Egyptian Flower Mantis (Blepharopsis mendica)

Egyptian Flower Mantis (Blepharopsis mendica) Care Sheet

The Egyptian Flower Mantis (Blepharopsis mendica) is a striking North African and Middle Eastern mantis known for its pale green, cream and beige colouration, elaborate leg lobes and distinctive crown-like head shape.

It belongs to the empusid group of mantises, which are generally characterised by slender bodies, unusual head structures, strong camouflage and a particular preference for flying prey.

Compared with more generalist mantises, Blepharopsis mendica is adapted to warm, relatively dry and highly ventilated environments. This means it should not be maintained in a permanently wet or stagnant enclosure. Strong airflow, suitable daytime warmth and regular access to drinking droplets are much more important than maintaining consistently high humidity.

Adult males develop long functional wings and conspicuous feathery antennae, while females become larger and more robust.

The species is best suited to an intermediate keeper who can provide dependable supplies of flies and understands the importance of moulting space, ventilation and careful hydration.

Successful husbandry requires a tall, extremely well-ventilated enclosure, warm temperatures, low-to-moderate humidity, secure overhead grip, regular drinking opportunities and abundant appropriately sized flying prey.


Quick Facts

Scientific name: Blepharopsis mendica
Common names: Egyptian Flower Mantis, Thistle Mantis
Order: Mantodea
Family: Empusidae
Origin: North Africa and the Middle East
Adult female size: Approximately 6–8 cm
Adult male size: Approximately 5–7 cm
Diet: Carnivorous/insectivorous
Preferred prey: Flying insects
Lifestyle: Arboreal/vegetation-dwelling ambush predator
Activity: Primarily diurnal
Housing: Individual housing is the safest approach
Temperature: Approximately 25–32°C during the day
Humidity: Low to moderate with excellent ventilation
Handling: Limited
Flight: Adult males are capable fliers
Experience level: Intermediate
Major requirements: Flying prey, warmth, strong ventilation and moulting clearance


Natural Distribution

Blepharopsis mendica occurs across parts of:

  • North Africa
  • The Middle East
  • Arid and semi-arid Mediterranean regions

It is associated with warm, dry environments containing:

  • Scrub
  • Thorny vegetation
  • Herbaceous plants
  • Dry grassland
  • Open sunny habitats
  • Flowering vegetation

Its appearance allows it to blend effectively into pale, dry and green plant material.


Natural Habitat

The species experiences environmental conditions quite different from those of tropical rainforest mantises.

Typical habitat features include:

  • Strong sunlight
  • Warm daytime temperatures
  • Significant airflow
  • Relatively low ambient humidity
  • Cooler nighttime temperatures
  • Seasonal changes

Captive housing should therefore prioritise heat and ventilation, not constant dampness.


Appearance

The Egyptian Flower Mantis has a distinctive and elegant body form.

Characteristic features include:

  • Pale cream or green body
  • Lobed legs
  • Slender thorax
  • Crown-like head projection
  • Long antennae
  • Powerful raptorial forelegs
  • Developed adult wings
  • Irregular plant-like outline

Head Crown

One of the species’ most obvious features is the unusual raised structure on the head.

This gives the mantis a:

crowned or pointed appearance

and helps disrupt the normal outline of the head.


Colour

Individuals may display combinations of:

  • Pale green
  • Cream
  • Beige
  • White
  • Brown
  • Pinkish tones

Colour variation is normal and may be influenced by:

  • Genetics
  • Development
  • Environmental conditions

Camouflage

Blepharopsis mendica is adapted to blend into:

  • Dry grasses
  • Pale flowers
  • Thorny vegetation
  • Seed heads
  • Thin stems

Its camouflage relies on both:

body shape and stillness.


Adult Size

Adult females generally reach approximately:

6–8 cm.

Adult males are usually around:

5–7 cm

and considerably slimmer.


Sexual Dimorphism

Adult females and males differ noticeably.

Females are generally:

  • Larger
  • Broader
  • Heavier
  • More robust

Males are:

  • Slimmer
  • Lighter
  • More mobile
  • Stronger fliers

Adult Male Antennae

Adult males develop prominent:

feathery antennae.

These are much more elaborate than those of females.

The antennae are used in detecting chemical cues associated with receptive females.


Adult Females

Adult females possess:

  • Broader abdomen
  • Heavier build
  • Developed wings
  • Powerful raptorial forelegs

Their heavier body makes them less agile in flight.


Adult Males

Adult males are:

  • Slim
  • Lightweight
  • Long-winged
  • Equipped with feathery antennae
  • Capable of effective flight

Take extra care during enclosure maintenance.


Sexing Nymphs

Sexing becomes easier as the nymphs mature.

Useful characteristics include:

  • Abdominal structure
  • Body proportions
  • Developing antennae
  • Wing-bud shape

Hunting Behaviour

The Egyptian Flower Mantis is an:

ambush predator.

It often remains motionless until prey approaches.

Once an insect enters striking range, the mantis captures it rapidly with the raptorial forelegs.


Flying-Prey Preference

Like many empusid mantises, Blepharopsis mendica shows a strong preference for:

flying prey.

Flies should therefore form an important part of the captive diet.


Diet

Suitable captive-bred feeders include:

  • Fruit flies
  • House flies
  • Green bottle flies
  • Blue bottle flies
  • Small cultured moths
  • Other appropriately sized flying insects

Some individuals may accept certain crawling prey, but flying insects are generally the most natural and reliable choice.


Hatchling Food

Small nymphs can begin on:

  • Drosophila melanogaster
  • Drosophila hydei

Choose prey according to the size of the mantis.


House Flies

House flies are highly useful as nymphs grow.

They:

  • Remain active
  • Move throughout the enclosure
  • Trigger natural hunting behaviour
  • Stay visible to the mantis

Green Bottle Flies

Green bottle flies are excellent for larger nymphs and adults.

Their activity stimulates strong feeding responses.


Blue Bottle Flies

Blue bottle flies may be suitable for larger animals.

Always ensure the prey is not oversized.


Maintaining Fly Cultures

A reliable source of flies should be established before obtaining the species.

Many keepers use:

  • Fly pupae
  • Emerging adult flies
  • Established fruit-fly cultures

Dependable feeder availability is essential.


Why Feeder Planning Matters

This species is poorly suited to a keeper who can only occasionally obtain suitable prey.

Running out of appropriate flying insects can lead to:

  • Underfeeding
  • Inappropriate substitutions
  • Stress
  • Poor growth

Roaches

Some individuals may accept small roaches.

However, they should not replace flying prey as the primary diet.

Crawling feeders often remain low in the enclosure and may be less stimulating.


Locusts

Small locusts may occasionally be accepted.

They are best used as variety rather than the core diet.


Crickets

Crickets are generally less suitable as a staple.

They may:

  • Hide
  • Bite
  • Disturb a moulting mantis
  • Attack freshly moulted individuals

Remove uneaten crickets promptly.


Mealworms

Mealworms are generally poor staple feeders for this species.

They:

  • Fall to the floor
  • Burrow
  • Do not trigger normal aerial hunting behaviour

They should not form the foundation of the diet.


Wild-Caught Prey

Avoid wild insects because of risks including:

  • Pesticides
  • Parasites
  • Pathogens
  • Toxic species
  • Unknown chemical exposure

Captive-bred feeders are safer.


Vertebrate Prey

Egyptian Flower Mantises do not require vertebrate prey.

Do not offer:

  • Mice
  • Lizards
  • Frogs
  • Birds

Appropriately sized invertebrates provide a suitable diet.


Prey Size

Offer prey that the mantis can overpower safely.

Avoid insects that are:

  • Too large
  • Aggressive
  • Heavily armoured
  • Capable of injuring the mantis

Feeding Frequency

Feeding frequency depends upon:

  • Age
  • Temperature
  • Prey size
  • Body condition
  • Reproductive condition

Growing nymphs generally require food more often than adults.


Abdomen Condition

The abdomen provides a useful guide.

A thin abdomen may indicate hunger.

A fuller abdomen suggests another large meal is unnecessary immediately.


Overfeeding

Avoid keeping the mantis constantly overfed.

A very heavy abdomen can increase:

  • Physical strain
  • Reduced mobility
  • Risk associated with falls

Premoult Fasting

Nymphs commonly refuse prey before moulting.

This is normal.

When premoult is suspected:

  • Remove uneaten prey
  • Maintain hydration
  • Avoid handling
  • Minimise disturbance

Housing

A tall, exceptionally well-ventilated enclosure is essential.

Suitable options include:

  • Mesh mantis cages
  • Cross-ventilated acrylic enclosures
  • Purpose-built mantis enclosures
  • Tall ventilated terrariums

Individual Housing

The safest routine recommendation is:

individual housing.

Cannibalism can occur even in species that appear relatively tolerant.


Communal Housing

Some experienced keepers may temporarily maintain small empusid nymphs together.

However, cannibalism risk remains.

For general care:

individual housing is safer.


Enclosure Size

A useful general rule is:

at least three times the mantis’ body length in height

and:

at least twice its body length in width.

For an adult, around:

20 × 20 × 30 cm or larger

provides a practical starting point.


Vertical Space

Vertical clearance is essential.

The enclosure must provide enough room for:

  • Climbing
  • Resting
  • Hunting
  • Moulting
  • Wing expansion

Moulting Height

The mantis moults while hanging upside down.

It must be able to:

  1. Secure itself overhead.
  2. Hang completely free.
  3. Split the old exoskeleton.
  4. Pull downward.
  5. Extract its legs and forelegs.
  6. Extend fully.
  7. Remain suspended while hardening.

Insufficient space can cause a fatal mismoult.


Clear Moulting Zone

Leave substantial open space beneath the enclosure roof.

Do not fill the enclosure so densely that the mantis cannot hang freely.

Avoid obstacles directly below potential moulting sites.


Roof Grip

The roof must provide:

secure textured grip.

Suitable options include:

  • Fine plastic mesh
  • Fabric insect mesh
  • Safe textured ventilation panels

Smooth acrylic or glass is not enough.


Metal Mesh

Avoid sharp or coarse metal mesh.

Mantis feet can become:

  • Worn
  • Trapped
  • Injured

Use fine insect-safe materials.


Ventilation

Excellent ventilation is one of the most important husbandry requirements.

Blepharopsis mendica should not be housed in:

stagnant, permanently humid conditions.


Cross-Ventilation

Cross-ventilation is strongly recommended.

This can be created through:

  • Opposing ventilation panels
  • Side ventilation plus roof mesh
  • Large mesh enclosure sections

Air movement should be continuous and gentle.


Temperature

This species prefers warm daytime conditions.

A useful daytime range is approximately:

25–32°C.

Around:

27–30°C

provides a practical routine target for many individuals.


Night Temperature

Night temperatures can fall to approximately:

18–22°C

depending upon the captive line and season.

Moderate nightly cooling is natural.


Heating

Supplemental heating may be required.

Suitable options include:

  • Room heating
  • Gentle external heating
  • Thermostatically controlled equipment

Avoid intense uncontrolled heat.


Thermostat

Dedicated heating equipment should ideally be controlled by:

a reliable thermostat.

Small enclosures can overheat rapidly.


Temperature Monitoring

Use a reliable thermometer.

Do not rely entirely upon:

  • Touch
  • Guesswork
  • General room temperature

Direct Sunlight

Never use direct sunlight as a captive heat source.

Transparent enclosures can overheat quickly and dangerously.


Humidity

Egyptian Flower Mantises generally require:

low-to-moderate humidity.

A useful range is approximately:

40–60% relative humidity.

Ventilation and hydration are more important than maintaining an exact percentage.


Humidity Versus Hydration

A dry-style enclosure does not mean the mantis should be dehydrated.

Provide regular access to drinking droplets while allowing the enclosure to dry between mistings.


Misting

Light misting provides:

  • Drinking droplets
  • Temporary humidity

The enclosure should dry afterward.


Misting Frequency

Frequency depends upon:

  • Temperature
  • Ventilation
  • Room humidity
  • Season
  • Enclosure design

Light misting every day or every few days may be suitable depending on conditions.


Drinking

Mantises commonly drink droplets from:

  • Mesh
  • Branches
  • Leaves
  • Enclosure walls

Observe whether the mantis drinks after misting.


Direct Spraying

Avoid forcefully spraying the animal.

Mist nearby surfaces instead.


Water Bowls

Open water dishes are generally unnecessary.

Hydration can be supplied through:

  • Drinking droplets
  • Prey
  • Suitable environmental moisture

Substrate

Simple flooring works well.

Suitable options include:

  • Paper towel
  • Plain paper
  • Thin dry coco fibre
  • Naturalistic substrate

Avoid permanently wet substrate.


Paper Flooring

Paper makes it easy to:

  • Remove droppings
  • Remove prey remains
  • Detect mould
  • Monitor enclosure hygiene

Furnishings

Suitable furnishings include:

  • Thin branches
  • Dried stems
  • Artificial vegetation
  • Pesticide-free live plants

Keep the enclosure relatively open.


Thin Branches

Thin branches and stems are especially suitable because they resemble the vegetation used naturally by the species.

Provide several secure perches at different heights.


Branch Orientation

Useful orientations include:

  • Vertical
  • Diagonal
  • Horizontal

All branches should be securely fixed.


Dry Vegetation

Clean dry vegetation can enhance camouflage.

Only use material known to be free from:

  • Pesticides
  • Herbicides
  • Environmental contamination

Live Plants

Live plants can be used if they are:

  • Pesticide free
  • Suitable for dry conditions
  • Structurally safe

Recently purchased ornamental plants should not automatically be considered safe.


Lighting

Provide a clear day/night cycle.

Approximately:

12–14 hours of light during active warmer periods

can be suitable.


Bright Daylight

The species naturally inhabits bright environments.

Good visible illumination may support normal activity.

Any artificial light must not overheat the enclosure.


UVB

Specialised UVB lighting is not generally considered essential for routine husbandry.

Visible light and thermal conditions are more important.


Activity

Egyptian Flower Mantises may remain motionless for long periods.

This is normal.

Stillness is part of their:

  • Camouflage
  • Predator avoidance
  • Ambush hunting

Swaying Behaviour

A mantis may sway gently while moving.

This can imitate:

vegetation moving in the breeze.

It is normal behaviour.


Resting Posture

Individuals may align themselves with:

  • Stems
  • Dry flowers
  • Grass
  • Thin branches

and remain almost completely still.


Defensive Behaviour

When threatened, a mantis may:

  • Freeze
  • Raise the forelegs
  • Sway
  • Spread the wings
  • Turn toward the threat
  • Attempt to escape

Allow a defensive animal to settle.


Threat Display

Adult mantises may use the wings and forelegs to make themselves appear larger.

Do not provoke threat displays repeatedly for entertainment.


Handling

Handling should remain limited.

The species is slender and delicate.

Allow the mantis to:

walk onto your hand voluntarily.

Never grab it.


Handling Area

Handle only:

  • Indoors
  • In a closed room
  • Away from open windows
  • Away from exterior doors
  • Away from fans and pets

Adult males can fly effectively.


Jumping

Nymphs may jump suddenly.

Keep hands close to a safe surface during transfers.


Adult Male Flight

Adult males are strong fliers.

Their lightweight bodies and long wings make accidental escape possible.

Take extra care when opening their enclosure.


Adult Female Flight

Females possess functional wings but are heavier and usually less agile.

They should still be treated as potential escape risks.


Defensive Strikes

A threatened mantis may strike with its raptorial forelegs.

This can cause:

  • Pinching
  • Scratching

The species is:

not venomous.


Moulting

Moulting is the most vulnerable period of development.

Correct enclosure design is essential.


Premoult Signs

Possible signs include:

  • Refusal of food
  • Reduced activity
  • Prolonged hanging
  • Avoidance of prey

Remove uneaten feeders when premoult is suspected.


During Moulting

Never:

  • Handle the mantis
  • Move the enclosure unnecessarily
  • Add live prey
  • Touch the exuvia
  • Spray directly onto the animal

A fall can be fatal.


Freshly Moulted Mantises

Immediately after moulting, the insect is:

soft and highly vulnerable.

It may appear pale or weak.

Leave it completely undisturbed.


Feeding After Moulting

Wait until the mantis:

  • Has hardened
  • Is gripping normally
  • Has regained normal coordination

before introducing substantial prey.


Exuvia

The discarded old exoskeleton is called the:

exuvia.

It can be removed once the mantis has completely finished moulting.


Mismoults

Potential causes include:

  • Insufficient height
  • Poor overhead grip
  • Dehydration
  • Incorrect environmental conditions
  • Physical obstruction
  • Disturbance
  • Falls

Preventative enclosure design is critical.


Final Moult

The final moult produces the fully winged adult.

The mantis requires generous space for its wings to:

  • Expand
  • Straighten
  • Harden

without obstruction.


Wing Deformities

Poor final moults can result in:

  • Crumpled wings
  • Bent wings
  • Uneven expansion

These cannot be corrected after adulthood.


Nymph Housing

Young nymphs require:

  • Fine ventilation
  • Secure overhead grip
  • Warm conditions
  • Moderate hydration
  • Tiny flying prey
  • Moulting clearance

Increase enclosure size as the mantis develops.


Escape Prevention

Small nymphs can pass through tiny openings.

Check:

  • Mesh size
  • Ventilation holes
  • Door gaps
  • Lid seams

carefully.


Growth

Nymphs develop through multiple:

instars.

Each instar ends with a moult.

Growth rate depends upon:

  • Temperature
  • Feeding
  • Sex
  • Genetics
  • Seasonal conditions

Seasonal Development

Like other empusid mantises from seasonal climates, Blepharopsis mendica may experience variations in growth rate according to:

  • Season
  • Temperature
  • Geographic lineage

Obtain husbandry information from the breeder whenever possible.


Social Housing

Some keepers may report temporary tolerance among small empusid nymphs.

However, cannibalism remains possible.

For general husbandry:

individual housing is safest.


Cannibalism

Risk increases when:

  • Food is limited
  • Size differences develop
  • Enclosure space is inadequate
  • One mantis is moulting

Breeding

Breeding requires mature, well-conditioned adults.

You will need:

  • Mature male
  • Mature female
  • Reliable flying prey
  • Suitable breeding space
  • Careful observation

Female Maturity

Allow the female time after the final moult to:

  • Harden
  • Feed
  • Reach reproductive maturity

Do not introduce a male immediately.


Male Maturity

Adult males should also be allowed time to mature after their final moult.


Preparing the Female

Feed the female well before introduction.

This can reduce but does not eliminate cannibalism risk.


Introducing the Male

Allow the male to approach naturally.

A spacious enclosure with multiple perches gives him opportunities to:

  • Observe
  • Approach
  • Retreat

Courtship

Courtship may include:

  • Visual observation
  • Slow approach
  • Positioning behind the female
  • Mounting

Avoid unnecessary disturbance.


Sexual Cannibalism

Sexual cannibalism is possible.

Monitor breeding introductions carefully.


After Mating

Separate the adults once mating is complete and it is safe to do so.

Permanent pair housing is unnecessary.


Ootheca

Females produce protective egg cases known as:

oothecae.

Each contains multiple developing eggs.


Ootheca Attachment

Oothecae may be attached to:

  • Branches
  • Stems
  • Mesh
  • Enclosure surfaces

Avoid forcibly removing them.


Ootheca Production

A healthy female may produce:

multiple oothecae

during adulthood.

Not every ootheca is necessarily fertile.


Ootheca Incubation

Provide:

  • Good ventilation
  • Warm conditions
  • Moderate moisture
  • Protection from saturation

Incubation Temperature

Approximately:

24–30°C

provides a useful general range.

Avoid overheating.


Incubation Humidity

Maintain low-to-moderate humidity with strong airflow.

Light occasional misting may prevent excessive drying.

Do not keep the ootheca wet.


Incubation Time

Hatching can take:

several weeks to a few months

depending upon temperature, season and captive lineage.


Preparing for Hatchlings

Before hatching, have ready:

  • Fruit fly cultures
  • Small rearing containers
  • Fine ventilation
  • Secure roof grip
  • Correct temperature

Hatchling Diet

Newly hatched nymphs require:

tiny flying prey.

Fruit flies are generally the most practical option.


Nymph Cannibalism

Cannibalism between nymphs can occur.

Individual housing provides the lowest risk.

If temporarily kept together, provide:

  • Abundant food
  • Considerable space
  • Many perches

Population Planning

Before breeding, make sure you can provide:

  • Enough containers
  • Sufficient feeder cultures
  • Appropriate heating
  • Adequate space
  • Time for maintenance
  • Responsible homes for offspring

Lifespan

Lifespan varies with:

  • Sex
  • Temperature
  • Feeding
  • Genetics
  • Seasonal development

Females generally live longer than males.

The complete life cycle commonly lasts around:

one year or longer.


Health

Common husbandry-related problems include:

  • Mismoults
  • Dehydration
  • Poor ventilation
  • Excessive humidity
  • Feeder shortages
  • Falls
  • Overheating
  • Pesticide exposure

Warning Signs

Potential concerns include:

  • Weak grip
  • Repeated falling
  • Loss of coordination
  • Severe limb deformity
  • Failed moulting
  • Persistent weakness
  • Prolonged food refusal unrelated to premoult or seasonal slowing

Hanging Upside Down

Hanging upside down is normal.

The mantis may be:

  • Resting
  • Hunting
  • Preparing to moult

Do not disturb it solely because of this posture.


Cleaning

Routine maintenance should include:

  • Removing dead feeders
  • Removing prey remains
  • Removing droppings
  • Replacing dirty substrate
  • Removing mould

Avoid disturbing the enclosure when premoult is suspected.


Mites

Mite problems are encouraged by:

  • Excess food waste
  • Excessive moisture
  • Poor ventilation

Correct the husbandry rather than using insecticides.


Household Chemicals

Keep the enclosure away from:

  • Fly spray
  • Flea treatments
  • Ant killer
  • Household insecticides
  • Garden pesticides

These can rapidly kill captive mantises.


Aerosols

Avoid spraying near the enclosure:

  • Air freshener
  • Cleaning sprays
  • Perfume
  • Deodorising aerosols

Highly ventilated enclosures allow airborne contaminants to enter easily.


Pesticide Exposure

Possible poisoning signs include:

  • Trembling
  • Weak grip
  • Loss of coordination
  • Falling
  • Rapid deterioration

Prevention is essential.


Quarantine

New animals should remain separately housed.

Monitor:

  • Feeding
  • Grip
  • Coordination
  • Moulting
  • General condition

Captive-Bred Animals

Captive-bred animals should be strongly preferred.

Advantages include:

  • Known origin
  • Known developmental stage
  • Established feeding history
  • Better seasonal husbandry information
  • Reduced wild collection

Responsible Sourcing

Before obtaining an Egyptian Flower Mantis, ask:

  • Is it captive-bred?
  • What geographic lineage is it?
  • What instar is it?
  • When did it last moult?
  • What prey is it currently eating?
  • What temperatures has the breeder used?
  • Has the stock experienced seasonal cooling?

Legal Considerations

Regulations concerning exotic mantises vary between jurisdictions.

Restrictions may apply to:

  • Possession
  • Breeding
  • Sale
  • Transport
  • Import
  • Export

Always verify current local rules.


Wild Collection

Do not collect wild animals unless you have confirmed that doing so is:

legal, sustainable and appropriate.

Captive-bred stock should be preferred.


Never Release Captive Mantises

Never release:

  • Adults
  • Nymphs
  • Oothecae

into the environment.

Even where the species may occur naturally, captive animals may represent different populations and carry pathogens.


Common Husbandry Mistakes

Common mistakes include:

  • Poor ventilation
  • Keeping the enclosure constantly wet
  • Failing to provide enough flying prey
  • Relying entirely on crawling feeders
  • Enclosures that are too short
  • Poor overhead grip
  • Dehydration
  • Direct sunlight
  • Uncontrolled heating
  • Oversized prey
  • Leaving dangerous feeders during premoult
  • Handling during moulting
  • Underestimating adult male flight
  • Ignoring seasonal development

Are Egyptian Flower Mantises Suitable for Beginners?

They are best considered:

intermediate.

The species is not exceptionally fragile when kept correctly, but its requirements are more specialised than those of robust generalist mantises.

Challenges include:

  • Strong preference for flying prey
  • Need for excellent ventilation
  • Warm daytime temperatures
  • Careful hydration
  • Relatively dry husbandry
  • Adult male flight
  • Potential seasonal variation

Why This Species Is Special

The Egyptian Flower Mantis combines:

  • Pale floral camouflage
  • Crown-like head structure
  • Lobed legs
  • Slender body
  • Empusid feathery male antennae
  • Strong preference for aerial prey

This makes it a particularly interesting contrast to broad-bodied generalist mantises.


Educational Value

Blepharopsis mendica provides excellent opportunities to observe:

  • Floral and vegetation camouflage
  • Ambush predation
  • Flying-prey specialisation
  • Male feathery antennae
  • Sexual dimorphism
  • Moulting
  • Wing development
  • Courtship
  • Ootheca production
  • Seasonal growth patterns

Responsible Ownership

Before obtaining an Egyptian Flower Mantis, ensure you can provide:

  • Reliable supplies of flying prey
  • Warm daytime temperatures
  • Strong ventilation
  • A tall enclosure
  • Secure overhead grip
  • Regular drinking opportunities
  • Safe indoor handling conditions
  • Seasonal care appropriate to the captive line

Breeders must additionally prepare for numerous small nymphs.


Summary

The Egyptian Flower Mantis (Blepharopsis mendica) is an elegant empusid mantis from North Africa and the Middle East, characterised by pale cream and green colouration, lobed legs and a distinctive crown-like head shape.

Like other empusid mantises, it is strongly adapted to capturing flying prey and should be provided with reliable supplies of fruit flies, house flies and larger cultured flies as it develops.

Successful husbandry requires a tall, exceptionally well-ventilated enclosure, secure overhead grip, warm daytime temperatures, low-to-moderate humidity, regular drinking opportunities and abundant appropriately sized flying prey.

A daytime range of approximately 25–32°C, with around 27–30°C providing a useful routine target, works well for many captive animals. Nighttime cooling is natural.

Humidity of approximately 40–60% provides a useful general guide, but airflow and hydration are more important than maintaining a precise number. The enclosure should never remain permanently wet or stagnant.

Moulting requires substantial vertical clearance and secure overhead grip. Live prey should be removed when premoult is suspected.

Adult males develop conspicuous feathery antennae and functional wings and can fly effectively. Enclosure maintenance should therefore always take place indoors in a secure room.

Breeding produces protective egg cases called oothecae, which require warmth, ventilation and moderate moisture. A successful ootheca may produce numerous nymphs, so feeder cultures and rearing containers should be prepared before hatching.

With reliable flying prey, appropriate warmth and excellent ventilation, Blepharopsis mendica is a rewarding species for intermediate keepers interested in empusid mantises and dry-habitat husbandry.


IMPORTANT INFORMATION

This care sheet provides general husbandry guidance and does not replace current species-specific research or applicable wildlife and import legislation.

Egyptian Flower Mantises require excellent ventilation and should not be maintained in permanently wet or stagnant conditions.

Flying insects should form an important part of the diet. Establish a dependable source of appropriately sized captive-bred flies before obtaining the species.

Provide secure overhead grip and substantial unobstructed vertical space for moulting. Never handle or disturb a mantis while it is actively moulting or immediately afterwards.

Adult males can fly effectively. Always carry out handling and enclosure maintenance indoors away from open windows and exterior doors.

Seasonal requirements may vary according to the geographic origin and captive lineage of the stock. Do not impose extreme cooling or other seasonal changes without reliable information from the breeder.

Individual housing is the safest routine approach because cannibalism remains possible.

Never release captive adults, nymphs or oothecae into the environment.

Always verify current regulations concerning possession, breeding, sale, transport, import and export in your jurisdiction.

Information correct at the date of publication.

reptilecommunity.com | Revised: August 2026