Carpet Python (Morelia spilota) Care Sheet
Quick Facts
Common Name: Carpet Python
Scientific Name: Morelia spilota
Family: Pythonidae
Native Range: Australia, New Guinea and surrounding regions depending on form/locality
Adult Size: Commonly approximately 1.5–2.5 m (5–8 ft), with substantial variation
Lifespan: Commonly 20–30+ years with appropriate care
Activity: Primarily crepuscular/nocturnal, with daytime basking also observed
Lifestyle: Semi-arboreal
Diet: Carnivorous
Reproduction: Oviparous (egg-laying)
Venomous: No
Housing: Individually
Experience Level: Intermediate
Introduction
The Carpet Python (Morelia spilota) is a large, adaptable python native to Australia and parts of the New Guinea region.
Carpet Pythons are popular in captivity because of their:
- Attractive colouration and patterns
- Active behaviour
- Strong feeding response
- Climbing ability
- Wide variety of naturally occurring forms
- Long lifespan
They are generally more active and arboreal than many other commonly kept pythons.
A well-designed enclosure should therefore provide both:
Generous horizontal space and substantial climbing opportunities.
Carpet Pythons should not be treated as snakes that simply require a branch inside a small enclosure.
Carpet Python Diversity
Morelia spilota is extremely variable across its range.
Names commonly encountered within the reptile hobby include:
- Jungle Carpet Python
- Coastal Carpet Python
- Darwin Carpet Python
- Inland Carpet Python
- Diamond Python
- Irian Jaya / Papuan Carpet Python
- Northwestern Carpet Python
Taxonomy and locality terminology have changed over time, and different sources do not always treat all populations identically.
This care sheet therefore provides general husbandry guidance for Carpet Pythons.
Where the exact form or locality is known, its natural history should also be considered.
Commonly Recognised Forms
Names commonly associated with the Morelia spilota complex include:
Jungle Carpet Python
Morelia spilota cheynei
Coastal Carpet Python
Morelia spilota mcdowelli
Darwin / Northwestern Carpet Python
Morelia spilota variegata
Inland Carpet Python
Morelia spilota metcalfei
Diamond Python
Morelia spilota spilota
Other geographic forms and captive crosses are also encountered.
Locality & Hybrid Animals
Many captive Carpet Pythons have been selectively bred for:
- Colour
- Pattern
- Morphs
and some captive animals have ancestry from more than one Carpet Python form.
An animal should not be represented as a pure locality or subspecies unless its ancestry is reliably known.
Natural Range
Carpet Pythons occur across a very large geographic area.
Depending upon form, they occur across:
- Australia
- New Guinea
- Nearby islands
Their broad distribution helps explain the substantial differences seen between populations.
Natural Habitat
Carpet Pythons inhabit an enormous variety of environments including:
- Tropical forest
- Woodland
- Savannah woodland
- Rocky areas
- Forest margins
- Coastal regions
- Agricultural areas
- Human-modified environments
They are highly adaptable snakes.
Semi-Arboreal Behaviour
Carpet Pythons are capable climbers and regularly use elevated locations.
They may climb:
- Trees
- Shrubs
- Rock faces
- Buildings
- Hollow trunks
However, they also spend substantial time on the ground.
They should therefore be considered:
Semi-arboreal rather than exclusively arboreal.
Size
Adult size varies substantially.
Many Carpet Pythons reach approximately:
1.5–2.5 m (5–8 ft).
Some forms and individuals can become larger.
Coastal Carpet Pythons in particular can become substantial animals.
Adult size should always be considered when choosing an enclosure.
Lifespan
Carpet Pythons are long-lived.
With appropriate care, a lifespan of:
20–30+ years
is possible.
This should be considered before acquiring one.
Housing
Carpet Pythons should normally be:
Housed individually.
They do not require companionship.
Routine cohabitation can make it difficult to monitor:
- Feeding
- Body condition
- Faeces
- Health
- Reproductive behaviour
and can introduce unnecessary competition or feeding risks.
Enclosure Size
Enclosure size should be based upon the size of the individual snake.
For an average adult, approximately:
150 × 60 × 90 cm
provides a useful practical starting point.
Large adults should receive larger accommodation.
An enclosure around:
180 × 60–90 × 90–120 cm
or larger can provide substantially more usable space for a large Carpet Python.
Horizontal Space Matters
Carpet Pythons are often given tall enclosures because they climb.
Height is valuable, but:
Vertical space should not replace adequate enclosure length.
The snake should have sufficient horizontal space to:
- Extend its body
- Move freely
- Explore
- Thermoregulate
Vertical Space
Height should be used constructively.
Provide:
- Strong branches
- Elevated shelves
- Platforms
- Elevated hides
- Multiple climbing routes
A tall empty enclosure provides little benefit.
Enclosure Security
Carpet Pythons are:
- Strong
- Active
- Skilled climbers
The enclosure must be extremely secure.
Check:
- Door locks
- Sliding doors
- Cable holes
- Ventilation openings
- Roof panels
Large Carpet Pythons can push surprisingly hard against unsecured doors.
Climbing Structure
Provide substantial climbing opportunities.
Suitable structures include:
- Thick natural branches
- Cork branches
- Secure wooden perches
- Elevated shelves
- Platforms
All structures must be capable of supporting the snake’s full weight.
Branch Diameter
Provide branches of different diameters.
Large Carpet Pythons require much stronger branches than small juveniles.
Branches should be:
Firmly secured to the enclosure.
A loose branch can injure the snake or damage heating equipment.
Elevated Resting Areas
Carpet Pythons often choose elevated resting locations.
Provide stable:
- Shelves
- Branch junctions
- Elevated hides
where the snake can rest securely.
Hides
Provide at least:
One secure hide in the warm region
and:
One secure hide in the cooler region.
Additional elevated hides can be extremely useful.
The snake should not have to choose between:
Security and temperature.
Humid Hide
A humid hide can be particularly useful during shedding.
It can contain:
- Damp sphagnum moss
- Moist coco fibre
- Other suitable moisture-retaining substrate
The material should be:
Damp rather than saturated.
Temperature
Temperature requirements vary somewhat between Carpet Python forms.
For many commonly maintained Carpet Pythons, a useful general daytime gradient is:
Warm area: approximately 27–29°C
Local basking/warm surface: approximately 30–32°C
Cool area: approximately 22–25°C
The snake must always be able to move away from the heat.
Avoid Excessive Heat
There is no need to maintain the entire upper enclosure at extremely high temperatures.
A Carpet Python requires:
A usable thermal gradient, not a uniformly hot enclosure.
Overheating can be dangerous.
Basking
A localised warm area around:
30–32°C
provides an appropriate general target for many Carpet Pythons.
Individual forms may differ.
The animal should have access to:
- Warmth
- Intermediate temperatures
- Cooler areas
at all times.
Night Temperature
A nighttime temperature reduction is appropriate.
Approximately:
20–23°C
works well for many Carpet Pythons.
Exact requirements may vary with locality and season.
Heating
Overhead heating works particularly well for semi-arboreal Carpet Pythons.
Suitable heat sources can include:
- Halogen flood lamps
- Appropriate basking lamps
- Deep heat projectors
- Ceramic heat emitters where nighttime heating is required
Heat Mats
Heat mats are not generally ideal as the sole heat source for a large semi-arboreal enclosure.
They primarily heat a limited surface area and do little to create useful elevated thermal zones.
If used for supplementary heating, they must be appropriately installed and thermostatically controlled.
Thermostats
All powered heating equipment capable of producing unsafe temperatures should be controlled using an appropriate thermostat.
Correct thermostat type depends upon the heat source.
The thermostat probe must be:
- Correctly positioned
- Securely fixed
Heating Safety
Carpet Pythons can climb directly onto heating equipment.
Any internal:
- Bulb
- Ceramic heater
- Heating element
must be securely guarded.
Thermal burns can be severe.
Measuring Temperature
Use reliable:
Digital thermometers
to measure ambient temperatures.
An:
Infrared thermometer
is useful for checking basking surfaces.
Measure actual enclosure conditions rather than relying only upon thermostat settings.
Lighting
Provide a clear day/night cycle.
Approximately:
10–12 hours of daylight
is appropriate for general maintenance.
Seasonal adjustment can be used where desired.
All visible lighting should be switched off at night.
UVB
Artificial UVB is not considered essential for successfully maintaining Carpet Pythons fed an appropriate whole-prey diet.
Carpet Pythons have been maintained and bred successfully in captivity without dedicated UVB lighting.
UVB should therefore not be presented as compulsory equipment.
Optional UVB
Low-level UVB can nevertheless be provided as an optional component of a well-designed enclosure.
If UVB is provided:
- Use an appropriate low-level source
- Provide substantial shaded areas
- Provide secure opaque hides
- Ensure the snake can completely avoid exposure
- Consider the distance between the lamp and animal
- Consider any mesh between the lamp and enclosure
The aim is to provide:
Choice rather than compulsory exposure.
UVB Percentages
Do not simply prescribe a lamp because it is labelled:
- 5%
- 6%
- 7%
The actual exposure received depends upon:
- Lamp model
- Reflector
- Distance
- Mesh
- Installation
- Lamp age
Because Carpet Python forms occupy different habitats, one universal UVB figure should not be applied indiscriminately to every animal.
Visible Lighting
Bright daytime illumination can help establish a clear circadian cycle.
LED lighting can also:
- Illuminate the enclosure
- Support live plants
- Encourage natural daytime activity
Provide shaded areas regardless of the lighting system used.
Humidity
For many Carpet Pythons, approximately:
50–60% relative humidity
provides a useful general target.
Temporary increases around shedding can be beneficial.
Exact requirements vary somewhat according to:
- Form/locality
- Temperature
- Ventilation
- Individual animal
Humidity Is Dynamic
Humidity does not need to remain at one exact percentage continuously.
Natural environments experience changes throughout the:
- Day
- Night
- Weather cycle
The enclosure should provide appropriate moisture without remaining permanently saturated.
Misting
Routine daily misting is not automatically required.
Whether misting is necessary depends upon actual enclosure humidity.
If humidity is already appropriate:
Do not spray simply because a schedule says to.
If misting is used, the enclosure should be allowed to dry appropriately afterward.
Foggers
Foggers are:
Not a requirement for Carpet Python husbandry.
They should not be recommended as a routine solution for maintaining humidity.
Correct humidity can usually be achieved through:
- Appropriate substrate
- Water availability
- Ventilation management
- Room conditions
- Occasional misting where genuinely necessary
Ventilation
Good ventilation is essential.
Avoid combining:
High humidity + high temperature + stagnant air.
The enclosure should have adequate airflow.
Shedding Humidity
During shedding, provide access to a:
Humid hide.
A modest temporary humidity increase may also help.
There is usually no need to saturate the entire enclosure.
Water
Fresh drinking water must always be available.
Provide a:
- Large
- Stable
- Clean
water bowl.
The bowl should be large enough for the snake to drink comfortably.
Soaking
Some Carpet Pythons may occasionally soak.
Persistent soaking should prompt investigation of:
- Excessive heat
- Dehydration
- Mites
- Skin irritation
- Other health problems
Water Hygiene
Replace water:
Regularly and immediately whenever contaminated.
Large snakes can rapidly contaminate water bowls with:
- Substrate
- Faeces
- Urates
The bowl should be thoroughly cleaned when necessary.
Substrate
Suitable substrates can include:
- Coco husk
- Cypress mulch
- Organic topsoil mixtures
- Appropriate forest-floor substrates
- Bioactive soil mixtures
Some keepers also successfully use aspen under appropriately dry conditions.
Substrate Depth
Provide enough substrate to allow:
- Exploration
- Partial burrowing
- Moisture gradients
Approximately:
5–10 cm
works well for many enclosures.
Deeper substrate can be used in naturalistic setups.
Substrate Moisture
Substrate does not need to remain constantly wet.
A useful system can contain:
- Predominantly dry surface areas
- Slightly moist lower layers
- A dedicated humid hide
Avoid waterlogged substrate.
Enrichment
Carpet Pythons are active snakes and benefit substantially from environmental complexity.
Provide:
- Climbing branches
- Elevated shelves
- Cork
- Plants
- Visual barriers
- Multiple hides
- Different textures
- Multiple routes around the enclosure
Environmental Choice
A well-designed enclosure allows the snake to choose between:
- Warm and cool
- High and low
- Exposed and hidden
- Dry and humid
- Ground and elevated resting positions
Providing these choices is central to good husbandry.
Feeding
Carpet Pythons are carnivorous.
Appropriately sized whole prey should form the captive diet.
Suitable prey can include:
- Mice
- Rats
- Appropriate poultry items where desired
Rodents provide a practical staple diet.
Whole Prey
Whole prey provides:
- Muscle
- Bone
- Organs
- Fat
- Vitamins
- Minerals
Healthy Carpet Pythons consuming appropriate whole prey do not normally require routine calcium or vitamin supplementation.
Frozen-Thawed Prey
Frozen-thawed prey is generally preferable to live rodents.
Live rodents can:
- Bite
- Scratch
- Seriously injure
a snake.
Prey should be completely thawed before feeding.
Prey Size
Choose prey according to:
- Snake size
- Age
- Body condition
- Individual metabolism
Extremely large meals are unnecessary.
A modest temporary swelling after feeding is sufficient.
Juvenile Feeding
Young Carpet Pythons can generally be offered appropriately sized prey approximately:
Every 7–10 days.
Adjust according to:
- Growth
- Prey size
- Body condition
Adult Feeding
Healthy adults can commonly be fed approximately:
Every 10–14 days
or less frequently depending upon prey size and body condition.
Large adults do not need to be constantly fed simply because they show a strong feeding response.
Strong Feeding Response
Carpet Pythons are well known for having a powerful feeding response.
This should be managed through:
- Predictable routines
- Feeding tongs
- Calm enclosure access
- Avoiding food scent on hands
A strong feeding response does not mean the snake is aggressive.
Feeding Tongs
Use appropriately long feeding tongs for prey presentation.
This:
- Keeps hands away from the strike zone
- Helps distinguish feeding from routine enclosure maintenance
- Allows controlled prey presentation
Target or Tap Training
Some keepers use consistent:
- Target training
- Tap training
- Enclosure-opening routines
to help distinguish feeding from handling or maintenance.
This can be particularly useful with large, food-motivated Carpet Pythons.
Feeding in the Enclosure
There is normally no need to move a Carpet Python into a separate feeding container.
Feeding in the home enclosure avoids unnecessary:
- Handling
- Stress
- Post-feeding movement
Obesity
Carpet Pythons can become overweight.
This is particularly common when large adults are fed too frequently.
A healthy Carpet Python should appear:
Strong and muscular rather than excessively rounded.
Body Condition
Monitor:
- Spine
- Muscle tone
- Tail base
- Overall body shape
The spine should not be sharply prominent, but the snake should not resemble an overfilled cylinder.
Handling
Many Carpet Pythons become manageable with calm, appropriate interaction.
Juveniles can sometimes be:
- Nervous
- Defensive
- Quick to strike
This often improves as they mature.
Safe Handling
Support the body at multiple points.
Allow the snake to grip and move naturally.
Never:
- Pull it from a branch forcefully
- Grab the head unnecessarily
- Allow a large snake to hang unsupported
Large Adult Safety
Large Carpet Pythons are powerful constrictors.
Keepers should use sensible precautions when handling substantial adults.
Children should never handle a large python unsupervised.
Do not place large constricting snakes around the:
Neck or face.
Handling After Feeding
Avoid unnecessary handling for approximately:
48 hours after feeding.
Larger meals may justify a longer period.
Defensive Juveniles
A defensive juvenile may:
- Strike
- Hiss
- Retreat
- Adopt an S-shaped posture
Do not punish defensive behaviour.
Instead review:
- Security
- Cover
- Handling technique
- Enclosure placement
Shedding
Before shedding, the snake may become:
- Dull
- Secretive
- Less interested in food
The eyes usually become cloudy blue-grey.
This is commonly called:
Being “in blue”.
During Shed
During the shedding cycle:
- Ensure fresh water is available
- Check humidity
- Provide a humid hide
- Minimise unnecessary handling
Retained Shed
After shedding, check:
- Eye caps
- Tail tip
- Head
Repeated incomplete sheds can indicate problems with:
- Hydration
- Humidity
- General health
Quarantine
Every new Carpet Python should undergo appropriate quarantine before entering an established collection.
During quarantine:
- House separately
- Use dedicated equipment where practical
- Record body weight
- Monitor feeding
- Observe faeces
- Check shedding
- Inspect for mites
- Monitor breathing
Collection Biosecurity
Good biosecurity is particularly important when keeping multiple pythons or boas.
New animals should not immediately share:
- Enclosures
- Water bowls
- Feeding equipment
- Handling equipment
with established animals.
Wash hands and disinfect appropriate equipment between animals.
Snake Mites
Snake mites can spread rapidly through reptile collections.
Look for tiny dark parasites around:
- Eyes
- Jaw
- Vent
- Beneath scales
Persistent soaking can sometimes accompany mite infestation.
Respiratory Disease
Possible signs include:
- Wheezing
- Clicking
- Excess mucus
- Open-mouth breathing
- Bubbles around the nostrils or mouth
Respiratory symptoms require veterinary assessment.
Review:
- Temperature
- Humidity
- Ventilation
- Stress
Inclusion Body Disease & Serious Viral Disease
Boas and pythons can be affected by serious infectious diseases, including viruses associated with neurological and systemic illness.
This is one reason why:
Quarantine and collection biosecurity are essential.
Abnormal neurological signs should never simply be assumed to be behavioural.
Neurological Signs
Seek veterinary assessment for signs such as:
- Loss of coordination
- Persistent head tilting
- Abnormal twisting
- Tremors
- Inability to right normally
- Unusual repetitive movements
Regurgitation
Possible causes include:
- Oversized prey
- Incorrect temperatures
- Handling too soon after feeding
- Stress
- Gastrointestinal disease
Repeated regurgitation requires veterinary investigation.
Mouth Disease
Signs can include:
- Swelling
- Redness
- Discharge
- Abnormal tissue
- Difficulty feeding
Veterinary assessment is required.
Thermal Burns
Large climbing snakes are particularly capable of contacting poorly protected heating equipment.
Burns can occur from:
- Unguarded bulbs
- Ceramic heaters
- Malfunctioning thermostats
- Excessively hot surfaces
Prevention is far preferable to treatment.
Sexing
Carpet Pythons can be sexed using specialist methods including:
- Probing
- Popping in suitable young animals
- Imaging
- Reproductive history
These procedures should only be performed by experienced individuals.
Incorrect probing can seriously injure a snake.
Sexual Maturity
Sexual maturity depends upon:
- Age
- Size
- Sex
- Body condition
Animals should not be bred merely because they are technically capable of reproduction.
Females in particular should be sufficiently mature and well conditioned before breeding.
Breeding
Carpet Python breeding is often stimulated by seasonal environmental changes.
Breeders may manipulate:
- Photoperiod
- Night temperatures
- Daytime heating periods
to mimic seasonal cycles.
Exact breeding protocols vary between Carpet Python forms.
Preparing for Breeding
Only healthy animals in appropriate body condition should be bred.
Before pairing:
- Confirm sex
- Review body condition
- Check feeding history
- Ensure animals are healthy
- Consider genetic/locality background
Pairing
Animals should be introduced deliberately for breeding rather than permanently cohabited.
Observe interactions.
Males may become particularly active during the breeding season.
Courtship
Courtship can involve:
- Close following
- Body alignment
- Tail positioning
- Spur use by the male
- Copulation
Pelvic spurs play a role in courtship in pythons.
Ovulation
A developing female may show a pronounced mid-body swelling around ovulation.
After ovulation, females commonly undergo a:
Pre-lay shed.
Pre-Lay Shed
The pre-lay shed is an important reproductive marker.
Egg deposition commonly follows several weeks later.
The exact interval varies.
Nesting
A gravid female should have access to an appropriate secure nesting site.
Provide:
- Privacy
- Suitable temperature
- Appropriate humidity
The nesting area should be large enough for the female to coil comfortably.
Egg Laying
Carpet Pythons are:
Oviparous.
Clutch size varies substantially according to:
- Form
- Female size
- Age
- Condition
A clutch may contain approximately:
10–30 eggs
although smaller and substantially larger clutches can occur.
Maternal Incubation
Female Carpet Pythons are capable of:
Maternal egg incubation.
A female may coil around the clutch and regulate its temperature behaviourally.
In captivity, many breeders instead remove the eggs for artificial incubation.
Artificial Incubation
Carpet Python eggs are commonly artificially incubated at approximately:
30–31°C.
Temperatures should remain stable.
Avoid overheating.
Incubation Medium
Suitable incubation media include:
- Vermiculite
- Perlite
- Commercial reptile incubation media
The medium should maintain high humidity around the eggs without leaving them sitting in free water.
Egg Position
Avoid unnecessarily rotating developing eggs.
If eggs are naturally adhered together:
Do not forcibly separate them unless there is a compelling reason.
Incubation Duration
Carpet Python eggs commonly hatch after approximately:
50–60 days
depending upon temperature and individual development.
Hatching
Hatchlings use an egg tooth to cut through the shell.
After the first hatchling pips, others may follow over the next several days.
Do not unnecessarily remove a hatchling that is still absorbing yolk.
Hatchling Care
Hatchlings require:
- Secure accommodation
- Appropriate thermal gradients
- Fresh water
- Tight hides
- Climbing opportunities
- Appropriate humidity
Young Carpet Pythons are highly arboreal and often appreciate elevated perches.
Hatchling Security
Hatchling Carpet Pythons can escape through extremely small openings.
Carefully inspect:
- Ventilation holes
- Lid edges
- Door gaps
- Cable openings
First Shed
Hatchlings generally complete their first shed after leaving the egg.
Many breeders wait until this shed has occurred before offering the first meal.
First Meals
Appropriately sized mouse prey can then be offered.
Some hatchlings feed immediately while others may require patience.
Avoid excessive handling or repeated disturbance while a hatchling establishes feeding.
Cleaning
Remove:
- Faeces
- Urates
- Shed skin
- Spoiled prey
- Heavily contaminated substrate
promptly.
There is no universal requirement to completely replace all substrate every fixed number of weeks.
Cleaning frequency depends upon:
- Enclosure size
- Substrate type
- Animal size
- Degree of contamination
- Whether the enclosure is bioactive
Bioactive Housing
Carpet Pythons can be maintained in appropriately designed bioactive enclosures.
These may contain:
- Deep soil
- Live plants
- Leaf litter
- Springtails
- Appropriate isopods
However:
Bioactive does not mean maintenance-free.
Large Carpet Pythons can also be extremely destructive to delicate plants.
Veterinary Care
Seek a suitably experienced reptile veterinarian for:
- Abnormal breathing
- Repeated regurgitation
- Persistent poor shedding
- Significant weight loss
- Mouth lesions
- Serious burns
- Neurological abnormalities
- Unexplained swelling
- Severe injury
Early intervention is preferable to waiting until a reptile becomes severely debilitated.
Legal & Responsible Ownership
Requirements for keeping, breeding, transporting and trading Carpet Pythons vary between jurisdictions.
Keepers should verify current requirements relating to:
- Animal welfare
- Transport
- Import/export
- Wildlife trade
- Commercial selling
Never release a captive Carpet Python into the wild.
Responsible Acquisition
Where possible, choose:
Healthy captive-bred animals from traceable sources.
Retain reliable information concerning:
- Form/locality
- Morph
- Sex
- Hatch year
- Parentage where relevant
- Origin
This is particularly important when animals are represented as specific Carpet Python localities.
Summary
Carpet Pythons are active, intelligent and highly adaptable semi-arboreal snakes.
Successful husbandry centres around:
- Individual housing
- Generous horizontal space
- Meaningful vertical space
- Strong climbing structures
- Secure warm and cool hides
- A proper thermal gradient
- Moderate humidity
- Good ventilation
- Fresh drinking water
- Appropriate whole prey
- Controlled feeding
- Strong enclosure security
- Appropriate quarantine and biosecurity
- Regular health monitoring
Several principles are particularly important:
Carpet Pythons need horizontal space as well as climbing height.
A local warm area around 30–32°C is appropriate for many Carpet Pythons; the entire enclosure should never be maintained at basking temperature.
Routine daily misting or fogging is not automatically required.
Artificial UVB is not essential for successful maintenance on an appropriate whole-prey diet.
Low-level UVB may be provided optionally where the snake has access to shade and complete retreat.
Carpet Pythons are powerful feeders and feeding response should be managed carefully.
Different Carpet Python forms originate from different environments, so locality-specific husbandry should be considered whenever ancestry is known.
With sufficient space, strong climbing opportunities, sensible temperature and humidity gradients and appropriate nutrition, Morelia spilota can remain an active and impressive captive snake for several decades.
Important: This care sheet provides general husbandry guidance for Morelia spilota. Requirements can vary according to form/locality, age, size, health and reproductive status. Health concerns should be discussed with a suitably qualified reptile-experienced veterinary surgeon.