MEDITERRANEAN HOUSE GECKO (HEMIDACTYLUS TURCICUS) CARE SHEET
The Mediterranean House Gecko (Hemidactylus turcicus) is a small, nocturnal gecko native to the Mediterranean region and surrounding areas. Through accidental human transport it has also established populations well beyond its natural range, particularly around warm buildings and urban environments.
Its pale, slightly translucent body, prominent tubercles, large lidless eyes and broad adhesive toe pads give it a distinctive appearance.
Although frequently encountered living around houses in warmer countries, this should not be mistaken for evidence that the species requires little care in captivity.
A properly maintained Mediterranean House Gecko should receive a secure vertically orientated enclosure, abundant climbing surfaces and crevices, an appropriate thermal gradient, low-level UVB, moderate humidity with regular drinking opportunities, excellent ventilation and a varied diet of small live invertebrates.
It is primarily a display species rather than a reptile for regular handling.
QUICK FACTS
Scientific name: Hemidactylus turcicus
Common name: Mediterranean House Gecko
Family: Gekkonidae
Origin: Mediterranean region and surrounding areas; introduced elsewhere
Lifestyle: Arboreal/scansorial
Activity: Nocturnal and crepuscular
Adult size: Approximately 4–5 in (10–13 cm) total length
Lifespan: Commonly around 5–10 years; potentially longer with excellent care
Diet: Insectivorous
Day temperature: Approximately 75–82°F (24–28°C)
Warm area: Approximately 84–88°F (29–31°C)
Night temperature: Approximately 65–72°F (18–22°C)
Humidity: Generally around 40–60%, with temporary rises after misting
UVB: Low-level UVB recommended
Suggested UVI: Approximately 1–2 at the most exposed accessible position, with shade approaching zero
Adult enclosure: At least approximately 18 × 18 × 24 in (45 × 45 × 60 cm) for one adult; larger preferred
Housing: Individual housing is the safest default
Handling: Minimal
Experience level: Beginner to intermediate when captive-bred
TAXONOMY
The accepted scientific name is:
Hemidactylus turcicus
It belongs to the highly diverse genus Hemidactylus, which contains numerous superficially similar house geckos.
Correct identification matters.
Do not assume that every small pale gecko found around buildings is H. turcicus.
IDENTIFICATION
Typical characteristics include:
- Pale grey, beige or pinkish body
- Darker mottling or spotting
- Large lidless eyes
- Vertical pupils
- Broad adhesive toe pads
- Numerous prominent dorsal tubercles
- Relatively translucent skin
- Banded tail, particularly in juveniles
Individuals can alter their shade considerably depending upon:
- Light
- Temperature
- Stress
- Background
NATURAL DISTRIBUTION
The natural distribution centres upon the:
Mediterranean region and surrounding areas.
Populations occur across portions of:
- Southern Europe
- North Africa
- Western Asia
- Mediterranean islands
Human transport has introduced the species to numerous other regions.
INTRODUCED POPULATIONS
Mediterranean House Geckos have become established in parts of:
- North America
- Central America
- Other warm regions outside their native distribution
Buildings, freight and transported materials can inadvertently move geckos and their eggs.
NEVER RELEASE CAPTIVE ANIMALS
The ability of this species to establish introduced populations is an important reason never to release captive animals.
Even apparently harmless geckos can affect:
- Native invertebrates
- Native reptiles
- Ecological relationships
- Disease dynamics
NATURAL HABITAT
The species uses a wide range of rocky and structurally complex environments.
Natural and human-associated habitats include:
- Rocky outcrops
- Cliffs
- Stone walls
- Tree trunks
- Ruins
- Buildings
- Crevices
- Walls around artificial lights
ACTIVITY
Mediterranean House Geckos are primarily:
nocturnal.
They commonly emerge around dusk and become active after dark.
ARTIFICIAL LIGHTS
Wild individuals frequently hunt around artificial lights.
Lights attract:
- Moths
- Flies
- Beetles
- Other flying insects
The geckos exploit this concentrated food source.
This behaviour demonstrates their adaptability but should not be recreated using permanently illuminated night bulbs in captivity.
ENCLOSURE SIZE
For a single adult, provide at least approximately:
18 × 18 × 24 in (45 × 45 × 60 cm).
Despite their small size, these are active geckos.
Larger accommodation is encouraged.
WHY NOT A TINY TANK?
A larger enclosure allows:
- More climbing
- Better temperature gradients
- UV gradients
- Multiple hides
- Hunting behaviour
- Environmental enrichment
Minimum enclosure recommendations should describe functional long-term housing rather than simply the smallest container in which an animal can survive.
ENCLOSURE ORIENTATION
A:
vertically orientated enclosure
is preferable.
These geckos readily use walls, bark, branches and elevated hiding areas.
ENCLOSURE TYPE
Suitable options include:
- Glass arboreal terrariums
- PVC vivariums
- Purpose-built naturalistic enclosures
Ventilation must be excellent.
ESCAPE SECURITY
Escape prevention is extremely important.
House Geckos can squeeze through very small gaps.
Inspect:
- Door edges
- Sliding tracks
- Cable holes
- Ventilation openings
- Mesh
- Background edges
Young animals are particularly capable of escaping through tiny openings.
FURNISHINGS
Provide:
- Cork bark
- Cork flats
- Cork tubes
- Natural branches
- Rock-effect surfaces
- Crevices
- Vines
- Live plants
- Artificial foliage where appropriate
CREVICES
Narrow retreats are particularly important.
Wild Mediterranean House Geckos frequently spend daylight hours concealed within:
- Stone cracks
- Bark
- Wall gaps
- Narrow structural spaces
Provide several tight-fitting hides at different heights.
VERTICAL SURFACES
Provide substantial vertical climbing surfaces.
Cork panels and textured backgrounds greatly increase the usable area of the enclosure.
BRANCHES
Use branches in:
- Vertical
- Diagonal
- Horizontal
orientations.
FOLIAGE
Foliage provides:
- Cover
- Shade
- Drinking surfaces
- Visual barriers
- Environmental enrichment
TEMPERATURE
Maintain much of the enclosure during the day around:
75–82°F (24–28°C).
WARM AREA
Provide a warmer upper area around:
84–88°F (29–31°C).
This should occupy only a limited portion of the enclosure.
THERMAL GRADIENT
The gecko must be able to move freely between:
- Warm areas
- Moderate areas
- Cooler shaded retreats
Never heat the entire enclosure uniformly.
NIGHT TEMPERATURE
Allow nighttime temperatures to fall to approximately:
65–72°F (18–22°C).
This species naturally experiences cooler nights than many equatorial tropical geckos.
SEASONAL VARIATION
Mediterranean climates have meaningful seasonal variation.
Healthy adults can tolerate cooler seasonal conditions than tropical Hemidactylus species.
However, captive animals do not require extreme winter cooling.
WINTER
A mild seasonal reduction in:
- Temperature
- Photoperiod
- Feeding
can be provided to healthy adults.
Routine pet animals do not require deliberate hibernation.
HEATING
Where additional heating is necessary, use:
thermostatically controlled overhead heating.
A low-wattage halogen can create a useful warm upper area.
THERMOSTAT
Every significant heat source should be controlled by an appropriate:
thermostat.
TEMPERATURE MONITORING
Use reliable digital thermometers.
Measure:
- Upper warm area
- Mid enclosure
- Lower cool area
An infrared thermometer is useful for checking surface temperatures.
LIGHTING
Provide approximately:
12 hours light / 12 hours dark
for routine husbandry.
Seasonal variation can be used.
NIGHT LIGHTING
Switch visible lights off at night.
Do not use permanently illuminated:
- Red bulbs
- Blue bulbs
- Purple bulbs
Nocturnal does not mean that an animal cannot perceive night lighting.
UVB
Low-level UVB is recommended.
Although Mediterranean House Geckos are primarily nocturnal, they may receive incidental or voluntary UV exposure while resting close to entrances of crevices during daylight.
UV INDEX
Provide approximately:
UVI 1–2
at an exposed upper position.
Ensure shaded retreats approaching:
UVI 0
are always available.
WHAT THIS MEANS IN PRACTICE
A:
low-output linear UVB lamp
is generally appropriate.
Do not install a powerful desert UVB lamp directly above a small enclosure without measuring the resulting exposure.
UVB DISTANCE
Correct lamp distance depends upon:
- Lamp model
- Reflector
- Mesh
- Enclosure height
- Branch position
Follow manufacturer guidance and ideally verify with a UV meter.
MESH
Mesh can significantly reduce UVB reaching the animal.
A lamp positioned above mesh may therefore produce substantially less UVI inside the enclosure than expected.
SHADE
Provide:
- Exposed resting areas
- Partial shade
- Deep crevices
The gecko should choose its own exposure.
HUMIDITY
Mediterranean House Geckos should not be kept in permanently saturated tropical conditions.
Maintain general humidity around:
40–60%.
HUMIDITY AFTER MISTING
Humidity can temporarily rise to approximately:
60–80%
after misting.
Allow it to fall again as the enclosure dries.
HUMIDITY CYCLE
A useful pattern is:
light misting → drinking opportunity → temporary humidity increase → surfaces dry → repeat.
MISTING
Light misting:
several times per week to daily depending on enclosure conditions
can provide drinking droplets.
Warm, dry enclosures may require more frequent misting than cooler or naturally humid rooms.
DO NOT KEEP THE ENCLOSURE WET
Constantly wet conditions can encourage:
- Skin problems
- Respiratory disease
- Bacterial growth
- Mould
- Poor substrate condition
VENTILATION
Good ventilation is essential.
The enclosure should dry appropriately between misting events.
WATER
Provide:
fresh drinking water at all times.
Although some individuals preferentially lick droplets, a shallow water dish should still be available.
WATER DISH
Position the water dish somewhere accessible from commonly used climbing structures if possible.
Change the water regularly.
SUBSTRATE
Suitable options include:
- Organic topsoil mixtures
- Soil/sand mixtures
- Coco-based mixtures used relatively dry
- Commercial naturalistic reptile substrates
SUBSTRATE MOISTURE
Most of the substrate should remain:
relatively dry to slightly moist.
Avoid permanently waterlogged substrate.
HUMID RETREAT
Providing one slightly more humid retreat is useful, particularly during shedding.
This can contain a small amount of:
- Damp moss
- Moist substrate
It should not be soaking wet.
LEAF LITTER
A modest layer of leaf litter can provide:
- Cover
- Enrichment
- Microfauna habitat
- Humidity buffering
BIOACTIVE HOUSING
Mediterranean House Geckos can be maintained in naturalistic or bioactive setups.
However, choose a system appropriate to their relatively moderate humidity requirements rather than creating a constantly wet rainforest enclosure.
DIET
Mediterranean House Geckos are:
insectivorous.
NATURAL DIET
Wild prey includes various small:
- Moths
- Flies
- Beetles
- Crickets
- Spiders
- Other arthropods
SUITABLE CAPTIVE FEEDERS
Suitable feeders include:
- Small crickets
- Small locusts
- Small roach nymphs
- Black soldier fly larvae
- Small silkworms
- Flies
- Small moths from safe captive cultures
- Other appropriately sized captive-bred insects
PREY SIZE
Feeders should be:
appropriately small.
Avoid oversized prey.
FEEDER VARIETY
Do not feed only:
crickets.
A varied insect diet provides better nutritional diversity and behavioural enrichment.
GUT LOADING
Feeder insects should be:
properly gut loaded.
Provide nutritious food and hydration before offering them.
CALCIUM
Dust prey appropriately with:
calcium.
Supplementation should take account of:
- UVB exposure
- Age
- Growth
- Sex
- Reproductive status
MULTIVITAMIN
Use an appropriate reptile multivitamin according to a sensible schedule.
Avoid excessive supplementation.
ADULT FEEDING
Healthy adults can generally be offered food around:
2–3 times per week.
Offer several appropriately sized insects rather than excessive quantities.
JUVENILE FEEDING
Growing juveniles require food more frequently.
Offer appropriately sized prey around:
4–6 times per week
depending upon age and body condition.
FEEDING TIME
Offer food primarily:
late afternoon or evening.
This coincides with the beginning of their natural activity period.
HUNTING ENRICHMENT
Allowing some appropriate insects to move across climbing surfaces encourages:
- Hunting
- Climbing
- Exploration
REMOVE UNEATEN PREY
Do not leave excessive hungry crickets loose indefinitely.
They can disturb or bite resting geckos.
BODY CONDITION
Regularly monitor:
- Weight
- Tail base
- Muscle condition
- Activity
- Feeding response
- Grip
A small digital gram scale is useful.
HANDLING
Mediterranean House Geckos should primarily be regarded as:
display animals.
WHY MINIMAL HANDLING?
They are:
- Small
- Fast
- Easily stressed
- Capable of jumping
- Vulnerable to tail loss
- Difficult to recapture if escaped
NECESSARY TRANSFERS
When movement is required:
- Work in a closed room
- Close windows
- Move slowly
- Encourage the gecko into a container
- Avoid grabbing
- Keep handling brief
TAIL AUTOTOMY
Never restrain a House Gecko by:
the tail.
The tail can be voluntarily shed as an anti-predator response.
REGENERATED TAIL
A regenerated tail often differs in:
- Shape
- Texture
- Pattern
- Colour
from the original.
SOCIAL HOUSING
Individual housing is the:
safest default.
MALES
Adult males can be territorial.
Do not routinely house:
adult males together.
FEMALES
Females may sometimes coexist, particularly in larger structured enclosures.
However, group housing provides no essential welfare benefit and can make individual monitoring difficult.
PAIRS
Male/female pairs can reproduce readily.
Continuous pair housing can place reproductive pressure on the female.
Separate housing provides better control over breeding.
SEXING
Adult males generally possess:
- Distinct preanal pores
- Hemipenal bulges
Females lack pronounced hemipenal bulges.
BREEDING
Mediterranean House Geckos can reproduce readily under appropriate captive conditions.
Only breed:
- Healthy
- Mature
- Correctly identified
- Well-conditioned
animals.
FEMALE CONDITION
Breeding females require adequate:
- Calcium
- Vitamin status
- Hydration
- Food
- Body reserves
Repeated egg production can be demanding.
EGG PRODUCTION
Females generally produce:
two eggs per clutch.
Occasional single-egg clutches may occur.
EGG-LAYING
Eggs are usually:
hard-shelled and attached to a solid surface.
Potential laying sites include:
- Bark
- Cork
- Rock
- Crevices
- Enclosure walls
- Hidden elevated surfaces
COMMUNAL EGG-LAYING
In wild populations, multiple females may use the same protected laying location.
This can result in clusters of eggs accumulating within suitable crevices.
REMOVABLE LAYING SURFACES
Breeders can provide:
- Removable cork pieces
- Bark panels
- Small tubes
- Artificial crevices
to encourage eggs to be deposited somewhere that can be removed safely.
DO NOT PULL ATTACHED EGGS FREE
Once firmly adhered:
do not forcibly remove an egg from its surface.
The shell can rupture.
If possible, move the entire object to which the egg is attached.
INCUBATION
Eggs can be incubated at approximately:
77–82°F (25–28°C).
Moderate fluctuations are acceptable.
INCUBATION HUMIDITY
Maintain sufficient humidity to prevent desiccation while avoiding condensation directly on the eggs.
INCUBATION TIME
Incubation commonly lasts approximately:
45–90 days
depending heavily upon temperature.
Cooler incubation generally takes longer.
TEMPERATURE-DEPENDENT SEX DETERMINATION
Research on Hemidactylus turcicus has demonstrated:
temperature-dependent sex determination.
Incubation temperature can influence the sex ratio of offspring.
For hobby breeding, the priority should be stable, biologically appropriate incubation rather than deliberately pushing eggs toward temperature extremes to manipulate sex.
HATCHLING SIZE
Hatchlings are extremely small.
They require escape-proof accommodation and tiny live prey.
HATCHLING HOUSING
Provide:
- Fine branches
- Cork
- Small hides
- Foliage
- Fresh water
- Appropriate low-level UVB
- Excellent ventilation
HATCHLING ESCAPE SECURITY
Inspect every opening carefully.
A hatchling may escape through gaps that appear impossibly small.
HATCHLING TEMPERATURE
Maintain approximately:
75–80°F (24–27°C)
during the day with access to a modest warmer area and cooler nighttime conditions.
HATCHLING HUMIDITY
Provide moderate humidity and regular drinking opportunities.
Do not keep hatchlings in permanently saturated conditions.
HATCHLING DIET
Suitable prey includes:
- Flightless fruit flies
- Pinhead crickets
- Tiny roach nymphs
- Small flies
- Other tiny captive-bred insects
HATCHLING FEEDING
Offer appropriately sized prey:
most days or approximately 5–6 times per week
during early growth.
HATCHLING SUPPLEMENTATION
Feeders should be:
- Gut loaded
- Calcium dusted
- Supplemented appropriately with vitamins
Provide low-level UVB.
QUARANTINE
All newly acquired geckos should undergo quarantine.
At least:
90 days
is a sensible general minimum.
WILD-CAUGHT ANIMALS
Wild-caught House Geckos may carry:
- Internal parasites
- External parasites
- Dehydration
- Injuries
- Nutritional deficiencies
- Chronic stress
Captive-bred animals should be preferred.
FOUND WILD GECKOS
Do not automatically remove wild geckos from their natural environment for pets.
Local wildlife protection legislation may restrict:
- Capture
- Possession
- Transport
- Sale
of native reptiles.
PARASITE SCREENING
Veterinary faecal testing is particularly useful for:
- Wild-caught animals
- Imports
- Animals of uncertain history
- Animals losing weight
COMMON HEALTH CONCERNS
Potential problems include:
- Dehydration
- Retained shed
- Metabolic bone disease
- Nutritional deficiency
- Parasites
- Respiratory disease
- Trauma
- Tail loss
- Reproductive complications
RETAINED SHED
Pay particular attention to:
- Toes
- Tail
- Around the eyes
Retained shed around toes can restrict circulation.
METABOLIC BONE DISEASE
Possible signs include:
- Weak grip
- Tremors
- Limb deformity
- Soft jaw
- Difficulty climbing
Correct UVB, calcium and supplementation are important preventive measures.
RESPIRATORY DISEASE
Possible signs include:
- Wheezing
- Clicking
- Open-mouth breathing
- Nasal discharge
- Oral mucus
Seek veterinary care.
EGG RETENTION
Breeding females can develop reproductive complications.
Warning signs may include:
- Abdominal swelling
- Persistent restlessness
- Straining
- Weakness
- Tremors
- Failure to lay
Seek veterinary assistance promptly.
VETERINARY RED FLAGS
Seek an experienced reptile veterinarian for:
- Persistent anorexia
- Significant weight loss
- Severe dehydration
- Persistent diarrhoea
- Regurgitation
- Abnormal breathing
- Tremors
- Weakness
- Poor grip
- Significant wounds
- Prolapse
- Suspected egg retention
CLEANING
Spot-clean routinely.
Remove:
- Faeces
- Dead feeders
- Shed skin
- Mouldy material
- Contaminated substrate
WATER HYGIENE
Clean water dishes regularly and provide fresh water.
Misting equipment should also be maintained hygienically.
DISINFECTION
For deeper cleaning:
- Remove the animal
- Use an appropriate reptile disinfectant
- Follow correct dilution
- Observe contact time
- Rinse where required
- Allow surfaces to become safe before reintroduction
Never mix disinfectants.
SOURCING
Whenever possible, choose a:
documented captive-bred Mediterranean House Gecko.
Ask for:
- Hatch date
- Sex
- Feeding history
- Supplementation routine
- UVB provision
- Parent information
- Health history
LEGAL AND CONSERVATION CONSIDERATIONS
Because H. turcicus occurs naturally in some European jurisdictions but is introduced in others, its legal status can vary substantially.
Always check regulations relating to:
- Wildlife collection
- Possession
- Import
- Export
- Transport
- Breeding
- Sale
NEVER RELEASE CAPTIVE GECKOS
Never release a captive House Gecko into the environment.
This is particularly important for a species with a demonstrated ability to establish populations outside its natural range.
COMMON HUSBANDRY MISTAKES
Common mistakes include:
- Treating it as a disposable “house lizard”
- Housing it in a tiny container
- Using a low enclosure with little climbing space
- Providing too few crevices
- Poor escape security
- Keeping the enclosure uniformly hot
- Providing no nighttime cooling
- Keeping it like a constantly humid rainforest species
- Permanently wet substrate
- Poor ventilation
- Providing no drinking water
- Providing no UVB
- Excessive UVB without shade
- Feeding only crickets
- Poor gut loading
- Incorrect supplementation
- Excessive handling
- Grabbing the tail
- Housing adult males together
- Allowing uncontrolled breeding
- Pulling attached eggs from surfaces
- Failing to quarantine new animals
- Taking wild reptiles without checking local legislation
- Releasing unwanted captive animals
RESPONSIBLE OWNERSHIP
Before obtaining a Mediterranean House Gecko, ensure you can provide:
- A secure vertically orientated enclosure
- Multiple climbing surfaces
- Numerous narrow retreats
- An appropriate thermal gradient
- Nighttime cooling
- Low-level UVB
- Moderate fluctuating humidity
- Excellent ventilation
- Regular drinking opportunities
- Permanent fresh water
- A varied live-insect diet
- Proper gut loading
- Appropriate supplementation
- Minimal handling
- Quarantine
- Veterinary care
- Long-term commitment
SUMMARY
The Mediterranean House Gecko (Hemidactylus turcicus) is a small nocturnal gecko adapted to rocky habitats, tree surfaces, walls, buildings and narrow crevices throughout the Mediterranean region and beyond.
For one adult, provide at least approximately:
18 × 18 × 24 in (45 × 45 × 60 cm),
with larger housing encouraged.
Provide:
- Vertical cork
- Branches
- Narrow crevices
- Elevated hides
- Foliage
- Textured climbing surfaces
Maintain daytime temperatures primarily around:
75–82°F (24–28°C)
with a limited warm area around:
84–88°F (29–31°C).
Allow nighttime temperatures to fall to approximately:
65–72°F (18–22°C).
Maintain general humidity around:
40–60%
with temporary rises following misting.
Allow the enclosure to dry appropriately between misting events.
Provide low-level UVB with approximately:
UVI 1–2
at exposed upper positions and shaded retreats approaching zero.
Feed a varied diet of appropriately sized, gut-loaded and correctly supplemented live insects.
Fresh water should always be available.
Individual housing is the safest default.
Females generally produce:
two hard-shelled eggs
and commonly attach them to protected solid surfaces.
Do not forcibly remove attached eggs.
Handling should be minimal because these geckos are small, fast and capable of tail autotomy.
Captive-bred animals should be preferred, and wild reptiles should never be collected without first confirming applicable wildlife legislation.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION:
This care sheet provides general husbandry guidance and does not replace species-specific research or veterinary advice. Individual requirements may vary.
Always check current legislation governing the acquisition, collection, import, transport, keeping, breeding or sale of reptiles in your jurisdiction.
If you have concerns about an animal’s health or care, consult a suitably experienced exotic or reptile veterinarian.
Information correct at the date of publication.
reptilecommunity.com | Revised: August 2026