African Twig Mantis (Popa spurca) Care Sheet
The African Twig Mantis (Popa spurca) is a slender, cryptically patterned praying mantis renowned for its remarkable resemblance to a dry twig or thin branch.
Rather than relying on bright floral colours or dramatic leaf-like lobes, Popa spurca uses an elongated body, muted brown and grey colouration and exceptionally still behaviour to disappear among woody vegetation. When resting lengthways along a branch, the outline of the insect can be remarkably difficult to distinguish from its surroundings.
This species is generally considered manageable for keepers with some basic mantis experience. It is less demanding than highly specialised species such as the Devil’s Flower Mantis, but still requires careful attention to ventilation, hydration, live prey and moulting space.
Like most praying mantises, African Twig Mantises are predators and should normally be housed individually. Even animals that appear tolerant of one another can cannibalise, particularly during moulting or when size differences develop.
Successful husbandry requires individual housing, a tall and exceptionally well-ventilated enclosure, moderate warmth, relatively moderate humidity, appropriate drinking opportunities, correctly sized live prey and generous unobstructed vertical space for moulting.
Quick Facts
Scientific name: Popa spurca
Common names: African Twig Mantis, Twig Mantis
Order: Mantodea
Origin: Africa
Adult female size: Approximately 6–8 cm
Adult male size: Approximately 5–7 cm
Diet: Carnivorous/insectivorous
Lifestyle: Arboreal ambush predator
Activity: Primarily diurnal and crepuscular
Housing: Individually
Temperature: Approximately 22–28°C
Humidity: Low to moderate, generally around 40–60% with excellent ventilation
Handling: Occasional gentle handling possible
Flight: Adult males are capable fliers
Experience level: Beginner to intermediate
Major requirements: Strong ventilation, live prey and safe moulting space
Natural Distribution
Popa spurca occurs across parts of Africa.
It is associated with relatively warm habitats containing:
- Dry scrub
- Bushland
- Woody vegetation
- Shrubs
- Grassland edges
- Thin branches and stems
Its twig-like appearance provides excellent camouflage in these environments.
Natural Lifestyle
African Twig Mantises are:
ambush predators.
They spend considerable periods remaining almost completely motionless.
Typical behaviour includes:
- Aligning the body with branches
- Remaining still for long periods
- Swaying slowly when moving
- Watching nearby insects
- Striking rapidly when prey enters range
Their stillness is an important part of their camouflage.
Appearance
The species has a distinctly elongated appearance.
Typical features include:
- Narrow body
- Long prothorax
- Slender legs
- Long antennae
- Twig-like colouration
- Large triangular head
- Powerful raptorial forelegs
The body lacks the broad floral or leaf-like structures seen in many specialised mantises.
Twig Mimicry
The African Twig Mantis relies upon:
shape, colour and behaviour
to resemble dried vegetation.
When resting, individuals may hold their body nearly parallel with a branch and remain motionless.
The illusion is enhanced by:
- Brown colouration
- Irregular mottling
- Long narrow limbs
- Slow movement
Colour
Common colouration includes:
- Light brown
- Dark brown
- Grey
- Tan
- Reddish brown
Individuals may show subtle pattern variation.
A brown appearance is completely normal and forms part of the species’ natural camouflage.
Adult Size
Adult females commonly reach approximately:
6–8 cm in body length.
Adult males are usually somewhat smaller and slimmer, around:
5–7 cm.
Exact size varies between individuals and populations.
Sexual Dimorphism
Adult males and females differ in several ways.
Females are generally:
- Larger
- Broader
- Heavier
- More robust
Males are:
- Slimmer
- Lighter
- More mobile
- Better fliers
Adult Females
Adult females develop:
- Broader abdomens
- Heavier body proportions
- Developed wings
- Powerful forelegs
Their increased body mass generally makes them less capable fliers than males.
Adult Males
Adult males are usually:
- Slender
- Lightweight
- More active
- More capable of flight
Take additional care when opening an adult male’s enclosure.
Sexing Nymphs
Nymphs can often be sexed by counting visible abdominal segments from underneath.
Females generally show:
six visible abdominal segments
while males generally show:
eight.
This becomes easier as the mantis develops.
Why Sexing Is Useful
Knowing the sex can help with:
- Breeding plans
- Monitoring growth
- Predicting adult size
- Managing different maturation rates
Males may mature somewhat earlier than females.
Head and Vision
African Twig Mantises possess the characteristic:
triangular mantis head.
The head is highly mobile, allowing the insect to track movement without moving the rest of its body significantly.
Their large compound eyes are particularly important for detecting prey.
Raptorial Forelegs
The front pair of legs are modified into:
raptorial forelegs.
They contain strong spines used to seize struggling prey.
The strike is extremely rapid compared with the mantis’ otherwise slow movements.
Hunting Behaviour
The mantis usually waits for prey rather than continuously pursuing it.
When a suitable insect moves within range, the mantis:
- Turns toward the prey.
- Judges the distance.
- Slowly positions itself.
- Strikes rapidly.
- Holds the prey with its forelegs.
Diet
African Twig Mantises require:
live invertebrate prey.
Suitable captive foods include:
- Fruit flies
- House flies
- Green bottle flies
- Blue bottle flies
- Small feeder roaches
- Small locusts
- Crickets used cautiously
Dietary variety is beneficial.
Hatchling Food
Very young nymphs require tiny feeders.
Suitable options include:
- Drosophila melanogaster
- Drosophila hydei
Choose the smaller prey size for newly hatched individuals.
Flies
Flies are particularly useful.
They:
- Remain active
- Move through upper enclosure areas
- Trigger natural hunting behaviour
- Are easy for the mantis to locate
Gradually increase fly size as the mantis grows.
Roaches
Small captive-bred roaches can provide useful variety.
Choose prey that is:
- Appropriately sized
- Not heavily armoured
- Easy for the mantis to overpower
Remove uneaten individuals.
Locusts
Small captive-bred locusts may be offered to larger nymphs and adults.
Avoid oversized prey capable of damaging the mantis.
Crickets
Crickets can be offered cautiously.
They can:
- Bite
- Hide
- Disturb a moulting mantis
- Attack freshly moulted animals
Do not leave uneaten crickets in the enclosure.
Wild-Caught Prey
Wild insects should generally be avoided.
Potential risks include:
- Pesticides
- Parasites
- Pathogens
- Unknown chemical exposure
Captive-bred feeders are safer.
Vertebrate Prey
African Twig Mantises do not require vertebrate prey.
Do not offer:
- Mice
- Lizards
- Frogs
- Birds
A suitable diet can be provided entirely with invertebrates.
Prey Size
Feed insects that can be subdued safely.
Avoid prey that is:
- Too large
- Aggressive
- Heavily armoured
- Capable of injuring the mantis
Feeding Frequency
Feeding frequency depends upon:
- Age
- Temperature
- Prey size
- Body condition
- Reproductive state
Young nymphs generally require food more frequently than adults.
Abdomen Condition
The abdomen is a useful guide to feeding.
A relatively thin abdomen may indicate hunger.
A very full abdomen suggests additional food is not immediately necessary.
Overfeeding
Avoid constantly overfeeding.
An excessively heavy abdomen may increase:
- Fall risk
- Physical strain
- Reduced mobility
Feed according to body condition rather than simply offering prey continuously.
Premoult Fasting
Refusal of food is common before moulting.
If a nymph suddenly stops feeding and begins hanging quietly:
premoult may be approaching.
Remove live prey.
Housing
African Twig Mantises should normally be housed:
individually.
Suitable enclosure types include:
- Tall acrylic mantis enclosures
- Mesh insect cages
- Well-ventilated terrariums
- Purpose-built mantis containers
Why Individual Housing Is Best
Mantises are predators.
Cannibalism can occur between:
- Nymphs
- Juveniles
- Adults
- Breeding pairs
Individual housing gives the safest control over feeding and moulting.
Enclosure Size
A useful general rule is:
at least three times the mantis’ body length in height
and:
at least twice its body length in width.
For an adult, approximately:
20 × 20 × 30 cm or larger
provides a practical starting point.
Why Height Matters
Mantises moult while hanging upside down.
The insect must be able to:
- Secure itself overhead.
- Hang completely free.
- Split the old exoskeleton.
- Pull downward.
- Extract its legs.
- Extend fully.
- Remain suspended while hardening.
Insufficient height can cause fatal mismoults.
Clear Moulting Zone
Keep adequate open space beneath the enclosure roof.
Avoid placing dense decorations immediately below every potential hanging position.
The mantis must not strike:
- Branches
- Plants
- Feeding dishes
- The enclosure floor
during moulting.
Roof Grip
The roof should provide a secure gripping surface.
Suitable materials include:
- Fine plastic mesh
- Fabric insect mesh
- Safe textured ventilation material
Smooth glass or acrylic alone is unsuitable.
Metal Mesh
Avoid coarse or sharp metal mesh.
Mantis feet can become:
- Trapped
- Worn
- Injured
Fine insect-safe mesh is preferable.
Ventilation
Excellent ventilation is particularly important for this species.
African Twig Mantises are generally better suited to:
well-aerated, moderately dry conditions
than to wet, stagnant enclosures.
Cross-Ventilation
Cross-ventilation is strongly recommended.
Useful designs include:
- Vents on opposite walls
- Side ventilation plus roof mesh
- Large mesh panels
This allows continuous air exchange.
Temperature
A useful temperature range is approximately:
22–28°C.
Around:
24–26°C
provides a good routine target.
Moderate nighttime cooling is normally acceptable.
Night Temperature
Nighttime temperatures can fall somewhat lower than daytime conditions.
Avoid prolonged exposure to cold temperatures.
Stable moderate conditions are preferable.
Heating
Supplemental heating may be unnecessary in a warm home.
If additional heat is required, use:
- Room heating
- Gentle external heat
- Thermostatically controlled equipment
Avoid intense localised heating.
Thermostat
Any dedicated heater should ideally be controlled using:
a reliable thermostat.
Small mantis enclosures can overheat rapidly.
Direct Sunlight
Never use direct sunlight as a heating method.
A transparent enclosure can become dangerously hot within minutes.
Humidity
African Twig Mantises generally require:
low-to-moderate humidity.
A useful general range is approximately:
40–60% relative humidity.
Young nymphs and premoult individuals still require dependable hydration.
Do Not Keep the Enclosure Permanently Wet
This species should not be maintained in:
- Saturated substrate
- Constant condensation
- Permanently wet surfaces
- Stagnant air
Allow the enclosure to dry between mistings.
Humidity and Hydration
Lower humidity does not mean the mantis should become dehydrated.
Correct care provides:
- Appropriate airflow
- Regular drinking opportunities
- Suitable environmental moisture
without creating swamp-like conditions.
Misting
Light misting can provide drinking droplets.
Frequency varies according to:
- Room humidity
- Temperature
- Ventilation
- Enclosure design
In many setups, light misting every day or every few days is sufficient.
Drinking
Mantises commonly drink droplets from:
- Walls
- Leaves
- Mesh
- Branches
Observe whether the mantis drinks following misting.
Direct Spraying
Avoid forcefully spraying the mantis itself.
Use a fine mist directed mainly toward nearby surfaces.
Water Bowls
Open water dishes are generally unnecessary.
Hydration can be supplied through:
- Drinking droplets
- Prey
- Environmental moisture
Standing water can create unnecessary risks for small nymphs.
Substrate
Simple substrate works well.
Suitable options include:
- Paper towel
- Plain paper
- Thin coco fibre
- Naturalistic substrate
Paper is particularly practical for monitoring cleanliness.
Paper Flooring
Paper makes it easy to:
- Remove droppings
- Remove prey remains
- Detect mould
- Monitor general hygiene
Replace it as necessary.
Naturalistic Housing
A naturalistic enclosure can include:
- Thin dry branches
- Cork bark
- Artificial leaves
- Pesticide-free live plants
- Dry leaf litter
The design should complement the species’ camouflage while preserving airflow.
Branches
Thin branches are especially appropriate because they reproduce the surfaces against which the mantis naturally rests.
Provide branches at:
- Vertical angles
- Diagonal angles
- Horizontal angles
Ensure they remain secure.
Camouflage Background
Neutral backgrounds containing:
- Brown
- Grey
- Bark-like textures
can make the mantis’ camouflage particularly impressive.
Decorative appearance should never take priority over ventilation or moulting space.
Lighting
Provide a regular day/night cycle.
Approximately:
12 hours light and 12 hours dark
provides a useful general schedule.
UVB
Specialised UVB lighting is not generally considered necessary for routine husbandry.
Any lighting should not:
- Overheat the enclosure
- Excessively dry the mantis
- Eliminate nighttime darkness
Activity
African Twig Mantises can appear extremely inactive.
This is normal.
Stillness is part of their:
camouflage and hunting strategy.
Swaying Behaviour
When walking, the mantis may sway slowly from side to side.
This may imitate:
a twig moving in the wind.
It is normal behaviour.
Resting Posture
A resting individual may:
- Stretch itself along a branch
- Hold the legs close to the body
- Remain motionless for long periods
This can make the animal surprisingly difficult to locate.
Defensive Behaviour
A threatened African Twig Mantis may:
- Freeze
- Sway
- Raise its forelegs
- Turn toward the disturbance
- Move rapidly away
- Spread its wings as an adult
Do not deliberately provoke defensive behaviour.
Thanatosis
Some individuals may remain completely motionless when threatened.
This can resemble:
death-feigning.
Give the animal time rather than repeatedly touching it to test for movement.
Handling
Occasional gentle handling is possible.
However, handling is not necessary for welfare.
Allow the mantis to:
walk onto your hand voluntarily.
Never grab the abdomen.
Handling Area
Always handle:
- Indoors
- In a closed room
- Away from open windows
- Away from exterior doors
- Away from fans
- Away from pets
Adult males can fly.
Jumping
Nymphs can jump unexpectedly.
Keep hands close to a safe surface when transferring them.
Adult Male Flight
Adult males can fly effectively.
They may take flight suddenly when:
- Disturbed
- Warm
- Searching for a female
Open their enclosure carefully.
Adult Female Flight
Adult females possess wings but their greater body mass usually makes them less capable fliers than males.
They can still flutter or escape if handled carelessly.
Defensive Strikes
A mantis can strike defensively with the spined forelegs.
This may cause:
- Pinching
- Scratching
The species is:
not venomous.
Moulting
Moulting is the most vulnerable stage of development.
Correct housing is essential.
Premoult Signs
Possible signs include:
- Refusal of prey
- Reduced activity
- Prolonged upside-down hanging
- Avoidance of feeders
When premoult is suspected, remove live prey.
During Moulting
Never:
- Handle the mantis
- Move the enclosure unnecessarily
- Add prey
- Touch the old exoskeleton
- Spray directly onto the animal
A fall can be fatal.
Freshly Moulted Mantises
Immediately after moulting, the new exoskeleton is soft.
The mantis may appear:
- Pale
- Weak
- Stretched
- Different in colour
Leave it undisturbed.
Feeding After Moulting
Wait until the mantis has:
- Hardened
- Regained strong grip
- Returned to normal coordination
before introducing substantial prey.
Exuvia
The discarded old exoskeleton is called the:
exuvia.
It can be removed after the mantis has moved away and completely finished moulting.
Mismoults
Potential causes include:
- Insufficient height
- Poor overhead grip
- Dehydration
- Inappropriate humidity
- Physical obstruction
- Disturbance
- Falls
Preventative enclosure design is extremely important.
Limb Damage
Young mantises may partially compensate for minor limb injuries during later moults.
The degree of recovery depends upon:
- Severity
- Developmental stage
- Number of moults remaining
Adults cannot repair damage through another moult.
Final Moult
The final moult produces the adult wings.
The mantis must have enough space for the wings to:
- Expand
- Straighten
- Harden
without obstruction.
Wing Deformities
Poor final moults can result in:
- Crumpled wings
- Bent wings
- Uneven expansion
Once hardened, these cannot be corrected through further moulting.
Nymph Housing
Young nymphs require appropriately sized vertical enclosures.
Provide:
- Fine ventilation
- Secure roof grip
- Appropriate warmth
- Moderate moisture
- Tiny live prey
- Clear moulting space
Upgrade housing as the mantis grows.
Escape Prevention
Small nymphs can escape through surprisingly narrow openings.
Check:
- Ventilation holes
- Mesh size
- Door gaps
- Lid seams
carefully.
Growth
Young mantises develop through a series of:
instars.
Each instar ends with a moult.
Development speed depends upon:
- Temperature
- Feeding
- Sex
- Genetics
Social Housing
African Twig Mantises should generally be maintained:
individually.
Even if young individuals appear tolerant of one another, cannibalism can occur.
Cannibalism
Risk increases when:
- Animals are hungry
- Size differences develop
- Space is limited
- One mantis is moulting
Individual housing remains the safest recommendation.
Breeding
Breeding requires careful management of mature animals.
You will need:
- Mature male
- Mature female
- Well-fed female
- Spacious breeding area
- Close observation
Female Maturity
Do not introduce a male immediately after the female becomes adult.
Allow time for:
- Hardening
- Feeding
- Reproductive maturation
Male Maturity
Adult males also require time after the final moult before mating.
Preparing the Female
Feed the female well before introducing the male.
This may reduce but cannot eliminate sexual cannibalism.
Introducing the Male
The male should ideally approach:
from behind.
Do not place him directly in front of the female.
Provide room for retreat.
Courtship
The male may:
- Watch the female
- Approach cautiously
- Pause frequently
- Move behind her
- Jump onto her back
Avoid unnecessary disturbance once mating behaviour begins.
Sexual Cannibalism
The female may attack or consume the male.
Cannibalism can occur:
- Before mating
- During mating
- After mating
Breeding introductions should always be monitored.
After Mating
Once mating has finished and the male separates, remove him when safe.
Do not permanently house adults together.
Ootheca
Females produce protective egg cases called:
oothecae.
Each ootheca contains multiple eggs.
Ootheca Attachment
Oothecae may be attached to:
- Branches
- Mesh
- Enclosure walls
- Other firm surfaces
Avoid removing firmly attached oothecae unnecessarily.
Ootheca Production
A healthy female may produce multiple oothecae during adulthood.
Some may be infertile if mating has not occurred successfully.
Ootheca Incubation
Maintain fertile oothecae with:
- Moderate warmth
- Moderate humidity
- Excellent ventilation
Avoid keeping them constantly wet.
Incubation Temperature
Approximately:
22–27°C
provides a useful general incubation range.
Stable moderate warmth is preferable.
Incubation Humidity
Maintain moderate moisture with good airflow.
Light periodic misting can prevent excessive drying.
Do not soak the ootheca.
Incubation Time
Oothecae commonly require:
several weeks to a few months
before hatching.
Exact timing varies with environmental conditions.
Preparing for Hatchlings
Before hatching, have ready:
- Fruit fly cultures
- Small rearing containers
- Fine ventilation
- Secure roof mesh
- Suitable warmth
- Adequate moulting space
Do not wait until nymphs emerge.
Hatchlings
Newly hatched nymphs require immediate access to:
tiny live prey.
Small fruit flies are usually suitable.
Nymph Cannibalism
Young nymphs can cannibalise one another.
Individual housing provides the lowest risk.
If temporarily kept together, provide:
- Abundant food
- Considerable space
- Many climbing surfaces
Separate them as soon as practical.
Population Planning
A successful breeding project can produce many nymphs.
Before breeding, ensure you can provide:
- Enough enclosures
- Enough feeder cultures
- Time for regular maintenance
- Appropriate space
- Responsible homes for surplus animals
Lifespan
Lifespan varies according to:
- Sex
- Temperature
- Feeding
- Genetics
- Reproductive activity
Females generally live longer than males.
The complete life cycle commonly lasts around:
one year, although individual variation is normal.
Health
Most captive health problems are related to husbandry.
Potential issues include:
- Mismoults
- Dehydration
- Falls
- Feeder injuries
- Overheating
- Excessive moisture
- Poor ventilation
- Pesticide exposure
Warning Signs
Potential concerns include:
- Repeated falling
- Inability to grip
- Loss of coordination
- Severe limb deformity
- Failed moulting
- Persistent weakness
- Prolonged refusal of food unrelated to premoult
Hanging Upside Down
Hanging upside down is:
normal mantis behaviour.
The animal may be:
- Resting
- Hunting
- Preparing to moult
Do not disturb it solely because of this posture.
Cleaning
Routine maintenance should include:
- Removing dead feeders
- Removing prey remains
- Removing droppings
- Replacing dirty substrate
- Removing mould
Avoid major disturbance when premoult is suspected.
Prey Remains
Partially eaten prey can:
- Decay
- Encourage mould
- Attract mites
Remove remains regularly.
Mites
Mites often become more noticeable when:
- Food waste accumulates
- Humidity is excessive
- Ventilation is poor
Correct the underlying husbandry rather than using insecticides.
Household Chemicals
Keep the enclosure away from:
- Fly spray
- Flea treatments
- Ant killer
- Household insecticides
- Garden pesticides
These products can be rapidly fatal to mantises.
Aerosols
Avoid spraying near the enclosure:
- Air fresheners
- Cleaning sprays
- Perfume
- Deodorising aerosols
Good ventilation means airborne chemicals can enter easily.
Pesticide Exposure
Possible signs of poisoning include:
- Trembling
- Weak grip
- Loss of coordination
- Falling
- Rapid deterioration
Prevention is essential.
Quarantine
New mantises should remain separately housed.
Monitor:
- Feeding
- Grip
- Coordination
- Moulting
- General condition
Individual housing makes quarantine straightforward.
Captive-Bred Animals
Captive-bred specimens should be preferred whenever available.
Advantages include:
- Known developmental stage
- Known feeding history
- Established captive husbandry
- Reduced collection pressure on wild populations
Responsible Sourcing
Before obtaining an African Twig Mantis, ask:
- Is it captive-bred?
- What instar is it?
- When did it last moult?
- What prey is it currently eating?
- Has it been sexed?
Legal Considerations
Regulations concerning exotic mantises vary between jurisdictions.
Restrictions may apply to:
- Possession
- Breeding
- Sale
- Transport
- Import
- Export
Always check current local requirements.
Never Release Captive Mantises
Never release:
- Adults
- Nymphs
- Oothecae
into the environment.
Non-native predatory insects can present ecological risks.
Common Husbandry Mistakes
Common mistakes include:
- Housing multiple mantises together
- Enclosures that are too short
- Poor overhead grip
- Poor ventilation
- Keeping the enclosure excessively wet
- Allowing complete dehydration
- Oversized prey
- Leaving crickets with a moulting mantis
- Handling during moulting
- Overfeeding
- Direct sunlight
- Uncontrolled heating
- Underestimating adult male flight
- Breeding without preparing for hatchlings
Are African Twig Mantises Suitable for Beginners?
They are generally suitable for:
beginner-to-intermediate keepers.
Their environmental requirements are comparatively manageable, particularly because they do not require extreme humidity.
However, the keeper still needs to understand:
- Live-food husbandry
- Individual housing
- Moulting requirements
- Hydration
- Strong ventilation
- Cannibalism
- Adult male flight
Why This Species Is Worth Keeping
The African Twig Mantis offers a very different style of camouflage from colourful flower mantises.
Its appeal comes from:
- Subtle cryptic colouration
- Extremely elongated shape
- Twig mimicry
- Slow deliberate movement
- Sudden predatory strikes
It demonstrates how effective camouflage does not need to be brightly coloured or elaborate.
Educational Value
Popa spurca provides excellent opportunities to observe:
- Twig mimicry
- Camouflage
- Ambush predation
- Raptorial feeding
- Swaying behaviour
- Sexual dimorphism
- Moulting
- Wing development
- Courtship
- Ootheca production
Responsible Ownership
Before obtaining an African Twig Mantis, ensure you can provide:
- Individual housing
- Reliable live prey
- A tall ventilated enclosure
- Secure overhead grip
- Moderate warmth
- Appropriate hydration
- Safe moulting clearance
- Secure indoor handling conditions
Anyone intending to breed must also prepare for potentially numerous nymphs.
Summary
The African Twig Mantis (Popa spurca) is a slender African praying mantis specialised for blending into dry branches and woody vegetation.
Its narrow body, brown and grey colouration, long limbs and extremely still behaviour allow it to resemble a twig remarkably effectively.
Successful husbandry requires individual housing, a tall and exceptionally well-ventilated enclosure, secure overhead grip, moderate warmth, low-to-moderate humidity, regular drinking opportunities and appropriately sized captive-bred live prey.
A temperature range of approximately 22–28°C, with around 24–26°C providing a useful routine target, works well for many individuals. Humidity around 40–60% is generally appropriate when combined with regular light misting and strong airflow.
This species should not be kept in permanently wet or stagnant conditions.
Young nymphs can begin on fruit flies before progressing onto larger flies, roaches, locusts and other suitable feeder insects.
Moulting is the most vulnerable stage of development. The enclosure must provide enough vertical space for the mantis to hang completely free, and live feeders should be removed whenever premoult is suspected.
African Twig Mantises should normally be housed individually because cannibalism can occur.
Adult males are slimmer and more capable fliers than females, so enclosure maintenance and handling should always take place indoors in a secure room.
Females produce protective egg cases called oothecae. Successful oothecae can produce numerous nymphs, so feeder cultures and rearing containers should be prepared before hatching.
With suitable ventilation, hydration, live prey and secure moulting space, Popa spurca is an excellent species for keepers interested in cryptic camouflage and classic ambush-predator behaviour.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
This care sheet provides general husbandry guidance and does not replace current species-specific research or applicable wildlife and import legislation.
African Twig Mantises are predatory insects and should normally be housed individually because cannibalism can occur.
Provide secure overhead grip and substantial unobstructed vertical space for moulting. Never handle or disturb a mantis while it is actively moulting or immediately afterwards.
This species generally benefits from strong ventilation and relatively moderate humidity rather than permanently wet, stagnant conditions.
Offer appropriately sized captive-bred live prey and remove potentially dangerous uneaten feeders whenever a moult is approaching.
Adult males can fly. Always carry out handling and enclosure maintenance indoors away from open windows and exterior doors.
Never release captive adults, nymphs or oothecae into the environment.
Always verify current regulations concerning possession, breeding, sale, transport, import and export in your jurisdiction.
Information correct at the date of publication.
reptilecommunity.com | Revised: August 2026