CAT GECKO (AELUROSCALABOTES FELINUS) CARE SHEET
The Cat Gecko (Aeluroscalabotes felinus) is an unusual nocturnal gecko from Southeast Asia, immediately recognisable by its large eyes, delicate build, slender prehensile tail and distinctly cat-like appearance.
Unlike many familiar arboreal geckos, Cat Geckos do not possess the broad adhesive toe pads associated with species such as Gekko, Phelsuma or Correlophus. Instead, they have relatively slender clawed digits and move deliberately through branches and vegetation, frequently wrapping the tail around supports for additional security.
They are also unusual among geckos because they possess functional eyelids.
Although not impossibly difficult to maintain, Aeluroscalabotes felinus is best regarded as an intermediate-to-advanced species.
Successful husbandry requires:
- Moderate rather than excessive temperatures
- Reliable nighttime cooling
- High but fluctuating humidity
- Excellent ventilation
- Dense arboreal structure
- Numerous narrow branches
- Low-level UVB
- Regular hydration
- A varied insect-based diet
- Minimal handling and disturbance
Heat stress, dehydration and chronic stress are particularly important risks.
Captive-bred animals should always be preferred where available.
QUICK FACTS
Scientific name: Aeluroscalabotes felinus
Common names: Cat Gecko, Malaysian Cat Gecko
Family: Eublepharidae
Origin: Southeast Asia
Lifestyle: Arboreal
Activity: Nocturnal
Adult size: Commonly approximately 6–8 in (15–20 cm) total length, with geographic and individual variation
Diet: Insectivorous
Day temperature: Approximately 72–79°F (22–26°C)
Warmest area: Approximately 79–82°F (26–28°C), used sparingly
Night temperature: Approximately 64–72°F (18–22°C)
Humidity: Generally around 70–85%, often rising higher after misting
UVB: Low-level UVB recommended
Suggested UVI: Approximately 0.5–1.5 at exposed resting positions, with deep shade available
Adult enclosure: Approximately 18 × 18 × 24 in (45 × 45 × 60 cm) minimum for one adult; larger preferred
Housing: Individual housing is the safest default
Handling: Minimal
Experience level: Intermediate to advanced
TAXONOMY
The accepted scientific name is:
Aeluroscalabotes felinus
It is the sole living species currently recognised in the genus:
Aeluroscalabotes
and is an unusual member of the eyelid gecko lineage.
The species was historically divided into forms or subspecies in older literature, and animals from different parts of its range can differ somewhat in:
- Colour
- Pattern
- Body proportions
- Size
For responsible captive breeding, animals with known geographic provenance should not be mixed indiscriminately where distinct locality lines are being maintained.
WHAT MAKES CAT GECKOS DIFFERENT?
Cat Geckos differ noticeably from many commonly kept geckos.
They possess:
- Functional eyelids
- Clawed digits
- No broad adhesive toe pads
- A highly prehensile tail
- A relatively delicate body
- Slow, deliberate climbing behaviour
The tail is particularly important.
It can be wrapped around:
- Branches
- Vines
- Twigs
- Plant stems
and functions almost like an additional climbing aid.
NATURAL DISTRIBUTION
Aeluroscalabotes felinus occurs in parts of Southeast Asia.
Its range includes areas associated with:
- Peninsular Malaysia
- Borneo
- Southern Thailand
- Nearby parts of the Sunda region
Animals from different populations may show considerable variation.
NATURAL HABITAT
Cat Geckos inhabit humid tropical and subtropical forest environments.
They are strongly associated with:
- Low vegetation
- Bushes
- Shrubs
- Small trees
- Fine branches
- Vines
- Dense forest understory
They are not generally high-canopy specialists.
Instead, much of their activity occurs among complex lower vegetation.
ACTIVITY
Cat Geckos are:
strongly nocturnal.
During daylight they typically rest concealed among vegetation or on shaded branches.
After dark they become active and move slowly through the enclosure hunting small invertebrates.
MOVEMENT
Their locomotion is remarkably deliberate.
A Cat Gecko may:
- Grip a branch with all four limbs
- Wrap the tail around another support
- Reach forward slowly
- Test the next branch
- Transfer weight only when secure
This climbing style should strongly influence enclosure design.
ENCLOSURE SIZE
For a single adult, provide at least approximately:
18 × 18 × 24 in (45 × 45 × 60 cm).
However, an enclosure around:
18 × 18 × 36 in (45 × 45 × 90 cm)
or:
24 × 18 × 24–36 in (60 × 45 × 60–90 cm)
provides substantially more opportunity for natural movement.
WHY SPACE MATTERS
A larger enclosure allows:
- More branch networks
- Better temperature gradients
- More humidity gradients
- More shaded retreats
- Better separation from lighting
- Greater behavioural choice
- More natural hunting
Cat Geckos do not need huge expanses of open space.
They need:
dense, usable three-dimensional structure.
JUVENILE HOUSING
Juveniles may be maintained in smaller secure arboreal enclosures.
However, these should still contain:
- Fine branches
- Dense foliage
- Correct humidity
- Good ventilation
- Fresh water
- Low-level UVB
- Appropriate temperatures
Do not use barren containers simply because the animal is small.
ENCLOSURE TYPE
Suitable options include:
- Glass arboreal terrariums
- PVC arboreal enclosures
- Naturalistic planted vivariums
The enclosure must balance:
humidity retention with effective ventilation.
VENTILATION
Excellent ventilation is essential.
A humid Cat Gecko enclosure should never smell:
- Stale
- Sour
- Mouldy
- Stagnant
Cross ventilation or lower and upper ventilation is strongly recommended.
WHY STAGNANT HUMIDITY IS DANGEROUS
Poorly ventilated wet conditions can encourage:
- Bacterial growth
- Fungal growth
- Respiratory disease
- Skin problems
- Mould
- Substrate deterioration
High humidity and good ventilation are not mutually exclusive.
Both are required.
FURNISHINGS
Provide a dense network of:
- Fine branches
- Medium branches
- Vines
- Twigs
- Cork bark
- Roots
- Live plants
- Artificial foliage where appropriate
BRANCH DIAMETER
Cat Geckos particularly benefit from:
narrow to medium-diameter branches.
Their feet are adapted to grasping rather than adhering to broad glass surfaces.
Provide branches that allow the toes to wrap naturally around them.
BRANCH ORIENTATION
Use branches positioned:
- Horizontally
- Diagonally
- Vertically
Crossing branches are particularly valuable because they allow the gecko to transfer between supports without jumping.
PREHENSILE TAIL
The tail should be able to wrap around branches naturally.
Provide enough fine structural material that the gecko can use the tail frequently.
Avoid an enclosure containing only:
- One thick branch
- Smooth glass
- Large empty spaces
CORK
Cork bark provides:
- Shelter
- Climbing texture
- Humidity-buffered spaces
- Visual cover
Both cork flats and narrow tubes can be useful.
FOLIAGE
Dense foliage is highly beneficial.
It provides:
- Security
- Shade
- Drinking surfaces
- Humidity retention
- Visual barriers
- UV refuge
The animal should be able to disappear from view.
LIVE PLANTS
Suitable plants may include:
- Pothos
- Philodendron
- Ficus
- Peperomia
- Schefflera
- Dracaena
- Small climbing tropical plants
Choose plants that create dense, branching vegetation.
PLANT SAFETY
Avoid plants recently treated with:
- Insecticides
- Miticides
- Herbicides
- Systemic pesticides
- Leaf-polishing chemicals
Prepare plants appropriately before use.
TEMPERATURE
Cat Geckos are often kept too warm.
Maintain much of the enclosure during the day at approximately:
72–79°F (22–26°C).
WARM AREA
A mildly warmer area around:
79–82°F (26–28°C)
may be available in part of the enclosure.
This should not create an intensely hot basking zone.
DO THEY NEED A HOT BASKING SPOT?
No.
Cat Geckos should not be maintained like:
- Bearded dragons
- Day geckos
- Desert geckos
They do not require a very hot basking surface.
NIGHT TEMPERATURE
Allow temperatures to fall at night to approximately:
64–72°F (18–22°C).
A nighttime temperature drop is beneficial.
OVERHEATING
Prolonged temperatures approaching or exceeding:
86°F (30°C)
should be avoided.
Cat Geckos can become stressed at high temperatures, particularly when combined with:
- Dehydration
- Low airflow
- Bright exposure
SUMMER MANAGEMENT
In warm homes, summer cooling may be more difficult than winter heating.
Useful methods include:
- Air conditioning
- Room ventilation
- Keeping the enclosure away from windows
- Reducing unnecessary heat-producing equipment
- Improving room airflow
- Operating lighting during cooler parts of the day where appropriate
Never allow direct sunlight through a window to strike the enclosure.
HEATING
Supplemental heating may not be necessary in many homes.
Where required, use a:
low-output overhead heat source controlled by a thermostat.
Avoid intense heating.
THERMOSTAT
Every significant heat source should be:
thermostatically controlled.
Monitor the actual temperature where the gecko can sit.
TEMPERATURE MONITORING
Use digital thermometers at several positions.
Monitor:
- Upper enclosure
- Mid-level branches
- Lower shaded area
An infrared thermometer is useful for checking branch surfaces.
SEASONAL COOLING
Experienced breeders may use a mild seasonal cooling period.
A cooler winter period may involve gradual reductions toward approximately:
70–72°F (21–22°C) during the day
and:
64–66°F (18–19°C) at night.
This should be introduced gradually.
BREEDING CYCLE
Seasonal changes in:
- Temperature
- Humidity
- Photoperiod
may stimulate reproductive activity.
However, published captive observations also indicate that this species can reproduce across much of the year under stable favourable conditions.
Therefore, a dramatic artificial “winter” is not essential for routine pet husbandry.
LIGHTING
Provide a clear day/night cycle.
Approximately:
12 hours light / 12 hours dark
is suitable for much of the year.
SEASONAL PHOTOPERIOD
Experienced keepers may reduce winter photoperiod modestly toward:
8–10 hours
and increase it during warmer months.
This is optional for non-breeding animals.
NIGHT LIGHTING
Provide true darkness at night.
Do not use permanently illuminated:
- Red lamps
- Blue lamps
- Purple lamps
- Moonlight bulbs
UVB
Low-level UVB is recommended.
Although Cat Geckos are nocturnal and often occupy shaded forest understory, they may still receive small amounts of natural ultraviolet radiation.
Providing gentle UVB allows voluntary exposure while reducing dependence entirely on dietary vitamin D3.
UV INDEX
A suitable target is approximately:
UVI 0.5–1.5
at exposed upper resting positions.
The enclosure should also contain abundant areas approaching:
UVI 0.
UVB EQUIPMENT
A low-output:
linear UVB lamp
is generally appropriate.
The exact lamp depends upon:
- Enclosure height
- Mesh
- Reflector
- Distance
- Foliage
- Lamp model
UVB SHADE
Dense shade is essential.
Do not expose the entire enclosure to the same UV level.
Provide:
UV exposure + dappled shade + deep shade.
UV MEASUREMENT
Where possible, measure UVI using an appropriate UV meter.
Measure where the animal can physically sit, not directly against the lamp.
HUMIDITY
Maintain moderate-to-high humidity.
A useful general range is:
70–85%.
Humidity may temporarily rise to:
90–100%
after misting.
HUMIDITY SHOULD FLUCTUATE
Do not attempt to maintain one fixed number around the clock.
A healthy cycle is:
mist → humidity rises → droplets remain available → surfaces gradually dry → humidity falls → repeat.
DAYTIME DRYING
Allow exposed leaves and branches to partially dry between misting events.
Constantly wet conditions can promote disease.
MISTING
Misting:
once or twice daily
is often appropriate.
Some enclosures may require more frequent light misting during warm or dry periods.
EVENING MISTING
A substantial evening misting near lights-out is particularly useful because the animal becomes active after dark.
MORNING MISTING
A lighter morning mist can be useful if the enclosure dries rapidly.
Adjust according to actual:
- Humidity
- Airflow
- Temperature
- Planting
- Substrate moisture
FOGGING
Short periods of fogging may be useful for increasing nighttime humidity.
Fogging should be:
- Intermittent
- Used in a ventilated enclosure
- Kept hygienic
Do not run a fogger continuously.
DRINKING
Cat Geckos frequently drink droplets from:
- Leaves
- Branches
- Glass
- Cork
WATER DISH
Provide:
fresh clean water at all times.
An elevated dish positioned near frequently used branches can make drinking easier.
SIGNS OF DEHYDRATION
Possible signs include:
- Sunken eyes
- Wrinkled skin
- Reduced activity
- Weakness
- Poor shedding
- Weight loss
- Reduced feeding
Persistent dehydration requires investigation.
SUBSTRATE
Suitable substrates include:
- Organic topsoil
- Coco-based tropical substrate
- Leaf litter
- Fine orchid bark
- Commercial tropical bioactive mixtures
SUBSTRATE DEPTH
Provide enough depth to:
- Retain moderate moisture
- Support live plants
- Buffer humidity
- Provide egg-laying opportunities
SUBSTRATE MOISTURE
The substrate should generally remain:
slightly moist rather than saturated.
DRAINAGE
A drainage layer is useful in frequently misted planted enclosures.
This prevents the main substrate from becoming waterlogged.
LEAF LITTER
A generous layer of leaf litter is highly appropriate.
It provides:
- Moisture buffering
- Microfauna habitat
- Natural cover
- Egg-laying cover
- Environmental complexity
BIOACTIVE HOUSING
Cat Geckos can thrive in well-established bioactive enclosures.
Suitable clean-up crew organisms include:
- Springtails
- Small tropical isopods
BIOACTIVE DOES NOT MEAN MAINTENANCE-FREE
Continue to:
- Clean water dishes
- Remove dead feeders
- Remove heavily contaminated material
- Maintain plants
- Monitor drainage
- Inspect for mould
- Check equipment
DIET
Cat Geckos are:
insectivorous.
In nature they consume a variety of small invertebrates.
SUITABLE FEEDERS
Suitable captive prey includes:
- Crickets
- Small locusts
- Small roach nymphs
- Black soldier fly larvae
- Silkworms
- Small moth larvae
- Flies
- Small captive-bred isopods where appropriate
- Other safe captive-bred insects
FEEDER SIZE
Prey should be appropriately sized.
Cat Geckos possess relatively delicate jaws and should not routinely be offered excessively large insects.
FEEDER VARIETY
Do not depend exclusively upon:
crickets.
A varied feeder rotation improves:
- Nutritional diversity
- Feeding response
- Behavioural enrichment
GUT LOADING
Feeder insects should be:
properly gut loaded.
Provide nutritious foods and hydration before feeding them to the gecko.
CALCIUM
Dust feeders appropriately with:
calcium.
Supplementation frequency depends upon:
- UVB availability
- Age
- Growth
- Sex
- Reproductive status
- Feeder species
VITAMINS
Use an appropriate reptile multivitamin according to a sensible schedule.
Particular care should be taken to avoid both deficiency and chronic oversupplementation.
VITAMIN A
Vitamin A plays an important role in:
- Skin health
- Eye health
- Mucosal health
- Normal shedding
Older breeding reports have associated persistent shedding problems in A. felinus with inadequate vitamin A status.
Do not attempt high-dose vitamin A treatment without veterinary guidance, because excessive preformed vitamin A can also be harmful.
FEEDING ADULTS
Healthy adults can generally be offered appropriately sized food around:
2–3 times per week.
Adjust according to:
- Body condition
- Season
- Reproductive condition
- Individual appetite
JUVENILE FEEDING
Growing juveniles should be fed more frequently.
Appropriately sized prey can generally be offered:
3–5 times per week
depending on age and size.
Very young hatchlings may benefit from smaller, more frequent meals.
FEEDING TIME
Offer food primarily:
in the evening or shortly after lights-out.
FEEDING BEHAVIOUR
Cat Geckos often hunt deliberately rather than explosively.
Provide prey opportunities on:
- Branches
- Foliage
- Cork surfaces
rather than expecting all feeding to occur from the ground.
REMOVE EXCESS PREY
Do not leave large numbers of hungry crickets roaming permanently.
Crickets may:
- Bite resting geckos
- Disturb them
- Damage plants
Remove excessive uneaten prey.
BODY CONDITION
Monitor:
- Weight
- Muscle tone
- Tail condition
- Activity
- Grip
- Feeding response
A digital gram scale is highly useful.
WEIGHT RECORDS
Recording weight every few weeks for:
- New animals
- Juveniles
- Breeding females
- Recovering animals
can identify problems long before they become visually obvious.
HANDLING
Cat Geckos should be regarded primarily as:
display animals.
Routine handling is unnecessary.
TEMPERAMENT
Many individuals are shy.
Some may tolerate gentle disturbance reasonably well, while others become stressed easily.
Do not interpret immobility as enjoyment of handling.
A frightened gecko may simply freeze.
NECESSARY TRANSFERS
When movement is necessary:
- Work in a secure room
- Move slowly
- Encourage the animal onto a branch
- Support the body
- Avoid chasing
- Keep handling brief
PREHENSILE TAIL SAFETY
Never:
- Pull the tail
- Unwrap the tail forcefully
- Restrain the gecko by the tail
Allow the animal to release its grip voluntarily.
TAIL AUTOTOMY
Like many geckos, Cat Geckos can lose the tail following severe stress or trauma.
The tail is functionally important for climbing, so unnecessary handling should be avoided.
SOCIAL HOUSING
Individual housing is the:
safest default.
WHY INDIVIDUAL HOUSING?
Individual housing allows accurate monitoring of:
- Feeding
- Faeces
- Weight
- Health
- Reproductive status
It also prevents chronic social stress.
MALES
Adult males should generally not be housed together.
Male conflict can occur even if obvious fighting is not constantly observed.
PAIRS AND TRIOS
Experienced breeders have maintained:
- Male/female pairs
- One male with multiple females
successfully.
However, other husbandry reports describe Cat Geckos as sensitive to disturbance or conspecific stress.
Therefore:
compatibility should be assessed individually.
SIGNS OF SOCIAL STRESS
Watch for:
- Weight loss
- Reduced feeding
- Persistent hiding
- Chasing
- Bite wounds
- One animal monopolising preferred branches
- Repeated attempts to escape
Separate animals if necessary.
SEXING
Adult males possess:
obvious hemipenal bulges
at the base of the tail.
Males may also show:
- More pronounced cloacal spurs
- Preanal pore development
Females lack pronounced hemipenal bulges.
JUVENILE SEXING
Sexual characteristics may begin becoming noticeable around:
7–10 months
depending upon growth and individual development.
Do not guarantee the sex of very young animals without reliable diagnostic characteristics.
BREEDING
Only breed animals that are:
- Mature
- Healthy
- Well hydrated
- Feeding consistently
- Correctly identified
- In excellent body condition
BREEDING FEMALES
Females must have adequate:
- Calcium
- Vitamin D status
- Protein
- Hydration
- Body reserves
Repeated clutches can be physiologically demanding.
COURTSHIP
Male courtship may involve:
- Approaching the female
- Tail movement
- Body elevation
- Gentle biting or gripping
- Holding the female around the neck during mating
Monitor carefully for excessive aggression.
MATING
Mating generally occurs during nocturnal activity.
If the female repeatedly rejects the male or appears stressed, separate the animals.
GESTATION
Eggs may become visible through the female’s abdomen as they develop.
A female approaching oviposition may:
- Become restless
- Investigate the substrate
- Dig repeatedly
- Reduce feeding temporarily
EGG PRODUCTION
Females typically produce:
two eggs per clutch.
Some individuals may occasionally produce a single egg.
CLUTCH FREQUENCY
Captive females may produce several clutches per year.
Published breeding observations have recorded approximately:
2–5 clutches annually
depending upon environmental conditions and individual females.
Do not encourage maximum possible egg production at the expense of female health.
EGG-LAYING
Females usually:
bury the eggs in substrate.
They may dig a small cavity, deposit the eggs and then cover the site.
LAYING SUBSTRATE
Provide a loose, slightly moist laying substrate.
Suitable material includes:
- Organic topsoil
- Coco fibre
- Soil/coco mixtures
The substrate should be:
moist enough to hold a shallow excavation but not waterlogged.
NEST BOX
A dedicated laying box containing suitable moist substrate can be useful, especially in enclosures where the main substrate is shallow.
CHECKING FOR EGGS
Look carefully for signs of digging.
Once eggs are discovered:
- Mark their upper surface if needed
- Lift them carefully
- Avoid rotation
- Transfer them to incubation medium
EGG APPEARANCE
The eggs are:
- Soft- or parchment-shelled
- Elongated
- Usually deposited in pairs
They are not firmly glued to surfaces like the eggs of many Gekko species.
INCUBATION
A suitable incubation temperature is approximately:
73–79°F (23–26°C).
NIGHTTIME INCUBATION DROP
A modest nighttime drop of approximately:
2–3°C
can be provided.
For example:
75–79°F (24–26°C) by day
and:
70–75°F (21–24°C) at night.
INCUBATION MEDIUM
Suitable incubation media include:
- Vermiculite
- Perlite
- Appropriate reptile incubation substrate
The medium should be:
moist but not saturated.
INCUBATION CONTAINER
Use a ventilated container that maintains stable humidity without allowing excessive condensation to collect directly on the eggs.
INCUBATION TIME
Eggs commonly hatch after approximately:
61–130 days.
Most successful incubation periods fall somewhere within this broad range depending upon temperature.
AVOID EXCESSIVE INCUBATION HEAT
Do not incubate eggs at very high temperatures merely to accelerate development.
Temperatures approaching:
86°F (30°C)
can risk developmental abnormalities or embryo mortality.
EGG ORIENTATION
If eggs have already begun developing:
maintain their original orientation.
Avoid unnecessary rotation.
HATCHLING SIZE
Hatchlings are small, often measuring approximately:
2.5–3.5 in (6.5–9 cm) total length
depending on the individual and population.
HATCHLING HOUSING
Provide secure arboreal housing containing:
- Fine twigs
- Narrow branches
- Dense foliage
- Fresh water
- Appropriate humidity
- Excellent ventilation
- Low-level UVB
HATCHLING ESCAPE SECURITY
Hatchlings are slender and can escape through very small openings.
Inspect:
- Door gaps
- Cable holes
- Mesh
- Vents
- Sliding tracks
carefully.
HATCHLING TEMPERATURE
Maintain juveniles approximately:
72–77°F (22–25°C)
during the day with a cooler nighttime period.
Avoid excessive heat.
HATCHLING HUMIDITY
Maintain approximately:
70–85%
with rises following misting and partial drying between misting periods.
HATCHLING FEEDING
Offer small prey such as:
- Fruit flies
- Pinhead crickets
- Tiny roach nymphs
- Small fly larvae
- Other safe tiny feeder insects
FIRST FEEDS
Hatchlings may begin feeding within several days of hatching.
Do not panic if a newly hatched gecko does not immediately feed on its first night.
HATCHLING FEEDING FREQUENCY
Offer appropriately sized food around:
3–5 times per week
and monitor individual growth.
HATCHLING HOUSING INDIVIDUALLY
Individual rearing is advisable because it allows accurate monitoring and eliminates competition.
Male incompatibility becomes increasingly important as juveniles mature.
HATCHLING RECORDS
Record:
- Parent identities
- Egg-laying date
- Incubation temperature
- Hatch date
- Hatch weight
- Feeding
- Growth
- Shedding
- Sex when determined
QUARANTINE
All newly acquired animals should undergo quarantine.
At least:
90 days
is a sensible general minimum.
Longer quarantine may be appropriate for:
- Wild-caught animals
- Imports
- Animals of uncertain origin
QUARANTINE ENCLOSURE
The quarantine enclosure should still provide:
- Fine climbing branches
- Cover
- Correct temperature
- Humidity
- Ventilation
- UVB
- Water
Do not compromise essential husbandry merely to make cleaning easier.
WILD-CAUGHT ANIMALS
Cat Geckos have historically entered captivity through wild collection.
Wild-caught animals may carry:
- Internal parasites
- External parasites
- Dehydration
- Injuries
- Nutritional deficiencies
- Chronic stress
Captive-bred animals should be strongly preferred.
PARASITE SCREENING
Veterinary faecal examinations are particularly worthwhile for:
- Wild-caught animals
- Imports
- Animals with uncertain histories
- Animals losing weight
Treatment should be based on appropriate diagnosis.
COMMON HEALTH PROBLEMS
Potential health problems include:
- Dehydration
- Heat stress
- Retained shed
- Nutritional deficiency
- Metabolic bone disease
- Parasites
- Respiratory disease
- Skin disease
- Trauma
- Reproductive complications
- Egg retention
HEAT STRESS
Possible signs include:
- Restlessness
- Persistent exposed positioning
- Rapid breathing
- Reduced feeding
- Weakness
- Dehydration
Check environmental temperatures immediately.
DEHYDRATION
Possible signs include:
- Sunken eyes
- Wrinkled skin
- Poor shed
- Weakness
- Reduced feeding
- Weight loss
Review:
- Misting
- Water access
- Humidity
- Temperature
- Ventilation
SHEDDING PROBLEMS
Retained shed may occur around:
- Toes
- Tail
- Limbs
- Eyes
Persistent problems should prompt assessment of:
- Humidity
- Hydration
- Nutrition
- Vitamin status
- General health
METABOLIC BONE DISEASE
Possible signs include:
- Weak grip
- Tremors
- Limb deformity
- Soft jaw
- Difficulty climbing
- Abnormal posture
Provide appropriate:
- Calcium
- UVB
- Vitamin D
- Diet
and seek veterinary care if disease is suspected.
RESPIRATORY DISEASE
Warning signs include:
- Wheezing
- Clicking
- Open-mouth breathing
- Nasal discharge
- Oral mucus
- Increased respiratory effort
Veterinary assessment is required.
EGG RETENTION
Breeding females can develop reproductive problems.
Possible warning signs include:
- Persistent digging without laying
- Abdominal swelling
- Straining
- Weakness
- Tremors
- Reduced appetite
- Sudden decline
Seek veterinary care promptly.
VETERINARY RED FLAGS
Seek an experienced reptile veterinarian for:
- Persistent anorexia
- Rapid weight loss
- Severe dehydration
- Repeated regurgitation
- Persistent diarrhoea
- Blood in faeces
- Abnormal breathing
- Nasal or oral discharge
- Tremors
- Weakness
- Loss of grip
- Significant wounds
- Neurological signs
- Prolapse
- Suspected egg retention
CLEANING
Spot-clean regularly.
Remove:
- Faeces
- Dead feeder insects
- Shed skin
- Mouldy material
- Contaminated substrate
WATER HYGIENE
Provide clean drinking water.
Wash water dishes regularly.
Misting reservoirs and tubing should also be cleaned routinely to prevent microbial buildup.
DISINFECTION
For deeper cleaning:
- Remove the animal
- Use reptile-appropriate disinfectant
- Follow dilution instructions
- Observe contact time
- Rinse where required
- Allow surfaces to become safe before reintroduction
Never mix disinfectants.
SOURCING
Whenever possible, purchase a:
documented captive-bred Cat Gecko from a reputable breeder.
Ask for:
- Scientific name
- Geographic origin if known
- Hatch date
- Sex
- Current weight
- Feeding history
- UVB provision
- Supplementation routine
- Parent information
- Health history
CAPTIVE-BRED ANIMALS
Captive-bred animals generally offer advantages including:
- Known age
- Better traceability
- Lower parasite risk
- Reduced collection pressure
- Established feeding behaviour
- Better adaptation to captivity
LOCALITY RECORDS
Where breeders maintain animals from documented geographic populations, preserve those records.
Do not assign a locality to an animal simply because its appearance resembles a known population.
CONSERVATION AND RESPONSIBLE TRADE
Although Cat Geckos are maintained successfully in captivity, they remain relatively uncommon compared with mainstream gecko species.
Responsible captive breeding is therefore valuable.
Avoid supporting poorly documented or unnecessarily wild-collected stock where captive-bred animals are available.
LEGAL CONSIDERATIONS
Check current legislation governing:
- Acquisition
- Collection
- Ownership
- Sale
- Breeding
- Transport
- Import
- Export
before obtaining or moving animals.
NEVER RELEASE CAPTIVE GECKOS
Never release a captive Cat Gecko into the environment.
Released reptiles may:
- Die
- Spread disease
- Affect native wildlife
- Establish non-native populations
Arrange responsible rehoming instead.
COMMON HUSBANDRY MISTAKES
Common mistakes include:
- Keeping the enclosure too hot
- Providing no nighttime cooling
- Maintaining temperatures close to 30°C continuously
- Using uncontrolled heating
- Providing an enclosure that is too small
- Using only thick branches
- Providing too little fine climbing structure
- Failing to accommodate the prehensile tail
- Sparse foliage
- Poor ventilation
- Keeping the enclosure permanently wet
- Chronic dehydration
- Providing no water dish
- Providing no UVB
- Providing excessive UVB without shade
- Feeding only crickets
- Poor gut loading
- Incorrect supplementation
- Ignoring possible vitamin deficiencies
- Leaving excessive crickets loose
- Excessive handling
- Pulling the tail
- Housing incompatible animals together
- Breeding females in poor body condition
- Failing to provide suitable laying substrate
- Incubating eggs too hot
- Failing to quarantine new animals
- Purchasing poorly documented wild-caught animals
RESPONSIBLE OWNERSHIP
Before obtaining a Cat Gecko, ensure you can provide:
- A secure arboreal enclosure
- Dense fine-branch structure
- Multiple vines and climbing routes
- Dense foliage
- Moderate daytime temperatures
- Nighttime cooling
- Protection from overheating
- High but fluctuating humidity
- Excellent ventilation
- Regular misting
- Permanent fresh water
- Low-level UVB
- A varied insect diet
- Proper gut loading
- Appropriate supplementation
- Minimal handling
- Quarantine
- Exotic veterinary care
- Long-term commitment
SUMMARY
The Cat Gecko (Aeluroscalabotes felinus) is an unusual nocturnal arboreal gecko from Southeast Asia distinguished by functional eyelids, clawed feet and a highly prehensile tail.
For a single adult, provide at least approximately:
18 × 18 × 24 in (45 × 45 × 60 cm),
with larger and especially taller accommodation strongly encouraged.
The enclosure should contain:
- Numerous fine branches
- Diagonal climbing routes
- Vines
- Cork
- Dense foliage
- Shaded resting areas
Maintain daytime temperatures primarily around:
72–79°F (22–26°C)
with only a mild warmer region around:
79–82°F (26–28°C).
Allow nighttime temperatures to fall to approximately:
64–72°F (18–22°C).
Avoid sustained temperatures around:
86°F (30°C) or higher.
Maintain humidity generally around:
70–85%
with temporary rises after misting and partial drying between misting periods.
Excellent ventilation is essential.
Provide low-level UVB with approximately:
UVI 0.5–1.5
at exposed positions and extensive deep shade.
Feed a varied diet of appropriately sized, gut-loaded and correctly supplemented live insects.
Fresh drinking water should always be available.
Individual housing is the safest default, although carefully monitored breeding pairs or trios have been maintained successfully.
Females usually deposit:
two soft-shelled eggs per clutch
in moist substrate.
Incubation around:
73–79°F (23–26°C)
typically produces hatching after approximately:
61–130 days, depending on conditions.
Handling should be minimal.
Captive-bred animals from traceable sources should always be preferred.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION:
This care sheet provides general husbandry guidance and does not replace species-specific research or veterinary advice. Individual requirements may vary.
Always check current legislation governing the acquisition, collection, import, transport, keeping, breeding or sale of reptiles in your jurisdiction.
If you have concerns about an animal’s health or care, consult a suitably experienced exotic or reptile veterinarian.
Information correct at the date of publication.
reptilecommunity.com | Revised: August 2026