Hourglass Tree Frog (Dendropsophus ebraccatus) Care Sheet
The Hourglass Tree Frog is a small, attractive Neotropical tree frog known for its variable yellow and brown patterning. Primarily nocturnal and highly arboreal, these frogs spend much of their time perched among leaves and vegetation.
Although relatively small, they require careful attention to ventilation, hydration, temperature and water quality and are best regarded as a display species rather than a frog for regular handling.
QUICK REFERENCE
Scientific Name: Dendropsophus ebraccatus
Common Names: Hourglass Tree Frog, Hourglass Treefrog
Family: Hylidae
Origin: Mexico, Central America and northwestern South America
Adult Size: Males approximately 2.5–3 cm; females approximately 3–4 cm
Activity: Primarily nocturnal
Lifestyle: Arboreal
Diet: Insectivorous
Care Level: Intermediate
NATURAL HISTORY
Dendropsophus ebraccatus occurs through parts of Mexico and Central America into northwestern South America.
It inhabits humid lowland and tropical forest environments and is strongly associated with vegetation. Adults are primarily arboreal and may occur in forest vegetation and bromeliads.
During the breeding season, frogs gather around ponds, marshes and temporarily flooded areas, where males call from vegetation.
Their colouration can change noticeably between day and night. Individuals may appear pale yellow or cream during the day and considerably brighter yellow at night.
The dark dorsal markings are variable and can include spots, triangular markings or the characteristic hourglass-shaped pattern from which the species receives its common name.
ENCLOSURE
A vertically orientated enclosure is appropriate for this small arboreal species.
For a small group, approximately:
45 × 45 × 60 cm (18 × 18 × 24 in)
provides a useful starting point, with larger and more complex enclosures encouraged where possible.
The enclosure should provide extensive climbing and resting opportunities using:
- Live or artificial broad-leaved plants
- Thin branches
- Vines
- Cork
- Stems and other narrow perches
- Dense areas of foliage
Live plants are particularly useful because they provide natural resting surfaces, visual barriers and environmental complexity.
Despite requiring humid conditions, good ventilation is essential. The enclosure should not remain permanently stagnant, saturated or airless.
A well-designed tropical terrarium should allow humidity to rise following misting and gradually decline between misting periods.
SUBSTRATE
A moisture-retentive but well-draining substrate can be used.
Suitable options include:
- Amphibian-safe tropical substrate mixtures
- Organic soil-based mixtures free from fertilisers and pesticides
- Coco fibre as part of a suitable substrate mixture
- Leaf litter
A drainage layer can be useful in heavily planted or regularly misted enclosures but is not automatically necessary in every setup.
Bioactive enclosures can work particularly well for this species.
Springtails and suitable small isopods may be introduced as part of a bioactive system, but they should not be considered a substitute for normal enclosure maintenance.
Leaf litter provides useful ground cover and helps create natural microhabitats.
TEMPERATURE
Hourglass Tree Frogs generally do well at moderate tropical temperatures and should be protected from overheating.
Daytime
Approximately:
23–27°C (73–81°F)
A small amount of local variation within the enclosure is beneficial.
Night
A natural nighttime reduction is acceptable, with temperatures around:
20–23°C (68–73°F)
generally suitable.
Prolonged exposure to excessive heat should be avoided.
In many normally heated homes, additional heating may only be necessary seasonally.
If supplementary heating is required, it should be provided from outside the enclosure and controlled by a suitable thermostat.
Always measure temperatures with reliable digital equipment rather than estimating them.
LIGHTING & UVB
Provide a regular day/night cycle of approximately 12 hours light and 12 hours darkness, with seasonal variation acceptable.
A suitable LED or plant-growth light can be used to illuminate planted enclosures.
Low-level UVB can also be provided.
For this small, foliage-dwelling species, UV exposure should remain relatively gentle, with plenty of shaded areas allowing frogs to regulate their exposure.
The appropriate lamp and installation distance should be selected according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
UVB should never result in excessive enclosure temperatures.
HUMIDITY & HYDRATION
Hourglass Tree Frogs require a humid environment, but maintaining the enclosure at or near 100% humidity continuously is not recommended.
A useful general range is approximately:
60–80% relative humidity
with temporary increases following misting.
Natural daily fluctuations are desirable.
The enclosure can be misted sufficiently to create droplets on leaves and other surfaces while allowing some drying between misting sessions.
Constantly saturated conditions combined with poor ventilation can encourage bacterial and fungal growth and should be avoided.
Humidity should be monitored using a reliable digital hygrometer.
WATER QUALITY
Amphibians have highly permeable skin and are particularly sensitive to contaminants.
Only clean, amphibian-safe water should be used.
Tap water containing chlorine or chloramine should be appropriately treated before use.
A shallow water dish can be provided and should be:
- Easy for the frogs to enter and leave
- Cleaned regularly
- Refilled with fresh, treated water
Water hygiene is an important part of amphibian husbandry.
DIET
Hourglass Tree Frogs are insectivorous and require appropriately sized live prey.
Suitable feeders include:
- Fruit flies (Drosophila spp.)
- Small crickets
- Bean beetles
- Small flies
- Small roach nymphs
- Other appropriately sized captive-cultured invertebrates
Variety is preferable to relying entirely on one feeder species.
Prey should be appropriately sized for the frog and easily swallowed.
Juveniles can be offered small meals frequently, while healthy adults can generally be fed several times each week according to body condition and prey size.
Uneaten insects should not be allowed to accumulate within the enclosure.
SUPPLEMENTATION
Captive feeder insects should be appropriately supplemented.
A suitable regime should include:
- High-quality calcium supplement
- Amphibian-appropriate vitamin/mineral supplement
Supplementation frequency depends on the products being used, diet, age of the frogs and whether appropriate UVB is provided.
Follow the manufacturer’s dosing recommendations rather than heavily coating every meal with multiple supplements.
Where possible, feeder insects should also be appropriately gut-loaded before being offered.
HANDLING
Hourglass Tree Frogs should be considered display animals.
Routine handling is unnecessary and should be avoided.
Amphibian skin is highly permeable and can absorb substances from human hands, while handling itself can cause stress and potentially damage the protective mucus layer.
When handling is unavoidable for veterinary care or enclosure management, clean powder-free disposable gloves moistened with amphibian-safe water are preferable.
Never handle amphibians after using soaps, creams, sanitiser, insect repellent or other chemicals.
BEHAVIOUR
These frogs are primarily nocturnal.
During daylight hours they may remain relatively motionless among foliage before becoming considerably more active after dark.
Provide numerous leaves, branches and visual barriers so animals can choose secure resting locations.
Males produce advertisement calls, particularly during periods associated with increased moisture and breeding activity.
Potential keepers should therefore be aware that males may call at night.
SOCIAL HOUSING
Hourglass Tree Frogs can be maintained in compatible groups when sufficient space, feeding opportunities and visual barriers are provided.
Animals should be monitored for:
- Competition for food
- Persistent stress
- Weight loss
- Injury
- Significant differences in body condition
Avoid overcrowding.
Mixing different amphibian species within the same enclosure is generally not recommended due to differences in husbandry requirements, disease risk and potential chemical interactions.
BREEDING
One of the most fascinating aspects of Dendropsophus ebraccatus is its unusual reproductive biology.
In the wild, breeding is associated primarily with the rainy season.
Remarkably, females can deposit eggs either above water on vegetation or in aquatic situations, with environmental conditions influencing oviposition choice.
Eggs deposited on vegetation above water develop before the tadpoles hatch and fall into the water below.
Successful captive breeding therefore requires considerably more specialised preparation than routine maintenance, including appropriate aquatic areas and careful management of eggs and tadpoles.
Breeding should only be attempted when suitable facilities are available for both adults and developing offspring.
CLEANING & HYGIENE
Spot-clean the enclosure as necessary and remove:
- Faeces
- Dead feeder insects
- Decaying food
- Excessive mould
- Dead plant material
Water containers should be cleaned regularly.
Avoid household disinfectants, fragrances and cleaning chemicals around amphibians unless the product is specifically appropriate for amphibian use and correctly rinsed or neutralised.
Bioactive enclosures still require regular observation and maintenance.
HEALTH
Signs that may indicate a health problem include:
- Loss of appetite
- Unexplained weight loss
- Persistent lethargy
- Abnormal posture
- Difficulty climbing
- Skin lesions or discolouration
- Reddening of the skin
- Swelling or bloating
- Abnormal shedding
- Unusual breathing
- Persistent time spent on the enclosure floor
New amphibians should ideally be quarantined before introduction to an established collection.
If illness is suspected, seek advice from a veterinarian experienced with amphibians or exotic species.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
This care sheet provides general husbandry guidance and does not replace species-specific research or veterinary advice. Individual requirements may vary.
If you have concerns about an animal’s health or care, consult a suitably experienced exotic or amphibian veterinarian.
Information correct at the date of publication.
ReptileCommunity.com | Revised: August 2026