Giant African Millipede (Archispirostreptus gigas) Care Sheet
The Giant African Millipede is one of the largest millipedes in the world and one of the best-known millipede species maintained in captivity. Archispirostreptus gigas is a large, predominantly detritivorous terrestrial invertebrate native to tropical and subtropical regions of East Africa.
Despite their impressive size and enormous number of legs, Giant African Millipedes are generally slow-moving and non-aggressive. They do not possess venom and cannot sting. When threatened, they typically coil tightly and may release defensive chemicals from glands along the sides of the body.
Successful captive husbandry revolves around one particularly important principle: the substrate is not simply bedding — it is also a major part of the animal’s diet. A deep layer of nutritious decomposing hardwood leaves and decayed wood mixed with suitable soil is therefore fundamental to long-term health.
Quick Facts
Scientific name: Archispirostreptus gigas
Common name: Giant African Millipede
Family: Spirostreptidae
Class: Diplopoda
Origin: East Africa
Adult length: Commonly around 20–30 cm
Body width: Approximately 2–3 cm in large adults
Lifespan: Commonly around 5–7 years, potentially longer under favourable conditions
Diet: Primarily detritivorous
Activity: Primarily nocturnal and crepuscular
Lifestyle: Terrestrial and fossorial
Experience level: Beginner to intermediate
Venomous: No
Handling: Possible occasionally with appropriate precautions
Social housing: Generally possible
What Is a Millipede?
Millipedes belong to the arthropod class:
Diplopoda
They are not insects.
They are also very different from centipedes.
One of the most obvious differences is their leg arrangement.
Most adult millipede body segments carry:
two pairs of legs
whereas centipedes possess one pair of legs per leg-bearing body segment.
Millipede vs Centipede
Although their names are often confused, millipedes and centipedes have very different lifestyles.
Millipedes are generally:
- Slow moving
- Detritivorous
- Non-venomous
- Defensive rather than predatory
Centipedes are generally:
- Faster
- Predatory
- Equipped with venom-delivering forcipules
A Giant African Millipede should never be housed with a large centipede.
Do They Really Have 1,000 Legs?
No.
Despite the name “millipede,” Archispirostreptus gigas does not literally possess 1,000 legs.
The number varies according to:
- Age
- Sex
- Number of body segments
As the animal grows and moults, additional body segments and legs can develop.
Natural Distribution
Archispirostreptus gigas originates from East Africa.
It occurs in warm environments where decomposing plant material accumulates.
Suitable natural microhabitats can contain:
- Leaf litter
- Decaying hardwood
- Moist soil
- Fallen vegetation
- Shaded ground
- Rotting organic material
These environmental characteristics are important when designing a captive enclosure.
Natural Lifestyle
Giant African Millipedes spend considerable time:
- Beneath leaf litter
- Inside substrate
- Beneath wood
- Feeding on decomposing vegetation
- Exploring after dark
They play an ecological role in the breakdown of dead plant material and nutrient cycling.
Appearance
Adults typically possess:
- Long cylindrical body
- Glossy dark brown to black colouration
- Numerous body segments
- Large numbers of legs
- Short antennae
- Strong rounded exoskeleton
The legs may appear reddish or brown depending upon the individual and lighting.
Adult Size
Giant African Millipedes are among the largest living millipedes.
Adults commonly reach approximately:
20–30 cm in length
although individual size varies.
Large animals are substantial enough that enclosure dimensions should be planned around adult size rather than juvenile size.
Lifespan
A lifespan of approximately:
5–7 years
is often cited for captive Giant African Millipedes.
Some individuals may live longer under favourable conditions.
Age at acquisition can be difficult to determine, particularly with imported adults.
Housing
A secure terrestrial enclosure is required.
Suitable housing can include:
- Glass terrariums
- Large plastic invertebrate enclosures
- Modified storage containers
- Purpose-built vivariums
The enclosure should provide:
- Generous floor area
- Deep substrate
- Leaf litter
- Decayed hardwood
- Hiding places
- Appropriate humidity
- Ventilation
- Secure escape prevention
Enclosure Size
For one or two adults, an enclosure around:
60 × 30 × 30 cm or larger
provides a useful general starting point.
Larger groups require proportionally more space.
Floor area and substrate depth are particularly valuable.
Enclosure Height
Some height is useful, but Giant African Millipedes do not require a tall arboreal enclosure.
Excessive unused height can actually increase injury risk if an animal climbs and falls.
Prioritise:
- Floor space
- Substrate depth
- Low enrichment
- Safe hiding places
Secure Lid
Giant African Millipedes can climb surprisingly well on rough surfaces and silicone enclosure seams.
A secure lid is therefore necessary.
Ensure:
- Ventilation openings are appropriately sized
- Doors close securely
- Decorations do not create escape routes
- Cable openings are sealed
Ventilation
Appropriate airflow is important.
The enclosure should remain humid without becoming:
- Stagnant
- Permanently saturated
- Mould-ridden
Cross-ventilation can be particularly useful.
Humidity and ventilation must be balanced rather than treating them as opposites.
Temperature
A useful general captive range is approximately:
22–26°C
Moderate nighttime cooling is usually acceptable.
Avoid prolonged exposure to:
- Excessive heat
- Very cold temperatures
- Rapid temperature fluctuations
Heating
Supplemental heating may be unnecessary in a warm home.
If additional heat is required, use:
- Gentle external heating
- Thermostatic control
- Heating applied to only part of the enclosure
This allows the millipede to select its preferred temperature.
Avoid Bottom Heating
Heating directly beneath the entire enclosure is generally undesirable.
Millipedes naturally burrow to escape unsuitable surface conditions.
If the hottest area is beneath the substrate, a burrowing animal may move towards increasing heat.
Side or rear heating is generally preferable where supplemental heat is necessary.
Direct Sunlight
Never place the enclosure in direct sunlight.
Temperatures inside glass or plastic accommodation can rise rapidly.
Keep the enclosure away from:
- Sunny windows
- Radiators
- Strong drafts
- Air-conditioning outlets
Humidity
Giant African Millipedes require humid conditions.
A useful general range is approximately:
70–80% relative humidity
although substrate condition and animal behaviour are more useful than obsessively chasing one exact percentage.
The substrate should remain moist but not waterlogged.
Moisture Gradient
Providing some variation in moisture is beneficial.
The enclosure can contain:
- Moist deeper substrate
- Slightly drier surface areas
- Humid retreats
This allows the animal to choose between different microclimates.
Misting
Light misting can help maintain humidity.
The exact frequency depends upon:
- Ventilation
- Temperature
- Substrate
- Room humidity
Do not repeatedly saturate the entire enclosure.
Substrate
Substrate is one of the most important aspects of Giant African Millipede care.
A suitable substrate can contain:
- Fertiliser-free organic topsoil
- Well-decayed hardwood
- Decomposed hardwood leaves
- Additional leaf litter
- Other safe organic material
Avoid treating plain coco fibre as a complete long-term substrate.
Substrate Is Food
For a detritivorous millipede:
substrate is part of the diet.
The animal consumes decomposing organic material within it.
A substrate consisting only of nutritionally poor bedding fails to reproduce this essential component of its natural ecology.
Substrate Depth
Provide substrate at least as deep as the millipede’s body is wide and ideally substantially deeper.
For adults, approximately:
10–15 cm or more
is a useful target.
Deeper substrate provides:
- Burrowing opportunities
- Stable humidity
- Moulting space
- Edible decomposing material
Decayed Hardwood
Well-rotted hardwood is an important component of a nutritious millipede substrate.
Suitable wood should be:
- Hardwood
- Thoroughly decayed
- Soft and crumbly
- Free from pesticides
- Free from chemical treatment
It should break apart relatively easily by hand.
Suitable Hardwood
Depending upon local availability, suitable deciduous hardwood can include species such as:
- Oak
- Beech
- Maple
- Birch
The wood should be naturally decomposed and collected only from safe uncontaminated locations.
Correct identification is important.
Wood to Avoid
Avoid:
- Pressure-treated timber
- Painted wood
- Chemically treated wood
- Plywood
- MDF
- Chipboard
- Resinous fresh softwoods
Do not assume that any rotting piece of timber is safe.
Leaf Litter
Decomposed hardwood leaves are another major dietary component.
Suitable leaves can include:
- Oak
- Beech
- Maple
- Other confirmed safe deciduous hardwood leaves
Provide both:
- Crushed decomposed leaves within the substrate
- Whole leaves across the surface
Collecting Natural Materials
Only collect leaves and wood from areas known to be free from:
- Pesticides
- Herbicides
- Fertilisers
- Road pollution
- Industrial contamination
- Animal treatments
Avoid collecting immediately beside busy roads or intensively managed agricultural land.
Coco Fibre
Coco fibre can help:
- Retain moisture
- Improve substrate structure
However, it contains very little of the decomposing hardwood material millipedes naturally consume.
It should therefore not be relied upon as the sole long-term substrate.
Substrate Replacement
Do not replace all substrate unnecessarily.
Because the substrate itself contains food and established organic material, complete replacement can remove a major nutritional resource.
Instead:
- Spot-clean waste
- Remove spoiled surface food
- Add fresh decomposed leaves
- Add decayed hardwood
- Replace portions of depleted substrate when required
Never Dig Up a Moulting Millipede
This is extremely important.
A millipede may disappear underground for an extended period while preparing to moult.
Do not dig it up to check whether it is alive.
Disturbing a moulting chamber can seriously injure or kill the animal.
Hides
Provide multiple low hiding places.
Suitable options include:
- Cork bark
- Decayed wood
- Leaf litter
- Lightweight artificial hides
- Bark slabs
Millipedes should always be able to retreat from light.
Heavy Decorations
Avoid unstable heavy objects.
Millipedes frequently burrow beneath furnishings.
A heavy rock or ornament that collapses into an excavated tunnel can crush the animal.
Heavy structures should be securely supported from the enclosure base if used at all.
Climbing
Giant African Millipedes will sometimes climb:
- Cork bark
- Branches
- Enclosure walls
- Silicone seams
Provide low climbing opportunities if desired.
Avoid tall structures that could result in dangerous falls.
Water
Provide a shallow dish containing clean fresh water.
The dish should be:
- Stable
- Shallow
- Easy to enter and leave
- Cleaned regularly
Juveniles require particularly shallow water access.
Lighting
Specialist lighting is generally unnecessary.
Provide a normal day/night cycle.
Ambient room lighting is usually adequate.
The enclosure should contain shaded retreats at all times.
UVB
UVB lighting is not generally considered essential for routine Giant African Millipede husbandry.
If lighting is used for plants, ensure that it does not:
- Overheat the enclosure
- Excessively dry the substrate
- Remove access to dark retreats
Diet
The foundation of the diet should be:
decomposing hardwood leaves and decayed hardwood within the substrate.
Supplementary fresh foods can then provide additional dietary variety.
This is preferable to treating vegetables as the entire diet.
Supplemental Vegetables
Suitable supplemental foods can include:
- Courgette
- Squash
- Sweet potato
- Carrot
- Mushroom
- Cucumber occasionally
- Leafy greens
Rotate foods rather than relying upon a single favourite.
Fruit
Small amounts of fruit can be offered occasionally.
Examples include:
- Apple
- Pear
- Melon
- Berries
Fruit should not dominate the diet because it:
- Contains considerable sugar
- Spoils rapidly
- Can attract pests
Remove leftovers promptly.
Cucumber
Cucumber is readily accepted by many millipedes.
However, it is mostly water and should not become the staple diet.
A millipede fed primarily cucumber is not receiving an appropriate representation of its natural detritivorous diet.
Mushroom
Mushrooms are often readily accepted.
They can form part of the supplementary diet alongside:
- Decayed wood
- Leaf litter
- Vegetables
As with all fresh foods, remove leftovers before excessive decomposition or mould develops.
Protein
Millipedes may consume small amounts of protein-rich material.
Occasional appropriate protein sources can be offered in moderation.
Options used in captive husbandry include small quantities of:
- Fish flakes
- Appropriate invertebrate diets
- Other unseasoned protein-containing foods
Protein should remain supplementary rather than replacing the detritus-based diet.
Calcium
A calcium source can be made available.
Common options include:
- Cuttlebone
- Calcium carbonate from an appropriate source
Calcium can support exoskeleton development, particularly around growth and moulting.
It should complement rather than replace a nutritious substrate.
Cuttlebone
Plain natural cuttlebone can be:
- Placed on the substrate
- Broken into pieces
- Lightly crushed
Avoid flavoured or chemically treated products.
Foods to Avoid
Avoid:
- Salty foods
- Seasoned foods
- Processed human food
- Sugary confectionery
- Pesticide-contaminated produce
- Mouldy food
Fresh produce should be washed before feeding.
Feeding Frequency
Supplemental fresh food can be offered several times per week in appropriate quantities.
Remember that a correctly prepared enclosure already contains food in the form of:
- Leaf litter
- Decayed hardwood
- Organic substrate
Remove supplementary food before it becomes heavily spoiled.
Feeding Dish
A shallow lightweight dish can make cleaning easier.
However, placing some foods directly on clean leaf litter can also encourage natural foraging.
Avoid heavy ceramic dishes positioned where a climbing millipede could fall onto them.
Nocturnal Behaviour
Giant African Millipedes are often most active:
- At night
- During evening
- Following misting
- Under humid conditions
During the day they may remain hidden or buried.
Burrowing
Burrowing is completely normal.
A millipede may burrow to:
- Rest
- Regulate moisture
- Avoid light
- Moult
- Explore food within the substrate
Do not repeatedly excavate hidden animals.
Moulting
Millipedes must shed their exoskeleton to grow.
They usually moult underground within a protected chamber.
During this period, the animal is extremely vulnerable.
Signs of Premoult
Possible signs include:
- Reduced activity
- Reduced appetite
- Extended periods underground
- Complete disappearance into substrate
These signs do not automatically indicate illness.
If the millipede disappears, leave it undisturbed unless there is a genuine emergency.
During a Moult
A moulting millipede should not be:
- Handled
- Dug up
- Exposed
- Moved unnecessarily
The newly formed exoskeleton is initially soft.
Physical disturbance can cause serious deformity or death.
Eating the Old Exoskeleton
After moulting, a millipede may consume portions of its shed exoskeleton.
This is normal.
The material contains nutrients that can be recycled by the animal.
Do not immediately remove it.
Moulting Underground
The fact that moulting occurs underground is one of the reasons deep substrate is essential.
An enclosure with only a thin layer of bedding prevents an important natural behaviour and can increase moulting problems.
Missing Legs
Millipedes can occasionally lose legs because of:
- Injury
- Poor moults
- Physical accidents
Young growing animals may regenerate some damaged appendages across later moults.
Prevention remains preferable.
Handling
Giant African Millipedes are generally calm enough for occasional gentle handling.
However, handling is not necessary for their wellbeing.
Always handle:
- Close to a surface
- With clean hands
- Without squeezing
- Without pulling on legs
Allow the animal to walk across the hands naturally.
Falls
Falls can cause serious injury.
Although the exoskeleton appears tough, a large millipede can be damaged by falling onto a hard floor.
When handling:
- Sit down
- Keep hands low
- Handle over a soft surface
- Avoid sudden movements
Defensive Coiling
When threatened, a Giant African Millipede may curl tightly into a spiral.
This protects:
- Legs
- Head
- Softer underside
A tightly coiled animal should be left alone rather than forcibly unrolled.
Defensive Secretions
Giant African Millipedes can release defensive chemicals from specialised glands along the body.
These secretions help deter predators.
They may:
- Smell unpleasant
- Stain skin
- Irritate sensitive skin
- Irritate eyes or mucous membranes
Wash hands after handling.
Skin Staining
Defensive secretions may temporarily stain human skin.
This can appear:
- Brown
- Yellow
- Orange
Staining generally fades with time.
Do not use harsh chemicals on the skin in an attempt to remove it.
Eye Contact
Avoid touching the eyes after handling a millipede.
If defensive secretion enters the eye:
- Rinse thoroughly with clean water
- Remove contact lenses where appropriate
- Seek medical advice if irritation is significant or persistent
Hand Washing
Wash hands after contact with:
- Millipedes
- Substrate
- Defensive secretions
- Decaying food
- Enclosure furnishings
Also ensure hands are free from harmful chemical residues before handling.
Social Housing
Giant African Millipedes can generally be maintained in compatible groups.
Provide:
- Sufficient floor space
- Deep substrate
- Abundant food
- Multiple hides
However, group housing is not necessary for basic welfare.
Mixed-Species Housing
Mixed-species displays should be approached cautiously.
Do not house Giant African Millipedes with:
- Predatory centipedes
- Scorpions
- Tarantulas
- Other animals capable of attacking them
Even apparently harmless cleanup organisms should be researched for compatibility.
Sexing
Adult Giant African Millipedes can often be sexed by examining the legs around the seventh body segment.
Males possess modified reproductive structures known as:
gonopods.
This can create the appearance of a gap where ordinary walking legs would otherwise be present.
Male
A mature male typically shows modified legs around the seventh body segment.
These structures function during reproduction.
Sexing should be performed gently without forcefully bending or restraining the animal.
Female
Females lack the same externally visible gonopod arrangement found in mature males.
Experienced keepers can often sex large adults relatively easily.
Juveniles may be more difficult.
Breeding
Breeding can occur when mature males and females are maintained under suitable conditions.
Successful reproduction requires:
- Healthy adults
- Appropriate temperature
- Suitable humidity
- Deep nutritious substrate
Females deposit eggs within the substrate.
Eggs
Millipede eggs are deposited underground.
Females may construct protective material around individual eggs.
Do not repeatedly excavate the substrate searching for eggs.
Natural incubation within stable substrate is generally preferable.
Juveniles
Young millipedes are considerably smaller and more delicate than adults.
They require:
- Nutritious substrate
- Decomposed leaves
- Decayed hardwood
- Stable moisture
- Appropriate warmth
- Fine escape-proof ventilation
Tiny juveniles can be surprisingly difficult to spot.
Juvenile Diet
For juveniles, the substrate is particularly important.
Young millipedes feed heavily upon decomposing organic material.
Ensure continual availability of:
- Rotten hardwood
- Decomposed hardwood leaves
- Appropriate organic substrate
Supplementary vegetables alone are insufficient.
Growth
Juveniles grow through repeated moults.
With each developmental stage they can gain:
- Additional segments
- Additional legs
- Increased body size
Growth is relatively slow compared with many insects.
Health
Potential husbandry-related problems include:
- Dehydration
- Excessively wet substrate
- Poor nutrition
- Failed moults
- Physical injury
- Chemical exposure
- Mite outbreaks
Appropriate substrate prevents many common problems.
Warning Signs
Possible reasons for concern include:
- Persistent inability to walk
- Severe loss of coordination
- Significant physical damage
- Unusual limpness when not moulting
- Persistent surface inactivity combined with deterioration
- Failed moult
- Severe unexplained body shrinkage
Always review environmental conditions first.
Do Not Assume a Buried Millipede Is Dead
A millipede can remain underground for a surprisingly long period.
It may be:
- Resting
- Moulting
- Feeding
- Responding to environmental conditions
Digging it up can turn a normal period of inactivity into a serious injury.
Death
A deceased millipede may eventually develop:
- Strong decomposition odour
- Loss of normal body integrity
- Progressive deterioration
However, uncertainty should be handled cautiously because moulting animals are exceptionally vulnerable.
Avoid manipulating a buried or apparently moulting animal simply to test for movement.
Mites
Tiny mites may appear in a humid detritivore enclosure.
Many are harmless organisms feeding on:
- Decaying material
- Food remains
- Fungi
A small population is not automatically a health problem.
Large numbers attached directly to the millipede may require investigation.
Springtails
Springtails can be useful cleanup organisms.
They consume:
- Fungal growth
- Decaying organic matter
- Small food particles
They can help maintain a biologically active enclosure but do not replace routine husbandry.
Bioactive Housing
Giant African Millipedes are well suited to naturalistic enclosures.
A bioactive-style setup can include:
- Deep organic substrate
- Decayed hardwood
- Leaf litter
- Cork bark
- Springtails
- Suitable plants
Any plants used must be free from pesticides and fertiliser residues accessible to the animals.
Cleaning
Spot-clean regularly.
Remove:
- Spoiled supplementary food
- Excessive mould
- Obvious waste
- Contaminated material
Avoid sterilising the enclosure unnecessarily.
A millipede habitat naturally contains decomposing organic matter.
Mould
Small amounts of fungal activity within decomposing organic substrate are not necessarily abnormal.
Excessive mould can indicate:
- Too much supplementary food
- Poor ventilation
- Excessive moisture
Remove heavily mouldy food and review husbandry.
Substrate Maintenance
Over time, edible material within the substrate becomes depleted.
Regularly replenish:
- Decayed hardwood
- Decomposed hardwood leaves
- Leaf litter
Do not wait until the substrate has become nutritionally exhausted.
Chemical Sensitivity
Millipedes can be extremely vulnerable to chemical contamination.
Keep them away from:
- Insecticides
- Flea treatments
- Pesticides
- Cleaning sprays
- Air fresheners
- Treated wood
- Contaminated soil
Never use insecticide inside or around the enclosure.
Quarantine
New millipedes should initially be maintained separately from established animals.
Monitor:
- Activity
- Feeding
- Mites
- Injuries
- General condition
Quarantine is particularly useful when animals have been imported or have uncertain histories.
Wild-Caught Animals
Historically, many Giant African Millipedes in the pet trade have originated from wild collection.
Wild-caught animals may have:
- Unknown age
- Parasites
- Injuries
- Collection stress
- Unknown reproductive status
Captive-bred animals should be supported where available.
Captive-Bred Animals
Captive breeding offers advantages including:
- Reduced collection pressure
- Known captive history
- Better traceability
- Potentially known age
Responsible captive production should be encouraged.
Responsible Sourcing
Before purchasing, ask about:
- Scientific identification
- Captive-bred or wild-caught status
- Approximate size
- Previous substrate
- Diet
- Origin
Avoid sellers providing inappropriate advice such as maintaining the animal permanently on plain dry bedding with vegetables alone.
Legal Considerations
Regulations concerning millipede possession, import and movement vary between countries and regions.
Restrictions may apply because non-native millipedes can present:
- Agricultural concerns
- Environmental concerns
- Invasive-species risks
Always check current legislation before obtaining or transporting this species.
Never Release Captive Millipedes
Never release captive Giant African Millipedes outdoors.
Captive animals may:
- Be outside their natural range
- Carry microorganisms
- Potentially affect local ecosystems
If an animal can no longer be maintained, arrange responsible rehoming.
Common Husbandry Mistakes
Common mistakes include:
- Keeping the millipede on plain coco fibre
- Providing too little substrate
- Failing to include decayed hardwood
- Failing to provide decomposed hardwood leaves
- Feeding vegetables as the entire diet
- Allowing the enclosure to become completely dry
- Maintaining permanently waterlogged substrate
- Poor ventilation
- Digging up moulting animals
- Using contaminated natural materials
- Providing unstable heavy decorations
- Excessive handling
Correcting these issues dramatically improves long-term husbandry.
Responsible Ownership
Before obtaining a Giant African Millipede, consider:
- Large adult size
- Multi-year lifespan
- Requirement for deep nutritious substrate
- Need for decayed hardwood and leaf litter
- Humidity requirements
- Potential defensive secretions
- Burrowing behaviour
- Long periods underground
- Availability of safe natural materials
This species is relatively straightforward to maintain only when its detritivorous ecology is properly understood.
Summary
The Giant African Millipede (Archispirostreptus gigas) is one of the world’s largest and most impressive millipedes. Its generally calm nature, substantial adult size and fascinating behaviour have made it a popular species among invertebrate enthusiasts.
Successful husbandry depends heavily upon providing deep, nutritious substrate containing decomposed hardwood leaves and well-decayed hardwood. This material is not merely enclosure decoration — it forms a fundamental component of the animal’s natural diet.
The enclosure should also provide warm temperatures, high but well-ventilated humidity, clean drinking water, secure hiding places, leaf litter and occasional supplementary vegetables and other appropriate foods.
Moulting occurs underground, and buried animals should never be excavated simply because they have disappeared for an extended period.
Although generally harmless, Giant African Millipedes can produce defensive secretions capable of staining or irritating skin and sensitive tissues. Hands should therefore be washed after contact, and eye contact should be avoided.
With an appropriately prepared detritivore enclosure and a continual supply of decomposing hardwood material, Archispirostreptus gigas can be an exceptionally interesting and comparatively gentle invertebrate to observe.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
This care sheet provides general husbandry guidance and does not replace current species-specific research, specialist veterinary advice where available or applicable wildlife and import legislation.
Correctly prepared substrate is fundamental to millipede nutrition. Plain coco fibre or soil supplemented only with vegetables should not be considered a complete long-term diet.
Defensive secretions can irritate skin and particularly sensitive tissues. Wash hands after handling and avoid touching the eyes.
Always verify current regulations concerning possession, collection, sale, transport, import and export in your jurisdiction.
Information correct at the date of publication.
reptilecommunity.com | Revised: August 2026