Ghost Mantis (Phyllocrania paradoxa)

Ghost Mantis (Phyllocrania paradoxa) Care Sheet

The Ghost Mantis (Phyllocrania paradoxa) is one of the most distinctive praying mantises kept in captivity. Its flattened body, leaf-like lobes, twisted-looking limbs and prominent head crest give it an extraordinary resemblance to a dry, curled leaf.

Rather than relying on bright floral camouflage like the Orchid Mantis, the Ghost Mantis disappears among dead foliage, bark and branches. Individuals can occur in shades of brown, dark brown, tan, greyish brown and green, allowing them to blend effectively into different backgrounds.

Ghost Mantises are generally regarded as one of the more manageable exotic mantises. They are comparatively calm, relatively small, and often less aggressively cannibalistic than many other mantis species. However, they remain predatory insects and individual housing is still the safest general recommendation.

Successful husbandry requires a tall, well-ventilated enclosure, suitable warmth, moderate humidity, secure overhead moulting surfaces, appropriately sized live prey and careful attention during moulting.


Quick Facts

Scientific name: Phyllocrania paradoxa
Common name: Ghost Mantis
Order: Mantodea
Family: Hymenopodidae
Origin: Sub-Saharan Africa and Madagascar region
Adult female size: Approximately 4.5–5.5 cm
Adult male size: Approximately 4–5 cm
Diet: Carnivorous/insectivorous
Activity: Primarily diurnal and crepuscular
Lifestyle: Arboreal ambush predator
Experience level: Beginner to intermediate
Housing: Individual housing recommended
Temperature: Approximately 22–28°C
Humidity: Moderate, with excellent ventilation
Handling: Gentle occasional handling possible
Major requirements: Live prey, ventilation and safe moulting space


Natural Distribution

Ghost Mantises occur across parts of:

  • Sub-Saharan Africa
  • Eastern Africa
  • Southern Africa
  • Madagascar and nearby regions

Different populations experience somewhat different environmental conditions.

In the wild they are associated with:

  • Dry vegetation
  • Shrubs
  • Woodland edges
  • Bushy habitats
  • Dead leaves
  • Thin branches

Their camouflage is particularly effective among dried vegetation.


Natural Lifestyle

Ghost Mantises are ambush predators.

Rather than actively pursuing prey over long distances, they often remain nearly motionless while waiting for an insect to enter striking range.

Their daily behaviour may include:

  • Hanging from branches
  • Swaying gently
  • Remaining motionless
  • Slowly repositioning
  • Hunting flying insects
  • Moving to shaded or sheltered areas

Their apparently slow behaviour can change instantly when prey comes within reach.


Appearance

The Ghost Mantis has one of the most unusual body shapes among commonly kept mantises.

Features include:

  • Flattened body
  • Leaf-like abdominal lobes
  • Lobed legs
  • Prominent head crest
  • Irregular body outline
  • Long raptorial forelegs
  • Large compound eyes

These features break up the outline of the insect and make it resemble dead plant material.


Head Crest

The distinctive structure on top of the head is one of the easiest ways to recognise the species.

The crest contributes to the illusion of:

a curled or damaged leaf.

Its shape becomes more pronounced as the mantis matures.


Colour

Ghost Mantises occur in several colour forms.

Common colours include:

  • Light brown
  • Dark brown
  • Tan
  • Grey-brown
  • Green
  • Olive

Colour may be influenced by:

  • Genetics
  • Development
  • Environmental conditions

A healthy mantis does not need to be green.

Brown individuals are completely normal.


Green Ghost Mantises

Green individuals are especially striking but should not be treated as a separate species.

Do not attempt to force a colour change using:

  • Artificial dyes
  • Unusual lighting
  • Extreme humidity
  • Other stressful husbandry changes

Correct welfare is more important than colour.


Adult Size

Adult Ghost Mantises are relatively small.

Females commonly reach around:

4.5–5.5 cm

while males generally reach approximately:

4–5 cm.

Females are noticeably broader and heavier despite the similar body length.


Sexual Dimorphism

Adult males and females differ clearly in:

  • Body shape
  • Abdomen width
  • Wing length
  • Antenna structure
  • General build

Males are slender and lightweight.

Females are broader and more heavily built.


Adult Females

Adult females generally possess:

  • Broad abdomen
  • Heavier build
  • Wider leaf-like appearance
  • Shorter-looking antennae
  • Wings that usually reach approximately to the end of the abdomen

Females are less accomplished fliers than males.


Adult Males

Adult males generally possess:

  • Slim abdomen
  • Longer, more feathery antennae
  • Long wings
  • Lightweight body
  • Greater flight ability

Adult males can fly surprisingly well.


Sexing Nymphs

Nymphs can often be sexed by counting visible abdominal segments from underneath.

Females generally show:

six visible abdominal segments

while males usually show:

eight.

This method becomes easier as the mantis grows.


Why Early Sexing Is Useful

Knowing the sex is especially helpful when breeding.

Males typically mature somewhat earlier and have shorter adult lives.

Planning ahead can help ensure males and females are mature at compatible times.


Housing

Ghost Mantises require a vertically oriented enclosure.

Suitable options include:

  • Tall acrylic mantis enclosures
  • Mesh insect cages
  • Well-ventilated terrariums
  • Purpose-built mantis containers

The enclosure should provide:

  • Vertical height
  • Secure roof grip
  • Cross-ventilation
  • Climbing branches
  • Clear moulting space

Enclosure Size

A useful minimum principle is approximately:

three times the mantis’ body length in height

and:

two times its body length in width.

For an adult, an enclosure around:

15 × 15 × 20–25 cm or larger

can work well.

Larger enclosures are acceptable provided prey can still be located easily.


Why Height Matters

Mantises moult while hanging upside down.

During moulting, the insect must:

  1. Attach securely overhead.
  2. Hang vertically.
  3. Split the old exoskeleton.
  4. Pull its body downward.
  5. Extract the legs and forelegs.
  6. Extend fully.
  7. Remain hanging while the new exoskeleton hardens.

Insufficient height can result in severe injury or death.


Clear Moulting Zone

The area beneath the enclosure roof should remain relatively open.

Avoid placing:

  • Thick branches
  • Decorations
  • Feeding dishes
  • Dense plants

directly beneath every potential moulting position.

The mantis needs enough space to hang completely free.


Roof Grip

The roof should provide a secure surface for gripping.

Suitable options include:

  • Fine plastic mesh
  • Fabric insect mesh
  • Textured ventilation panels

Smooth plastic alone may provide inadequate grip.


Sharp Mesh

Avoid sharp or coarse metal mesh that could damage the feet.

Delicate mantis tarsi can become:

  • Worn
  • Trapped
  • Injured

Fine insect-safe mesh is preferable.


Ventilation

Excellent ventilation is essential.

Ghost Mantises generally tolerate somewhat drier conditions than many tropical mantises, but stagnant air can still cause problems.

Good airflow helps reduce:

  • Mould
  • Excess condensation
  • Bacterial growth
  • Unhealthy substrate conditions

Cross-Ventilation

Cross-ventilation is especially effective.

This means ventilation is available through more than one area of the enclosure, allowing air to move through rather than simply sitting inside.

Useful designs include:

  • Side vents plus roof mesh
  • Ventilation on opposite walls

Temperature

A useful general temperature range is approximately:

22–28°C.

For routine maintenance, around:

23–26°C

works well for many individuals.

Moderate nighttime cooling is usually acceptable.


Heating

Additional heating may not be necessary in a warm home.

If heating is required, use:

  • Gentle external heating
  • Thermostatic control
  • Accurate temperature monitoring

Avoid placing the enclosure directly on strong heat sources.


Thermostat

Any dedicated heater should ideally be controlled by:

a thermostat.

Small mantis enclosures can overheat rapidly.


Direct Sunlight

Never place a transparent enclosure in direct sunlight.

Temperatures can rise to dangerous levels extremely quickly.

Keep the enclosure away from:

  • Sunny windows
  • Radiators
  • Powerful lamps
  • Other uncontrolled heat sources

Humidity

Ghost Mantises generally thrive with:

moderate humidity.

A useful general range is approximately:

50–70% relative humidity

with excellent ventilation.

Young nymphs may benefit from slightly more consistent moisture around moulting.


Do Not Keep Them Permanently Wet

This species does not require a saturated rainforest enclosure.

Avoid:

  • Constant condensation
  • Waterlogged substrate
  • Permanently wet surfaces
  • Poor airflow

Humidity should come with drying opportunities.


Misting

Light misting every day or every few days may be appropriate depending upon:

  • Room humidity
  • Enclosure ventilation
  • Temperature
  • Mantis age

The goal is to provide drinking droplets without keeping the enclosure continually soaked.


Drinking

Ghost Mantises commonly drink droplets from:

  • Walls
  • Leaves
  • Branches
  • Mesh

Light misting is usually sufficient for hydration alongside moisture obtained from prey.


Direct Spraying

Avoid spraying the mantis forcefully at close range.

Use a fine mist directed mainly toward enclosure surfaces.


Water Bowls

Water bowls are generally unnecessary.

Small mantises can potentially become trapped in open water.

Hydration should normally come from:

  • Prey
  • Misting
  • Appropriate humidity

Substrate

Substrate can be simple.

Suitable choices include:

  • Paper towel
  • Plain paper
  • Thin coco fibre
  • Naturalistic substrate

Paper towel is particularly convenient for straightforward maintenance.


Paper Flooring

Paper makes it easy to:

  • Remove prey remains
  • Monitor droppings
  • Detect mould
  • Maintain hygiene

Replace it when dirty.


Naturalistic Housing

A naturalistic enclosure may include:

  • Thin branches
  • Cork bark
  • Artificial foliage
  • Pesticide-free live plants
  • Dry leaves

However, decoration should never reduce moulting clearance.


Branches

Provide branches with a range of orientations.

Useful positions include:

  • Vertical
  • Diagonal
  • Horizontal

Branches should allow the mantis to move comfortably throughout the enclosure.


Diet

Ghost Mantises are carnivorous and require live prey.

Suitable feeders include:

  • Fruit flies
  • House flies
  • Green bottle flies
  • Blue bottle flies
  • Small moths from safe captive sources
  • Small roaches
  • Small crickets with caution

Flying prey is particularly suitable.


Fruit Flies

Young nymphs can begin on:

  • Drosophila melanogaster
  • Drosophila hydei

Choose prey according to the size of the mantis.


Flies

Flies are among the best feeders for Ghost Mantises.

Useful options include:

  • House flies
  • Green bottle flies
  • Blue bottle flies

They encourage natural hunting behaviour and remain visible in arboreal enclosures.


Why Flying Prey Is Useful

Ghost Mantises often wait motionless among branches.

Flying insects naturally move into the mantis’ strike zone.

This can make them easier for the mantis to detect than prey that immediately hides in the substrate.


Roaches

Small feeder roaches can provide variety.

However, some species tend to hide on the enclosure floor.

Choose prey that remains accessible.


Crickets

Crickets can be offered cautiously.

They should not be left loose indefinitely because they may:

  • Bite a moulting mantis
  • Hide
  • Stress the mantis
  • Damage a freshly moulted individual

Remove uneaten crickets.


Wild-Caught Prey

Avoid wild insects from uncertain environments.

They may carry:

  • Pesticides
  • Parasites
  • Pathogens

Captive-bred feeders are safer.


Prey Size

Offer prey the mantis can overpower comfortably.

Avoid prey that is:

  • Excessively large
  • Aggressive
  • Capable of injuring the mantis

Young nymphs require especially small feeders.


Feeding Frequency

Feeding frequency varies according to:

  • Age
  • Prey size
  • Temperature
  • Body condition
  • Reproductive status

Young nymphs may feed every day or two.

Adults usually require larger meals less frequently.


Abdomen Condition

A mantis’ abdomen can help guide feeding.

A thin abdomen may indicate the animal is ready to feed.

A very full abdomen suggests additional food may not be necessary immediately.


Overfeeding

Constant heavy feeding is unnecessary.

A permanently swollen abdomen may increase:

  • Physical strain
  • Risk of falls
  • General inactivity

Feed according to condition rather than simply because prey can be offered.


Refusing Food

Temporary fasting can occur before moulting.

A nymph approaching a moult may:

  • Stop feeding
  • Hang upside down
  • Become less active

Remove uneaten feeders and avoid disturbance.


Handling

Ghost Mantises are generally calm enough for occasional gentle handling.

However, handling provides no essential welfare benefit.

Allow the mantis to:

walk onto your hand voluntarily.

Never grab the abdomen.


Handling Area

Handle indoors in a secure room.

Adult males can fly.

Keep away from:

  • Open windows
  • Exterior doors
  • Fans
  • Pets

Jumping

Nymphs can jump surprisingly well.

Keep hands close to a safe surface.

Never handle over:

  • Hard floors
  • High drops
  • Water

Adult Male Flight

Adult males are capable of flight.

They may suddenly take off during maintenance.

Open the enclosure carefully.


Adult Female Flight

Adult females possess wings but are less agile in flight than males.

They may still flutter or move unexpectedly.

Do not assume females are incapable of escaping.


Defensive Behaviour

A threatened Ghost Mantis may:

  • Flatten itself
  • Sway
  • Raise the forelegs
  • Spread its wings
  • Move away rapidly

They usually rely heavily on camouflage rather than aggressive defence.


Dead-Leaf Behaviour

Ghost Mantises often enhance their camouflage by:

  • Hanging at odd angles
  • Folding the legs close to the body
  • Remaining completely motionless
  • Swaying gently

This can make them look remarkably like a dead leaf caught on a branch.


Moulting

Moulting is the most vulnerable stage of mantis development.

Provide:

  • Secure roof grip
  • Correct humidity
  • Adequate height
  • No dangerous live feeders

before every moult.


Premoult Signs

Possible signs include:

  • Loss of appetite
  • Reduced movement
  • Hanging upside down
  • Increased abdomen fullness
  • Avoidance of prey

Do not disturb a suspected premoult mantis.


Remove Feeders

Live feeders should be removed when a moult appears imminent.

Even small prey can:

  • Disturb the mantis
  • Knock it down
  • Bite soft tissue

During Moulting

Never:

  • Handle the mantis
  • Move it
  • Touch the old exoskeleton
  • Introduce prey
  • Spray directly onto it

Allow the process to complete naturally.


After Moulting

The new exoskeleton is initially soft.

The mantis needs time to:

  • Harden
  • Regain full coordination
  • Strengthen its raptorial forelegs

Do not feed immediately after a major moult.


Final Moult

The final moult produces the adult wings.

Adequate space is especially important because the wings must expand and harden correctly.


Wing Expansion

Fresh adults hang while their wings inflate and straighten.

Disturbance or physical obstruction can cause:

  • Crumpled wings
  • Twisted wings
  • Reduced flight ability

Do not touch the wings during this stage.


Mismoults

A mismoult can result from:

  • Insufficient height
  • Poor roof grip
  • Inappropriate humidity
  • Disturbance
  • Physical obstruction
  • Falls

Severe mismoults can be fatal.


Limb Injuries

Nymphs may sometimes survive minor limb damage.

If enough moults remain, some injuries can improve during future growth.

Adults cannot repair major limb problems through another moult.


Social Housing

Ghost Mantises have a reputation for being somewhat less cannibalistic than many mantises.

However:

they are still predators.

Individual housing remains the safest recommendation.


Can Ghost Mantises Be Kept Together?

Some experienced keepers maintain carefully managed groups, particularly young animals, when provided with:

  • Large enclosures
  • Abundant food
  • Many visual barriers
  • Plenty of space

However, cannibalism remains possible.

For a general care sheet, individual housing is safer.


Cannibalism

Cannibalism may occur when:

  • Animals are hungry
  • Space is inadequate
  • Size differences are large
  • One mantis is moulting
  • Adults interact during breeding

Never assume apparently peaceful group housing is risk-free.


Breeding

Ghost Mantises are relatively popular breeding mantises.

Successful breeding requires:

  • Mature male
  • Mature female
  • Correct timing
  • Good female conditioning
  • Careful introduction

Female Maturity

Allow a female to mature and feed well after her final moult before breeding.

A newly adult female is not necessarily reproductively ready immediately.


Male Maturity

Males also require time after the final moult before breeding.

Because adult males have relatively short lives, timing is important.


Preparing the Female

Feed the female well before introduction.

A well-fed female may be less likely to immediately attack the male.

Cannibalism is still possible.


Introducing the Male

Allow the male to approach from:

behind the female.

A spacious breeding enclosure is preferable.

Never force the animals together physically.


Courtship

The male may:

  • Observe the female
  • Move cautiously
  • Approach slowly
  • Jump onto her back

Once mating begins, avoid unnecessary interference.


Sexual Cannibalism

Females may occasionally attack males.

Although Ghost Mantises can be somewhat less cannibalistic than certain larger mantis species, the risk should never be ignored.


Ootheca

After successful mating, the female produces:

oothecae.

An ootheca is a protective egg case containing many eggs.


Ootheca Appearance

Ghost Mantis oothecae are relatively small.

The female may attach them to:

  • Branches
  • Walls
  • Mesh
  • Decorations

Ootheca Production

A healthy female may produce several oothecae during adulthood.

Not every ootheca is necessarily fertile.


Ootheca Incubation

Oothecae can often remain attached to their original surface.

Maintain:

  • Suitable warmth
  • Moderate humidity
  • Excellent ventilation

Avoid soaking the ootheca.


Incubation Temperature

A useful range is approximately:

22–27°C.

Stable conditions are preferable to extreme heating.


Incubation Humidity

Moderate humidity is appropriate.

Allow airflow and avoid heavy condensation.

Excessively wet oothecae may develop fungal problems.


Incubation Time

Ghost Mantis oothecae commonly hatch after approximately:

4–8 weeks

depending upon temperature and other conditions.

Variation is normal.


Hatching

One ootheca may produce numerous small nymphs.

Prepare before hatching.

Have ready:

  • Small rearing containers
  • Fruit fly cultures
  • Fine ventilation
  • Moulting surfaces

Hatchling Diet

Newly hatched nymphs can begin on:

small fruit flies.

Drosophila melanogaster is often ideal initially.

Larger fruit flies can be introduced as the nymphs grow.


Separating Nymphs

For maximum safety, nymphs should eventually be separated.

This reduces the risk of:

  • Cannibalism
  • Moulting interference
  • Feeding competition

Nymph Housing

Each rearing enclosure should provide:

  • Secure roof mesh
  • Good ventilation
  • Suitable humidity
  • Clear moulting space
  • Appropriate tiny prey

Growth

Ghost Mantises grow through a series of moults.

Development speed depends upon:

  • Temperature
  • Feeding
  • Sex
  • Genetics

Males generally reach adulthood earlier than females.


Male and Female Timing

Breeders may find that males mature before females.

This can be managed partly by:

  • Keeping males slightly cooler
  • Avoiding excessive feeding of males
  • Keeping females well fed and appropriately warm

Any adjustment should remain within safe husbandry limits.


Lifespan

Lifespan varies with sex and environmental conditions.

Females generally live longer than males.

The entire life cycle from hatchling to the end of adulthood commonly spans:

roughly a year or somewhat longer, depending upon conditions.


Health

Most captive problems are husbandry related.

Potential issues include:

  • Mismoults
  • Dehydration
  • Falls
  • Feeder injuries
  • Excessive moisture
  • Poor ventilation
  • Overheating
  • Pesticide exposure

Warning Signs

Reasons for concern include:

  • Persistent inability to grip
  • Repeated falls
  • Severe limb deformity
  • Loss of coordination
  • Failed moulting
  • Severe abdominal collapse
  • Prolonged refusal of food unrelated to premoult

Hanging Upside Down

Hanging upside down is normal.

A mantis may do this while:

  • Resting
  • Hunting
  • Preparing to moult

Do not disturb it simply because of this posture.


Cleaning

Routine maintenance should include:

  • Removing dead feeders
  • Removing prey remains
  • Removing droppings
  • Replacing dirty paper
  • Removing mould

Avoid major maintenance immediately before a suspected moult.


Prey Remains

Mantises often discard partially consumed insects.

These remains can:

  • Decay
  • Attract mites
  • Encourage mould

Remove them during regular spot cleaning.


Mites

Small mites may sometimes appear around leftover prey or damp substrate.

Prevention includes:

  • Removing food remains
  • Avoiding excessive moisture
  • Maintaining good ventilation

Do not use insecticides around a mantis enclosure.


Household Chemicals

Keep the enclosure away from:

  • Fly sprays
  • Flea treatments
  • Ant killer
  • Insecticides
  • Pesticide aerosols

Products designed to kill insects can also kill captive mantises.


Aerosols

Avoid spraying near the enclosure:

  • Air fresheners
  • Perfume
  • Cleaning spray
  • Deodorising aerosols

Ventilated enclosures allow airborne chemicals to enter easily.


Pesticide Exposure

Avoid wild-caught feeders from areas that may have been sprayed.

Possible poisoning signs include:

  • Trembling
  • Loss of coordination
  • Falling
  • Weakness
  • Rapid deterioration

Prevention is critical.


Quarantine

New mantises should remain separately housed.

This is easy because individual housing is already recommended.

Monitor:

  • Feeding
  • Coordination
  • Moulting
  • General condition

Captive-Bred Animals

Captive-bred Ghost Mantises should be preferred where available.

Advantages include:

  • Known age
  • Known developmental stage
  • Reduced wild collection
  • Established captive history

Responsible Sourcing

Before obtaining a Ghost Mantis, ask:

  • What instar is it?
  • When did it last moult?
  • What prey is it currently eating?
  • Has it been sexed?
  • Is it captive-bred?

These details make establishing correct husbandry easier.


Legal Considerations

Regulations concerning exotic mantises vary between jurisdictions.

Restrictions may apply to:

  • Possession
  • Breeding
  • Sale
  • Transport
  • Import
  • Export

Always check current local requirements before acquiring or distributing the species.


Never Release Captive Mantises

Never release:

  • Adults
  • Nymphs
  • Oothecae

into the environment.

Non-native predators can potentially affect local ecosystems.


Common Husbandry Mistakes

Common mistakes include:

  • Enclosures that are too short
  • Poor roof grip
  • Insufficient ventilation
  • Excessive humidity
  • Allowing complete dehydration
  • Oversized prey
  • Leaving crickets with a moulting mantis
  • Handling during moulting
  • Overfeeding
  • Keeping multiple animals together without understanding cannibalism risk
  • Direct sunlight
  • Uncontrolled heating
  • Breeding without preparing for hatchlings

Are Ghost Mantises Suitable for Beginners?

Ghost Mantises are often considered one of the more suitable exotic mantises for a well-prepared beginner.

Advantages include:

  • Modest adult size
  • Moderate temperature requirements
  • Generally calm behaviour
  • Attractive camouflage
  • Straightforward feeding
  • Relatively manageable breeding

However, the keeper must still understand:

  • Live-food care
  • Moulting requirements
  • Individual housing
  • Ventilation
  • Humidity control

No mantis is maintenance-free.


Educational Value

The Ghost Mantis is particularly interesting for observing:

  • Dead-leaf mimicry
  • Ambush predation
  • Raptorial feeding
  • Sexual dimorphism
  • Moulting
  • Wing development
  • Courtship
  • Ootheca production
  • Defensive camouflage

Its resemblance to dried vegetation is one of the most impressive examples of camouflage among commonly kept insects.


Responsible Ownership

Before obtaining a Ghost Mantis, make sure you can provide:

  • A suitable individual enclosure
  • Live feeder insects
  • Reliable ventilation
  • Moderate humidity
  • Appropriate warmth
  • Secure moulting surfaces
  • Space for future enclosure upgrades

Breeders must also prepare for multiple offspring from each successful ootheca.


Summary

The Ghost Mantis (Phyllocrania paradoxa) is a remarkable African mantis whose flattened body, lobed legs and prominent head crest create an extraordinary resemblance to a curled dead leaf.

Successful husbandry requires a tall, well-ventilated enclosure, secure overhead grip, moderate warmth, moderate humidity and appropriately sized live prey.

Ghost Mantises thrive best when humidity is balanced with excellent airflow. They should not be maintained in permanently wet, stagnant conditions.

Flies are particularly useful feeders, while very young nymphs can begin on flightless fruit flies. Crickets and other ground-dwelling feeders should be used cautiously and removed if uneaten.

Moulting is the most vulnerable period of development. The mantis requires sufficient vertical clearance to hang completely free, and all live prey should be removed when a moult appears imminent.

Although Ghost Mantises are sometimes described as relatively communal compared with other mantises, cannibalism remains possible. Individual housing is therefore the safest general recommendation.

Adult males are slimmer, possess feathery antennae and are capable of stronger flight than females. Nymphs can often be sexed by abdominal segment count, with females typically showing six visible segments and males eight.

Breeding results in oothecae attached to branches or other surfaces. These can produce numerous nymphs, so feeder cultures and rearing containers should be prepared before hatching.

With suitable ventilation, feeding, hydration and moulting space, Phyllocrania paradoxa is one of the most manageable and visually fascinating mantises available to invertebrate keepers.


IMPORTANT INFORMATION

This care sheet provides general husbandry guidance and does not replace current species-specific research or applicable wildlife and import legislation.

Ghost Mantises are predatory insects. Individual housing is the safest general recommendation because cannibalism can occur.

Provide secure overhead grip and substantial unobstructed vertical space for moulting. Never handle or disturb a mantis while it is actively moulting or immediately afterwards.

Maintain moderate humidity with excellent ventilation rather than permanently wet, stagnant conditions.

Offer appropriately sized live prey and remove potentially dangerous uneaten feeders when moulting is approaching.

Adult males can fly, so enclosure maintenance and handling should always take place indoors in a secure room.

Never release captive adults, nymphs or oothecae into the environment.

Always verify current regulations concerning possession, breeding, sale, transport, import and export in your jurisdiction.

Information correct at the date of publication.

reptilecommunity.com | Revised: August 2026