Gidgee Skink (Egernia stokesii) Care Sheet
The Gidgee Skink (Egernia stokesii) is a robust, heavily scaled Australian skink renowned for its spiny tail, strong social behaviour and close association with rocky crevices and hollow timber.
Unlike many skinks that are primarily solitary, Gidgee Skinks can form stable social and family groups, making their natural behaviour particularly fascinating. However, this does not mean unfamiliar animals can simply be placed together. Social compatibility, adequate space and careful observation remain essential.
Gidgee Skinks are diurnal baskers requiring intense heat, appropriate UVB and bright visible light. Their enclosure should contain extensive secure rockwork or equivalent crevice structures so that animals can retreat into tight shelters while still having access to open basking areas.
They are omnivorous and require a carefully balanced diet combining appropriate plant material with varied invertebrates.
With correct husbandry, Gidgee Skinks can be exceptionally long-lived. They should therefore be considered a substantial long-term commitment.
Quick Facts
Scientific name: Egernia stokesii
Common names: Gidgee Skink, Stokes’ Skink, Spiny-Tailed Skink
Family: Scincidae
Native range: Australia
Lifestyle: Terrestrial, saxicolous/rock-associated
Activity: Diurnal
Adult length: Approximately 25–35 cm total length, depending upon form/locality
Lifespan: 20+ years possible; potentially considerably longer with excellent care
Experience level: Intermediate
Diet: Omnivorous
Adult enclosure: Approximately 120 × 60 × 60 cm minimum for one adult; larger strongly preferred, particularly for groups
Basking surface: Approximately 40–45°C
Warm ambient: Approximately 28–32°C
Cool area: Approximately 22–26°C
Night temperature: Approximately 18–22°C
UVB: Essential
Target basking UVI: Approximately 3–5
Practical UVB: Moderate-to-high output linear T5 HO UVB system positioned to achieve the required UVI
Humidity: Generally relatively dry with access to more humid sheltered microclimates
Water: Fresh water continuously available
Handling: Usually manageable when established, but observation and voluntary interaction preferred
Social housing: Possible in established compatible groups; careful management essential
Reproduction: Viviparous — gives birth to live young
Natural Distribution
Gidgee Skinks are native to:
Australia
and occur across arid and semi-arid regions.
Different populations and forms occupy somewhat different environments, so locality information should be retained whenever known.
Australian Origin and Captive Provenance
Australia has extremely strict controls concerning the export of native wildlife.
Animals legitimately established in European collections generally descend from historical captive populations rather than recent legal commercial exports from Australia.
For this reason, responsible keepers should retain:
- Purchase records
- Breeder information
- Parentage where available
- Identification records
- Any relevant import or transfer documentation
Do not assume that because an Australian reptile is offered for sale, its provenance is automatically irrelevant.
Natural Habitat
Gidgee Skinks are strongly associated with:
- Rocky outcrops
- Rock crevices
- Dry woodland
- Arid scrub
- Fallen timber
- Hollow logs
- Cracks and sheltered cavities
Crevice Specialists
Their body shape and spiny tail are well suited to life inside narrow retreats.
When threatened, an animal may wedge itself firmly into a crevice.
The enclosure should therefore provide:
multiple secure, tight-fitting retreats.
Appearance
Gidgee Skinks have:
- Robust bodies
- Powerful limbs
- Strong claws
- Rough keeled scales
- Broad heads
- Distinctively spiny tails
Spiny Tail
The tail can help an animal anchor itself inside a retreat and may make extraction by a predator difficult.
This is one reason a frightened Gidgee Skink should never be forcibly pulled from a crevice.
Adult Size
Depending upon population and form, adults generally reach approximately:
25–35 cm total length.
Behaviour
Normal behaviour includes:
- Basking
- Exploring
- Feeding
- Resting in crevices
- Climbing over rocks and logs
- Social interactions
- Retreating rapidly when disturbed
Diurnal Activity
Gidgee Skinks are:
day-active baskers.
Their captive environment should provide a clear combination of:
heat + UVB + bright visible light
during the daytime.
Intelligence and Routine
Established animals may learn:
- Feeding routines
- Keeper movements
- Familiar enclosure activity
Some become extremely confident in captivity.
Handling
Many established Gidgee Skinks tolerate careful handling.
However, frequent handling is not necessary for good welfare.
Where possible, encourage:
voluntary interaction.
Never Pull From a Crevice
A frightened animal may brace itself inside a retreat.
Do not pull it out by:
- Tail
- Legs
- Body
unless removal is genuinely necessary for veterinary or emergency reasons.
Enclosure Size
For a single adult, approximately:
120 × 60 × 60 cm
should be considered a practical minimum.
Larger accommodation such as:
150–180 × 60–90 × 60–90 cm
provides substantially more opportunity for natural behaviour.
Group Enclosures
Social housing requires considerably more space.
There should be enough room for:
- Multiple basking positions
- Multiple feeding locations
- Numerous crevices
- Visual separation
- Individual retreat
Do not calculate group accommodation simply by adding another animal to an enclosure designed for one.
Floor Space
Prioritise:
floor area and usable structure.
Moderate height remains useful for:
- Rock ledges
- Logs
- Raised basking platforms
Enclosure Security
The enclosure should be:
- Strong
- Escape-proof
- Well ventilated
Rockwork
Rock-style structure is one of the most important enclosure features.
Provide:
- Flat ledges
- Narrow crevices
- Larger caves
- Elevated basking surfaces
- Shaded retreats
Natural Versus Artificial Rock
Both can work.
Artificial structures may reduce weight while still providing excellent crevices.
Whatever is used must be:
secure and stable.
Heavy Rock Safety
Never simply stack heavy rocks on loose substrate.
Animals may dig beneath them.
Heavy structures should be supported from the enclosure base or otherwise made incapable of collapsing.
Crevice Width
Provide different-sized retreats.
Some should allow the skink to feel:
closely enclosed
rather than sitting inside a huge open cave.
Warm and Cool Retreats
Provide secure crevices at different temperatures.
An animal should never have to choose between:
feeling safe and thermoregulating properly.
Substrate
Suitable naturalistic substrate can include:
- Organic topsoil
- Washed play sand
- Clay-containing soil
Substrate Depth
Approximately:
10–20 cm
is useful, with deeper areas where appropriate.
Digging
Gidgee Skinks are not specialised burrowers like Sandfish Skinks, but they may:
- Dig
- Rearrange substrate
- Investigate beneath furnishings
Moisture Gradient
Most exposed substrate can remain relatively dry.
Protected deeper areas can retain:
slightly greater moisture.
Furnishings
Additional furnishings can include:
- Cork bark
- Hollow logs
- Branches
- Leaf litter
- Tough safe plants
Enrichment
Useful enrichment includes:
- Live-prey hunting
- Food searching
- Multiple basking levels
- Different substrate textures
- Scent trails
- Leaf litter
- Rearranged feeding locations
Temperature Gradient
Gidgee Skinks require a strong daytime thermal gradient.
Basking Surface
Provide a basking surface around:
40–45°C
Warm Ambient
Maintain warmer daytime air around:
28–32°C
Cool Area
Provide cooler areas around:
22–26°C
Night Temperature
Night temperatures can generally fall to approximately:
18–22°C
for healthy adults.
Seasonal Conditions
Healthy established animals may experience seasonal variation in:
- Temperature
- Day length
- Feeding
- Activity
particularly where breeding is intended.
Surface Temperature Is Not Air Temperature
A rock measuring:
43°C
does not mean that enclosure air should reach 43°C.
The objective is:
hot basking surface → warm zone → cool zone → sheltered crevice.
Heating
Use overhead daytime heating.
Suitable options include:
- Halogen flood lamps
- Appropriate incandescent basking lamps
Why Overhead Heat?
Natural solar heat arrives primarily from above.
This also allows shaded crevices and lower substrate to remain cooler.
Broad Basking Area
The basking area should heat a useful proportion of the animal’s body.
Avoid one tiny, excessively concentrated hot spot.
Multiple Animals
When housing a compatible group, provide:
multiple usable basking locations.
One dominant animal should not be able to monopolise the only suitable site.
Heat Mats
Heat mats should not be relied upon as the primary daytime heat source.
Heat Safety
Internally mounted lamps must be appropriately guarded.
Thermostat
Heating equipment should be appropriately controlled while temperatures are independently monitored.
Measuring Temperature
Use:
digital thermometers
for ambient temperatures.
Use an:
infrared thermometer
to check basking surfaces.
UVB
UVB should be considered:
essential for comprehensive Gidgee Skink husbandry.
These are diurnal Australian basking reptiles naturally exposed to substantial sunlight.
Target UVI
At the principal basking position, aim approximately for:
UVI 3–5
while providing progressively lower exposure and complete shade elsewhere.
What Is UVI?
UVI means Ultraviolet Index.
It tells us approximately how much biologically useful ultraviolet radiation actually reaches the animal.
Why Not Just Give a UVB Percentage?
Because:
UVB percentage and UVI are not the same thing.
A tube labelled 6%, 10%, 12% or 14% does not tell you how much UV actually reaches your skink.
Exposure changes according to:
- Distance
- Mesh
- Reflector
- Lamp model
- Lamp age
- Height of the basking surface
UV Gradient
A useful enclosure should provide approximately:
Primary basking area: UVI 3–5
Surrounding illuminated area: UVI 1–3
Partial shade: below UVI 1
Deep crevices: approaching UVI 0
What UVB Lamp Do I Actually Buy?
For most adult Gidgee Skink enclosures, look for a:
QUALITY LINEAR T5 HO UVB SYSTEM
rather than relying upon a small compact UVB bulb.
Depending upon enclosure height, mounting distance and mesh, products broadly within the:
6–12% UVB class
may be appropriate.
Why Could Either 6% or 12% Work?
Because distance changes exposure.
For example:
a moderate-output lamp mounted closer
may produce similar UVI at the animal to:
a stronger lamp mounted farther away.
The target at the animal is what matters.
What This Means in Practice
If you’re at the expo or in a reptile shop and don’t understand all the UV terminology, ask for:
a linear T5 HO UVB system suitable for a day-active Australian basking skink.
Tell the retailer you need to achieve approximately:
UVI 3–5 at the basking position.
Then determine the correct mounting distance for that exact lamp.
Should I Automatically Buy the Strongest Desert Tube?
No.
More UV is not automatically better.
The objective is to provide:
appropriate exposure + choice.
Heat and UVB Should Overlap
The main basking position should combine:
HEAT + UVB + BRIGHT VISIBLE LIGHT.
This better recreates natural sunlight.
Shade Is Essential
The rest of the enclosure should provide:
lower UV → partial shade → complete shade → dark crevice.
Why?
Wild reptiles regulate their own UV exposure.
They do not remain in full sun continuously.
Mesh
Mesh between the UV lamp and animal can reduce UV output.
Always account for mesh when choosing:
- Lamp output
- Mounting distance
- Basking height
UV Meter
An appropriate UV Index meter is the best method of confirming actual exposure.
Measure approximately at:
the height of the animal’s back while basking.
If You Don’t Own a UV Meter
Many new keepers won’t.
Use:
- A reputable T5 HO system
- The manufacturer’s current distance chart
- Correct basking placement
- Plenty of shade
UVB Replacement
Replace UVB tubes according to the manufacturer’s current guidance.
A tube can continue producing visible light even after its useful UV output has declined.
Bright Visible Lighting
Bright visible daytime illumination is strongly recommended.
An additional:
daylight LED
can be used alongside the UVB and basking equipment.
Why Bright Light?
A day-active Australian reptile should experience a genuinely bright daytime environment.
Bright lighting can support:
- Circadian rhythm
- Activity
- Basking
- Exploration
- Natural behaviour
Photoperiod
Approximately:
11–13 hours of daylight
is suitable through much of the active season.
Seasonal adjustment can be beneficial.
Night Lighting
The enclosure should become:
dark at night.
Do not use visible:
- Red
- Blue
- Purple
night lamps.
Humidity
Gidgee Skinks should generally be maintained under relatively dry, well-ventilated conditions.
However, do not attempt to make every part of the enclosure equally dry.
Ambient Humidity
Approximately:
30–50%
is a useful general daytime range for much of the exposed enclosure.
Normal household and seasonal variation is acceptable when suitable microclimates are available.
Humid Retreat
Provide access to a slightly more humid sheltered retreat.
This can be particularly useful during:
- Shedding
- Very dry environmental conditions
Substrate Moisture
Lower substrate and protected crevices may retain somewhat more moisture than exposed basking surfaces.
Ventilation
Good airflow is important.
Avoid:
- Constantly wet substrate
- Stagnant air
- Permanently high humidity
Water
Fresh clean water should remain available:
at all times.
Water Bowl
Provide a:
- Stable
- Easily accessible
- Appropriately sized
water bowl.
Diet
Gidgee Skinks are:
omnivorous.
Both plant and animal foods should contribute to the captive diet.
Dietary Balance
Adult diets can be based substantially around:
appropriate leafy plant material
combined with:
varied invertebrate prey.
Juveniles generally benefit from a relatively greater proportion of animal protein while growing.
Suitable Greens
Useful options include:
- Dandelion greens
- Endive
- Escarole
- Rocket
- Mustard greens
- Turnip greens
- Appropriate mixed leafy greens
Vegetables
Suitable additions can include:
- Squash
- Courgette
- Bell pepper
- Green beans
- Grated root vegetables in moderation
Edible Flowers
Safe pesticide-free flowers can provide useful variety.
Examples include:
- Hibiscus
- Dandelion flowers
- Nasturtium
- Rose petals
Invertebrates
Suitable feeders include:
- Locusts
- Crickets
- Roaches
- Black soldier fly larvae
- Silkworms
- Mealworms
- Beetle larvae
- Earthworms from safe sources
- Captive-produced snails
Dietary Variety
Do not rely upon one insect species.
Gut Loading
Feeder insects should be properly gut-loaded for approximately:
24–48 hours
before feeding.
Fruit
Fruit can be offered occasionally.
Suitable examples can include:
- Berries
- Papaya
- Fig
- Mango
Fruit should remain a:
small component
because of its sugar content.
Vertebrate Foods
Routine rodent feeding is unnecessary.
Occasional appropriate whole-food items may be accepted, but rich vertebrate foods should not become the basis of the diet.
Eggs
Small amounts of cooked or appropriately prepared egg may occasionally be used for dietary variety.
It should not be a staple.
Commercial Diets
High-quality formulated omnivorous reptile diets may sometimes be used as part of a varied feeding programme.
They should not automatically replace:
- Fresh greens
- Whole invertebrate prey
- Dietary variety
Calcium
Appropriate calcium supplementation should be provided.
Insect Dusting
Feeder insects can be lightly dusted with suitable calcium according to:
- Age
- Diet
- UVB provision
- Reproductive status
Vitamin D3
Where effective UVB is correctly provided, additional dietary vitamin D3 should generally be used sparingly according to the overall supplementation programme.
Multivitamin
A suitable reptile multivitamin can be offered periodically.
Juvenile Feeding
Growing juveniles can generally be offered food:
daily or near-daily
with:
- Varied invertebrates
- Appropriate plant foods
- Correct supplementation
Adult Feeding
Healthy adults can generally receive food approximately:
3–5 times per week
depending upon:
- Portion size
- Activity
- Season
- Body condition
Plant foods may be available more frequently than calorie-dense animal foods.
Obesity
Gidgee Skinks can become overweight in captivity.
Monitor:
- Body shape
- Weight
- Activity
rather than simply feeding whenever the animal appears interested.
Feeding Enrichment
Encourage foraging through:
- Scattered greens
- Hidden food
- Live-prey hunting
- Leaf litter
- Different feeding locations
Social Behaviour
One of the most fascinating aspects of Egernia is their complex social behaviour.
Gidgee Skinks can form:
stable family and social groups.
Does That Mean They Must Be Kept Together?
No.
Sociality does not mean any two animals will automatically be compatible.
Established Groups
Compatible groups may include:
- Established adult pairs
- Adults with offspring
- Related animals
depending upon individual relationships and enclosure conditions.
Unfamiliar Animals
Introducing unfamiliar adults can result in:
- Chasing
- Territorial aggression
- Biting
- Stress
- Injury
Group Housing Requirements
Provide:
- Very large accommodation
- Multiple basking sites
- Numerous crevices
- Multiple feeding areas
- Visual barriers
- Spare enclosure capacity for separation
Monitor Every Individual
In a group, monitor:
- Body weight
- Feeding
- Basking access
- Retreat use
- Injuries
- Social interactions
Separation
Be prepared to separate animals immediately if:
- Persistent chasing occurs
- An animal loses weight
- Bites occur
- One animal monopolises resources
- An individual remains constantly hidden
Sexing
Sexing can be difficult, particularly in juveniles.
Adult males may develop:
- Broader heads
- More robust proportions
but experienced examination may be required.
Reproduction
Gidgee Skinks are:
viviparous — live-bearing.
They do not lay eggs for external incubation.
No Egg Incubator Required
Embryos develop within the female.
Young are born:
fully formed.
Seasonal Cycling
Reproduction may be influenced by seasonal changes in:
- Temperature
- Day length
- Feeding
- Activity
Courtship
Breeding behaviour can involve:
- Increased following
- Close association
- Courtship
- Changes in social behaviour
Pregnancy
A gravid female may:
- Become noticeably broader
- Increase basking
- Alter feeding behaviour
- Become less active later in pregnancy
Female Nutrition
Pregnant females require excellent:
- Calcium
- UVB
- Hydration
- Dietary quality
Gestation
Gestation is prolonged compared with egg-laying skinks and can extend for several months.
Exact timing varies with:
- Seasonal conditions
- Temperature
- Individual female
Number of Young
Gidgee Skinks produce relatively small numbers of well-developed offspring.
Approximately:
1–5 young
may be produced, with smaller litters common.
Neonates
Newborn Gidgee Skinks are relatively large and well developed.
Family Behaviour
Unlike many reptiles, offspring may remain associated with parents in established social groups.
However, captive keepers must still monitor closely for:
- Aggression
- Feeding competition
- Basking competition
Neonate Housing
Where young are separated, provide:
- Secure accommodation
- Appropriate basking heat
- UVB
- Numerous crevices
- Fresh water
- Small live prey
- Appropriate plant foods
Neonate UVB
Provide suitable UVB from the beginning.
Healthy skeletal development requires appropriate:
- UVB
- Calcium
- Nutrition
Quarantine
New animals should undergo quarantine before introduction to established animals.
Approximately:
90 days
is a sensible starting point.
Social Species and Quarantine
Do not bypass quarantine simply because the eventual intention is to introduce the animal to a group.
Disease introduction can affect the entire collection.
Quarantine Monitoring
Record:
- Weight
- Appetite
- Faeces
- Shedding
- Hydration
- Respiration
- Activity
Parasite Screening
Veterinary faecal screening is worthwhile for:
- Newly acquired animals
- Animals of uncertain history
- Animals showing weight loss or abnormal faeces
Captive-Bred Origin
European hobby animals should normally be captive-bred.
Retain breeder and provenance information whenever possible.
Shedding
Healthy shedding is supported by:
- Correct hydration
- Humidity gradients
- Rough surfaces
- Good nutrition
Retained Shed
Check particularly around:
- Toes
- Tail
Metabolic Bone Disease
Inadequate:
- UVB
- Calcium
- Nutrition
can contribute to metabolic bone disease.
Possible signs include:
- Weakness
- Tremors
- Limb deformity
- Jaw abnormalities
- Fractures
Obesity
Excess calorie intake and inadequate activity can result in obesity.
Avoid excessive:
- Fruit
- Fatty insects
- Rich animal foods
Dehydration
Possible signs include:
- Sunken eyes
- Lethargy
- Poor appetite
- Abnormal skin condition
Respiratory Disease
Warning signs include:
- Wheezing
- Clicking
- Nasal discharge
- Excess mucus
- Persistent abnormal open-mouth breathing
Social Injuries
Group-housed animals should be inspected for:
- Bite marks
- Missing scales
- Damaged toes
- Tail injuries
Signs of Good Health
A healthy Gidgee Skink should generally display:
- Clear alert eyes
- Strong coordinated movement
- Regular basking
- Active exploration
- Normal retreat behaviour
- Good feeding response
- Healthy skin
- Normal faeces
- Appropriate muscular body condition
Warning Signs
Seek veterinary advice for:
- Persistent food refusal
- Significant weight loss
- Weakness
- Tremors
- Respiratory symptoms
- Persistent abnormal faeces
- Severe lethargy
- Reproductive difficulty
- Significant bite injuries
Common Husbandry Mistakes
Enclosure Too Small
These are active, long-lived skinks.
Keeping a Group in an Enclosure Designed for One
Social housing requires substantially more space and resources.
Assuming Social Means Any Animals Can Live Together
Unfamiliar individuals may fight.
Only One Basking Site in a Group
Dominant animals can monopolise resources.
No Proper Crevices
Tight secure retreats are fundamental to natural behaviour.
Unstable Rockwork
Heavy structures must not be capable of collapsing.
Pulling an Animal From a Crevice
Never forcibly extract a wedged skink.
Whole Enclosure Too Hot
Provide a genuine cool area.
Basking Area Too Cool
These are active diurnal baskers.
Using a Heat Mat as the Main Heat Source
Use overhead daytime heat.
No UVB
Effective UVB is essential for comprehensive husbandry.
Using Only a Compact UVB Bulb
A linear T5 system provides much better usable coverage.
Choosing UVB Only by Percentage
Actual UVI at the animal is what matters.
Buying the Strongest Desert Tube Automatically
Stronger is not automatically better.
No UV Shade
The animal must be able to regulate its exposure.
Dim Enclosure
Provide bright daytime visible light.
No Water Because Australia Is Dry
Fresh water should always remain available.
Feeding Only Insects
Gidgee Skinks are omnivorous and require appropriate plant foods.
Feeding Too Much Fruit
Fruit should remain occasional.
Excessive Rich Animal Foods
This can contribute to obesity.
Poor Gut Loading
Feeder quality matters.
Ignoring Provenance
Retain documentation for Australian-origin captive lineages.
Responsible Ownership
Before acquiring a Gidgee Skink, ensure you can provide:
- Approximately 120 × 60 × 60 cm minimum accommodation for one adult
- Larger accommodation strongly preferred
- Considerably more space for social groups
- Extensive secure rockwork
- Multiple tight crevices
- Naturalistic substrate
- A basking surface around 40–45°C
- Warm ambient temperatures around 28–32°C
- Cooler areas around 22–26°C
- Nighttime temperature reduction
- A quality linear T5 HO UVB system
- Approximately UVI 3–5 at the main basking position
- Complete UV shade
- Bright visible daytime lighting
- Fresh water
- A varied omnivorous diet
- Appropriate leafy plant foods
- Varied gut-loaded invertebrates
- Appropriate calcium and vitamin supplementation
- Careful social monitoring where animals are cohabited
- Long-term specialist reptile veterinary care
- Secure provenance records
Suitability
Advantages
- Fascinating social behaviour
- Impressive spiny appearance
- Active during daylight
- Intelligent and observant
- Interesting omnivorous diet
- Can become confident around keepers
- Live-bearing
- Extremely long-lived
- Outstanding naturalistic display species
Considerations
- Long-term commitment
- Requires substantial enclosure space
- Group housing requires careful management
- Requires extensive secure rockwork
- Requires high basking temperatures
- Requires effective UVB
- Requires bright visible lighting
- Can become overweight
- Captive-bred animals may be expensive or difficult to source
- Provenance is particularly important
Husbandry Summary
Adult enclosure: 120 × 60 × 60 cm minimum for one adult; larger strongly preferred
Group housing: Much larger enclosure with duplicated resources
Lifestyle: Terrestrial, rock-associated
Substrate: Naturalistic soil/sand/clay mixture
Basking surface: 40–45°C
Warm ambient: 28–32°C
Cool area: 22–26°C
Night: 18–22°C
Humidity: Generally 30–50% exposed ambient, with more humid retreats
UVB: Linear T5 HO UVB
Target basking UVI: Approximately 3–5
Visible lighting: Bright daylight illumination strongly recommended
Diet: Omnivorous — appropriate plant material plus varied invertebrates
Water: Available continuously
Handling: Limited/voluntary interaction preferred
Social behaviour: Can form stable family groups; compatibility must be monitored
Reproduction: Live-bearing
Young: Approximately 1–5; often relatively few well-developed offspring
Quarantine: Approximately 90 days as a sensible starting point
Lifespan: 20+ years possible
Captive-bred/provenance: Strongly preferred; retain records
UVB in Simple Terms
If you’re at the expo looking at reptile lighting and wondering:
“What UVB do I actually buy for a Gidgee Skink?”
start by looking for a:
QUALITY LINEAR T5 HO UVB SYSTEM.
Don’t rely on a small compact UVB bulb as the primary UV source.
Depending on the enclosure and mounting distance, a tube somewhere broadly around the:
6–12% UVB class
may be suitable.
But the percentage printed on the box is not our actual target.
Our target is approximately:
UVI 3–5 at the skink’s back when it is using its main basking position.
Why can’t we simply tell everyone to buy a 10% tube?
Because the same tube can give very different exposure depending upon where you put it.
For example:
Lamp closer to skink = generally more UV
Lamp farther away = generally less UV
Mesh between lamp and skink = usually less UV
Higher basking rock = skink closer to lamp = generally more UV
So two correctly designed Gidgee Skink enclosures may use different lamps.
The basking area should bring together:
HEAT + UVB + BRIGHT VISIBLE LIGHT.
Then the enclosure should provide:
UVI 3–5 → lower UV → partial shade → complete shade → dark crevice.
That allows the animal to decide how much exposure it wants.
Remember what each piece of equipment does:
Basking lamp = HEAT
T5 HO UVB tube = ULTRAVIOLET
Daylight LED = BRIGHT VISIBLE LIGHT
One does not automatically replace the others.
If you don’t own a UV meter, use the manufacturer’s current distance chart for the exact lamp and reflector you purchase, and account for any mesh between the lamp and animal.
Do not simply buy the strongest UVB tube because Gidgee Skinks come from sunny Australia.
The goal is not:
maximum UV.
The goal is:
the correct UV exposure, over a useful basking area, with complete shade available whenever the skink chooses it.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
This care sheet provides general husbandry guidance and does not replace species-specific research or veterinary advice. Individual requirements may vary.
Always check current legislation governing the acquisition, collection, import, transport, keeping, breeding or sale of reptiles in your jurisdiction. For Australian native species in overseas collections, retain appropriate provenance and acquisition records.
If you have concerns about an animal’s health or care, consult a suitably experienced exotic or reptile veterinarian.
Information correct at the date of publication.
reptilecommunity.com | Revised: August 2026