Green Basilisk (Basiliscus plumifrons) Care Sheet
The Green Basilisk (Basiliscus plumifrons), also known as the Plumed Basilisk or Green Crested Basilisk, is a large, spectacular semi-arboreal and semi-aquatic lizard native to the tropical forests of Central America.
Adult males are particularly distinctive, developing an elaborate crest on the head together with prominent dorsal and tail crests. Females and juveniles have much smaller crests.
Green Basilisks are famous for their ability to sprint across the surface of water using their enlarged hind feet before dropping into the water and swimming. They are also excellent climbers and strong swimmers and may remain submerged for more than 10 minutes. Smithsonian records adults reaching approximately 90 cm (3 ft) total length.
These characteristics have major implications for captive husbandry.
A Green Basilisk requires considerably more than a conventional medium-sized lizard vivarium. It needs a large, tall, heavily furnished enclosure containing:
- Extensive climbing structure
- Dense visual cover
- Strong UVB and visible lighting
- A proper thermal gradient
- High but well-ventilated humidity
- A substantial clean water area
- Enough clear space to move without repeatedly crashing into enclosure walls
Green Basilisks can be extremely nervous, particularly when young or recently acquired. Poorly designed housing may result in repeated collisions with glass or doors, causing rostral injuries.
Captive-bred animals should be strongly preferred.
Quick facts
Scientific name: Basiliscus plumifrons
Common names: Green Basilisk, Plumed Basilisk, Green Crested Basilisk
Family: Corytophanidae
Origin: Central America
Distribution: Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama
Lifestyle: Semi-arboreal and semi-aquatic
Activity: Diurnal
Adult size: Up to approximately 90 cm (3 ft) total length
Diet: Primarily animal prey, particularly invertebrates, with opportunistic vertebrate prey
Day ambient temperature: Approximately 25–28°C (77–82°F)
Basking surface: Approximately 32–35°C (90–95°F)
Cool area: Approximately 23–25°C (73–77°F)
Night temperature: Approximately 20–24°C (68–75°F)
Humidity: Generally approximately 65–80%, with temporary higher peaks after misting
UVB: Essential/recommended as a routine component of high-quality husbandry
Suggested UVI: Approximately 3–4 at exposed basking branches, with extensive lower-UV shade and retreats approaching zero
Adult enclosure: Approximately 180 × 90 × 180 cm (6 × 3 × 6 ft) or larger strongly recommended for one adult
Water: Large bathing/swimming area essential
Housing: Individual housing safest
Reproduction: Egg-laying
Typical clutch: Commonly approximately 10–17 eggs, depending on female size and condition
Incubation: Commonly around 8–10 weeks under suitable conditions, although temperature affects duration
Sexual maturity: Approximately 18–24 months
Experience level: Intermediate to advanced
Taxonomy
The accepted scientific name is:
Basiliscus plumifrons
The Reptile Database recognises Basiliscus plumifrons as a valid species within the family:
Corytophanidae.
There are currently four recognised species in the genus Basiliscus:
- Basiliscus basiliscus
- Basiliscus galeritus
- Basiliscus plumifrons
- Basiliscus vittatus
No currently recognised subspecies of B. plumifrons are listed by the Reptile Database.
Common names
The species is commonly called:
- Green Basilisk
- Plumed Basilisk
- Green Crested Basilisk
- Jesus Lizard
- Jesus Christ Lizard
The last two names refer to its famous ability to run across the surface of water.
Natural distribution
Green Basilisks are native to:
- Honduras
- Nicaragua
- Costa Rica
- Panama
They inhabit tropical Central America from near sea level to elevations of approximately 775 m (2,542 ft).
Natural habitat
The species is closely associated with:
tropical forest near permanent water.
Typical habitat contains:
- Rivers
- Streams
- Pools
- Dense vegetation
- Overhanging branches
- Forest edges
- High humidity
- Strong sunlight broken by dense foliage
Relationship with water
Water is a fundamental part of Green Basilisk ecology.
Wild animals frequently remain close to:
- Rivers
- Streams
- Pools
If threatened, a basilisk may:
- Sprint along vegetation or land
- Run across the water surface
- Drop into the water
- Swim away
- Remain submerged while hiding
Smithsonian reports that Green Basilisks can remain submerged for more than:
10 minutes.
Running on water
Green Basilisks possess:
- Powerful hind limbs
- Exceptionally long toes
- Specialised scale fringes along the feet
Combined with high running speed, these structures allow the lizard to remain on the water surface for a short distance before beginning to swim.
This behaviour is most effective in:
smaller and lighter individuals.
Large adults are more likely to enter the water sooner.
Semi-arboreal behaviour
Green Basilisks spend substantial time on:
- Branches
- Tree trunks
- Roots
- Vegetation overhanging water
Captive housing must therefore provide genuine:
vertical space.
Semi-aquatic behaviour
The species is also an excellent swimmer.
A small drinking bowl does not adequately reproduce this aspect of its biology.
A proper adult enclosure should contain a water area large enough for:
- Full-body immersion
- Turning
- Swimming
- Rapid entry and exit
Activity
Green Basilisks are:
diurnal.
They rely upon bright daytime conditions for:
- Basking
- Feeding
- Visual communication
- Normal activity
- Circadian rhythm
Temperament
Many Green Basilisks are naturally:
- Alert
- Flighty
- Fast
- Easily startled
This is especially true of:
- Juveniles
- Wild-caught animals
- Newly acquired animals
- Animals in exposed enclosures
Flight response
A frightened basilisk may launch itself rapidly:
- Across branches
- Into enclosure walls
- Against glass
- Into water
This can result in:
serious facial and rostral injury.
Visual security
Dense foliage and visual barriers are extremely important.
A basilisk should not feel constantly exposed.
Cover approximately:
three sides of the enclosure
with opaque backgrounds or dense furnishings where necessary.
Enclosure size
Green Basilisks require unusually large enclosures for their body mass because they are:
- Long
- Tall-bodied
- Fast
- Arboreal
- Semi-aquatic
For a single adult, approximately:
180 × 90 × 180 cm (6 × 3 × 6 ft)
should be regarded as a sensible long-term target.
Larger is strongly preferred.
Particularly large males
Large adult males can approach approximately:
90 cm (3 ft) total length.
For a large male, an enclosure around:
240 × 120 × 180 cm (8 × 4 × 6 ft)
or larger provides dramatically better behavioural opportunity where space permits.
Why small enclosures are unsuitable
Historically, adult basilisks have sometimes been recommended enclosures scarcely larger than large aquariums.
These dimensions do not adequately account for:
- Adult length
- Sprinting behaviour
- Arboreality
- Water requirements
- Thermal gradients
- Visual security
Enclosure orientation
Housing should be:
large, tall and deep.
Unlike many terrestrial reptiles, height is extremely valuable.
Branch network
Provide numerous substantial branches at:
- Different heights
- Different angles
- Different temperatures
- Different levels of UV exposure
Branches should be thick enough for the animal to perch comfortably.
Horizontal basking branches
Provide strong horizontal or gently angled branches beneath:
- Heat
- UVB
These are often preferred basking positions.
Branches above water
Branches positioned:
directly above the water area
closely replicate natural habitat.
They allow the basilisk to:
- Rest
- Bask
- Escape into water
- Select humidity and temperature
Branch security
All branches must be:
firmly anchored.
A large male is powerful enough to dislodge inadequately secured décor.
Dense vegetation
Provide substantial foliage.
Suitable plants may include:
- Pothos
- Philodendron
- Ficus
- Schefflera
- Dracaena
- Bromeliads
- Other sturdy non-toxic tropical plants
Plant protection
Adult basilisks can damage delicate plants through:
- Climbing
- Jumping
- Digging
Choose robust species and protect roots where necessary.
Artificial foliage
High-quality artificial plants may be used in addition to live plants.
The priority is providing:
dense visual cover.
Enclosure background
A textured background can provide:
- Additional climbing surface
- Visual security
- Greater usable area
Ensure the animal cannot become trapped behind it.
Terrestrial area
Although strongly associated with water and branches, Green Basilisks also require a terrestrial area.
This should contain:
- Deep substrate
- Plants
- Hides
- Digging opportunities
Females in particular require adequate substrate for:
egg laying.
Substrate
Suitable substrates include mixtures of:
- Organic topsoil
- Coco fibre
- Fine orchid bark
- Leaf litter
Bioactive tropical substrates can work particularly well.
Substrate depth
Provide at least approximately:
10–15 cm (4–6 in)
across terrestrial areas.
For adult females, provide a deeper nesting section of at least:
20–30 cm (8–12 in).
Female nesting requirements
A reproductively active female may develop eggs even if no male is present.
A suitable laying area should therefore always be available to mature females.
Leaf litter
A layer of leaf litter adds:
- Cover
- Humidity buffering
- Foraging enrichment
- Naturalistic structure
Hides
Although basilisks often use foliage rather than conventional caves, provide several secluded areas.
These may include:
- Cork tubes
- Dense plants
- Elevated foliage
- Root structures
Water area
A large water area is essential.
The animal should be able to:
- Fully immerse
- Turn around
- Swim
- Leave the water easily
Adult water dimensions
For a large adult, the water section should ideally be substantially larger than a simple container.
A basin around:
90 × 60 cm (36 × 24 in)
or larger can be incorporated into sufficiently large enclosures.
Larger water areas provide more meaningful swimming opportunity.
Water depth
Approximately:
20–40 cm (8–16 in)
works well for healthy adults where easy exit points are provided.
Deeper areas may be used in appropriately designed paludaria.
Easy exits
Provide several ways out of the water using:
- Branches
- Cork
- Rocks
- Sloping banks
- Roots
Water quality
Large water areas should be treated like:
aquarium systems rather than decorative bowls.
Filtration
A substantial water area benefits from:
- External canister filtration
- Internal aquarium filtration
- Sump filtration
The system must be protected so the lizard cannot become trapped against an intake.
Water contamination
Basilisks may:
- Defecate in water
- Drop food into water
- Carry substrate into water
This can cause rapid contamination.
Water changes
Carry out regular:
partial water changes.
Do not assume a filter eliminates the need for water replacement.
Water testing
For substantial permanent aquatic systems, periodically monitor:
- Ammonia
- Nitrite
- Nitrate
Ammonia and nitrite should remain:
effectively zero.
Water temperature
Water around approximately:
23–26°C (73–79°F)
is suitable in most adult enclosures.
It does not need to be heated to very high tropical aquarium temperatures.
Dechlorination
Where tap water contains chlorine or chloramine, treat replacement water appropriately.
Humidity
Maintain general relative humidity around:
65–80%.
Humidity peaks
After misting, humidity may temporarily rise toward:
80–90% or higher.
This is acceptable provided good ventilation is present.
Humidity cycle
A natural cycle is preferable:
- Higher overnight
- Higher after misting
- Gradual daytime drying
Ventilation
High humidity must not mean:
stagnant air.
Good ventilation is essential.
Misting
Mist approximately:
once or twice daily
depending upon:
- Enclosure ventilation
- Planting
- Room humidity
- Climate
- Season
Automated misting can be particularly useful in large enclosures.
Drinking
Green Basilisks may drink from:
- Water basins
- Leaves
- Branches
- Moving droplets
Providing both standing water and misting offers multiple hydration opportunities.
Temperature
Provide a strong but controlled thermal gradient.
Day ambient temperature
Maintain most of the enclosure around:
25–28°C (77–82°F).
Warm upper zone
Upper branches near the basking source may reach approximately:
28–30°C (82–86°F)
in the surrounding air.
Basking surface
Provide a local basking surface around:
32–35°C (90–95°F).
Cool area
Provide cooler shaded regions around:
23–25°C (73–77°F).
Why a gradient matters
The animal must be able to move between:
- Hot basking branch
- Warm foliage
- Moderate shaded areas
- Water
- Cooler lower regions
Avoid uniform heating
Do not maintain the entire enclosure at:
32°C+ (90°F+).
Night temperature
Allow nighttime temperatures to fall toward approximately:
20–24°C (68–75°F).
Nighttime heat
Additional night heating is generally unnecessary if temperatures remain safely within range.
If heating is required, use a:
lightless thermostatically controlled heat source.
Heating
Overhead halogen heating is appropriate for creating:
localised daytime basking areas.
Thermostat
Heat sources should be controlled by an:
appropriate thermostat.
Temperature monitoring
Use digital probes to monitor:
- Upper warm zone
- Lower cool zone
- Water
Use an infrared thermometer for basking branches and surfaces.
Lighting
Green Basilisks benefit from:
very bright daytime illumination.
A large planted enclosure often requires additional full-spectrum visible lighting beyond the UVB and basking lamps.
Photoperiod
Approximately:
12 hours light / 12 hours dark
is suitable for routine husbandry.
A moderate seasonal variation can be provided.
Night lighting
Provide:
complete darkness at night.
Do not use permanently illuminated:
- Red bulbs
- Blue bulbs
- Purple bulbs
UVB
Green Basilisks are diurnal, exposed-basking lizards.
Appropriate UVB should therefore form a routine part of captive husbandry.
Suggested UV Index
Aim for approximately:
UVI 3–4
at the principal exposed basking branches.
Shade gradient
The enclosure should simultaneously contain:
- UVI 1–2 beneath partial foliage
- Areas below UVI 1
- Deep retreats near UVI 0
UVB must remain optional
An animal must be able to escape ultraviolet exposure completely.
UVB lamp
In a large enclosure, a high-quality:
linear T5 UVB system
is generally preferable to a small compact UV lamp.
Lamp percentage is not a UVI
A lamp marked:
- 6%
- 7%
- 10%
- 12%
does not automatically provide a particular UV Index.
Actual exposure depends upon:
- Lamp model
- Reflector
- Distance
- Mesh
- Branch position
UV measurement
Where possible, use an appropriate UV meter to establish actual exposure.
This is particularly useful with large arboreal reptiles because animals may climb much closer to the lamp than expected.
Diet
Green Basilisks are opportunistic predators.
Smithsonian records natural prey including:
- Insects
- Spiders
- Smaller lizards
- Small mammals
- Crayfish
- Snails
and feeds its animals insects and earthworms.
Captive diet
A captive diet should focus heavily upon varied:
invertebrate prey.
Suitable feeders include:
- Locusts
- Crickets
- Roaches
- Silkworms
- Black soldier fly larvae
- Earthworms
- Hornworms
- Captive-produced snails
- Other appropriate insects
Dietary variety
Do not rely exclusively upon:
crickets.
Use several prey species.
Earthworms
Earthworms are useful because they provide:
- Protein
- Moisture
- Dietary variety
Smithsonian specifically includes earthworms in its Green Basilisk diet.
Snails
Captive-produced snails can provide useful variety.
Avoid wild snails from areas exposed to:
- Slug pellets
- Pesticides
- Parasites
Vertebrate prey
Green Basilisks may naturally eat small vertebrates, but routine captive rodent feeding is:
not necessary.
Occasional vertebrate predation in nature does not justify using mice as a staple.
Plant material
Green Basilisks may occasionally investigate or consume soft plant material or fruit.
However, the routine captive diet should remain focused primarily upon:
appropriately balanced animal prey.
Fruit should not replace properly gut-loaded feeders.
Gut loading
Feeder insects should be:
properly gut loaded.
Provide nutritious food and hydration before feeding.
Calcium
Dust suitable feeders with:
plain calcium
according to the animal’s age, diet and UVB exposure.
Multivitamin
Use an appropriate reptile multivitamin on a sensible schedule.
Vitamin D3
Dietary vitamin D3 requirements depend partly upon actual:
UVB exposure.
Avoid chronic oversupplementation.
Adult feeding
Healthy adults can generally be fed approximately:
3 times per week.
Portion size should reflect:
- Body condition
- Sex
- Activity
- Reproductive status
Juvenile feeding
Growing juveniles should be offered appropriately sized prey:
daily or near-daily initially.
As growth slows, feeding frequency can gradually decrease.
Adult male condition
Mature males should remain:
athletic rather than heavy.
Excessive feeding combined with limited enclosure space may result in obesity.
Adult female nutrition
Reproductive females require particular attention to:
- Calcium
- UVB
- Hydration
- Overall dietary quality
Repeated egg production can be physiologically demanding.
Feeding enrichment
Use feeding methods that encourage:
- Climbing
- Searching
- Stalking
- Hunting
Suitable prey may be offered in:
- Feeding cups
- Branch-mounted dishes
- Controlled free-ranging sessions
Uneaten insects
Remove excessive uneaten feeders.
Dead insects in the water can quickly:
degrade water quality.
Handling
Green Basilisks are generally poor candidates for frequent recreational handling.
Observation species
They are best regarded primarily as:
display and observation reptiles.
Taming
A well-established captive-bred individual may become accustomed to:
- Keeper presence
- Feeding
- Routine enclosure maintenance
This is different from enjoying regular physical restraint.
Chasing
Never chase a basilisk repeatedly around its enclosure simply to handle it.
This can cause:
- Severe stress
- Collision injuries
- Tail injury
- Escape
Necessary handling
When handling is required:
- Close the room
- Remove escape hazards
- Support the body
- Control the powerful hindquarters gently
- Avoid squeezing
- Keep the animal close to a safe surface
Tail
Never lift an animal by:
the tail.
Social housing
Individual housing is the:
safest default.
Adult males
Never routinely house:
multiple adult males together.
Male basilisks can be strongly territorial.
Male and female
A male and female can breed readily.
Permanent pair housing can therefore result in:
repeated egg production.
This may impose substantial physiological demands on the female.
Multiple females
Large groups may sometimes be maintained successfully in exceptionally spacious enclosures.
However, additional animals dramatically increase requirements for:
- Space
- Basking sites
- Water
- Feeding stations
- Visual barriers
Signs of social stress
Watch for:
- Chasing
- Persistent hiding
- Bite injuries
- Reduced feeding
- Exclusion from basking sites
- Weight loss
- Repeated escape behaviour
Separate animals if necessary.
Sexual dimorphism
Adult Green Basilisks are strongly sexually dimorphic.
Adult males
Males develop prominent:
- Head crests
- Dorsal crest
- Tail crest
Smithsonian describes four vertebral crest structures in adult males, including prominent head, dorsal and tail crests.
Adult females
Females lack the exaggerated dorsal structures of mature males.
Their crests are:
much less developed.
Juvenile sexing
Very young basilisks can be difficult to sex confidently.
Sexual differences become much clearer as animals mature.
Reproduction
Green Basilisks are:
oviparous — egg-laying.
The Reptile Database confirms oviparity in Basiliscus plumifrons.
Sexual maturity
Smithsonian reports sexual maturity at approximately:
18–24 months.
Animals should nevertheless only be bred once:
- Fully grown enough
- Healthy
- Well conditioned
- Nutritionally prepared
Breeding condition
Before breeding, females should have:
- Excellent calcium status
- Appropriate UVB
- Strong body condition
- Good hydration
- Access to deep nesting substrate
Courtship
Males may display using:
- Head movement
- Body posture
- Crests
- Pursuit
Mating can involve physical restraint of the female.
Pregnancy and laying
Smithsonian reports females becoming noticeably plump shortly after breeding and beginning to seek a nest site during approximately the:
third week.
Nesting behaviour
Females dig into substrate to deposit eggs.
A mature female must therefore have access to:
deep, suitable nesting substrate.
Nesting substrate depth
Provide at least approximately:
20–30 cm (8–12 in)
of appropriately moist, diggable substrate in a dedicated laying area.
Nesting substrate texture
A suitable mixture may contain:
- Soil
- Sand
- Coco fibre
It should:
- Hold an excavation
- Remain slightly moist
- Not collapse immediately
- Not be waterlogged
Clutch size
Smithsonian reports females laying approximately:
15–17 eggs
under observed conditions.
Other breeding records document clutches approximately:
4–17 eggs,
with younger or smaller females often producing smaller clutches.
A practical expectation is therefore:
approximately 10–17 eggs for a mature, well-conditioned female, with smaller clutches possible.
Multiple clutches
Females can produce:
multiple clutches during a breeding season.
Smithsonian reports as many as:
four to five clutches in a season.
This is a major reason to monitor female body condition carefully.
Reproductive depletion
Repeated egg production can lead to:
- Weight loss
- Calcium depletion
- Poor muscle condition
- Egg-binding risk
Females should not be treated as continuous egg-production animals.
Egg handling
If eggs are removed for artificial incubation:
- Handle gently
- Avoid unnecessary rotation
- Maintain approximate orientation
- Do not allow eggs to dry
- Do not place them directly in standing water
Incubation medium
Suitable incubation media include:
- Vermiculite
- Perlite
The medium should remain:
moist but not saturated.
Incubation temperature
A useful general range is approximately:
27–29°C (81–84°F).
Incubation duration
Smithsonian reports hatching after approximately:
8–10 weeks.
Detailed captive records show temperature-dependent incubation, with warmer incubation producing shorter development times.
Avoid excessive temperatures simply to accelerate hatching.
Hatching
A clutch may hatch over approximately:
one to two days.
Hatchling size
Captive breeding records report hatchlings approximately:
9–13 cm (3½–5 in)
in total length.
Hatchling housing
Hatchlings require:
- Tall secure housing
- Abundant foliage
- Thin climbing branches
- UVB
- Warm basking
- High humidity
- Easy access to clean water
Hatchling enclosure safety
Young basilisks are extremely:
fast and nervous.
Avoid large expanses of exposed glass.
Use dense planting to reduce:
- Panic
- Repeated collision
- Rostral damage
Hatchling water
Provide a water area deep enough for normal soaking and swimming but containing:
- Numerous exit routes
- Branches
- Cork
- Plants
Never use a steep-sided container from which a hatchling cannot escape easily.
Hatchling temperature
Maintain daytime ambient temperatures approximately:
25–28°C (77–82°F)
with a small basking area around:
31–33°C (88–91°F).
Hatchling night temperature
Allow a nighttime decrease toward approximately:
21–24°C (70–75°F).
Hatchling humidity
Maintain approximately:
70–85%
with good ventilation.
Hatchling UVB
Provide approximately:
UVI 2–3
on accessible exposed branches with plenty of shade.
Hatchling diet
Suitable feeders include:
- Small crickets
- Small roach nymphs
- Black soldier fly larvae
- Small silkworms
- Small earthworms
- Other appropriately sized live prey
Hatchling feeding
Offer food:
daily or near-daily during rapid growth.
Hatchling supplementation
Provide:
- Proper gut loading
- Calcium
- Appropriate multivitamin supplementation
- Correct UVB
Rapidly growing juveniles are particularly vulnerable to nutritional deficiencies.
Quarantine
All new Green Basilisks should undergo quarantine.
At least:
90 days
is a sensible general minimum.
Wild-caught animals
Wild-caught basilisks may arrive with:
- Internal parasites
- External parasites
- Dehydration
- Rostral damage
- Chronic stress
- Poor body condition
Captive-bred animals should be strongly preferred.
Parasite screening
Veterinary faecal examination is particularly appropriate for:
- Wild-caught animals
- Animals of uncertain origin
- Animals losing weight
- Animals producing persistent abnormal faeces
Rostral injuries
Repeated rubbing or crashing into enclosure walls can cause:
- Abrasions
- Swelling
- Damaged scales
- Open wounds
- Secondary infection
Preventing rostral damage
Prevention is far better than treatment.
Provide:
- Larger housing
- Dense vegetation
- Opaque side walls
- Visual barriers
- Minimal disturbance
- Appropriate keeper approach
Metabolic bone disease
Growing Green Basilisks are vulnerable to metabolic bone disease if husbandry is inadequate.
Possible signs include:
- Tremors
- Weakness
- Soft jaw
- Limb deformity
- Spinal deformity
- Poor climbing ability
Prevention of metabolic bone disease
Provide:
- Correct UVB
- Appropriate calcium
- Nutritious gut-loaded feeders
- Appropriate vitamins
- Correct temperatures
Dehydration
Possible signs include:
- Sunken eyes
- Poor skin condition
- Reduced activity
- Abnormal shedding
Review:
- Water access
- Misting
- Humidity
- Temperature
Respiratory disease
Potential signs include:
- Open-mouth breathing when not heat-related
- Wheezing
- Clicking
- Nasal discharge
- Increased respiratory effort
Seek veterinary assessment.
Water-related skin problems
Dirty water can expose the animal repeatedly to high levels of:
- Bacteria
- Organic waste
Maintain strict water hygiene.
Obesity
Adults may become overweight if:
- Overfed
- Given excessive fatty larvae
- Fed vertebrates frequently
- Maintained in undersized housing
Reproductive problems
Females are at risk of:
- Calcium depletion
- Follicular problems
- Egg retention
- Dystocia
Signs of possible dystocia
Seek veterinary help if a gravid female shows:
- Repeated unsuccessful digging
- Persistent straining
- Severe lethargy
- Weakness
- Persistent distension
- Abrupt decline in condition
Veterinary red flags
Consult a suitably experienced reptile veterinarian for:
- Persistent anorexia
- Significant weight loss
- Major rostral injury
- Abnormal breathing
- Severe dehydration
- Weakness
- Tremors
- Significant wounds
- Persistent abnormal faeces
- Prolapse
- Suspected egg retention
Bioactive housing
Green Basilisks are excellent candidates for a large:
tropical bioactive enclosure or paludarium.
Bioactive terrestrial section
Suitable clean-up crew may include:
- Tropical springtails
- Appropriate tropical isopods
Aquatic filtration remains essential
A bioactive land area does not automatically maintain:
water quality.
The aquatic section still requires proper filtration and maintenance.
Bioactive planting
Dense planting can improve:
- Visual security
- Humidity
- Natural behaviour
- Enclosure complexity
Cleaning
Spot-clean terrestrial areas regularly.
Remove:
- Faeces
- Dead insects
- Shed
- Rotten vegetation
- Mould where excessive
Water maintenance
Regularly:
- Remove debris
- Clean accessible surfaces
- Maintain filter components
- Perform partial water changes
- Test water where appropriate
Filter cleaning
Do not sterilise all biological filter media simultaneously.
Doing so can destroy nitrifying bacteria and cause:
ammonia or nitrite spikes.
Conservation status
Smithsonian lists the Green Crested Basilisk as:
Least Concern
and notes that the species remains relatively common within its range, although habitat loss is an important threat.
Pet trade
The species occurs in the international reptile trade.
Smithsonian notes that most animals in the pet trade are believed to be:
captive bred.
Captive-bred animals should always be preferred where possible.
CITES
Basiliscus plumifrons is not generally treated as a CITES-listed species.
However, this does not mean trade, importation or possession is automatically unrestricted.
National and local legislation still applies.
Legal considerations
Always check current legislation governing:
- Import
- Export
- Transport
- Keeping
- Breeding
- Sale
Provenance
Retain:
- Breeder details
- Purchase documentation
- Hatch date where known
- Feeding records
- Health information
Never release captive animals
Never release a captive Green Basilisk into the wild.
Released animals may:
- Die
- Spread disease
- Establish invasive populations
- Violate wildlife law
Responsible rehoming is the correct alternative.
Common husbandry mistakes
Common mistakes include:
- Providing an enclosure that is far too small
- Using a low aquarium-style tank for an adult
- Providing insufficient height
- Providing insufficient depth
- Providing no large water area
- Treating a drinking bowl as adequate aquatic provision
- Poor water filtration
- Allowing contaminated water
- Providing no easy exit from water
- Providing too few branches
- Providing no branches above water
- Providing insufficient foliage
- Leaving all enclosure walls visually exposed
- Failing to prevent nose-rubbing and collision injuries
- Providing no UVB
- Providing excessive UVB without shaded retreats
- Maintaining the entire enclosure at basking temperature
- Providing no cool retreat
- Keeping humidity too low
- Keeping humidity high with stagnant ventilation
- Feeding only crickets
- Routine rodent feeding
- Poor gut loading
- Inadequate calcium supplementation
- Excessive handling
- Chasing the animal around the enclosure
- Housing adult males together
- Keeping females without suitable nesting substrate
- Allowing repeated clutches to deplete females
- Failing to quarantine new animals
- Buying wild-caught animals when captive-bred animals are available
Responsible ownership
Before obtaining a Green Basilisk, ensure you can provide:
- A very large adult enclosure
- Approximately 180 × 90 × 180 cm (6 × 3 × 6 ft) or greater long-term accommodation
- Extensive vertical climbing structure
- Thick secure branches
- Branches directly above water
- Dense visual cover
- A large swimming/bathing area
- Effective water filtration
- Regular water changes
- Deep terrestrial substrate
- Appropriate nesting substrate for females
- High humidity with good airflow
- Correct basking temperatures
- A genuine cool retreat
- Strong visible lighting
- Appropriate UVB
- A varied invertebrate diet
- Correct calcium and vitamin supplementation
- Minimal handling
- Protection from collision injury
- Quarantine facilities
- Reptile veterinary care
- Legal provenance
- Long-term commitment
Summary
The Green Basilisk (Basiliscus plumifrons) is a large, diurnal, semi-arboreal and semi-aquatic lizard from the tropical forests of:
- Honduras
- Nicaragua
- Costa Rica
- Panama
Adults may reach approximately:
90 cm (3 ft) total length.
For one adult, provide approximately:
180 × 90 × 180 cm (6 × 3 × 6 ft)
or larger as a strong long-term target.
The enclosure should include:
- Extensive climbing branches
- Dense tropical foliage
- Visual barriers
- A deep terrestrial section
- A substantial filtered water area
- Multiple easy exits from the water
Maintain daytime ambient temperatures around:
25–28°C (77–82°F)
with a local basking surface around:
32–35°C (90–95°F)
and cooler shaded areas around:
23–25°C (73–77°F).
Allow nighttime temperatures to fall toward:
20–24°C (68–75°F).
Maintain humidity around:
65–80%
with temporary higher peaks following misting and excellent ventilation.
Provide a UV gradient with approximately:
UVI 3–4
at exposed basking branches, together with extensive shade.
Feed a varied diet based predominantly upon:
- Insects
- Earthworms
- Roaches
- Locusts
- Silkworms
- Black soldier fly larvae
- Other suitable invertebrates
Routine rodent feeding is unnecessary.
Green Basilisks are:
egg-laying.
Mature females commonly produce substantial clutches and may lay several times within a breeding season. Smithsonian records approximately 15–17 eggs in observed clutches and as many as four to five clutches in a season, with eggs generally hatching in approximately eight to ten weeks.
Captive-bred animals should be strongly preferred.
The most important husbandry considerations are:
space, visual security, climbing opportunity, clean water, high-quality UVB and protection from chronic stress.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION:
This care sheet provides general husbandry guidance and does not replace species-specific research or veterinary advice. Individual requirements may vary.
Always check current legislation governing the acquisition, collection, import, transport, keeping, breeding or sale of reptiles in your jurisdiction.
If you have concerns about an animal’s health or care, consult a suitably experienced exotic or reptile veterinarian.
Information correct at the date of publication.
reptilecommunity.com | Revised: August 2026