Leopard Gecko (Eublepharis macularius) Care Sheet

Gekkonidae Leopard Gecko
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Leopard Gecko (Eublepharis macularius) Care Sheet

​A complete guide for the successful keeping of this popular, crepuscular ground-dwelling lizard.

​1. Overview & Natural Habitat

  • ​Common Name: Leopard Gecko, Leo

  • ​Scientific Name: Eublepharis macularius

  • ​Natural Habitat: Semi-arid/arid rocky grasslands and deserts across Afghanistan, Pakistan, Iran, and India.

  • ​Size: Adults reach about 18 – 25 cm (7 – 10 inches), including the tail.

  • ​Lifespan: Can live 10 – 20+ years in captivity with proper care.

  • ​Temperament: Generally docile and easy to handle; they are crepuscular, meaning they are most active at dawn and dusk.

​2. Vivarium/Enclosure

​Leopard geckos are terrestrial and need significant floor space.

  • ​Minimum Enclosure Size (Adult): 90 x 45 x 45 cm (36 x 18 x 18 inches) or equivalent (approx. 40-gallon breeder style). Larger is highly recommended.

  • ​Hides (Minimum of 3 are Essential):

    • ​Warm Hide: Must be located on the heated side for security while digesting food.

    • ​Cool Hide: Must be located on the unheated side for temperature regulation.

    • ​Humid Hide: Should contain damp moss, coco fiber, or paper towels to aid in healthy shedding. This is a crucial element of the setup.

  • ​Enrichment: Provide plenty of structure like rocks, cork bark, sturdy branches, and ledges to allow for natural climbing and exploration.

​3. Substrate

​Modern husbandry encourages the use of loose, natural substrates to allow for digging and burrowing behavior.

  • ​Best Natural Substrate Mix: A mix of 70% Organic Topsoil and 30% Play Sand (silica-free), mixed thoroughly. This is ideal for creating a naturalistic or bioactive setup.

  • ​Recommended for Hatchlings/Quarantine: Paper towels, non-adhesive shelf liner, or slate tile are best for juveniles to monitor droppings and during a quarantine period.

  • ​Substrates to Avoid: Never use Calci-sand, pure crushed walnut shell (high impaction risk), or reptile carpet (harbors bacteria and can snag claws).

​4. Heating & Temperature

​A thermal gradient is essential, and overhead heating is the most recommended method.

  • ​Primary Heat Source: A Halogen Basking Lamp or a Deep Heat Projector (DHP), controlled by a dimming thermostat, is the preferred method for providing necessary infrared radiation.

  • ​Basking Surface Temperature (Warm Spot): 34°C – 36°C (94°F – 97°F). This temperature should be measured directly on the substrate under the heat source.

  • ​Warm Ambient Side: 30°C – 32°C (86°F – 90°F).

  • ​Cool Ambient Side: 24°C – 26°C (75°F – 79°F).

  • ​Night Time Temperatures: Temperatures can safely drop down to 18°C (65°F). Supplemental heat is only needed if room temperatures consistently fall below this minimum.

  • ​:red_exclamation_mark: Crucial Safety Tip: All heating elements must be connected to a Thermostat to regulate temperature and prevent burns or overheating. Use digital thermometers/hygrometers with probes for accurate readings.

    ​5. Lighting & UV

    ​While crepuscular, Leopard Geckos benefit from low-level UVB exposure.

    • ​UVB Requirement: A low-level UVB source (e.g., a 5-6% T5 linear fluorescent tube) is highly recommended for promoting proper calcium metabolism and natural behavior.

    • ​Target UVI: Aim for a UVI of 1.0 to 1.5 in the basking area.

    • ​Photoperiod: Maintain a consistent 12-14 hour day/night cycle. All lights, including the UVB, must be turned off at night.

    ​6. Humidity & Hydration

    ​Leopard Geckos require a generally arid environment, but they need access to high humidity for healthy shedding.

    • ​Ambient Humidity: Should be kept between 30% and 40%.

    • ​Humid Hide: The humid hide must be kept moist to provide a localized humidity pocket of 70-80% to assist in shedding and prevent “stuck shed.”

    • ​Water: Provide a shallow, clean dish of fresh water at all times.

    ​7. Diet & Feeding

    ​Leopard Geckos are strictly insectivores—they do not eat plants, vegetables, or fruits.

    • ​Staple Feeders (Offer Variety!): Crickets, Dubia Roaches, Mealworms, and Black Soldier Fly Larvae (Calci-Worms).

    • ​Treat Feeders (Offer Infrequently): Waxworms and Superworms are high in fat and should be given sparingly.

    • ​Feeder Size: Insects should not be larger than the width between the gecko’s eyes.

    • ​Feeding Schedule:

      • ​Juveniles (under 6 months): Daily.

      • ​Adults (over 1 year): 2-3 times per week, or every 4-5 days.

    • ​Supplementation Schedule:

      • ​Calcium Powder (Pure): Dust insects at every feeding.

      • ​Calcium with D3 and Multivitamin: Alternate use as directed by product instructions (e.g., D3 2x a month, Multivitamin 1x a month).

    • ​Gut Loading: All feeder insects must be fed nutritious, high-quality food for 12-24 hours before being offered to the gecko. This process is called “gut loading” and is vital to the gecko’s health.

      ​8. Handling & Temperament

      • ​Initial Acclimation: Allow a new gecko to settle into its habitat for a few weeks before attempting any handling.

      • ​Handling Tips: Always support the gecko’s entire body. Handle gently; if startled, a gecko can drop its tail (it will regenerate, but it’s stressful for the animal).

      • ​Hygiene: Always wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water before and after handling the gecko or working in its enclosure.

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