- Endive
- Escarole
- Rocket
- Appropriate leafy greens
- Squash
- Grated sweet potato
- Edible flowers
Flowers
Safe pesticide-free edible flowers may include:
- Hibiscus
- Dandelion
- Nasturtium
- Rose petals
Fruit
Fruit can be offered as an:
occasional treat
rather than a major dietary component.
Suitable examples include:
- Berries
- Papaya
- Mango
- Fig
- Prickly pear
Fruit is relatively high in sugar and calories, so restraint is important.
Whole Vertebrate Prey
Large adults may consume occasional appropriately sized whole vertebrate prey.
This should remain:
occasional
rather than turning the diet into a rodent-based feeding programme.
Why Not Lots of Rodents?
Plated lizards are enthusiastic feeders and can become overweight.
A calorie-dense rodent-heavy diet is unnecessary.
Dietary Variety
A good captive diet should rotate:
invertebrates + appropriate vegetation + flowers + limited fruit + occasional other suitable foods
rather than providing the same meal continuously.
Calcium
Most routine insect meals should receive appropriate calcium supplementation.
With effective UVB, plain calcium without additional D3 is commonly used for routine dusting.
Vitamin D3
Where appropriate UVB is correctly provided, additional dietary vitamin D3 should generally be used sparingly according to the overall supplementation programme.
Multivitamin
A suitable reptile multivitamin may be used periodically.
Juvenile Feeding
Young animals can generally receive appropriately sized food:
daily or near-daily
depending upon:
- Meal size
- Growth
- Body condition
Adult Feeding
Healthy adults can generally be offered substantial meals:
approximately 3–4 times per week
with quantities adjusted according to:
- Activity
- Body condition
- Food type
- Season
Obesity
Plated lizards can become overweight.
A healthy animal should appear:
robust and muscular
rather than excessively round.
Feeding Enrichment
Encourage natural foraging by:
- Releasing suitable insects
- Hiding insects beneath leaf litter
- Varying feeding locations
- Using edible flowers
- Creating scent trails
Social Housing
Individual housing is the safest recommendation for the general keeper.
Cohabitation does not provide a necessary social benefit and can introduce competition and stress.
Adult Males
Adult males should not routinely be housed together.
Territorial aggression may occur.
Male and Female Housing
A compatible male and female may breed.
Permanent cohabitation should not be assumed safe simply because obvious fighting is absent.
Separate accommodation should always be available.
Sexing
Mature males generally become:
- Larger
- Broader-headed
- More robust
and may show stronger colour around the throat.
Breeding
Sudan Plated Lizards are:
oviparous — egg-laying
Seasonal Cycling
Some breeding programmes use seasonal changes in:
- Temperature
- Photoperiod
- Feeding
to stimulate reproduction.
Courtship
Breeding behaviour can include:
- Increased activity
- Following
- Territorial behaviour
- Courtship interactions
Nesting
Females require access to a suitable laying area containing:
- Deep substrate
- Appropriate moisture
- Privacy
- Stable warmth
Clutch Size
Females commonly produce relatively small clutches.
Approximately:
2–4 eggs
is typical, although larger clutches are reported. Zoo husbandry information records 2–4 eggs, while captive reports extend the range somewhat higher.
Female Nutrition
Breeding females require excellent:
- Calcium
- UVB
- Hydration
- Nutrition
Gravid Behaviour
A female approaching laying may:
- Dig extensively
- Explore enclosure edges
- Become restless
- Change feeding behaviour
- Investigate potential nest sites
Egg Retention
Seek veterinary assistance for:
- Persistent straining
- Severe lethargy
- Hind-limb weakness
- Abnormal swelling
- Repeated unsuccessful nesting
Incubation
Eggs are commonly incubated around:
27–29°C
under stable conditions.
Incubation Duration
Hatching commonly occurs after approximately:
80–110 days
depending upon temperature and incubation conditions.
Zoo records describe approximately three to four months.
Egg Handling
Avoid unnecessary rotation after laying.
Maintain suitable moisture without saturating the incubation medium.
Hatchlings
Hatchlings require:
- Secure accommodation
- Diggable substrate
- Multiple small hides
- Appropriate basking heat
- UVB
- Humid retreat
- Fresh water
- Appropriately sized food
Hatchling Diet
Suitable foods include:
- Small crickets
- Small roaches
- Black soldier fly larvae
- Small locusts
- Small earthworms
- Appropriate plant foods
Hatchling UVB
Provide appropriate UVB from the beginning.
Rapidly growing animals require excellent calcium metabolism.
Quarantine
New animals should undergo quarantine.
Approximately:
90 days
is a sensible starting point.
Quarantine Monitoring
Record:
- Weight
- Appetite
- Faeces
- Urates
- Shedding
- Hydration
- Respiration
- Activity
Parasite Screening
Veterinary faecal screening is particularly valuable for:
- Wild-caught animals
- Imports
- Animals of uncertain history
Captive-Bred Preference
Captive-bred animals should be strongly preferred.
Historically, many plated lizards in the pet trade have been imported.
Captive-bred animals provide advantages including:
- Known history
- Reduced parasite risk
- Better adaptation to captivity
- Reduced pressure on wild populations
Shedding
Appropriate:
- Hydration
- Humid retreats
- Rough surfaces
- Substrate moisture
support healthy shedding.
Toes and Tail
Pay particular attention to retained shed around:
- Toes
- Tail tip
Repeated retained shed can restrict circulation.
Metabolic Bone Disease
Inadequate:
- UVB
- Calcium
- Nutrition
can contribute to metabolic bone disease.
Possible signs include:
- Tremors
- Weakness
- Limb deformity
- Soft jaw
- Difficulty walking
- Fractures
Dehydration
Possible signs include:
- Sunken eyes
- Lethargy
- Poor appetite
- Abnormal skin condition
Remember that an arid-adapted reptile can still become dehydrated.
Respiratory Disease
Warning signs include:
- Wheezing
- Clicking
- Nasal discharge
- Excess mucus
- Persistent abnormal open-mouth breathing
- Severe lethargy
Parasites
Wild-origin animals may arrive with substantial parasite burdens.
Possible signs include:
- Weight loss
- Poor condition
- Abnormal faeces
- Reduced appetite
- Persistent diarrhoea
Seek veterinary assessment rather than treating blindly.
Signs of Good Health
A healthy plated lizard should generally display:
- Clear alert eyes
- Strong coordinated movement
- Regular basking
- Active foraging
- Good feeding response
- Healthy skin
- Normal faeces
- Robust but not obese body condition
Warning Signs
Seek veterinary advice for:
- Persistent food refusal
- Significant weight loss
- Weakness
- Tremors
- Limb abnormalities
- Persistent retained shed
- Respiratory symptoms
- Persistent diarrhoea
- Severe lethargy
- Reproductive difficulty
Common Husbandry Mistakes
Enclosure Too Small
These are active terrestrial lizards.
Thin Substrate
They naturally dig and use underground retreats.
Keeping Everything Bone Dry
Provide access to humid microclimates.
Keeping Everything Wet
This is not a tropical swamp species.
No Rock or Crevice Cover
Secure tight retreats are an important part of natural behaviour.
Entire Enclosure Too Hot
Provide a strong basking zone and a genuine cool end.
Basking Temperature Too Low
These are active sun-basking African lizards.
No UVB
Appropriate UVB is essential.
Using Only a Tiny Compact UVB Bulb
A linear T5 HO system provides substantially better usable coverage.
Buying UVB by Percentage Alone
Actual UVI depends upon distance and installation.
No UV Shade
The animal must be able to retreat completely from UV exposure.
Dim Lighting
Heat alone does not recreate sunlight.
Feeding Only Crickets
Provide substantial dietary variety.
Feeding Too Much Fruit
Fruit should remain an occasional component.
Feeding Too Many Rodents
Whole vertebrate prey should not dominate the diet.
Poor Gut Loading
The nutritional quality of feeder insects matters.
Overfeeding
Plated lizards can become obese.
Assuming It Will Become Tame
Temperament varies considerably between individuals.
Forcing Handling
Allow trust to develop gradually.
Housing Multiple Males Together
Territorial aggression may occur.
Conservation and Trade
Captive-bred animals should be preferred and accurate provenance retained.
Always check current regulations governing:
- Collection
- Export
- Import
- Transport
- Keeping
- Sale
in your jurisdiction.
Responsible Ownership
Before acquiring a Sudan Plated Lizard, ensure you can provide:
- A substantial terrestrial enclosure
- Approximately 150 × 90 × 75 cm or larger preferred adult accommodation
- Deep diggable substrate
- Secure rock-like retreats
- A humid hide
- A broad basking surface around 40–46°C
- Cooler retreat areas
- High-quality linear T5 HO UVB
- Approximately UVI 4–6 at the primary basking position
- Complete UV shade
- Bright visible daytime lighting
- Fresh water
- A varied invertebrate-rich omnivorous diet
- Gut-loaded feeder insects
- Appropriate plant foods
- Limited fruit
- Appropriate calcium and vitamin supplementation
- Enrichment and foraging opportunities
- Specialist reptile veterinary care
Suitability
Advantages
- Impressive armoured appearance
- Active during the day
- Fascinating natural behaviour
- Excellent feeding response
- Interesting digging behaviour
- Varied omnivorous diet
- Long-lived
- Some individuals become very confident around keepers
- Excellent naturalistic display species
Considerations
- Requires substantial floor space
- Requires deep substrate
- Requires strong UVB
- Requires high basking temperatures
- Requires live food
- Can become obese
- Temperament is variable
- Wild-origin animals may have significant parasite burdens
- Long-term commitment
Summary
The Sudan or Great Plated Lizard (Broadleysaurus major, formerly Gerrhosaurus major) is a robust, active African lizard whose armoured appearance should not be mistaken for simple husbandry requirements.
Successful care centres on:
- Approximately 150 × 90 × 75 cm or larger preferred adult accommodation
- Substantial floor space
- Approximately 15–25 cm or deeper diggable substrate
- Secure rock crevices and hides
- A humid retreat
- A broad basking surface around 40–46°C
- Warm ambient temperatures around 27–30°C
- Cooler areas around 22–25°C
- Night temperatures around 18–22°C
- Moderate ambient humidity with more humid retreats
- A high-quality linear T5 HO UVB system
- Approximately UVI 4–6 at the principal basking position
- Progressively lower UV exposure and complete shade
- Bright visible daytime lighting
- Constant fresh water
- A varied invertebrate-rich omnivorous diet
- Limited fruit
- Occasional rather than routine vertebrate prey
- Proper gut loading
- Appropriate calcium and vitamin supplementation
- Individual housing as the safest general recommendation
- Enrichment and digging opportunities
- Captive-bred animals strongly preferred
UVB in Simple Terms
If you’re at the expo looking at a wall full of reptile lamps and wondering what you’re actually supposed to buy, this species needs a fairly strong UVB setup.
Look for a:
LINEAR T5 HO UVB TUBE
—not just a little compact UVB bulb.
For many normal adult setups, you will probably be looking somewhere in the 10–14% desert/high-output range, depending on the enclosure and distance.
But don’t simply buy the strongest tube on the shelf.
Our actual target is:
UVI 4–6 at the lizard’s basking position.
The lamp’s percentage and the UVI reaching your lizard are not the same thing.
Distance matters enormously.
Mesh matters.
The reflector matters.
The height of your basking rock matters.
The ideal enclosure should give the lizard:
HOT + VERY BRIGHT + UVB
at its main basking area.
Then, as it moves away, it should encounter:
less UV → partial shade → deep shade → dark hide
That means the lizard can regulate its own exposure just as it would outdoors.
If you don’t own a UV meter, that’s fine. Choose a reputable linear T5 HO system and use the manufacturer’s current distance chart for that exact lamp.
And remember:
The basking bulb provides heat.
The UVB tube provides ultraviolet.
Bright daylight LEDs provide visible light.
They perform different jobs.
A really good basking zone brings those elements together to create something much closer to a patch of natural sunlight.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION:
This care sheet provides general husbandry guidance and does not replace species-specific research or veterinary advice. Individual requirements may vary.
Always check current legislation governing the acquisition, collection, import, transport, keeping, breeding or sale of reptiles in your jurisdiction.
If you have concerns about an animal’s health or care, consult a suitably experienced exotic or reptile veterinarian.
Information correct at the date of publication.
reptilecommunity.com | Revised: August 2026