Cane Toad (Rhinella marina) Care Sheet
The Cane Toad is a large, robust and highly adaptable terrestrial amphibian native to Central and South America. Rhinella marina is renowned for its substantial adult size, powerful feeding response and prominent toxin-producing parotoid glands.
Although physically hardy compared with many amphibians, Cane Toads require spacious accommodation, appropriate temperatures, access to clean water, a varied diet and careful attention to hygiene.
They are also highly invasive outside their natural range and have become established in numerous countries following deliberate and accidental introductions.
QUICK REFERENCE
Scientific Name: Rhinella marina
Common Names: Cane Toad, Marine Toad
Family: Bufonidae
Origin: Central and South America, extending naturally into southern North America
Adult Size: Commonly approximately 10–15 cm, with exceptionally large individuals considerably exceeding this
Lifespan: Commonly 10–15+ years in captivity
Activity: Primarily nocturnal
Lifestyle: Terrestrial
Diet: Carnivorous / opportunistic predator
Care Level: Intermediate–Advanced
NATURAL HISTORY
Rhinella marina naturally occurs across a broad range of tropical and subtropical habitats in the Americas.
Habitats include:
- Tropical and subtropical forest
- Grassland
- Wetlands
- Agricultural areas
- River margins
- Gardens
- Disturbed habitats
Cane Toads are extremely adaptable and frequently occur around human habitation.
Adults are predominantly terrestrial and nocturnal, generally sheltering during daylight before emerging after dark to forage.
Their adaptability, broad diet and high reproductive output have allowed introduced populations to become established in numerous regions outside their natural range.
Cane Toads are now particularly well known as an invasive species in Australia, where their introduction has had significant ecological consequences.
TOXIN & SAFETY
Cane Toads possess large parotoid glands immediately behind the eyes.
These glands contain potent defensive secretions commonly referred to as bufotoxins.
The secretion may be released when the animal is:
- Threatened
- Roughly restrained
- Injured
- Attacked by another animal
The toxin is particularly dangerous if it enters:
- The mouth
- Eyes
- Nose
- Other mucous membranes
- Open wounds
The secretion should never be deliberately expressed from the glands.
Cane Toads should be kept away from dogs, cats and other animals that may bite, lick or attempt to consume them.
Importantly, toxicity is not restricted to adult toads. Eggs and tadpoles also contain toxins.
Good hygiene and sensible handling precautions are therefore essential when working with this species.
ENCLOSURE
Cane Toads are large, heavily built terrestrial amphibians and require substantial floor space.
For a single adult, approximately:
90 × 45 × 45 cm (36 × 18 × 18 in)
should be considered a practical minimum starting point.
Larger accommodation is strongly recommended, particularly for exceptionally large adults.
Floor area is considerably more important than excessive enclosure height.
The enclosure should provide:
- Deep usable substrate
- Multiple hiding places
- Open foraging areas
- A large water container
- Shaded areas
- Good ventilation
The enclosure must also be secure.
ENCLOSURE TYPE
Glass terrariums, appropriately ventilated vivariums and custom-built amphibian enclosures can all be suitable.
Ventilation should prevent excessively stagnant conditions while allowing appropriate humidity to be maintained.
The enclosure should have a secure lid or doors.
Cane Toads are strong animals capable of moving lightweight furnishings and pushing against inadequately secured enclosure components.
SUBSTRATE
A moisture-retentive naturalistic substrate is recommended.
Suitable materials include:
- Organic topsoil
- Coco fibre
- Amphibian-safe soil mixtures
- Leaf litter
- Sphagnum moss used selectively
A mixture of soil and coco-based material topped with leaf litter can work particularly well.
The substrate should be deep enough to permit natural digging and shallow burrowing behaviour.
Approximately:
8–15 cm (3–6 in)
is useful for adults where enclosure design permits.
Substrate should remain:
Slightly moist, but not saturated
Avoid:
- Gravel
- Calcium sand
- Fertilised soil
- Chemically treated substrate
- Sharp materials
- Cedar or other aromatic wood products
HIDES & FURNISHINGS
Provide several secure resting locations.
Suitable furnishings include:
- Cork bark
- Cork tubes
- Large pieces of wood
- Robust plants
- Artificial foliage
- Leaf litter
- Large stable rocks
- Purpose-made hides
Hides should be large enough for the entire animal to enter comfortably.
Cane Toads can be surprisingly powerful, so heavy furnishings must be positioned securely to prevent collapse or crushing injuries.
WATER
A large, shallow container of clean water must always be available.
The water container should allow the toad to:
- Enter easily
- Sit comfortably
- Submerge much of its body
- Leave without difficulty
The water should not be so deep that the animal has difficulty exiting.
Cane Toads frequently soak and may defecate in their water.
Water should therefore be checked daily and replaced whenever contaminated.
Use appropriately treated, amphibian-safe water.
TEMPERATURE
A useful general daytime temperature range is:
22–26°C (72–79°F)
A slightly warmer area of approximately:
26–28°C (79–82°F)
can be provided where necessary.
Night
Temperatures may fall moderately overnight.
Approximately:
18–22°C (64–72°F)
is generally suitable.
Cane Toads are adaptable, but prolonged exposure to inappropriate temperatures should still be avoided.
Any artificial heating equipment should be controlled using an appropriate thermostat.
HUMIDITY
Cane Toads require access to moisture but should not be maintained in permanently saturated conditions.
A useful general relative humidity range is approximately:
60–80%
with natural fluctuations.
The substrate should remain slightly moist while allowing the upper surface to partially dry between misting where appropriate.
Good ventilation remains important.
The objective is to provide:
Moist substrate + fresh air + constant access to clean water
rather than a permanently wet enclosure.
LIGHTING
Cane Toads are primarily nocturnal.
Provide a consistent day/night cycle of approximately:
10–12 hours of light
per day.
Moderate LED lighting can be used for general illumination and live plant growth.
Brightly illuminated areas should be balanced with substantial shaded cover.
UVB
Low-level UVB can be provided as part of high-quality captive husbandry.
A gentle Ferguson Zone 1-type exposure is appropriate.
Aim for approximately:
UVI 0.5–1.0 in exposed accessible areas
while ensuring:
UVI 0 is available beneath cover
The toad must always be able to regulate its exposure.
Actual UV levels depend upon:
- Lamp type
- Reflector
- Distance
- Mesh
- Enclosure height
- Plant cover
- Furnishings
Where possible, exposure should be confirmed using an appropriate UV Index meter.
DIET
Cane Toads are extremely opportunistic feeders.
Wild individuals consume an exceptionally broad range of prey, including insects and other invertebrates, small vertebrates and carrion.
Captive animals should receive a varied diet based primarily around nutritionally appropriate invertebrates.
Suitable foods include:
- Earthworms
- Locusts
- Crickets
- Cockroaches
- Appropriate larvae
- Other suitable cultured invertebrates
Earthworms are particularly useful as part of a varied diet.
Cane Toads readily become conditioned to feeding and may attempt to consume almost anything presented to them.
Their willingness to eat does not mean that every food item is appropriate.
VERTEBRATE PREY
Large Cane Toads are physically capable of consuming small vertebrates.
However, rodents and other vertebrate prey are unnecessary as a routine component of captive husbandry.
A varied invertebrate-based diet is preferable for normal maintenance.
Regular feeding of calorie-dense vertebrate prey may contribute to excessive weight gain.
PREY SIZE
Offer appropriately sized prey.
Although Cane Toads have large mouths and powerful feeding responses, excessively large prey should be avoided.
Prey should be easily:
- Captured
- Swallowed
- Digested
Wild-caught insects should generally be avoided because of possible exposure to:
- Pesticides
- Parasites
- Herbicides
- Environmental contaminants
FEEDING FREQUENCY
Feeding frequency depends upon:
- Age
- Size
- Temperature
- Activity
- Body condition
- Prey size
Juveniles
Growing juveniles can be offered appropriately sized food:
Daily or near-daily
with quantities adjusted according to growth and body condition.
Adults
Adults generally require feeding:
Approximately 2–3 times per week
depending upon the size and nutritional value of prey offered.
Cane Toads are extremely food motivated and can become obese.
Do not use appetite alone to determine feeding quantity.
SUPPLEMENTATION
Cultured feeder insects should be appropriately gut-loaded.
A suitable supplementation programme should provide:
- Calcium
- Vitamin D3 where appropriate
- Vitamin A
- Other essential vitamins and minerals
Supplementation requirements depend upon:
- Age
- Diet
- UVB provision
- Feeding frequency
- Reproductive status
- Supplement formulation
Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for the supplement being used.
VITAMIN A
Vitamin A deserves particular consideration in captive amphibian nutrition.
Deficiency may contribute to abnormalities involving:
- Feeding
- Eyes
- Skin
- Growth
- Reproduction
- Normal epithelial function
A reputable amphibian supplementation programme should therefore provide an appropriate source of vitamin A.
Plain calcium alone is not a complete supplementation programme.
BODY CONDITION
Obesity is an important husbandry concern with Cane Toads.
Their natural feeding strategy encourages them to exploit food whenever it becomes available.
In captivity, unlimited food combined with reduced activity can rapidly result in excessive body condition.
Monitor:
- Overall body shape
- Mobility
- Weight
- Feeding frequency
and adjust food quantity where necessary.
SOCIAL HOUSING
Cane Toads may sometimes tolerate similarly sized individuals, but group housing requires considerably more space and careful observation.
Animals should be similar in size.
Significant size differences increase the risk of:
- Competition
- Stress
- Injury
- Cannibalism
Any animal sufficiently small to swallow may potentially be viewed as prey.
Individual housing provides the greatest control over feeding, health monitoring and hygiene.
HANDLING
Routine handling is not recommended.
There are two important reasons:
- Amphibian skin is delicate and highly permeable.
- Cane Toads possess potent defensive toxins.
When handling is genuinely necessary, clean powder-free nitrile gloves are recommended.
Gloves should be moistened with clean amphibian-safe water before contact.
Avoid touching:
- Your face
- Eyes
- Mouth
- Food
- Other animals
while handling or maintaining the enclosure.
Hands should be washed thoroughly afterwards.
Children should not handle Cane Toads unsupervised.
TOXIN EXPOSURE
If toxin contacts the skin, the affected area should be thoroughly washed.
If secretion enters the:
- Eyes
- Mouth
- Nose
- Open wound
the affected area should be rinsed thoroughly and appropriate medical advice sought.
If a dog, cat or other pet mouths or bites a Cane Toad, urgent veterinary advice should be sought.
Do not deliberately manipulate or squeeze the parotoid glands.
BEHAVIOUR
Cane Toads are predominantly nocturnal.
During daylight they commonly remain:
- Beneath cover
- Partially buried
- Inside hides
- Among dense vegetation
Activity generally increases after dark.
Captive individuals often become extremely responsive to feeding activity and may approach the front of the enclosure when they associate movement with food.
This should not be interpreted as a need for handling.
BREEDING
Cane Toads reproduce aquatically.
Males call to attract females and breeding occurs in water.
Females are capable of producing many thousands of eggs.
Eggs are characteristically deposited in long gelatinous strings rather than compact floating masses.
The eggs hatch into aquatic tadpoles before undergoing metamorphosis into terrestrial toadlets.
Because Cane Toads are invasive in many parts of the world, captive breeding should only occur where completely lawful and where secure long-term accommodation for offspring is available.
Local legislation must always be checked before breeding.
ENRICHMENT
Environmental complexity encourages natural behaviour.
Useful enrichment includes:
- Deep substrate
- Leaf litter
- Multiple hides
- Cork bark
- Plants
- Visual barriers
- Variable substrate depth
- Different moisture levels
- Varied appropriate prey
The enclosure should allow the animal to choose between:
- Exposed and sheltered areas
- Moist and relatively drier locations
- Warmer and cooler areas
- Different resting positions
CLEANING & MAINTENANCE
Regular maintenance should include:
- Removing faeces
- Removing uneaten prey
- Replacing contaminated water
- Removing decomposing organic material
- Checking substrate condition
- Cleaning the water container
- Inspecting furnishings
- Checking enclosure security
Water bowls often require particularly frequent cleaning because Cane Toads commonly defecate while soaking.
Cleaning products must be amphibian-safe and thoroughly removed before the animal is returned.
Never allow detergents or household cleaning chemicals to contaminate the enclosure.
BIOSECURITY
Equipment should ideally not be shared between unrelated amphibian enclosures.
Where equipment must be reused, it should be appropriately cleaned and disinfected.
Wash hands before and after enclosure maintenance.
Never release:
- Cane Toads
- Tadpoles
- Eggs
- Contaminated water
- Biological material
into the natural environment.
This is particularly important because Rhinella marina has demonstrated an exceptional ability to establish invasive populations outside its natural range.
QUARANTINE
New amphibians should undergo an appropriate quarantine period before entering an established collection.
Monitor for:
- Appetite
- Body condition
- Abnormal faeces
- Skin abnormalities
- Parasites
- Unusual behaviour
- Weight loss
- Signs of infectious disease
Separate equipment should ideally be used for animals undergoing quarantine.
HEALTH
Potential health problems include:
- Bacterial infections
- Fungal infections
- Parasitic disease
- Nutritional deficiencies
- Metabolic bone disease
- Obesity
- Trauma
- Skin damage
Warning signs include:
- Persistent refusal to feed
- Unexplained weight loss
- Weakness
- Abnormal posture
- Skin lesions
- Redness
- Swelling
- Difficulty moving
- Unusual shedding
- Persistent abnormal behaviour
Any persistent or serious health concern should be assessed by a suitably experienced exotic or amphibian veterinarian.
LONG-TERM CONSIDERATIONS
Cane Toads should not be acquired simply because they are regarded as hardy amphibians.
Potential keepers must consider:
- Large adult size
- Long lifespan
- Strong feeding response
- Potential obesity
- Toxin production
- Large water container requirements
- Regular cleaning
- Veterinary access
- Secure containment
- Local legislation
A small juvenile can develop into a substantial and extremely powerful adult toad.
The enclosure and long-term care plan should therefore be designed around the expected adult, rather than the size of the animal at acquisition.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
This care sheet provides general husbandry guidance and does not replace species-specific research, veterinary advice or applicable legal requirements. Individual requirements may vary.
Cane Toads (Rhinella marina) possess potent defensive toxins produced primarily by their enlarged parotoid glands. Eggs and tadpoles are also toxic. Appropriate precautions should be taken when keeping, handling or maintaining this species.
The Cane Toad has become a serious invasive species in numerous parts of the world. Local legislation should always be checked before acquiring, keeping, transporting or breeding this species.
Never release a Cane Toad, tadpole, egg or associated biological material into the environment.
If you have concerns about an animal’s health or care, consult a suitably experienced exotic or amphibian veterinarian.
Information correct at the date of publication.
ReptileCommunity.com | Revised: August 2026