Hermann’s Tortoise (Testudo hermanni) Care Sheet
Quick Facts
Common Name: Hermann’s Tortoise
Scientific Name: Testudo hermanni
Family: Testudinidae
Native Range: Southern Europe and Mediterranean regions
Adult Size: Commonly 15–25 cm (6–10 in), depending on subspecies and sex
Lifespan: Commonly 50+ years
Activity: Diurnal
Diet: Herbivorous
Lifestyle: Terrestrial
Reproduction: Oviparous (egg-laying)
UVB: Essential for animals maintained indoors
Housing: Primarily solitary
Experience Level: Beginner to intermediate
Introduction
The Hermann’s Tortoise (Testudo hermanni) is a small to medium-sized Mediterranean tortoise and one of the most commonly maintained tortoise species in captivity.
They are active, inquisitive and exceptionally long-lived reptiles.
Good husbandry centres around:
- Large amounts of usable space
- Strong daytime illumination
- Appropriate UVB
- A broad basking area
- A thermal gradient
- A high-fibre herbivorous diet
- Permanent access to fresh water
- Soil-based substrate
- Outdoor access when conditions permit
- Seasonal environmental variation
Hermann’s Tortoises should not be maintained permanently in small, barren enclosures under identical conditions throughout the year.
Subspecies
Two commonly recognised subspecies are:
Testudo hermanni hermanni
and
Testudo hermanni boettgeri.
They differ in geographic distribution, adult size, colouration and markings.
Accurate identification is particularly important for breeding. Animals of different subspecies or uncertain ancestry should not be represented as pure without reliable evidence.
Natural Range & Habitat
Hermann’s Tortoises originate from southern Europe and Mediterranean regions, including areas of:
- Spain
- France
- Italy
- The Balkans
- Greece
- Mediterranean islands
They inhabit Mediterranean scrub, open woodland, grassland, rocky hillsides and meadows.
Their environment is strongly seasonal, with changes in:
- Temperature
- Rainfall
- Vegetation
- Humidity
- Day length
Captive husbandry should recognise this natural seasonal biology.
Size
Many adults reach approximately:
15–25 cm (6–10 inches).
Females are generally larger than males.
Size varies according to subspecies, sex, geographic population and genetics.
Lifespan
Hermann’s Tortoises can live:
50+ years
and some individuals considerably longer.
Acquiring one should therefore be regarded as a potentially lifelong commitment.
Housing
Hermann’s Tortoises require considerably more space than their body size might suggest.
They naturally spend substantial periods:
- Walking
- Grazing
- Exploring
- Basking
- Digging
- Seeking shelter
Floor space is considerably more important than enclosure height.
Indoor Enclosure Size
For an adult, aim for at least approximately:
180 × 90 cm
of usable floor area where practical.
Larger is strongly preferred.
Accommodation around:
200 × 100 cm or larger
provides considerably greater opportunity for exercise, exploration and thermoregulation.
Juveniles can initially use smaller accommodation, but enclosure size must increase as they grow.
Tortoise Tables & Vivariums
Open-topped tortoise tables can work extremely well because they provide good ventilation and large usable floor areas.
However:
A tortoise table is not mandatory.
An enclosed vivarium is not automatically unsuitable either.
Any enclosure must provide:
- Sufficient floor space
- Good ventilation
- Appropriate temperature gradients
- Suitable UVB
- Environmental choice
Poorly ventilated or undersized enclosed vivariums should be avoided.
Outdoor Housing
Outdoor access is strongly encouraged whenever conditions are suitable.
Natural sunlight provides excellent:
- Visible light
- UVB
- Infrared radiation
- Natural daily variation
Outdoor accommodation can also provide considerably more room for grazing, walking and exploration.
Outdoor Security
Hermann’s Tortoises can dig, climb and push against barriers.
Outdoor enclosures should have:
- Solid secure walls
- Sufficient wall height
- Below-ground protection where necessary
- Secure shelter
- Protection from predators
Avoid transparent perimeter barriers that encourage the tortoise to repeatedly attempt to walk through them.
Potential predators can include dogs, foxes, rats and birds, particularly with young tortoises.
Outdoor Shelter
Provide shelter from:
- Rain
- Wind
- Excessive heat
- Cold
- Predators
In cooler climates, appropriately designed cold frames, greenhouse-style areas or heated shelters can extend safe outdoor access.
Substrate
Suitable substrates include:
- Organic topsoil
- Natural soil
- Appropriate soil-based mixtures
- Mediterranean-style planted substrates
The substrate should allow:
- Walking
- Digging
- Burrowing
- Natural moisture gradients
Avoid routine use of:
- Reptile carpet
- Cedar
- Pine shavings
- Calcium sand
- Crushed shell
- Bare hard flooring
Substrate Depth
Provide approximately:
10–15 cm
or more where possible.
Females intended for breeding require access to substantially deeper nesting substrate.
Environmental Complexity
The enclosure should not be an empty rectangle.
Provide:
- Rocks
- Safe plants
- Logs
- Mounds
- Different substrate depths
- Shelters
- Visual barriers
- Shaded areas
This encourages natural exploration and exercise.
Hides
Provide several secure sheltered areas.
These can include:
- Cork
- Wooden shelters
- Dense planting
- Low caves
At least one retreat should be available away from the basking area.
Temperature
Hermann’s Tortoises require a thermal gradient.
A useful general daytime arrangement is:
Basking area: approximately 30–32°C
Warm ambient area: approximately 24–28°C
Cooler area: approximately 18–24°C
The tortoise must always be able to move away from the heat.
Basking
The basking zone should warm a substantial portion of the tortoise rather than creating one tiny, extremely hot point.
Overhead heating is preferred.
Suitable options include:
- Halogen flood lamps
- Appropriate reptile basking lamps
Heat mats are not appropriate as the primary heat source.
Temperature Monitoring
Use digital thermometers to monitor ambient temperatures.
An infrared thermometer is useful for checking surface temperatures.
Do not rely solely on bulb wattage or thermostat settings.
Actual temperatures must be measured.
Night Temperature
Hermann’s Tortoises do not require tropical temperatures throughout the night.
A natural nighttime temperature reduction is appropriate.
Normal indoor room temperatures are often suitable overnight outside deliberate brumation, provided conditions do not become excessively cold.
Heating Safety
Heating equipment must be securely installed.
The tortoise must not be able to contact dangerously hot equipment.
Large enclosures may require more than one lamp to create an appropriately broad basking zone.
Lighting
Hermann’s Tortoises are strongly diurnal and require bright daytime illumination.
Approximately:
10–12 hours
of daytime lighting provides a useful general range, with seasonal adjustment where appropriate.
All visible lighting should be switched off at night.
UVB
Appropriate UVB is essential for Hermann’s Tortoises maintained indoors.
UVB enables vitamin D3 production and supports:
- Calcium metabolism
- Bone development
- Shell development
- Muscular function
Inadequate UVB can contribute to serious metabolic bone disease.
UVB Provision
Use a high-quality reptile UVB system appropriate to the enclosure.
Long linear UVB lamps generally provide more useful coverage than small compact lamps.
UVB should appropriately overlap the basking region.
Do not select a lamp purely because it is labelled:
10%
or
12%.
Actual UV exposure depends upon:
- Lamp model
- Reflector
- Distance
- Mesh
- Lamp age
- Installation
Follow manufacturer distance guidance and, where possible, measure exposure with an appropriate UV meter.
Shade
The tortoise must have access to:
- Partial shade
- Dense shade
- Opaque shelter
It should be able to regulate its own UV exposure.
Natural Sunlight
Appropriate outdoor sunlight is extremely valuable.
However:
UVB does not effectively pass through ordinary household window glass.
A tortoise sitting behind a closed sunny window is not receiving the same ultraviolet exposure as an animal outdoors.
Humidity
Hermann’s Tortoises should not simply be described as animals that must always be kept extremely dry.
Natural Mediterranean environments contain varied microclimates.
This is particularly important for young tortoises.
Juvenile Humidity
Hatchlings and juveniles benefit from access to appropriately humid microclimates.
Constantly maintaining young tortoises in extremely hot, dry conditions can contribute to dehydration and poor shell development.
Provide:
- Suitable substrate
- Humid retreats
- Fresh water
- Appropriate hydration
while maintaining good ventilation.
Adult Humidity
Healthy adults tolerate relatively dry surface conditions well provided they have:
- Fresh water
- Suitable substrate
- Sheltered microclimates
- Appropriate hydration
Avoid permanently saturated substrate or stagnant conditions.
Water
Fresh drinking water should be:
Available at all times.
Use a shallow, stable dish that the tortoise can safely enter and leave.
Water should be shallow enough that the animal can comfortably stand and raise its head.
Replace water whenever contaminated.
Soaking
Routine forced soaking several times every week should not be presented as mandatory for every healthy adult Hermann’s Tortoise.
Everyday hydration should centre around:
- Permanent access to fresh water
- Appropriate fresh vegetation
- Suitable environmental moisture
- Humid microclimates
Supervised soaking can nevertheless be useful for:
- Newly acquired animals
- Dehydrated animals
- Some hatchling management systems
- Brumation preparation or recovery
- Veterinary-directed care
Never leave a tortoise unattended in water.
Diet
Hermann’s Tortoises are herbivorous.
Their natural diet consists largely of fibrous:
- Weeds
- Leaves
- Flowers
- Stems
- Seasonal herbaceous vegetation
The captive diet should reproduce the nutritional characteristics of this vegetation.
Ideal Diet
A varied weed-based diet is preferable.
Suitable correctly identified, pesticide-free plants can include:
- Dandelion
- Plantain
- Sow thistle
- Hawkbit
- Chicory
- Mallow
- Bramble leaves
- Hibiscus leaves and flowers
- Grape leaves
- Other suitable edible weeds and flowers
Correct plant identification is essential.
Never feed a wild plant unless you are confident it is safe.
Dietary Principles
The diet should be:
High in fibre
and relatively:
Low in readily digestible carbohydrates and protein.
Provide variety rather than relying upon one or two plants.
Supermarket Greens
When suitable weeds are unavailable, leafy greens can supplement the diet.
Options can include:
- Endive
- Escarole
- Chicory
- Radicchio
- Suitable dark leafy greens
Supermarket produce should not become a narrow one-item diet.
Foods to Avoid
Fruit should not form a routine part of the diet.
Do not routinely feed:
- Meat
- Dog food
- Cat food
- Eggs
- Insects
- Other high-protein animal foods
Hermann’s Tortoises are herbivorous and adapted primarily to fibrous vegetation.
Commercial Foods
Commercial tortoise foods vary substantially in quality.
They should not automatically replace a varied plant diet.
If used, select products formulated for Mediterranean herbivorous tortoises and do not rely upon them as the sole food source.
Calcium
Calcium is important for:
- Shell growth
- Bone health
- Muscular function
- Egg production
A piece of cuttlebone can be left in the enclosure.
Plain calcium carbonate can also be lightly applied to food as appropriate.
There is no need to coat every meal heavily in powder.
Good calcium provision must be combined with:
- Appropriate UVB
- Correct temperatures
- Suitable nutrition
Vitamins
Avoid excessive routine multivitamin supplementation.
Fat-soluble vitamins can accumulate when overused.
A varied plant diet, appropriate UVB and sensible calcium provision should form the nutritional foundation.
Concentrated vitamin D3 products should not be used indiscriminately.
Growth & Feeding
Avoid unlimited feeding simply because the tortoise continues to eat.
Captive tortoises can grow much faster than wild animals.
Aim for:
Slow, steady, healthy growth.
Excessive feeding can contribute to:
- Obesity
- Abnormal shell growth
- Other health problems
Pyramiding
Healthy shell growth should be relatively smooth.
Pronounced raised scutes, known as:
Pyramiding
can be associated with multiple factors including:
- Excessive growth
- Inappropriate nutrition
- Poor hydration
- Inappropriate humidity
- Environmental conditions
Prevention is considerably easier than correction.
Body Condition
Regularly monitor:
- Weight
- Appetite
- Activity
- Shell condition
Sudden or unexplained weight loss requires investigation.
Beak
A fibrous diet, natural grazing and appropriate feeding surfaces help maintain normal beak wear.
An overgrown beak can interfere with feeding and may indicate underlying husbandry or health problems.
Significant abnormalities should be assessed appropriately.
Handling
Hermann’s Tortoises do not require frequent handling for enrichment.
When lifting:
- Support the entire body
- Hold the animal securely
- Keep it relatively close to the ground
Falls can cause serious shell and internal injuries.
Hygiene
Wash hands after handling the tortoise, substrate or enclosure waste.
Reptiles can carry bacteria including Salmonella without appearing ill.
Children should be appropriately supervised.
Enrichment
Suitable enrichment includes:
- Large enclosures
- Varied terrain
- Edible plants
- Mounds
- Rocks
- Logs
- Different substrate depths
- Shelters
- Natural grazing
- Secure outdoor access
Enrichment should encourage natural behaviour rather than depend upon frequent human handling.
Housing Multiple Tortoises
Hermann’s Tortoises do not require companionship.
Group housing can create:
- Competition
- Bullying
- Persistent mounting
- Stress
- Injury
Adult males may ram, bite and chase one another.
A single male should not automatically be permanently housed with a single female because persistent courtship can place substantial pressure on her.
Group housing requires:
- Considerable space
- Visual barriers
- Multiple shelters
- Careful monitoring
Separation must always be possible.
Sexing
Adult males generally have:
- Longer, thicker tails
- Cloaca positioned farther along the tail
- Some plastron concavity
Females generally have:
- Shorter tails
- Cloaca closer to the body
- Broader body shape
- Flatter plastron
Juveniles can be difficult to sex reliably.
Breeding
Only healthy, mature animals should be bred.
Consider:
- Subspecies
- Lineage
- Health
- Age
- Body condition
- Genetic background
Animals should not be crossed indiscriminately simply because both are Hermann’s Tortoises.
Courtship
Male courtship can include:
- Chasing
- Ramming
- Biting
- Mounting
- Vocalisation during mating
Females must have sufficient space and cover to escape persistent attention.
Nesting
Gravid females require a suitable nesting area providing:
- Deep soil
- Appropriate warmth
- Suitable moisture
- Privacy
Approximately:
20–30 cm or more
of suitable soil may be necessary for a female to construct a complete nest chamber.
Egg Retention
Possible signs of reproductive difficulty include:
- Persistent restless digging
- Repeated unsuccessful nesting attempts
- Reduced appetite
- Straining
- Lethargy
- Hind-limb weakness
Suspected egg retention requires veterinary assessment.
Eggs
Hermann’s Tortoises are:
Oviparous.
Females lay hard-shelled eggs and may produce more than one clutch during a breeding season.
Clutch size varies with:
- Subspecies
- Female size
- Age
- Individual
Incubation
Eggs can be artificially incubated using appropriate media such as:
- Vermiculite
- Perlite
- Commercial reptile incubation media
The medium should maintain appropriate humidity without leaving eggs sitting in free water.
Temperature-Dependent Sex Determination
Incubation temperature influences:
- Development
- Hatch success
- Sex determination
Within appropriate ranges, cooler incubation generally produces a greater proportion of males, while warmer incubation generally produces more females.
Extreme temperatures can cause developmental problems or embryo death.
Use established species-specific incubation protocols rather than attempting to manipulate sex through temperature extremes.
Incubation Duration
Incubation commonly lasts approximately:
55–90 days
depending largely upon temperature and incubation conditions.
Individual clutches can vary.
Hatchlings
Hatchlings require:
- UVB
- Appropriate basking
- A thermal gradient
- Fresh water
- Soil-based substrate
- High-fibre vegetation
- Environmental cover
- Humid microclimates
Young tortoises are particularly vulnerable to:
- Dehydration
- Excessive heat
- Poor nutrition
- Rapid abnormal growth
Do not maintain hatchlings in extremely dry, barren conditions.
Quarantine
New tortoises should undergo appropriate quarantine before contact with established animals.
During quarantine:
- House separately
- Use separate equipment where practical
- Monitor weight
- Observe appetite
- Check faeces
- Monitor breathing
- Examine eyes and nose
Veterinary faecal testing may be appropriate, particularly for animals of uncertain origin.
Parasites
Tortoises can carry gastrointestinal parasites.
Possible signs of problematic burdens include:
- Weight loss
- Diarrhoea
- Reduced appetite
- Poor growth
- Lethargy
Treatment should be based upon appropriate diagnosis rather than automatic routine medication.
Respiratory Disease
Possible signs include:
- Nasal discharge
- Bubbles from the nose
- Wheezing
- Open-mouth breathing
- Reduced activity
Respiratory symptoms require veterinary assessment.
Eye Problems
Swollen, closed or discharging eyes can be associated with:
- Infection
- Dehydration
- Environmental problems
- Nutritional disease
- Other illness
Persistent abnormalities require investigation.
Metabolic Bone Disease
Metabolic bone disease can result from problems involving:
- Inadequate UVB
- Poor calcium availability
- Inappropriate nutrition
- Incorrect temperatures
Possible signs include:
- Soft shell
- Abnormal shell growth
- Weakness
- Limb deformity
- Difficulty walking
Correct preventative husbandry is essential.
Shell Injuries
Serious cracks, punctures or other shell injuries require veterinary assessment.
The shell contains:
- Living bone
- Blood vessels
- Nerves
and significant shell damage can be painful and medically serious.
Brumation / Hibernation
Hermann’s Tortoises naturally undergo winter dormancy across much of their range.
This is commonly called hibernation or, more accurately for reptiles:
Brumation.
It is an important component of their seasonal biology but must be managed correctly.
An unhealthy tortoise should never simply be allowed to brumate because winter has arrived.
Before Brumation
Before deliberate brumation, the tortoise should be:
- Correctly identified
- Healthy
- In appropriate body condition
- Well hydrated
- Free from significant disease
A pre-brumation health assessment by a reptile-experienced veterinarian is advisable, particularly for inexperienced keepers or animals with uncertain health histories.
Do Not Brumate An Unwell Tortoise
Do not deliberately brumate an animal that is:
- Underweight
- Dehydrated
- Showing respiratory symptoms
- Suffering significant parasite disease
- Recovering from illness
- Otherwise medically unsuitable
Such animals may need to be overwintered awake under appropriate heat, light and UVB.
Brumation Preparation
Food is stopped before brumation while suitable warmth is initially maintained so remaining food can be digested.
Hydration remains important.
Do not simply stop food and heating simultaneously and immediately place the animal into cold conditions.
Brumation Temperature
Controlled brumation requires stable cool temperatures.
Conditions must remain:
Cold enough to maintain dormancy
but:
Safely above freezing.
Excessive warmth can leave the animal metabolically active while unable to feed normally.
Freezing can be fatal.
Monitoring Brumation
Monitor:
- Temperature
- Body weight
- General condition
Unexpected:
- Urination
- Defecation
- Excessive weight loss
- Repeated waking
- Signs of illness
require reassessment.
Brumation Duration
Duration depends upon:
- Age
- Size
- Health
- Previous experience
- Management method
For many healthy captive adults, controlled periods of approximately:
8–12 weeks
are commonly used.
This is not a compulsory duration for every individual.
After Brumation
After brumation:
- Restore appropriate warmth
- Restore basking conditions
- Restore full lighting and UVB
- Provide fresh water
- Monitor drinking
- Resume feeding once appropriately warmed and hydrated
Monitor body weight and behaviour closely.
Seek veterinary advice if the tortoise fails to become appropriately active, drink or eat, or develops signs of illness.
Overwintering Without Brumation
A tortoise that cannot safely brumate must be maintained fully active.
Provide:
- Appropriate basking heat
- Strong visible lighting
- UVB
- Fresh water
- Appropriate diet
Do not allow an unhealthy or underweight animal to remain semi-dormant for months at intermediate temperatures.
Seasonal Husbandry
Hermann’s Tortoise husbandry should recognise natural seasonal cycles.
These can include changes in:
- Day length
- Temperature
- Feeding
- Activity
- Outdoor access
- Brumation
Keeping identical summer-like conditions throughout the entire year does not reflect the species’ natural ecology.
Veterinary Care
Seek a suitably experienced reptile veterinarian for signs including:
- Persistent loss of appetite
- Significant weight loss
- Nasal discharge
- Abnormal breathing
- Swollen or closed eyes
- Shell softening
- Serious shell injury
- Persistent diarrhoea
- Suspected egg retention
- Abnormal recovery from brumation
- Weakness
- Neurological abnormalities
Legal & Documentation Considerations
Hermann’s Tortoises are subject to international wildlife trade controls.
Legal and documentation requirements can apply to:
- Sale
- Purchase
- Breeding
- Import
- Export
- Commercial use
Requirements vary by jurisdiction.
Owners, breeders and sellers should verify the current rules applicable to them and retain all relevant documentation.
CITES
Testudo hermanni is a CITES-listed species and international trade is regulated.
Additional documentation requirements may apply to commercial transactions depending upon jurisdiction.
Never purchase or sell a Hermann’s Tortoise of uncertain legal origin.
Relevant paperwork should remain associated with the animal.
Responsible Acquisition
Where possible, choose captive-bred animals from reputable, traceable sources.
Retain records including:
- Species/subspecies
- Hatch year
- Sex where known
- Breeder/source
- Identification details where applicable
- Relevant legal documentation
Never release a captive Hermann’s Tortoise into the wild.
Summary
Hermann’s Tortoises are long-lived, active Mediterranean reptiles requiring considerably more than a small enclosure and a bowl of salad.
Successful husbandry centres around:
- Large amounts of usable floor space
- Secure outdoor access when appropriate
- Strong visible daylight
- Appropriate UVB indoors
- A broad basking area
- A natural thermal gradient
- Soil-based substrate
- Environmental complexity
- Permanent access to fresh water
- A varied high-fibre weed-based diet
- Appropriate calcium availability
- Slow, controlled growth
- Seasonal environmental variation
- Appropriate health monitoring
- Correctly managed brumation where appropriate
Important principles include:
UVB is essential for Hermann’s Tortoises maintained indoors without adequate natural sunlight.
Natural sunlight is extremely valuable whenever safe outdoor conditions permit.
A tortoise table can be an excellent enclosure, but it is not the only suitable housing design.
Permanent access to clean drinking water should form the foundation of hydration rather than relying solely upon forced soaking.
Routine fruit and animal protein should not form part of the normal diet.
The diet should centre around varied fibrous weeds, leaves and flowers.
Hatchlings should not be maintained in excessively dry conditions.
Only healthy, appropriately prepared animals should undergo controlled brumation.
With sufficient space, appropriate UVB and heat, a natural high-fibre diet, outdoor opportunities and carefully managed seasonal husbandry, Testudo hermanni can remain healthy for many decades.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION:
This care sheet provides general husbandry guidance and does not replace species-specific research or veterinary advice. Individual requirements may vary.
If you have concerns about an animal’s health or care, consult a suitably experienced reptile veterinarian.
Information correct at the date of publication.
reptilecommunity.com | Revised: August 2026