Budwing Mantis (Parasphendale affinis) Care Sheet
The Budwing Mantis (Parasphendale affinis) is a robust African praying mantis valued for its hardy nature, strong feeding response and striking defensive behaviour.
Compared with delicate flower-mimicking species, Budwing Mantises have a more traditional mantis appearance. Their colouration is usually made up of earthy brown, grey and tan tones that provide effective camouflage against bark, branches and dry vegetation.
One of the species’ most noticeable characteristics is the difference between adult males and females. Females are broad, powerful animals with comparatively short wings, while males are much slimmer and develop long functional wings that allow them to fly effectively.
Budwing Mantises are enthusiastic predators and readily accept a variety of captive-bred live insects. Their relatively forgiving environmental requirements can make them suitable for beginner-to-intermediate mantis keepers, although correct moulting space, individual housing and responsible live-food management remain essential.
Successful husbandry requires individual housing, a tall well-ventilated enclosure, secure overhead grip, moderate warmth and humidity, access to drinking droplets and appropriately sized live prey.
Quick Facts
Scientific name: Parasphendale affinis
Common name: Budwing Mantis
Order: Mantodea
Family: Miomantidae
Origin: East Africa
Adult female size: Approximately 6–7 cm
Adult male size: Approximately 5–6 cm
Diet: Carnivorous/insectivorous
Lifestyle: Arboreal ambush predator
Activity: Primarily diurnal
Housing: Individually
Temperature: Approximately 22–28°C
Humidity: Moderate, approximately 50–70% with good ventilation
Experience level: Beginner to intermediate
Handling: Occasional gentle handling possible
Flight: Adult males are capable fliers
Major requirements: Live prey, ventilation and safe moulting space
Natural Distribution
Parasphendale affinis originates from parts of:
East Africa.
Its natural habitat includes warm environments containing:
- Shrubs
- Bushland
- Dry vegetation
- Trees
- Grassland margins
- Insect-rich vegetation
Its mottled colouration provides effective camouflage against bark and dried plant material.
Appearance
Budwing Mantises generally possess:
- Long prothorax
- Triangular head
- Large compound eyes
- Powerful raptorial forelegs
- Brown or grey colouration
- Irregular mottled markings
- Long walking legs
Females become particularly robust as adults.
Colour
Common colour forms include:
- Light brown
- Dark brown
- Grey
- Tan
- Reddish brown
Some individuals may show subtle greenish tones.
Colour variation is normal.
Adult Size
Adult females generally reach approximately:
6–7 cm.
Adult males are typically around:
5–6 cm
and considerably slimmer.
Sexual Dimorphism
Sexual dimorphism is pronounced in adult Budwing Mantises.
Females are:
- Larger
- Broader
- Heavier
- More robust
- Short-winged
Males are:
- Slimmer
- Lighter
- Long-winged
- More mobile
- Capable of stronger flight
Why Are They Called Budwing Mantises?
Adult females possess comparatively short wings that do not cover the entire abdomen.
These reduced-looking wings are responsible for the common name:
Budwing Mantis.
Adult males, however, develop much longer functional wings.
Adult Females
Adult females have:
- Broad abdomen
- Heavy body
- Powerful raptorial forelegs
- Shorter wings
- Strong feeding response
They are impressive predators despite their moderate overall size.
Adult Males
Adult males are much slimmer.
They possess:
- Narrow abdomen
- Long functional wings
- Greater mobility
- Better flight ability
Additional escape precautions are necessary once a male becomes adult.
Sexing Nymphs
Nymphs can often be sexed by examining the underside of the abdomen.
Females generally show:
six visible abdominal segments
while males generally show:
eight.
Sexing becomes easier as the nymph grows.
Why Early Sexing Is Useful
Early sexing can help with:
- Breeding plans
- Monitoring development
- Preparing adult enclosures
- Managing different maturation rates
Males generally reach adulthood sooner than females.
Head and Eyes
Like other mantises, the Budwing Mantis possesses a highly mobile triangular head.
Its large compound eyes are excellent at detecting:
- Movement
- Prey
- Potential threats
Mantises rely heavily upon vision when hunting.
Raptorial Forelegs
The front legs are specialised:
raptorial forelegs.
They contain rows of spines that allow the mantis to seize and restrain struggling prey.
The strike itself is extremely rapid.
Hunting Behaviour
Budwing Mantises are:
ambush predators.
They commonly wait motionless until prey approaches.
A hungry individual may also stalk nearby insects before striking.
Feeding Response
This species generally has an:
excellent feeding response.
Healthy individuals commonly respond quickly to appropriately sized moving prey.
This makes feeding behaviour particularly interesting to observe.
Diet
Budwing Mantises require:
live invertebrate prey.
Suitable captive-bred feeders include:
- Fruit flies
- House flies
- Green bottle flies
- Blue bottle flies
- Feeder roaches
- Small locusts
- Crickets used carefully
A varied diet is preferable.
Hatchling Food
Young nymphs require tiny live prey.
Suitable feeders include:
- Drosophila melanogaster
- Drosophila hydei
Increase feeder size as the mantis grows.
Flies
Flies are excellent mantis feeders.
They:
- Remain active
- Move throughout the enclosure
- Trigger natural hunting
- Are easy for arboreal mantises to detect
Larger fly species can be introduced as the nymph develops.
Roaches
Appropriately sized captive-bred feeder roaches can provide useful dietary variety.
Avoid prey that is:
- Excessively large
- Heavily armoured
- Capable of injuring the mantis
Locusts
Small captive-bred locusts can be offered to larger nymphs and adults.
Choose individuals the mantis can overpower safely.
Crickets
Crickets can be used cautiously.
They should not remain loose in the enclosure indefinitely because they may:
- Bite the mantis
- Disturb a moulting individual
- Attack a freshly moulted mantis
- Hide in the enclosure
Remove uneaten crickets.
Mealworms
Mealworms may occasionally be accepted when presented where the mantis can detect them.
However, they are less naturally suited to an arboreal ambush predator because they tend to:
- Fall
- Hide
- Burrow
They should not automatically form the entire diet.
Wild-Caught Prey
Avoid wild insects from locations where they may have encountered:
- Pesticides
- Herbicides
- Parasites
- Pathogens
Captive-bred feeder insects are safer.
Vertebrate Prey
Budwing Mantises do not require vertebrate prey.
Do not offer:
- Mice
- Lizards
- Frogs
- Birds
A complete captive feeding programme can be provided with appropriately sized invertebrates.
Prey Size
Feed insects that the mantis can overpower comfortably.
Oversized prey can:
- Injure the mantis
- Cause stress
- Damage delicate limbs
Young nymphs require particularly small prey.
Feeding Frequency
Feeding frequency depends upon:
- Age
- Temperature
- Prey size
- Body condition
- Reproductive condition
Young growing nymphs generally require food more frequently than adults.
Abdomen Condition
The abdomen provides a useful feeding guide.
A relatively thin abdomen may indicate hunger.
A rounded, full abdomen suggests another meal is not immediately necessary.
Overfeeding
Budwing Mantises can be enthusiastic feeders.
Do not assume that willingness to attack prey means the animal requires constant feeding.
Excessive abdominal weight can increase:
- Physical strain
- Fall risk
- Reduced mobility
Premoult Fasting
Nymphs commonly stop eating before a moult.
This is normal.
When premoult is suspected:
- Remove uneaten prey
- Maintain appropriate hydration
- Avoid handling
- Minimise disturbance
Housing
Budwing Mantises should normally be housed:
individually.
Suitable enclosure types include:
- Tall acrylic mantis enclosures
- Mesh insect cages
- Well-ventilated terrariums
- Purpose-built mantis containers
Why Individual Housing Is Essential
Budwing Mantises are predators.
Cannibalism can occur between:
- Nymphs
- Juveniles
- Adults
- Breeding pairs
Individual housing is the safest routine approach.
Enclosure Size
A useful general rule is:
at least three times the mantis’ body length in height
and:
at least twice its body length in width.
For an adult female, approximately:
20 × 20 × 30 cm or larger
provides a useful starting point.
Vertical Space
Vertical space is more important than excessive floor area.
The enclosure must provide enough height for:
- Climbing
- Hunting
- Resting
- Moulting
Moulting Height
Mantises moult while hanging upside down.
The animal must be able to:
- Secure itself overhead.
- Hang completely free.
- Split the old exoskeleton.
- Pull itself downward.
- Extract its legs and forelegs.
- Extend fully.
- Remain suspended while hardening.
Insufficient height can cause serious or fatal moulting problems.
Clear Moulting Zone
Maintain unobstructed space beneath suitable roof areas.
Do not position dense decorations immediately beneath every potential moulting point.
The mantis must not collide with:
- Branches
- Plants
- Feeding dishes
- The floor
during emergence.
Roof Grip
The enclosure roof must provide reliable grip.
Suitable materials include:
- Fine plastic mesh
- Fabric insect mesh
- Safe textured surfaces
Smooth glass or acrylic alone is not adequate.
Metal Mesh
Avoid sharp or coarse metal mesh.
Mantis feet are delicate and can become:
- Trapped
- Worn
- Damaged
Use smooth insect-safe mesh wherever possible.
Ventilation
Good ventilation is essential.
The enclosure should provide regular air exchange without becoming excessively dry.
Suitable designs include:
- Mesh roof plus side ventilation
- Cross-ventilated acrylic enclosures
- Mesh cages
Cross-Ventilation
Cross-ventilation allows air to move through the enclosure rather than merely escaping through the roof.
It helps reduce:
- Stagnant air
- Persistent condensation
- Mould
- Bacterial growth
Temperature
A useful general range is approximately:
22–28°C.
Around:
24–26°C
provides a good routine target for many individuals.
Moderate nighttime cooling is acceptable.
Heating
Additional heating may be required in cooler homes.
Suitable options include:
- Heating the room
- Gentle external heating
- Thermostatically controlled equipment
Avoid intense uncontrolled heat sources.
Thermostat
Dedicated heat sources should ideally be regulated by:
a reliable thermostat.
Small insect enclosures can overheat surprisingly quickly.
Temperature Monitoring
Use a reliable thermometer to monitor enclosure conditions.
Do not rely entirely upon:
- Touch
- Guesswork
- General room temperature
Direct Sunlight
Never position a transparent mantis enclosure in direct sunlight.
Temperatures can rise to dangerous levels very quickly.
Humidity
Budwing Mantises generally do well with:
moderate humidity.
Approximately:
50–70% relative humidity
provides a useful general range.
Humidity and Ventilation
Do not create humidity by sealing the enclosure.
Correct husbandry requires:
moisture plus airflow.
The enclosure should not remain permanently wet or stagnant.
Misting
Light misting can provide:
- Drinking droplets
- Temporary increases in humidity
Frequency depends upon:
- Room humidity
- Temperature
- Ventilation
- Enclosure size
Drinking
Mantises commonly drink droplets from:
- Leaves
- Walls
- Mesh
- Branches
Misting therefore provides an important hydration opportunity.
Direct Spraying
Avoid forcefully spraying the mantis.
Use a fine mist directed primarily toward enclosure surfaces.
Water Bowls
A water bowl is generally unnecessary.
Hydration can be provided through:
- Drinking droplets
- Live prey
- Appropriate humidity
Open water may create unnecessary risk for small nymphs.
Substrate
Simple flooring is sufficient.
Suitable options include:
- Paper towel
- Plain paper
- Coco fibre
- Appropriate naturalistic substrate
Paper is particularly useful for straightforward maintenance.
Paper Flooring
Paper makes it easy to monitor:
- Droppings
- Feeder remains
- Mould
- General cleanliness
Replace it whenever soiled.
Furnishings
Useful furnishings include:
- Thin branches
- Cork bark
- Artificial foliage
- Pesticide-free live plants
Do not overcrowd the enclosure.
Branches
Provide branches at several angles.
Useful orientations include:
- Vertical
- Diagonal
- Horizontal
Ensure all branches are securely positioned.
Live Plants
Live plants can be used if they are:
- Pesticide free
- Safe
- Structurally suitable
- Appropriate for the enclosure conditions
Do not automatically assume recently purchased ornamental plants are safe for an insect enclosure.
Lighting
Provide a normal day/night cycle.
Approximately:
12 hours light and 12 hours dark
provides a practical general starting point.
UVB
Specialised UVB lighting is not generally considered essential for routine Budwing Mantis husbandry.
Any lighting used should not create excessive heat.
Activity
Budwing Mantises may spend considerable periods:
- Motionless
- Watching nearby movement
- Waiting for prey
When hungry, they can become noticeably more active.
Swaying
Gentle swaying while moving is normal mantis behaviour.
It may help imitate:
vegetation moving in the wind.
Defensive Behaviour
Budwing Mantises can produce impressive defensive displays.
A threatened animal may:
- Raise its body
- Lift the raptorial forelegs
- Spread the wings
- Turn toward the threat
- Strike
Adult females can appear particularly imposing.
Female Defensive Display
Adult females have comparatively short wings but can still use them as part of a defensive posture.
Their broad abdomen and powerful forelegs make the display especially noticeable.
Do not deliberately provoke defensive behaviour.
Handling
Occasional gentle handling is possible.
Handling should remain:
limited and voluntary.
Allow the mantis to walk onto your hand rather than grabbing it.
Never Grab the Mantis
Do not restrain the animal by its:
- Abdomen
- Thorax
- Legs
- Wings
Mantises are physically delicate despite their predatory strength.
Handling Area
Always handle:
- Indoors
- Away from open windows
- Away from exterior doors
- Away from fans
- Away from pets
Adult males can fly.
Jumping
Nymphs may jump unexpectedly.
Keep your hands close to a safe surface when transferring them.
Adult Male Flight
Adult males possess long functional wings and can fly effectively.
They may suddenly take flight when:
- Disturbed
- Warm
- Searching for females
Take additional precautions when opening a male’s enclosure.
Adult Female Flight
Adult females have comparatively reduced wings and are much less capable in flight.
However, they can still move quickly and should be handled in a secure area.
Defensive Strikes
A large female may strike defensively with her raptorial forelegs.
The spines may:
scratch or pinch the skin.
Budwing Mantises are not venomous.
Moulting
Moulting is the most vulnerable stage of development.
Correct enclosure design is essential from the beginning.
Premoult Signs
Possible signs include:
- Refusal of food
- Reduced movement
- Prolonged upside-down hanging
- Avoidance of prey
- Changes in body proportions
Remove live prey when a moult appears imminent.
During Moulting
Never:
- Handle the mantis
- Move the enclosure unnecessarily
- Add live prey
- Touch the old exoskeleton
- Spray directly onto the animal
A fall during moulting can be fatal.
Freshly Moulted Mantises
Immediately after moulting, the new exoskeleton is extremely soft.
The mantis may appear:
- Pale
- Weak
- Stretched
- Vulnerable
Leave it completely undisturbed.
Feeding After Moulting
Do not immediately introduce large or aggressive prey.
Wait until the mantis:
- Has hardened
- Can grip normally
- Has regained normal coordination
before resuming normal feeding.
Exuvia
The discarded old exoskeleton is called the:
exuvia.
It can normally be removed after the mantis has finished moulting and moved away.
Mismoults
Potential causes include:
- Insufficient enclosure height
- Poor overhead grip
- Dehydration
- Inappropriate humidity
- Physical obstruction
- Disturbance
- Falls
Prevention is far more effective than attempting to correct a severe mismoult.
Limb Damage
Young mantises may sometimes partially recover from minor limb damage during subsequent moults.
The amount of recovery depends upon:
- Severity
- Location
- Number of moults remaining
Adults cannot regenerate damage through further moulting.
Final Moult
The final moult produces the adult wings and mature body.
Sufficient space is particularly important during this stage.
Wing Expansion
After the final moult, the wings need time to:
- Expand
- Straighten
- Harden
Do not disturb the animal while this occurs.
Nymph Housing
Young nymphs require appropriately sized vertical enclosures.
Provide:
- Fine ventilation
- Secure roof grip
- Suitable warmth
- Moderate humidity
- Tiny live prey
- Moulting clearance
Increase enclosure size as the mantis develops.
Escape Prevention
Small nymphs can escape through surprisingly small openings.
Check:
- Ventilation holes
- Mesh size
- Door gaps
- Lid seams
carefully.
Growth
Budwing Mantises grow through a series of:
nymphal instars.
Each instar ends with a moult.
Growth rate depends upon:
- Temperature
- Feeding
- Sex
- Genetics
Male and Female Development
Males commonly mature before females.
This can create challenges for breeders attempting to synchronise adults.
Experienced breeders may manage development carefully through modest differences in temperature and feeding.
Never deliberately starve or dangerously cool an animal.
Social Housing
Budwing Mantises should generally be kept:
individually.
Communal housing carries a significant risk of cannibalism.
Cannibalism
Cannibalism can occur when:
- Individuals are hungry
- Animals differ in size
- Space is limited
- One animal is moulting
- Adults are introduced for breeding
Individual housing is the safest approach.
Breeding
Budwing Mantises can breed readily in captivity when mature animals are correctly introduced.
Breeding requires:
- Mature male
- Mature female
- Well-conditioned female
- Suitable breeding space
- Close observation
Female Maturity
Do not introduce a male immediately after the female reaches adulthood.
Allow her time to:
- Harden
- Feed
- Mature reproductively
Male Maturity
Adult males should also be allowed to mature after the final moult before breeding.
Preparing the Female
Feed the female well before introducing the male.
This may reduce, but cannot eliminate, the risk of sexual cannibalism.
Introducing the Male
Allow the male to approach:
from behind the female.
Avoid placing him directly in front of her.
Provide enough space for the male to retreat.
Courtship
The male may:
- Watch the female
- Approach slowly
- Pause repeatedly
- Move behind her
- Jump onto her back
Avoid unnecessary disturbance once courtship begins.
Sexual Cannibalism
Females can attack and consume males.
Cannibalism may occur:
- Before mating
- During mating
- After mating
Breeding introductions should therefore be monitored.
After Mating
Once mating has finished and the male has separated, remove him when safe.
Do not permanently house the pair together.
Ootheca
Females produce protective egg cases called:
oothecae.
These contain multiple developing eggs.
Ootheca Attachment
A female may attach an ootheca to:
- Branches
- Mesh
- Enclosure walls
- Decorations
Avoid removing a firmly attached ootheca unless necessary.
Ootheca Production
A healthy adult female may produce:
multiple oothecae
during her lifetime.
Not every ootheca is necessarily fertile.
Ootheca Incubation
Maintain fertile oothecae with:
- Appropriate warmth
- Moderate humidity
- Good ventilation
Do not keep them permanently wet.
Incubation Temperature
Approximately:
24–28°C
provides a useful general range.
Avoid overheating.
Incubation Humidity
Moderate humidity is appropriate.
Provide good airflow and light periodic misting where necessary.
Avoid soaking the ootheca.
Incubation Time
Oothecae commonly require approximately:
4–8 weeks
to hatch under warm conditions, although considerable variation can occur.
Do not discard a healthy ootheca solely because an estimated hatch date has passed.
Hatching
A successful ootheca can produce:
many nymphs.
The exact number varies considerably.
Prepare rearing equipment before hatching.
Preparing for Hatchlings
Have ready:
- Established fruit fly cultures
- Small rearing containers
- Fine ventilation
- Safe overhead grip
- Suitable warmth
- Appropriate humidity
Do not wait until nymphs emerge before arranging their food.
Hatchling Diet
Newly hatched nymphs can generally begin on:
small fruit flies.
Increase feeder size as the nymphs develop.
Nymph Cannibalism
Nymphs can cannibalise one another.
Risk increases with:
- Hunger
- Size differences
- Crowding
- Moulting
Separate individuals as soon as practical.
Population Planning
Breeding can produce substantial numbers of nymphs.
Before attempting it, ensure you have:
- Sufficient containers
- Large feeder cultures
- Adequate space
- Time for frequent maintenance
- Responsible homes for offspring
Lifespan
Lifespan varies according to:
- Sex
- Temperature
- Feeding
- Reproductive activity
- Genetics
Females generally live longer than males.
The complete life cycle commonly spans approximately:
one year, although individual variation is normal.
Health
Most captive health problems are associated with husbandry.
Potential issues include:
- Mismoults
- Dehydration
- Falls
- Feeder injuries
- Overheating
- Excessive moisture
- Poor ventilation
- Pesticide exposure
Warning Signs
Potential concerns include:
- Repeated falling
- Inability to grip
- Loss of coordination
- Severe limb deformity
- Failed moulting
- Persistent weakness
- Prolonged refusal of food unrelated to premoult
Hanging Upside Down
Hanging upside down is normal.
A mantis may be:
- Resting
- Hunting
- Preparing to moult
Do not disturb an animal simply because of this posture.
Cleaning
Routine maintenance should include:
- Removing dead feeders
- Removing prey remains
- Removing droppings
- Replacing dirty substrate
- Removing mould
Avoid major enclosure disturbance when premoult is suspected.
Prey Remains
Partially eaten prey can:
- Decay
- Encourage mould
- Attract mites
Remove remains regularly.
Mites
Mite populations can increase where there is:
- Excess food waste
- Excessive moisture
- Poor hygiene
Correct the environmental cause rather than using household insecticides.
Household Chemicals
Keep the enclosure away from:
- Fly sprays
- Flea treatments
- Ant killers
- Household insecticides
- Garden pesticides
These products can be rapidly fatal to captive mantises.
Aerosols
Avoid spraying near the enclosure:
- Air fresheners
- Cleaning aerosols
- Perfume
- Deodorising sprays
Ventilated insect enclosures allow airborne chemicals to enter easily.
Pesticide Exposure
Possible signs of poisoning include:
- Trembling
- Loss of coordination
- Weak grip
- Falling
- Rapid deterioration
Prevention is essential.
Quarantine
New mantises should remain separately housed.
Monitor:
- Feeding
- Grip
- Coordination
- Moulting
- General condition
Individual housing makes quarantine straightforward.
Captive-Bred Animals
Captive-bred animals should be preferred where available.
Advantages include:
- Known developmental stage
- Known feeding history
- Established captive husbandry
- Reduced collection pressure on wild populations
Responsible Sourcing
Before obtaining a Budwing Mantis, ask:
- Is it captive-bred?
- What instar is it?
- When did it last moult?
- What prey is it currently eating?
- Has it been sexed?
Legal Considerations
Regulations concerning exotic mantises vary by jurisdiction.
Restrictions may apply to:
- Possession
- Breeding
- Sale
- Transport
- Import
- Export
Always check the current rules applicable to your location.
Never Release Captive Mantises
Never release:
- Adults
- Nymphs
- Oothecae
into the environment.
Non-native predatory insects may create ecological risks and release may be illegal.
Common Husbandry Mistakes
Common mistakes include:
- Housing multiple mantises together
- Enclosures that are too short
- Poor overhead grip
- Insufficient ventilation
- Excessive humidity
- Complete dehydration
- Oversized prey
- Leaving crickets with a moulting mantis
- Handling during moulting
- Overfeeding
- Direct sunlight
- Uncontrolled heating
- Underestimating adult male flight
- Breeding without preparing for numerous hatchlings
Are Budwing Mantises Suitable for Beginners?
Generally:
yes, for a well-prepared beginner.
Their robust nature, strong feeding response and relatively straightforward environmental requirements make them more forgiving than many specialised flower mantises.
However, beginners must still understand:
- Live-food husbandry
- Individual housing
- Moulting requirements
- Ventilation
- Hydration
- Cannibalism
- Adult male flight
Educational Value
The Budwing Mantis provides excellent opportunities to observe:
- Ambush predation
- Raptorial feeding
- Sexual dimorphism
- Defensive displays
- Moulting
- Wing development
- Courtship
- Ootheca production
- Incomplete metamorphosis
The dramatic difference between the short-winged adult female and long-winged male is particularly interesting.
Responsible Ownership
Before obtaining a Budwing Mantis, ensure you can provide:
- Individual housing
- Reliable live prey
- A tall ventilated enclosure
- Secure overhead grip
- Appropriate warmth and humidity
- Safe moulting clearance
- Safe indoor handling conditions
Anyone planning to breed the species must additionally prepare for potentially numerous offspring.
Summary
The Budwing Mantis (Parasphendale affinis) is a robust East African praying mantis known for its strong feeding response, earthy camouflage and pronounced differences between adult males and females.
Females develop broad bodies and comparatively short wings, while males are slender with long functional wings and considerably greater flight ability.
Successful husbandry requires individual housing, a tall well-ventilated enclosure, secure overhead grip, moderate warmth and humidity, access to drinking droplets and appropriately sized captive-bred live prey.
A temperature range of approximately 22–28°C, with around 24–26°C providing a useful routine target, works well for many individuals. Moderate humidity of approximately 50–70% is suitable when combined with good ventilation.
Young nymphs can begin on fruit flies before progressing onto larger flies, roaches, locusts and other suitable invertebrate feeders.
Moulting is the most vulnerable stage of development. The enclosure must provide sufficient height for the mantis to hang completely free, and potentially dangerous feeders should be removed whenever premoult is suspected.
Budwing Mantises should be housed individually because cannibalism can occur. Breeding introductions require a well-fed female, mature male and close observation.
Females produce protective egg cases called oothecae, which can hatch into numerous nymphs. Suitable containers and established fruit fly cultures should therefore be prepared before hatching.
With appropriate live food, ventilation, hydration and safe moulting space, Parasphendale affinis is an attractive and comparatively manageable species for keepers wanting a robust medium-sized praying mantis.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
This care sheet provides general husbandry guidance and does not replace current species-specific research or applicable wildlife and import legislation.
Budwing Mantises are predatory insects and should normally be housed individually because cannibalism can occur.
Provide secure overhead grip and substantial unobstructed vertical space for moulting. Never handle or disturb a mantis while it is actively moulting or immediately afterwards.
Maintain moderate humidity together with good ventilation rather than permanently wet or stagnant conditions.
Offer appropriately sized captive-bred live prey and remove potentially dangerous uneaten feeders when a moult is approaching.
Adult males are capable fliers. Always carry out handling and enclosure maintenance indoors away from open windows and exterior doors.
Never release captive adults, nymphs or oothecae into the environment.
Always verify current regulations concerning possession, breeding, sale, transport, import and export in your jurisdiction.
Information correct at the date of publication.
reptilecommunity.com | Revised: August 2026