Namib Web-Footed Gecko (Pachydactylus rangei)

Namib Web-Footed Gecko (Pachydactylus rangei) Care Sheet

The Namib Web-Footed Gecko (Pachydactylus rangei), also known as the Namib Sand Gecko, is an extraordinary nocturnal desert gecko from the coastal Namib of southwestern Africa.

Its almost translucent pinkish skin, enormous dark eyes and broad webbed feet make it one of the most distinctive geckos in captivity.

The webbing between the toes is not an aquatic adaptation. It assists movement across loose dune sand and helps the gecko excavate the burrows in which it spends the daylight hours.

This is a highly specialised terrestrial species.

Successful husbandry depends upon providing:

  • Deep, genuinely diggable fine sand
  • Significant floor space
  • Warm daytime conditions
  • Cooler retreats beneath the sand
  • A substantial nighttime temperature drop
  • Very dry general conditions
  • Periodic access to moisture and drinking droplets
  • Excellent ventilation
  • Appropriate low-level UVB
  • A varied diet of small live invertebrates
  • Minimal handling

It should never be housed like a tropical gecko or maintained on shallow, damp substrate.

Captive-bred animals should be strongly preferred whenever available.


Quick facts

Scientific name: Pachydactylus rangei
Older scientific name: Palmatogecko rangei
Common names: Namib Web-Footed Gecko, Web-Footed Gecko, Namib Sand Gecko
Family: Gekkonidae
Origin: Namibia, southern Angola and adjoining northwestern South Africa
Lifestyle: Terrestrial, fossorial/burrowing dune specialist
Activity: Strictly nocturnal
Adult size: Approximately 4–6 in (10–15 cm) total length
Diet: Insectivorous
Day ambient temperature: Approximately 77–84°F (25–29°C)
Warm surface area: Approximately 86–90°F (30–32°C)
Night temperature: Approximately 64–72°F (18–22°C)
General humidity: Low, usually around 30–50% above the substrate
Moisture: Localised deeper moisture and periodic nighttime humidity/dew rather than a humid enclosure
UVB: Low-level UVB recommended
Suggested UVI: Approximately 0.5–1.5 at exposed surface positions, with burrows and shaded areas approaching zero
Adult enclosure: At least approximately 24 × 18 × 18 in (60 × 45 × 45 cm) for one adult; larger floor area strongly preferred
Substrate depth: At least approximately 6–8 in (15–20 cm) of fine diggable sand, with deeper areas beneficial
Housing: Individual housing is safest
Handling: Minimal
Experience level: Intermediate to advanced


Taxonomy

The accepted scientific name is:

Pachydactylus rangei

It was originally described as:

Palmatogecko rangei

and older specialist literature frequently still uses that name.

Modern phylogenetic work placed the species within Pachydactylus, and the Reptile Database currently recognises:

Pachydactylus rangei

as the valid name.

No currently recognised subspecies are listed.


Distribution

The species occurs in arid coastal regions of southwestern Africa.

Its distribution includes:

  • Namibia
  • Southern Angola
  • Extreme northwestern South Africa

The type locality is near:

Lüderitz, Namibia.

The species is strongly associated with the Namib dune system and adjacent sandy desert habitats.


Natural habitat

The Namib Web-Footed Gecko is a specialised inhabitant of:

  • Loose coastal dunes
  • Fine wind-blown sand
  • Sandy desert plains
  • Dune slipfaces
  • Sparse desert vegetation

Recent field research confirms that this is a true dune-dwelling species with substantial use of loose sand habitats. Individuals can occupy surprisingly large areas in the wild.


Natural climate

The Namib is extremely arid.

However, it would be incorrect to interpret this as meaning:

“no moisture whatsoever.”

Coastal fog, dew and local moisture are ecologically important features of the Namib ecosystem.

This creates a husbandry challenge:

the enclosure should remain generally dry while still providing controlled access to hydration.


Strictly nocturnal behaviour

Pachydactylus rangei is:

strictly nocturnal.

Field observations describe activity beginning well after sunset.

During daylight the gecko remains concealed beneath the sand in a self-dug burrow.

After dark it emerges to:

  • Hunt
  • Explore
  • Search for mates
  • Drink
  • Move across the dune surface

Burrowing behaviour

Burrowing is not optional enrichment.

It is:

a fundamental part of the species’ biology.

The gecko uses its broad webbed feet to rapidly move loose sand and disappear below the surface.

A captive enclosure must allow this behaviour.


Why the webbed feet matter

The feet are unusually broad, with extensive webbing between the toes.

This helps the gecko:

  • Move across loose sand
  • Reduce sinking
  • Dig rapidly
  • Bury itself efficiently

The species should therefore never be maintained permanently on:

  • Paper towel
  • Reptile carpet
  • Gravel
  • Bark chips
  • Hard-packed soil

except temporarily during medically necessary quarantine.


Enclosure size

For a single adult, provide at least approximately:

24 × 18 × 18 in (60 × 45 × 45 cm).

A larger enclosure around:

36 × 18 × 18 in (90 × 45 × 45 cm)

or larger is strongly preferable.


Why floor area matters

This is a terrestrial species.

Horizontal space is substantially more important than height.

Wild research has documented remarkably large home ranges for some adults, reinforcing that these geckos are not naturally sedentary animals.

More floor space allows:

  • Natural exploration
  • Multiple burrowing sites
  • Better thermal gradients
  • Separate humid and dry microclimates
  • Hunting opportunities

Enclosure height

Extreme enclosure height is unnecessary.

However, enough height is required to accommodate:

  • Deep substrate
  • Surface furnishings
  • Safe distance from heat and UVB lamps

Escape security

The enclosure must be secure.

Although terrestrial, these geckos are:

  • Fast
  • Agile
  • Capable climbers when necessary

Check:

  • Door gaps
  • Cable holes
  • Ventilation panels
  • Lid security

Substrate

The substrate is one of the most important aspects of husbandry.

Use:

fine, clean, loose sand.


Suitable sand

Appropriate options include:

  • Fine washed play sand
  • Fine natural desert sand from a safe commercial source
  • Suitable reptile desert sand without added calcium or dyes

The substrate should be:

  • Fine
  • Loose
  • Diggable
  • Free from sharp particles

Avoid calcium sand

Do not use:

calcium-based sand.

There is no husbandry advantage to using artificially calcium-enriched substrate, and ingestion should not be relied upon as a calcium source.


Avoid coarse substrate

Avoid:

  • Gravel
  • Pebbles
  • Coarse crushed shell
  • Large wood chips

These interfere with normal burrowing.


Substrate depth

Provide at least approximately:

6–8 in (15–20 cm)

of sand.

Deeper sections of:

8–12 in (20–30 cm)

are highly beneficial where enclosure dimensions permit.


Why deep substrate matters

The gecko naturally retreats beneath the surface during daylight.

A shallow layer prevents:

  • Normal burrowing
  • Thermal refuge
  • Moisture refuge
  • Secure daytime concealment

Deep substrate is therefore a core husbandry requirement.


Sand compaction

The sand should remain loose enough to excavate.

However, slightly firmer deeper layers can help maintain burrow structure.

Avoid compressing the entire substrate into a solid mass.


Moisture within the substrate

The surface should remain predominantly:

dry.

However, some deeper substrate can be:

very slightly moist.

This helps create the kind of moisture gradient the animal can encounter beneath the surface.


Do not wet the entire enclosure

Never saturate the sand.

Wet desert substrate can become:

  • Cold
  • Stagnant
  • Bacterial
  • Unsuitable for burrowing

Moisture should be:

localised and controlled.


Localised humid area

A useful approach is to maintain one deeper area of substrate very slightly more humid than the rest.

This provides behavioural choice without turning the enclosure into a humid vivarium.


Furnishings

Surface furnishings should be relatively sparse but still provide enrichment.

Suitable items include:

  • Small pieces of cork
  • Stable desert branches
  • Dry grasses
  • Artificial desert vegetation
  • Small stones placed safely
  • Low hides

Heavy furnishings and digging

Any heavy rocks must be:

supported from the enclosure floor, not simply placed on top of deep sand.

Otherwise, excavation underneath them can cause collapse and crush the gecko.


Hides

Although the gecko should be able to bury itself, provide additional surface shelters.

Useful hides include:

  • Low cork pieces
  • Small artificial rock shelters
  • Half-buried hides

Temperature

Maintain daytime ambient temperatures around:

77–84°F (25–29°C).


Warm surface area

Provide a limited warmer surface area around:

86–90°F (30–32°C).

This should not dominate the enclosure.


Natural thermal buffering

In the wild, the surface of Namib dunes can become extremely hot during daylight.

The gecko avoids those temperatures by remaining beneath the sand.

This is an important distinction:

extreme wild surface temperatures are not target captive body temperatures.


Burrow temperatures

Deep substrate allows the gecko to retreat into cooler and more thermally stable conditions.

This makes substrate depth part of the thermal gradient.


Night temperature

Allow a substantial nighttime drop to approximately:

64–72°F (18–22°C).

A nighttime reduction is biologically appropriate for this desert species.


Seasonal variation

Healthy adults can experience moderate seasonal variation.

A winter period may involve:

  • Slightly lower daytime temperatures
  • Cooler nights
  • Reduced feeding
  • Shorter photoperiod

Do not impose extreme cooling.


Heating

Where required, use:

thermostatically controlled overhead heating.

A low-wattage halogen lamp can create a useful warm surface zone.


Heat mats

Heat mats beneath deep sand are generally undesirable as a primary heat source.

They can create unnatural heat accumulation beneath the substrate, precisely where the gecko expects to find a cooler refuge.


Thermostat

Every significant heat source should be controlled by an:

appropriate thermostat.


Temperature monitoring

Measure temperatures at:

  • Warm surface
  • Cool surface
  • Several centimetres beneath the sand
  • Deeper substrate

This gives a much more meaningful picture than measuring only air temperature.


Lighting

Provide a normal daylight cycle even though the animal is nocturnal.

Approximately:

12 hours light / 12 hours dark

is suitable for routine husbandry.


Night lighting

Provide genuine darkness at night.

Do not use permanently illuminated:

  • Red lamps
  • Blue lamps
  • Purple lamps
  • “Moonlight” bulbs

This species has highly specialised low-light vision and should receive a proper dark period.


UVB

Low-level UVB is recommended.

The species spends most daylight hours underground, so exposure should be:

gentle and optional.


UV Index

Provide approximately:

UVI 0.5–1.5

at exposed surface areas.

Burrows and shaded areas should approach:

UVI 0.


Why UVB can still be useful

A nocturnal lifestyle does not mean UVB exposure is biologically impossible.

Animals may occasionally emerge around dawn, dusk or during daylight disturbance.

Providing low-level UVB allows behavioural choice and supports vitamin D metabolism without forcing exposure.


UVB equipment

A low-output:

linear UVB lamp

covering part of the enclosure is generally appropriate.

The actual UVI depends upon:

  • Lamp model
  • Distance
  • Mesh
  • Reflector
  • Surface position

UV measurement

Where possible, verify exposure with a UV meter.

Do not guess from bulb percentage alone.


Humidity

This is not a high-humidity species.

Maintain general above-ground humidity around:

30–50%.


Night humidity

Nighttime humidity may rise naturally.

Short-term increases are acceptable and biologically appropriate.


Dew and fog

The Namib receives important moisture from:

  • Coastal fog
  • Dew
  • Condensation

This means hydration should not be provided by maintaining constantly damp substrate.

Instead, replicate:

periodic nighttime moisture availability.


Misting

A very light misting:

several evenings per week

can provide drinking droplets.

Do not saturate the enclosure.


Mist one area

It is often preferable to mist:

  • One side
  • A small patch of vegetation
  • Part of the enclosure wall

rather than soaking the entire surface.


Drinking droplets

Wild web-footed geckos use moisture associated with desert dew and fog.

Captive animals should periodically have access to droplets.


Water dish

Provide a:

small, shallow water dish

containing clean water.

Even if the gecko rarely uses it, permanent access to fresh water is prudent.


Ventilation

Ventilation should be:

excellent.

Desert housing should not develop stagnant humidity.


Diet

The Namib Web-Footed Gecko is:

insectivorous.

Wild prey includes a range of desert arthropods.


Natural prey

Recorded or reported prey includes:

  • Crickets
  • Grasshoppers
  • Beetles
  • Ants
  • Termites
  • Spiders
  • Other small arthropods

Suitable captive feeders

Suitable captive prey includes:

  • Small crickets
  • Small locusts
  • Small roach nymphs
  • Black soldier fly larvae
  • Small silkworms
  • Small mealworm larvae used appropriately
  • Flies
  • Other safe captive-bred invertebrates

Prey size

Offer prey appropriate to the gecko’s relatively small mouth.

Avoid oversized insects.


Feeder variety

Do not rely exclusively upon:

crickets.

A varied feeder rotation improves nutrition and enrichment.


Gut loading

Feeder insects should be:

properly gut loaded.

Provide nutritious food and hydration before offering them.


Calcium

Dust prey appropriately with:

calcium.

Supplementation frequency should account for:

  • UVB exposure
  • Age
  • Growth
  • Sex
  • Reproductive status

Multivitamin

Use an appropriate reptile multivitamin according to a sensible schedule.

Avoid excessive supplementation.


Adult feeding

Healthy adults can generally be offered food around:

2–3 times per week.

Adjust according to:

  • Body condition
  • Activity
  • Season
  • Reproductive condition

Juvenile feeding

Growing juveniles should be fed more frequently.

Offer appropriately sized prey around:

4–5 times per week

depending upon growth.


Feeding time

Offer prey primarily:

after lights-out.

This matches the species’ natural activity pattern.


Natural hunting

Allow appropriate live prey to move across the sand.

This encourages:

  • Searching
  • Running
  • Hunting
  • Natural nocturnal activity

Remove uneaten prey

Remove excessive uneaten prey, particularly crickets.

Hungry insects can disturb resting animals or hide within the enclosure.


Handling

Routine handling is:

not recommended.

This is primarily a display species.


Why handling should be minimal

Web-Footed Geckos are:

  • Fast
  • Delicate
  • Easily stressed
  • Adapted to loose sand rather than human hands

Their skin is thin and relatively delicate.


Necessary transfers

When movement is necessary:

  • Work in a secure room
  • Use a small container
  • Encourage the gecko rather than grabbing
  • Avoid squeezing
  • Keep transfer time brief

Tail safety

Never restrain by the tail.

As with many geckos, tail injury or loss may occur following severe stress.


Social behaviour

Wild individuals appear largely solitary outside reproductive interactions.

Modern field research has documented wide-ranging movements and spatial overlap, but this does not mean captive group housing is automatically safe.


Housing recommendation

Individual housing is the:

safest default.


Males

Adult males should not routinely be housed together.

Potential territorial stress can be difficult to recognise in a confined enclosure.


Breeding pairs

Experienced breeders may introduce a:

male and female

for reproduction.

Monitor carefully for:

  • Persistent chasing
  • Bite injuries
  • Weight loss
  • Feeding suppression
  • Chronic stress

Separate when necessary.


Sexing

Females are generally somewhat larger and heavier than males.

Recent field research found measurable sexual size dimorphism, with females larger in both snout–vent length and body mass.

However, size alone is not sufficiently reliable for sexing individual animals.

Adult males should also be examined for:

  • Hemipenal bulges
  • Preanal characteristics

Breeding

Only breed animals that are:

  • Mature
  • Healthy
  • Feeding reliably
  • Well hydrated
  • In excellent body condition

Reproductive season

Natural reproduction is seasonal.

Published observations indicate reproductive activity during the warmer seasonal period.

Captive breeding may be stimulated by appropriate:

  • Temperature cycling
  • Photoperiod cycling
  • Seasonal feeding changes

Female condition

Breeding females require excellent:

  • Calcium availability
  • Hydration
  • Nutrition
  • Vitamin status
  • Body condition

Repeated clutches can be demanding.


Egg production

Females generally produce:

two eggs per clutch.

Young or first-time females may occasionally produce:

one egg.


Egg-laying

Eggs are:

  • Hard-shelled
  • Oval
  • Buried within the sand

This differs markedly from arboreal geckos that attach eggs to vertical surfaces.


Egg size

Published observations describe eggs approximately:

8–11 mm × 7–9 mm.

They may be:

  • Separate
  • Lightly stuck together

If two eggs are joined:

do not forcibly separate them.


Laying substrate

Breeding females require:

deep, diggable sand

with access to a slightly moister laying zone.

This is another reason shallow substrate is inappropriate.


Searching for eggs

Eggs are small and fragile.

If excavation is necessary:

  • Work slowly
  • Use fingers or a soft brush
  • Avoid crushing
  • Avoid unnecessary rotation

Incubation temperature

Published captive breeding accounts commonly report successful incubation around:

84–90°F (29–32°C).

A conservative target around:

84–86°F (29–30°C)

with modest nighttime reduction is preferable to unnecessarily high constant temperatures.


Incubation medium

Eggs can be incubated using:

  • Fine sand
  • Vermiculite-based humidity systems

The egg itself should not sit directly in wet substrate.


Incubation humidity

Published captive reports describe incubation humidity around:

60–80%.

Avoid:

  • Saturation
  • Heavy condensation
  • Water dripping onto eggs

Incubation time

Hatching commonly occurs after approximately:

50–80 days

depending upon temperature.

Some accounts report around:

eight weeks

under warm incubation conditions.


Egg orientation

Maintain eggs in approximately their original orientation once development has begun.

Avoid unnecessary rotation.


Hatchlings

Hatchlings are delicate but already adapted to:

  • Burrowing
  • Loose sand
  • Nocturnal hunting

Hatchling housing

Provide:

  • Fine loose sand
  • Several inches of diggable depth
  • Small surface hides
  • Drinking droplets
  • Excellent ventilation
  • Appropriate low-level UVB

Hatchling substrate

Do not rear hatchlings permanently on paper simply because they are small.

Their normal burrowing behaviour begins early.

A short quarantine period on simple substrate may be appropriate where medically justified, but long-term husbandry should support natural digging.


Hatchling temperature

Maintain approximately:

77–82°F (25–28°C)

during the day with a small warmer surface zone.


Hatchling nighttime temperature

Allow nighttime cooling toward approximately:

68–72°F (20–22°C).


Hatchling humidity

Keep the enclosure generally dry while providing:

  • Localised deeper moisture
  • Periodic drinking droplets

Avoid tropical humidity.


Hatchling diet

Suitable foods include:

  • Pinhead crickets
  • Tiny roach nymphs
  • Small flies
  • Other appropriately sized micro-invertebrates

Hatchling feeding

Offer food approximately:

4–6 times per week

during early growth.


Hatchling supplementation

Feeders should be:

  • Gut loaded
  • Lightly calcium dusted
  • Supplemented appropriately with vitamins

Provide suitable low-level UVB.


Quarantine

All newly acquired animals should undergo quarantine.

At least:

90 days

is a sensible general minimum.


Quarantine challenge

A simple quarantine enclosure must still provide:

digging opportunity.

A desert gecko should not be forced to spend months unable to burrow unless required for specific veterinary treatment.


Quarantine monitoring

Monitor:

  • Weight
  • Appetite
  • Faeces
  • Hydration
  • Activity
  • Shedding
  • Breathing
  • External parasites

Wild-caught animals

Wild-caught animals can arrive with:

  • Dehydration
  • Internal parasites
  • External parasites
  • Injuries
  • Nutritional deficiencies
  • Chronic stress

Captive-bred specimens should be strongly preferred.


Parasite screening

Veterinary faecal testing is particularly useful for:

  • Wild-caught animals
  • Imports
  • Animals of uncertain history
  • Animals losing weight

Treatment should be based upon diagnosis.


Common health concerns

Potential health problems include:

  • Dehydration
  • Overheating
  • Chronic excessive humidity
  • Retained shed
  • Nutritional deficiency
  • Metabolic bone disease
  • Parasites
  • Respiratory disease
  • Trauma
  • Reproductive complications

Dehydration

Desert species still require water.

Possible signs include:

  • Sunken eyes
  • Reduced activity
  • Poor shedding
  • Weakness
  • Weight loss

Do not attempt to treat dehydration simply by making the entire enclosure humid.

Instead review:

  • Drinking opportunities
  • Localised moisture
  • Temperature
  • Overall health

Overheating

One of the most serious husbandry errors is interpreting desert origin as meaning:

extreme heat everywhere.

In nature the gecko escapes daytime surface heat by burrowing.

Captive animals must also have access to substantially cooler retreat temperatures.


Excessive humidity

Persistent wet conditions can contribute to:

  • Skin problems
  • Respiratory disease
  • Mould
  • Poor substrate hygiene

Retained shed

Inspect:

  • Toes
  • Tail
  • Around the eyes

Persistent shedding problems should prompt a review of hydration and health.


Metabolic bone disease

Possible signs include:

  • Weakness
  • Tremors
  • Limb deformity
  • Soft jaw
  • Abnormal movement

Appropriate:

  • Calcium
  • UVB
  • Vitamin D
  • Diet

are important preventive measures.


Respiratory disease

Warning signs include:

  • Open-mouth breathing
  • Wheezing
  • Clicking
  • Nasal discharge
  • Increased respiratory effort

Seek veterinary care.


Reproductive problems

Breeding females may develop:

  • Calcium depletion
  • Poor body condition
  • Egg retention

Possible warning signs include:

  • Persistent digging without laying
  • Abdominal swelling
  • Weakness
  • Straining
  • Reduced feeding

Seek veterinary assistance promptly.


Veterinary red flags

Seek a suitably experienced reptile veterinarian for:

  • Persistent anorexia
  • Significant weight loss
  • Severe dehydration
  • Abnormal breathing
  • Persistent abnormal faeces
  • Tremors
  • Weakness
  • Significant injury
  • Neurological signs
  • Prolapse
  • Suspected egg retention

Cleaning

Spot-clean regularly.

Remove:

  • Faeces
  • Dead prey
  • Shed skin
  • Mould
  • Contaminated patches of sand

Sand replacement

Do not unnecessarily replace the entire substrate every few days.

However, contaminated areas should be removed and the substrate refreshed as necessary.


Water hygiene

Clean the water dish regularly.

Any misting equipment should also be maintained hygienically.


Disinfection

For deeper cleaning:

  • Remove the gecko
  • Remove substrate
  • Use reptile-appropriate disinfectant
  • Follow correct dilution
  • Observe contact time
  • Rinse where required
  • Allow the enclosure to dry completely before adding clean substrate

Never mix disinfectants.


Sourcing

Whenever possible, obtain:

documented captive-bred Pachydactylus rangei.

Ask for:

  • Scientific name
  • Captive-bred status
  • Hatch date
  • Sex
  • Parent information
  • Feeding history
  • Supplementation
  • Incubation information where available
  • Health history

Conservation considerations

The species has a relatively specialised natural habitat.

Although it occurs across portions of Namibia, Angola and northwestern South Africa, its dependence upon coastal dune systems makes responsible sourcing important.

Avoid supporting unnecessary wild collection where established captive-bred animals are available.


Legal considerations

Always check current legislation governing:

  • Acquisition
  • Collection
  • Import
  • Export
  • Transport
  • Keeping
  • Breeding
  • Sale

Animals originating from Namibia or other range states may be subject to wildlife export and collection regulations even where private possession is legal in the destination country.


Never release captive geckos

Never release captive reptiles into the environment.

Released animals may:

  • Die
  • Spread pathogens
  • Affect native wildlife
  • Establish non-native populations

Arrange responsible rehoming instead.


Common husbandry mistakes

Common mistakes include:

  • Using shallow substrate
  • Preventing normal burrowing
  • Using coarse gravel instead of fine sand
  • Using calcium sand
  • Providing too little floor space
  • Placing heavy rocks loosely on deep sand
  • Heating the entire enclosure excessively
  • Providing no cool underground retreat
  • Using under-tank heating as the primary heat source
  • Providing no nighttime temperature drop
  • Keeping the enclosure tropical and humid
  • Saturating the substrate
  • Providing no periodic drinking droplets
  • Assuming desert species do not need water
  • Poor ventilation
  • Providing no UVB
  • Excessive UVB without retreat
  • Feeding only crickets
  • Poor gut loading
  • Incorrect supplementation
  • Excessive handling
  • Housing incompatible adults together
  • Breeding females in poor body condition
  • Failing to provide a suitable moist laying microclimate
  • Damaging eggs while excavating
  • Incubating eggs excessively wet
  • Failing to quarantine new animals
  • Purchasing poorly documented wild-caught stock

Responsible ownership

Before obtaining a Namib Web-Footed Gecko, ensure you can provide:

  • A wide terrestrial enclosure
  • Deep fine sand
  • Genuine burrowing opportunities
  • Safe surface furnishings
  • A controlled warm area
  • Cooler deep substrate
  • Significant nighttime cooling
  • Generally dry conditions
  • Localised moisture
  • Periodic drinking droplets
  • Excellent ventilation
  • Low-level UVB
  • A varied live-insect diet
  • Correct gut loading
  • Appropriate supplementation
  • Minimal handling
  • Quarantine
  • Veterinary care
  • Long-term commitment

Summary

The Namib Web-Footed Gecko (Pachydactylus rangei) is a specialised nocturnal dune gecko from the Namib region of southwestern Africa.

Current taxonomy recognises Pachydactylus rangei as the valid scientific name; older literature often refers to the species as Palmatogecko rangei.

Its webbed feet are adaptations for moving through and excavating loose dune sand.

For one adult, provide at least approximately:

24 × 18 × 18 in (60 × 45 × 45 cm),

with substantially greater floor area preferred.

Provide at least:

6–8 in (15–20 cm)

of fine, loose, diggable sand, with deeper sections highly beneficial.

Maintain daytime ambient temperatures around:

77–84°F (25–29°C)

with a limited warm surface area around:

86–90°F (30–32°C).

Allow nighttime temperatures to fall to approximately:

64–72°F (18–22°C).

The enclosure should remain generally dry, around:

30–50% ambient humidity,

while providing localised deeper moisture and periodic nighttime access to drinking droplets.

Do not maintain the species in a humid tropical environment.

Provide low-level UVB around:

UVI 0.5–1.5

at exposed surface positions, with burrows and shaded retreats approaching zero.

Feed a varied diet of appropriately sized, gut-loaded and correctly supplemented live invertebrates.

Routine handling should be minimal.

Individual housing is the safest default.

Females generally produce:

one or two hard-shelled eggs, most commonly two,

which are buried in sand.

Published captive breeding records commonly report incubation around:

84–86°F (29–30°C)

with hatching often occurring after approximately:

50–80 days.

Captive-bred animals should be strongly preferred.


IMPORTANT INFORMATION:

This care sheet provides general husbandry guidance and does not replace species-specific research or veterinary advice. Individual requirements may vary.

Always check current legislation governing the acquisition, collection, import, transport, keeping, breeding or sale of reptiles in your jurisdiction.

If you have concerns about an animal’s health or care, consult a suitably experienced exotic or reptile veterinarian.

Information correct at the date of publication.

reptilecommunity.com | Revised: August 2026