Chilean Rose Tarantula (Grammostola rosea) Care Sheet
Quick Facts
Common Name: Chilean Rose Tarantula / Chilean Rose Hair Tarantula
Scientific Name: Grammostola rosea
Former Name Seen in the Hobby: Grammostola porteri
Family: Theraphosidae
Native Range: Chile, Bolivia and Argentina
Adult Leg Span: Approximately 12–15 cm (5–6 in)
Lifestyle: Terrestrial and burrowing
Activity: Primarily crepuscular/nocturnal
Diet: Invertebrates
Growth Rate: Slow
Temperament: Generally calm but highly variable between individuals
Defence: Urticating hairs, threat display and potentially biting
Lifespan: Females commonly 15–20+ years and potentially considerably longer; males are much shorter-lived after maturity
Experience Level: Beginner to intermediate
Introduction
The Chilean Rose Tarantula (Grammostola rosea) is one of the most recognisable tarantulas in the hobby.
For many years it was among the most commonly encountered pet tarantulas and gained a reputation for being hardy, relatively slow-moving and generally manageable.
However, this reputation can sometimes lead to inappropriate husbandry.
Chilean Rose Tarantulas originate from comparatively dry, seasonally variable habitats and should not be maintained like tropical rainforest tarantulas.
They are slow-growing terrestrial spiders that utilise burrows or other secure retreats and can survive surprisingly long periods without feeding.
Females are exceptionally long-lived and may remain in captivity for decades.
Taxonomy – Grammostola rosea and Grammostola porteri
Older hobby literature frequently distinguishes between:
Grammostola rosea
and
Grammostola porteri
This is no longer the currently accepted taxonomy.
Following taxonomic revision, Grammostola porteri was placed into synonymy with Grammostola rosea.
The currently accepted species name is therefore:
Grammostola rosea
The name G. porteri will continue to appear in older books, websites, sales records and captive bloodlines because it was used extensively within the hobby.
Natural Range & Habitat
Grammostola rosea occurs in:
- Chile
- Bolivia
- Argentina
Within Chile it is associated with comparatively dry environments, scrub and areas experiencing significant seasonal variation.
This is not a permanently humid rainforest species.
Wild animals utilise burrows and natural retreats that provide protection from:
- Temperature extremes
- Predators
- Excessive dryness
- Environmental disturbance
A burrow creates a more stable microclimate than exposed surface conditions.
This should be reflected in captivity by providing deep substrate and a secure retreat.
Size
Adult Chilean Rose Tarantulas commonly achieve a leg span of approximately:
12–15 cm (5–6 inches)
Females generally become heavier-bodied than mature males.
Males become more slender following their final maturation moult and develop specialised reproductive structures.
Growth is relatively slow.
This species should not be power-fed in an attempt to accelerate development.
Lifespan
The Chilean Rose is a very long-lived invertebrate.
Females can commonly live:
15–20+ years
and potentially considerably longer.
Males have a much shorter lifespan following sexual maturity.
This substantial difference between the sexes is typical of many terrestrial tarantulas.
A young female should therefore be regarded as a very long-term commitment.
Enclosure
Chilean Rose Tarantulas are terrestrial spiders.
Floor space is more important than enclosure height.
For an adult, an enclosure around:
30 × 30 × 30 cm
can provide suitable accommodation when correctly furnished.
Slightly larger accommodation can also be used.
However, excessive height is potentially dangerous.
Heavy-bodied terrestrial tarantulas are vulnerable to injuries from falls.
The distance between the substrate and enclosure roof should therefore be kept relatively low.
The enclosure must provide:
- Deep substrate
- A secure retreat
- Fresh water
- Good ventilation
- Safe fall distances
The enclosure must also be escape-proof.
Substrate
Provide approximately:
10–15 cm of substrate
for an adult, with greater depth where practical.
Suitable substrate can include:
- Chemical-free topsoil
- Coco fibre mixed with soil
- Invertebrate-safe soil mixtures
- Other compactable naturalistic substrates
The substrate should be firm enough to support excavation.
Very loose, fluffy substrate is less suitable.
The upper substrate should generally remain predominantly dry.
Some moisture can be retained in deeper layers or one section of the enclosure to provide a moisture gradient.
Avoid:
- Cedar
- Fertilised soil
- Chemically treated compost
- Sharp gravel
- Calcium sand
- Permanently saturated substrate
Hide & Burrowing
Every Chilean Rose should have access to a secure retreat.
Suitable hides include:
- Cork bark
- Half-buried cork tubes
- Artificial caves
- Other dark, stable structures
Partially burying a piece of cork can provide the beginning of a burrow which the tarantula can modify itself.
Some individuals may excavate extensively.
Others may barely alter their enclosure.
Both behaviours can be normal.
Do not repeatedly destroy burrows or force an animal out of its retreat simply because it has not been visible for some time.
Tarantulas can remain hidden for extended periods, particularly before moulting.
Temperature
Extreme temperatures are unnecessary.
A general captive temperature around:
20–24°C
is suitable for established animals.
Normal fluctuations within a comfortable indoor temperature range are generally well tolerated.
Slightly cooler nighttime temperatures are acceptable.
Avoid deliberately maintaining the enclosure excessively warm in an attempt to increase growth or feeding.
Prolonged excessive heat can cause dehydration and stress.
Heating
In a normally heated home or reptile room, dedicated enclosure heating is often unnecessary.
Avoid:
- Heat rocks
- High-powered basking lamps
- Uncontrolled heat mats
- Excessive direct heat
If the room regularly becomes too cold, warming the room itself is generally preferable to intensely heating an individual tarantula enclosure.
If external supplementary heating is unavoidable, it should be thermostatically controlled and positioned so that the spider can retreat away from the warmer area.
Never create an enclosure in which the animal has no escape from the heat.
Humidity & Moisture
Chilean Rose Tarantulas should not be maintained in constantly wet or excessively humid conditions.
There is generally little benefit in chasing a precise relative-humidity number.
Instead, provide:
- Constant access to clean water
- Good ventilation
- Predominantly dry surface substrate
- Some access to slightly moist deeper substrate
- Appropriate moisture for small spiderlings
Occasionally overflowing the water dish slightly can provide localised substrate moisture without saturating the entire enclosure.
Constant misting is unnecessary.
Poor ventilation combined with wet substrate can encourage mould, pests and unhealthy stagnant conditions.
Water
Fresh water should always be available.
Provide a shallow water dish appropriate to the size of the animal.
The dish should be:
- Easy to access
- Stable
- Regularly cleaned
- Refilled whenever necessary
Do not place cotton wool, sponge or similar materials inside the water dish.
These are unnecessary and can accumulate bacteria.
A tarantula can drink safely from a normal appropriately sized shallow water dish.
Lighting
Special lighting is unnecessary.
Chilean Rose Tarantulas do not require:
- UVB
- Basking lamps
- High-intensity lighting
Normal ambient room lighting can provide an appropriate day/night cycle.
Never position the enclosure in direct sunlight.
A glass or plastic enclosure exposed to sunlight can overheat extremely quickly.
Furnishings
A simple enclosure generally works best.
Suitable furnishings include:
- Cork bark
- A secure hide
- Artificial plants
- Limited leaf litter
- Lightweight decorative material
Avoid large unstable rocks.
A burrowing tarantula can excavate beneath heavy furnishings, potentially causing them to collapse.
Sharp decorations capable of damaging the abdomen should also be avoided.
Feeding
Chilean Rose Tarantulas are predatory invertebrates.
Suitable captive prey includes:
- Crickets
- Locusts
- Dubia roaches
- Other suitable captive-bred roaches
- Mealworms
- Superworms for appropriately sized adults
- Other suitable feeder insects
Adults require considerably less food than many inexperienced keepers expect.
A healthy adult can generally be offered approximately:
1–2 appropriately sized prey items every 7–14 days
depending upon prey size and body condition.
Juveniles can be fed somewhat more frequently.
Spiderlings require appropriately sized prey and can be offered food more frequently while growing.
Feeding schedules should always be adjusted according to the individual.
Fasting
Chilean Rose Tarantulas are particularly famous for prolonged periods of fasting.
An established adult may refuse food for:
- Weeks
- Several months
- Occasionally considerably longer
without necessarily being ill.
Possible reasons include:
- Premoult
- Seasonal behaviour
- Low metabolic requirements
- Reproductive state
- Individual feeding patterns
A tarantula refusing food but maintaining good body condition and having access to water is not automatically an emergency.
Do not repeatedly introduce prey to an animal that is clearly refusing food.
Remove uneaten prey.
Body Condition
The abdomen can provide useful information about body condition.
A healthy abdomen should be appropriately proportioned to the rest of the spider.
An extremely enlarged abdomen can increase the risk of serious injury if the spider falls.
An unusually shrunken abdomen may indicate:
- Dehydration
- Poor nutrition
- Illness
- Advanced age
Do not overfeed simply because the spider continues accepting prey.
Premoult
Signs of approaching moult can include:
- Refusal of food
- Reduced activity
- Increased hiding
- Increased webbing
- Darkening of the abdomen
- A darkened bald patch
- Closing the entrance to a retreat
Premoult may last for a considerable period.
Do not disturb a spider that has sealed itself inside its retreat.
Moulting
During moulting, a tarantula commonly lies on its back.
This is completely normal.
Do not assume that the spider is dying.
Never:
- Turn it over
- Touch it
- Pull at the old exoskeleton
- Attempt to help without specialist reason
- Offer live prey
Moulting is an extremely vulnerable period.
Following the moult, the new exoskeleton and fangs remain soft.
For a large adult, wait approximately:
7–14 days
before offering prey.
Smaller juveniles generally harden more quickly.
Any live feeder insects remaining in the enclosure during a moult should be removed because they can injure the vulnerable spider.
Urticating Hairs
Like many New World terrestrial tarantulas, Grammostola rosea possesses defensive urticating hairs.
When threatened, the spider may kick these hairs from its abdomen.
They can cause:
- Itching
- Skin irritation
- Rash
- Eye irritation
- Respiratory irritation
Eye exposure is particularly undesirable.
Avoid placing your face close to the enclosure during maintenance.
Wash your hands after working inside the enclosure.
Significant eye or respiratory exposure should receive appropriate medical attention.
Defensive Behaviour
Chilean Rose Tarantulas have a reputation for being calm, but temperament varies considerably between individuals.
A defensive animal may:
- Retreat
- Kick urticating hairs
- Raise its front legs
- Display its fangs
- Strike
- Bite
Some individuals remain calm for years and then behave defensively during particular circumstances.
A tarantula’s previous behaviour does not guarantee its future response.
Defensive displays should be respected.
Handling
Routine handling is not recommended.
The primary concern is often the safety of the tarantula rather than the keeper.
Heavy-bodied terrestrial tarantulas have relatively delicate abdomens.
A fall from hand height can cause:
- Abdominal rupture
- Internal injury
- Death
Handling also exposes the keeper to urticating hairs and the possibility of a defensive bite.
Tarantulas do not require handling for socialisation.
When an animal must be moved, a suitable catch cup and calm transfer technique are safer than carrying it by hand.
Venom & Bites
Like almost all tarantulas, Grammostola rosea possesses venom for subduing prey.
A defensive bite is possible.
Bites from this species are not generally regarded as medically significant to healthy adults, but individual reactions vary.
Any bite should be cleaned appropriately.
Medical advice should be sought if concerning symptoms develop, particularly significant swelling, persistent pain or allergic-type symptoms.
Never deliberately provoke a tarantula into biting.
Housing Individually
Chilean Rose Tarantulas should be housed:
Individually
They are not social animals.
Cohabitation can result in:
- Stress
- Injury
- Cannibalism
Males and females should only be introduced deliberately for breeding and should not simply be maintained permanently together.
Sexing
Sex can sometimes be estimated externally, but examination of a suitable moult provides a more reliable method for immature animals.
A mature male develops specialised reproductive structures.
These include:
- Emboli on the pedipalps
- A more slender mature appearance
- Longer-legged proportions
Females generally retain a heavier-bodied appearance and can continue moulting and living for many years after reaching maturity.
Examination of the internal abdominal portion of a suitable moult can reveal female reproductive structures and is generally the preferred method of confirming sex before maturity.
Cleaning
Tarantula enclosures generally require relatively little disturbance.
Remove:
- Uneaten prey
- Prey remains
- Mould
- Contaminated material
- Other obvious waste
Clean and refill the water dish regularly.
Routine complete substrate changes are unnecessary if the enclosure remains clean and healthy.
Repeated complete enclosure changes can destroy established retreats and cause unnecessary disturbance.
Spot cleaning is usually preferable.
Health
A healthy Chilean Rose Tarantula should generally display:
- Coordinated movement
- Appropriate body condition
- Successful moulting
- Normal use of its retreat
- Normal feeding or fasting behaviour
Potential problems include:
Dehydration
Possible signs include:
- Shrunken abdomen
- Weakness
- Abnormal posture
- Reduced coordination
Constant access to clean water is essential.
Fall Injuries
Terrestrial tarantulas can suffer serious abdominal injuries from falls.
This is why excessive enclosure height and routine handling should be avoided.
Moulting Problems
Occasionally a spider may experience difficulty escaping the old exoskeleton.
Do not attempt to pull the spider free without specialist guidance.
Mites & Pests
Not every tiny organism found in substrate is a parasitic mite.
However, organisms attached directly to the tarantula, particularly around the mouthparts, should be investigated.
Neurological Abnormalities
Severe uncoordinated movement, abnormal leg positioning or inability to move normally requires specialist assessment.
Veterinary treatment of arachnids is highly specialised. Where professional assistance is required, seek a veterinarian or experienced exotic-invertebrate specialist familiar with tarantulas.
Breeding
Breeding should only be attempted by keepers familiar with tarantula reproductive behaviour.
A sexually mature male may construct a sperm web before actively searching for a female.
When introducing a male to a mature female, sufficient space must be available for him to retreat.
Courtship can involve:
- Tapping
- Vibrations
- Leg movements
- Other species-typical signals
The male uses his specialised pedipalps to transfer sperm.
The interaction must be supervised because the female can injure or consume the male.
The animals should be separated after mating.
Egg Sac
Following successful mating, a female may eventually produce an egg sac.
Timing is variable and can be influenced by environmental and reproductive factors.
The female may become highly defensive while guarding the sac.
Disturbance should therefore be minimised.
Tarantula egg-sac management is a specialist breeding subject and should be researched thoroughly before breeding is attempted.
Spiderling Care
Spiderlings should be housed in appropriately sized secure containers.
They require:
- Good ventilation
- Suitable moisture
- Stable temperatures
- Appropriately sized prey
- A secure retreat
Small spiderlings are more vulnerable to dehydration than established adults.
Suitable prey can include:
- Tiny cricket nymphs
- Small roach nymphs
- Fruit flies
- Appropriately sized portions of freshly killed prey
As the spider grows, accommodation can be increased gradually.
Extremely large enclosures are unnecessary for tiny spiderlings and can make monitoring feeding and hydration more difficult.
Conservation
Grammostola rosea is native to Chile and neighbouring areas of South America.
Wild populations have historically been affected by collection for the international pet trade as well as habitat alteration.
Captive-bred animals should be preferred wherever possible.
Keepers should ensure that acquisition and trade comply with applicable wildlife and import/export regulations.
Summary
The Chilean Rose Tarantula is a hardy, slow-growing and exceptionally long-lived terrestrial tarantula when maintained appropriately.
Successful husbandry centres around:
- A secure terrestrial enclosure
- Limited fall distance
- Deep, compactable substrate
- A secure retreat
- Moderate room temperatures
- Mostly dry surface conditions
- Good ventilation
- Constant access to fresh water
- Appropriate feeding without overfeeding
- Respect for prolonged fasting
- Minimal disturbance during premoult and moulting
- Individual housing
- Avoidance of unnecessary handling
One of the biggest husbandry mistakes is treating Grammostola rosea as a tropical species requiring permanently wet substrate and constant high humidity.
The objective should instead be a well-ventilated, predominantly dry terrestrial enclosure with access to water and a suitable moisture gradient.
With appropriate care, particularly females can remain fascinating captive animals for decades.
Important: This care sheet provides general husbandry guidance. Individual animals may require adjustments according to age, size, sex and condition. Tarantulas should be handled only when necessary, and significant health concerns should be discussed with a veterinarian or experienced specialist familiar with exotic invertebrates.