Kim Howell’s Dwarf Gecko (Lygodactylus kimhowelli) Care Sheet
Kim Howell’s Dwarf Gecko (Lygodactylus kimhowelli), also known as the Zebra Dwarf Gecko, is a tiny, active, diurnal gecko from coastal forest habitats in northern Tanzania.
Despite its very small size, this is not a species that should be confined to a tiny or sparsely furnished enclosure. It is an agile, visually orientated arboreal gecko that makes extensive use of vertical surfaces, narrow branches, bark, foliage and exposed basking positions.
Successful husbandry requires bright daytime lighting, appropriate UVB, a controlled warm basking area, cooler retreats, excellent ventilation, fluctuating humidity, regular access to drinking droplets and a varied diet of very small live invertebrates.
Its minute size, speed and delicate build make L. kimhowelli primarily a display species rather than a handling reptile.
Captive-bred animals should be strongly preferred whenever available.
Quick facts
Scientific name: Lygodactylus kimhowelli
Common names: Kim Howell’s Dwarf Gecko, Zebra Dwarf Gecko
Family: Gekkonidae
Origin: Northern Tanzania
Lifestyle: Arboreal
Activity: Diurnal
Adult size: Approximately 3 in (7–8 cm) total length
Diet: Primarily small live invertebrates
Day temperature: Approximately 77–84°F (25–29°C)
Basking surface: Approximately 86–95°F (30–35°C)
Night temperature: Approximately 64–75°F (18–24°C), depending on season
Humidity: Approximately 50–70% by day, commonly rising to 70–85% at night or after misting
UVB: Recommended as a normal part of diurnal husbandry
Suggested UVI: Approximately 2–3 at the principal exposed basking position, with substantially lower levels in shaded areas
Adult enclosure: At least approximately 12 × 12 × 18 in (30 × 30 × 45 cm) for one adult; 18 × 18 × 24 in (45 × 45 × 60 cm) or larger strongly preferred
Housing: Individual housing is the safest default; compatible breeding pairs may be maintained by experienced keepers
Handling: Minimal to none
Experience level: Intermediate
Taxonomy
The currently accepted scientific name is:
Lygodactylus kimhowelli
It was described by Pasteur in 1995 and is recognised as a distinct species within the genus Lygodactylus.
Older literature may contain confusing or outdated nomenclature associated with Lygodactylus howelli.
For current record keeping, breeding records and identification, use:
Lygodactylus kimhowelli
Accurate scientific names are particularly important with dwarf geckos because numerous Lygodactylus species can appear superficially similar in the reptile trade.
Natural distribution
Lygodactylus kimhowelli is native to:
northern Tanzania.
It is particularly associated with the coastal region around Tanga and nearby forest habitats.
Its relatively restricted natural distribution makes accurate identification and responsible captive breeding particularly worthwhile.
Natural habitat
Kim Howell’s Dwarf Gecko inhabits warm coastal forest and woodland environments.
Within these habitats it uses:
- Tree trunks
- Bark
- Fine branches
- Shrubs
- Dense vegetation
- Forest edges
- Sunlit openings
This combination of vegetation, sunlight and shade should influence enclosure design.
The goal is not simply to create a humid tropical box, but to provide a brightly illuminated and structurally complex arboreal environment containing both exposed and sheltered microhabitats.
Activity and behaviour
This species is:
diurnal.
Individuals are normally active during daylight and may spend considerable time:
- Basking
- Hunting
- Moving between branches
- Investigating foliage
- Displaying
- Defending preferred positions
They can move remarkably quickly when disturbed.
Their behaviour is best observed without unnecessary interference.
Enclosure size
For a single adult, approximately:
12 × 12 × 18 in (30 × 30 × 45 cm)
should be regarded as a basic minimum.
However, for permanent adult housing we strongly favour approximately:
18 × 18 × 24 in (45 × 45 × 60 cm)
or larger where practical.
The tiny body size of the gecko should not be used as justification for extremely small housing.
Why larger is better
Additional space allows:
- More climbing routes
- Greater behavioural choice
- Better temperature gradients
- Better UV gradients
- More plant cover
- Multiple basking positions
- More hunting opportunities
- Greater separation between animals if a compatible pair is maintained
A small animal can still use a surprisingly large amount of three-dimensional space.
Enclosure orientation
The enclosure should be:
vertically orientated.
However, height alone is not sufficient.
A tall empty enclosure provides little useful habitat.
The interior should contain a dense network of accessible climbing surfaces.
Escape security
Escape security is critical.
These geckos are:
- Extremely small
- Very fast
- Excellent climbers
- Capable of exploiting tiny openings
Check carefully around:
- Doors
- Cable ports
- Ventilation holes
- Mesh joins
- Sliding tracks
- Background edges
Juveniles and hatchlings require even greater attention to escape-proofing.
Furnishings
Provide abundant:
- Fine branches
- Twigs
- Cork bark
- Narrow vines
- Bamboo
- Live plants
- Dense foliage
- Textured vertical surfaces
The gecko should be able to travel throughout much of the enclosure using vegetation and branches.
Branch diameter
Fine branches are particularly important.
Provide a range of narrow supports that allow the feet to grip naturally.
Use branches positioned:
- Horizontally
- Vertically
- Diagonally
Crossing branches allow the animal to move easily between different areas.
Vertical surfaces
Bark and textured vertical surfaces provide important areas for:
- Basking
- Resting
- Hunting
- Display
- Movement
Cork flats can substantially increase the usable surface area of the enclosure.
Bamboo
Bamboo can be particularly useful for this species.
It provides:
- Narrow climbing surfaces
- Elevated resting positions
- Visual barriers
- Potential egg-laying locations
Sections used as retreats should be arranged so that animals cannot become trapped inside inaccessible cavities.
Foliage
Provide abundant foliage.
Plants provide:
- Security
- Shade
- Drinking surfaces
- Humidity buffering
- Visual barriers
- Lower-UV retreats
The enclosure should contain enough vegetation for the gecko to retreat completely from view.
Live plants
Suitable plants may include:
- Pothos
- Ficus
- Peperomia
- Schefflera
- Small bromeliads
- Other safe tropical plants
Choose plants that tolerate the enclosure’s lighting and humidity conditions.
Plant safety
Avoid introducing plants recently treated with:
- Insecticides
- Miticides
- Systemic pesticides
- Herbicides
- Leaf-polishing products
Prepare plants appropriately before placing them in the enclosure.
Temperature
Maintain much of the enclosure during the day at approximately:
77–84°F (25–29°C).
The enclosure should not be uniformly warm.
Provide a gradient containing both warmer exposed positions and cooler shaded retreats.
Basking area
Provide a small, controlled basking area with a surface temperature around:
86–95°F (30–35°C).
This is a local basking surface temperature.
It is not the target ambient temperature for the entire enclosure.
What this means in practice
A branch or section of bark immediately beneath the basking source can reach the upper temperature range while:
- Surrounding branches remain cooler
- Lower areas remain substantially cooler
- Dense foliage provides shaded retreats
The gecko should be able to leave the basking area immediately.
Overheating
Small vivariums can overheat extremely quickly.
Never allow the whole enclosure to approach basking temperature.
Heat stress can develop rapidly in such a small reptile.
Night temperature
During warmer periods, nighttime temperatures around:
68–75°F (20–24°C)
are appropriate.
Healthy adults can experience somewhat cooler seasonal nights around:
64–72°F (18–22°C).
A natural nighttime temperature reduction is preferable to maintaining daytime temperatures around the clock.
Seasonal variation
A modest seasonal cycle can be beneficial.
During cooler periods, healthy adults can experience:
- Slightly lower daytime temperatures
- Cooler nights
- Shorter photoperiod
- Modestly reduced feeding
Any seasonal changes should be gradual rather than abrupt.
Heating
If additional heat is required, use a:
small overhead heat source.
Because both the enclosure and animal are small, powerful heating equipment can be dangerous.
Thermostat
All significant heat sources should be controlled by an:
appropriate thermostat.
Do not rely upon bulb wattage alone.
Temperature monitoring
Use reliable:
- Digital thermometers
- Infrared thermometer
Measure both:
- Ambient temperatures
- Actual basking-surface temperatures
Lighting
Kim Howell’s Dwarf Gecko is a:
day-active species.
Bright daytime illumination is therefore an important part of husbandry.
Good visible light supports:
- Normal circadian rhythm
- Basking
- Activity
- Feeding
- Natural behaviour
- Plant growth
Photoperiod
A practical photoperiod is approximately:
12 hours of daylight
for much of the year.
A somewhat longer summer photoperiod and shorter winter photoperiod can be used where seasonal cycling is desired.
Night lighting
Switch visible lighting off at night.
Do not use permanently illuminated:
- Red bulbs
- Blue bulbs
- Purple bulbs
- “Moonlight” lamps
Provide a genuine dark period.
UVB
UVB should be provided as part of normal husbandry.
Unlike nocturnal forest geckos, L. kimhowelli is diurnal and actively uses exposed surfaces.
Appropriate UVB allows the animal to regulate its exposure behaviourally and supports normal vitamin D and calcium metabolism.
UV Index
A practical target is approximately:
UVI 2–3
at the principal exposed basking position.
The enclosure should also provide:
- Partial shade
- Dense foliage
- Sheltered positions
- Areas approaching UVI 0
What this means in practice
A:
low-to-moderate output linear UVB lamp
is generally suitable.
The correct lamp depends upon:
- Enclosure height
- Lamp distance
- Mesh
- Reflector
- Branch position
- Plant cover
A high-output desert lamp positioned very close to a small enclosure may produce excessive exposure.
Mesh and UVB
Mesh can significantly reduce the amount of UVB reaching the animal.
Therefore, the percentage printed on a lamp does not tell you the UVI actually reaching the basking branch.
UV measurement
Where possible, measure UVI using an appropriate UV meter.
Measurements should be taken:
where the gecko can physically sit.
Humidity
Humidity should fluctuate naturally rather than remaining at one fixed level.
A useful daytime range is approximately:
50–70%.
Humidity may rise to approximately:
70–85%
following misting and during the night.
Humidity cycle
A healthy cycle is:
misting → humidity rises → drinking droplets remain → surfaces gradually dry → humidity falls → repeat.
This is preferable to maintaining a permanently wet enclosure.
Ventilation
Excellent ventilation is essential.
Warm, stagnant and constantly wet conditions encourage:
- Mould
- Bacterial growth
- Fungal growth
- Skin problems
- Respiratory problems
Humidity and ventilation must be balanced.
Misting
Light misting:
once or twice daily
is usually appropriate depending upon:
- Room humidity
- Ventilation
- Temperature
- Planting
An evening mist can help create the natural nighttime humidity rise.
Drinking
These geckos commonly drink droplets from:
- Leaves
- Glass
- Bark
- Branches
Regular misting therefore provides an important hydration opportunity.
Water dish
A very shallow water dish may also be provided.
Keep it:
- Clean
- Easily accessible
- Shallow enough to present no unnecessary risk
Do not rely solely upon the water dish; provide drinking droplets as well.
Substrate
Suitable substrates include:
- Organic topsoil
- Tropical soil mixtures
- Coco-based substrate
- Fine bark
- Leaf litter
- Commercial bioactive substrate
Substrate moisture
The substrate can remain:
slightly moist beneath the surface
while exposed areas are allowed to dry.
Avoid permanently saturated substrate.
Drainage
A drainage layer can be useful in planted enclosures receiving frequent misting.
Do not allow stagnant water to accumulate beneath the substrate.
Leaf litter
Leaf litter provides:
- Moisture buffering
- Natural appearance
- Microfauna habitat
- Environmental enrichment
Bioactive housing
Kim Howell’s Dwarf Geckos are well suited to properly established bioactive enclosures.
Suitable clean-up crew organisms include:
- Springtails
- Small tropical isopods
Bioactive does not mean maintenance-free
Continue to:
- Remove dead feeders
- Clean water containers
- Maintain plants
- Monitor drainage
- Remove excessive waste
- Inspect for mould
- Check equipment
Diet
Kim Howell’s Dwarf Gecko is primarily:
insectivorous.
Its diet should consist predominantly of appropriately sized live invertebrates.
Suitable feeders
Suitable prey includes:
- Flightless fruit flies
- Pinhead crickets
- Tiny roach nymphs
- Small flies
- Bean beetles
- Small moths
- Other appropriately sized captive-bred invertebrates
Prey size
Prey must be small enough to be taken safely.
Oversized insects may:
- Intimidate the gecko
- Stress it
- Cause injury
Feeder variety
Do not rely exclusively upon:
- Fruit flies
- Crickets
Rotate several feeder types wherever possible.
Gut loading
Feeder insects should be:
properly gut loaded.
Provide nutritious food and hydration to feeders before use.
Calcium
Dust prey lightly with:
calcium.
Because prey items are tiny, only a light coating is required.
Supplementation frequency should take account of:
- UVB exposure
- Age
- Growth
- Sex
- Reproductive status
Multivitamin
Use an appropriate reptile multivitamin according to a planned schedule.
Avoid excessive supplementation.
Adult feeding
Healthy adults can generally be offered small live prey around:
4–5 times per week.
Adjust according to:
- Body condition
- Activity
- Reproductive status
- Individual appetite
Juvenile feeding
Growing juveniles can be offered appropriately sized prey:
daily or near-daily.
Their small body size and rapid growth make consistent access to suitable micro-prey important.
Nectar and fruit-based foods
Some Lygodactylus will consume small amounts of nectar-like or fruit-derived foods.
A tiny amount of an appropriate high-quality gecko diet may occasionally be offered as supplementary enrichment.
However:
it should not replace live invertebrates as the core diet.
Feeding stations
Small elevated feeding ledges can be useful for presenting supplementary soft foods.
Remove uneaten food promptly to prevent:
- Fermentation
- Mould
- Fruit-fly outbreaks
- Bacterial growth
Handling
Routine handling is:
not recommended.
This is primarily a display species.
Why handling is unsuitable
Kim Howell’s Dwarf Geckos are:
- Extremely small
- Delicate
- Very fast
- Excellent climbers
- Difficult to recapture
Their welfare does not depend upon regular handling.
Necessary transfers
When an animal must be moved:
- Work in a secure closed room
- Close doors and windows
- Block obvious escape routes
- Use a small container
- Encourage rather than grab
- Keep the transfer brief
Tail safety
Never restrain the animal by:
the tail.
Tail loss can occur following severe stress or trauma.
Social housing
Individual housing is the:
safest default.
Compatible male/female pairs can sometimes be maintained successfully by experienced keepers.
Males
Do not house:
adult males together.
Territorial aggression can occur.
Because the animals are tiny, significant bullying may occur without immediately obvious dramatic fighting.
Female compatibility
Females may also display territorial behaviour.
Monitor any group carefully.
Signs of social stress
Warning signs include:
- Persistent hiding
- Reduced feeding
- Weight loss
- Chasing
- Bite wounds
- Exclusion from basking positions
- One animal monopolising food
Separate animals where necessary.
Sexing
Adult males generally show:
- More obvious preanal pores
- Hemipenal bulges
- More pronounced adult colouration
Females generally lack obvious hemipenal bulges.
Very young animals can be difficult to sex reliably.
Breeding
Only breed animals that are:
- Mature
- Healthy
- Correctly identified
- Feeding reliably
- Well hydrated
- In excellent body condition
Female condition
Breeding is physiologically demanding for such a small animal.
Monitor females carefully for:
- Weight loss
- Calcium depletion
- Reduced appetite
- Weakness
- Poor body condition
Egg production
Females typically produce:
two eggs per clutch.
Single-egg clutches can occasionally occur.
Egg-laying sites
Eggs are generally deposited in protected locations such as:
- Bamboo
- Bark
- Cork
- Narrow crevices
- Behind furnishings
- Sheltered elevated surfaces
Attached eggs
Eggs may adhere firmly to the chosen surface.
If an egg is attached:
do not forcibly pull it free.
This can rupture or kill the developing embryo.
Removable laying sites
Breeders can provide removable:
- Bamboo sections
- Cork pieces
- Bark panels
- Artificial crevices
This increases the chance of being able to relocate eggs without detaching them.
Protecting eggs in situ
If an egg cannot be moved safely, it may be left in the enclosure.
Where necessary, protect it using a small ventilated barrier to prevent:
- Damage by adults
- Damage from feeders
- Hatchlings disappearing into the adult enclosure
Incubation
A conservative incubation range is approximately:
75–82°F (24–28°C).
Avoid excessive heat.
Incubation humidity
Maintain sufficient ambient humidity to prevent eggs from desiccating.
Do not keep the egg itself:
- Wet
- Sitting in water
- Covered in heavy condensation
Incubation time
Incubation generally takes:
several weeks to a few months
depending upon temperature and individual development.
Do not attempt to shorten incubation by using excessive heat.
Hatchling care
Hatchlings are exceptionally small.
Their enclosure must be completely escape-proof.
Hatchling enclosure
Provide:
- Very fine branches
- Tiny cork pieces
- Small climbing surfaces
- Dense foliage
- Drinking droplets
- Appropriate UVB
- Excellent ventilation
Hatchling temperature
Maintain daytime temperatures around:
75–82°F (24–28°C)
with access to a small warmer micro-basking position.
Avoid overheating.
Hatchling night temperature
Allow a modest nighttime reduction toward approximately:
68–72°F (20–22°C).
Hatchling humidity
Provide:
- Regular light misting
- Moderate humidity
- Good airflow
- Partial drying between misting periods
Tiny geckos can dehydrate quickly, but permanently saturated housing is not the solution.
Hatchling diet
Suitable micro-prey includes:
- Flightless fruit flies
- Springtails
- Tiny pinhead crickets
- Very small flies
- Other appropriately sized cultured invertebrates
Hatchling feeding
Offer food:
daily or near-daily
during early growth.
Hatchling supplementation
Micro-feeders should still be:
- Gut loaded where possible
- Lightly calcium dusted
- Supplemented appropriately with vitamins
Provide appropriate UVB.
Hatchling records
Maintain records of:
- Parent identities
- Egg-laying date
- Hatch date
- Incubation conditions
- Feeding
- Growth
- Shedding
- Sex when determined
Quarantine
All newly acquired animals should undergo quarantine.
At least:
90 days
is a sensible general minimum.
Longer quarantine may be appropriate for:
- Wild-caught animals
- Imports
- Animals of uncertain origin
Quarantine monitoring
Monitor:
- Weight
- Appetite
- Faeces
- Hydration
- Shedding
- Activity
- Breathing
- External parasites
Wild-caught animals
Wild-caught dwarf geckos may arrive with:
- Dehydration
- Internal parasites
- External parasites
- Injuries
- Nutritional deficiencies
- Chronic stress
Captive-bred animals should be strongly preferred.
Parasite screening
Veterinary faecal testing is particularly worthwhile for:
- Wild-caught animals
- Imports
- Animals losing weight
- Animals producing abnormal faeces
Treatment should be based on diagnosis rather than routine indiscriminate medication.
Common health concerns
Potential health problems include:
- Dehydration
- Overheating
- Retained shed
- Nutritional deficiencies
- Metabolic bone disease
- Internal parasites
- External parasites
- Respiratory disease
- Trauma
- Reproductive complications
Dehydration
Possible signs include:
- Sunken eyes
- Reduced activity
- Poor shedding
- Weakness
- Weight loss
Review:
- Misting
- Drinking opportunities
- Humidity
- Temperature
- Ventilation
Heat stress
Small enclosures can become dangerously hot very quickly.
Possible signs include:
- Persistent escape behaviour
- Rapid breathing
- Weakness
- Reduced coordination
- Collapse
Check enclosure temperatures immediately if overheating is suspected.
Retained shed
Pay particular attention to:
- Toes
- Tail
- Limbs
Persistent shedding problems should prompt a review of:
- Hydration
- Humidity
- Nutrition
- General health
Metabolic bone disease
Possible signs include:
- Weak grip
- Tremors
- Limb deformity
- Soft jaw
- Difficulty climbing
- Abnormal posture
Appropriate:
- UVB
- Calcium
- Vitamin D
- Diet
- Supplementation
are important preventive measures.
Suspected metabolic bone disease requires veterinary assessment.
Respiratory disease
Warning signs include:
- Open-mouth breathing
- Wheezing
- Clicking
- Nasal discharge
- Increased respiratory effort
Seek veterinary care.
Reproductive problems
Breeding females may develop:
- Calcium depletion
- Poor body condition
- Egg retention
Possible warning signs include:
- Abdominal swelling
- Persistent straining
- Weakness
- Tremors
- Reduced feeding
- Failure to lay expected eggs
Seek veterinary assistance promptly.
Veterinary red flags
Seek a suitably experienced reptile veterinarian for:
- Persistent anorexia
- Significant weight loss
- Severe dehydration
- Persistent abnormal faeces
- Regurgitation
- Abnormal breathing
- Tremors
- Weakness
- Poor grip
- Significant wounds
- Neurological abnormalities
- Prolapse
- Suspected egg retention
Cleaning
Spot-clean regularly.
Remove:
- Faeces
- Dead prey
- Shed skin
- Mould
- Heavily contaminated substrate
Water hygiene
Clean any water dishes regularly.
Misting reservoirs and tubing should also be maintained hygienically.
Disinfection
For deeper cleaning:
- Remove the gecko
- Use an appropriate reptile disinfectant
- Follow the correct dilution
- Observe the required contact time
- Rinse where necessary
- Allow surfaces to become safe before reintroduction
Never mix disinfectants.
Sourcing
Whenever possible, purchase a:
documented captive-bred Lygodactylus kimhowelli from a reputable breeder.
Ask for:
- Scientific name
- Hatch date
- Sex
- Parent information
- Feeding history
- Supplementation routine
- UVB provision
- Health history
- Captive-bred status
Species identification
Do not purchase animals simply labelled:
“dwarf gecko”
without attempting to establish the species.
Correct identification is important for:
- Husbandry
- Breeding
- Record keeping
- Conservation
- Avoiding hybridisation
Locality and lineage
Where animals have reliable geographic or lineage information, preserve those records.
Do not assign locality based purely upon appearance.
Legal and conservation considerations
Always check current legislation governing:
- Acquisition
- Collection
- Import
- Export
- Transport
- Keeping
- Breeding
- Sale
Captive breeding and accurate record keeping are especially valuable for species with relatively restricted natural distributions.
Never release captive geckos
Never release captive reptiles into the environment.
Released geckos may:
- Die
- Spread pathogens
- Affect native wildlife
- Establish non-native populations
Arrange responsible rehoming instead.
Common husbandry mistakes
Common mistakes include:
- Housing the species in an extremely tiny enclosure
- Poor escape security
- Providing too little vertical structure
- Providing only thick branches
- Providing insufficient foliage
- Providing weak daytime illumination
- Providing no UVB
- Providing no UV gradient
- Providing no basking opportunity
- Heating the entire enclosure to basking temperature
- Allowing overheating
- Providing no nighttime temperature drop
- Maintaining permanently high humidity
- Poor ventilation
- Waterlogged substrate
- Failing to provide drinking droplets
- Feeding oversized prey
- Feeding only one feeder species
- Poor gut loading
- Incorrect supplementation
- Excessive handling
- Grabbing the tail
- Housing adult males together
- Ignoring subtle social stress
- Breeding females in poor condition
- Damaging attached eggs
- Failing to quarantine new animals
- Purchasing poorly documented wild-caught animals
Responsible ownership
Before obtaining Kim Howell’s Dwarf Gecko, ensure you can provide:
- Secure escape-proof arboreal housing
- Abundant fine branches
- Bark and climbing surfaces
- Dense foliage
- Bright daytime lighting
- Appropriate UVB
- A controlled basking area
- Cooler shaded retreats
- Nighttime cooling
- Fluctuating humidity
- Excellent ventilation
- Regular drinking opportunities
- A varied supply of tiny live prey
- Proper gut loading
- Appropriate supplementation
- Minimal handling
- Quarantine
- Veterinary care when required
- Long-term commitment
Summary
Kim Howell’s Dwarf Gecko (Lygodactylus kimhowelli) is a tiny, diurnal arboreal gecko from northern Tanzania.
For a single adult, approximately:
12 × 12 × 18 in (30 × 30 × 45 cm)
should be regarded as a basic minimum, while:
18 × 18 × 24 in (45 × 45 × 60 cm)
or larger is strongly preferred.
Provide abundant:
- Fine branches
- Bark
- Bamboo
- Dense foliage
- Exposed basking positions
- Deep shaded retreats
Maintain most daytime temperatures around:
77–84°F (25–29°C)
with a limited basking surface around:
86–95°F (30–35°C).
Allow nighttime temperatures to fall toward approximately:
68–75°F (20–24°C),
with somewhat cooler seasonal nights appropriate for healthy adults.
Maintain humidity generally around:
50–70% during the day
with rises to approximately:
70–85% at night or following misting.
Allow surfaces to partially dry and maintain excellent ventilation.
Provide UVB with approximately:
UVI 2–3
at the principal exposed basking position, together with abundant lower-UV and near-zero-UV shade.
Feed a varied diet of tiny, appropriately sized, gut-loaded and correctly supplemented live invertebrates.
Provide regular drinking droplets and fresh water.
Routine handling is inappropriate.
Individual housing is the safest default, adult males should not be housed together, and any breeding pair should be monitored carefully for social stress.
Captive-bred animals from traceable sources should be strongly preferred.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION:
This care sheet provides general husbandry guidance and does not replace species-specific research or veterinary advice. Individual requirements may vary.
Always check current legislation governing the acquisition, collection, import, transport, keeping, breeding or sale of reptiles in your jurisdiction.
If you have concerns about an animal’s health or care, consult a suitably experienced exotic or reptile veterinarian.
Information correct at the date of publication.
reptilecommunity.com | Revised: August 2026