Pacman Frog (Ceratophrys spp.) Care Sheet

ReptileCommunity · November 29, 2025, 10:49pm

A complete guide for the successful keeping of this large, mostly stationary, terrestrial, and burrowing amphibian.

1. Overview & Commitment

Common Name: Pacman Frog, Ornate Horned Frog, South American Horned Frog
Scientific Name: Ceratophrys spp. (e.g., C. ornata, C. cranwelli)
Natural Habitat: Humid grasslands and forests of South America. They are almost exclusively terrestrial/fossorial, spending most of their time buried in the substrate, waiting for prey.
Size: Very stout and wide. Females typically reach 10 – 15 cm (4 – 6 inches); males are smaller.
Lifespan: 6 – 15 years in captivity.
Temperament: Mostly sedentary, ambush predators. They are known for being voracious eaters and should be handled minimally. They are primarily nocturnal but will feed during the day.

Pacman Frogs need simple, secure housing with a strong focus on deep substrate for burrowing.

Minimum Enclosure Size (Single Adult): 40-liter or 10-gallon terrarium (approx. 50 \times 25 \times 30 \text{ cm} or 20 \times 10 \times 12 \text{ inches}) is suitable. Focus on floor space rather than height.
Enclosure Type: Glass or plastic terrariums with a screen lid for ventilation.
Structure: Simple setup. Provide a few pieces of cork bark, robust live/artificial plants, or large leaves for cover, but the frog will typically rearrange the décor or bury itself.
Note: These frogs are solitary and should never be housed together, as they are highly territorial and cannibalistic.

Deep, safe, and clean substrate is the most vital part of their environment.

Substrate Layer (Mandatory): A layer of at least 10 – 15 cm (4 – 6 inches) of substrate is essential for burrowing. Ideal materials are Coconut Fiber (Coco Coir), Sphagnum Moss, or a soil/moss mixture.
Moisture: The substrate should be kept consistently damp (like a wrung-out sponge), but not wet or waterlogged.
Avoid: Small gravel, small pebbles, or pure sand, as these can cause impaction if ingested.

Pacman Frogs require a moderate, stable temperature gradient.

Primary Heat Source: An overhead heat source, such as a low-wattage Deep Heat Projector (DHP) or a small under-tank heating mat (UTH), connected to a Thermostat.
Temperature Gradient: Aim for a warm side of 24^\circ\text{C} – 27^\circ\text{C} (75^\circ\text{F} – 80^\circ\text{F}) and a cool side of 21^\circ\text{C} – 24^\circ\text{C} (70^\circ\text{F} – 75^\circ\text{F}).
Nighttime: Temperatures can safely drop a few degrees but should not fall below 18^\circ\text{C} (65^\circ\text{F}).

While technically nocturnal, low-level UV is often recommended.

Ambient Light: A low-wattage LED on a timer for observation and to maintain a clear day/night cycle.
UVB (Recommended): A low-level UVB source (e.g., a ShadeDweller or 5% T5 tube) is beneficial for overall health, despite their burrowing nature.
Photoperiod: Maintain a consistent 10-12 hour cycle.

High humidity is critical to prevent desiccation.

Ambient Humidity: Must be maintained between 70% and 85%.
Misting: Light misting of the enclosure once or twice daily with dechlorinated water is usually sufficient to maintain substrate moisture and air humidity.
Water Dish: A large, shallow water dish (big enough for the frog to soak its entire body) must be available at all times and checked/cleaned daily.

Pacman Frogs are highly aggressive, sit-and-wait ambush predators. Their diet must be varied and sized appropriately.

Staple Diet: Appropriately sized Crickets, Dubia Roaches, Earthworms, and Silkworms.
Supplemental Feeders (Occasional Treat): Small, pre-killed mice (pinkies/fuzzies) or small fish should be offered very sparingly (once a month or less) due to high fat and protein content, which can lead to obesity and liver issues.
Feeding Frequency:
- Juveniles: Feed every 3-4 days.
- Adults: Feed every 7-10 days.

Calcium Powder (Pure): Dust feeder insects every feeding.
Multivitamin: Dust feeder insects 1–2 times per month.
Feeding Safety: Always use long feeding tongs to deliver food. Never attempt to hand-feed, as they have powerful jaws and teeth and often mistake fingers for food.

8. Handling & Maintenance
- Handling: Avoid handling completely. Their skin is sensitive, and handling causes stress. If necessary, wear gloves and gently encourage the frog to walk into a container.
- Maintenance: Spot-clean feces daily. Change out all substrate every 4–6 weeks.
- Aestivation (Hibernation): If conditions become too dry or cool, the frog may “aestivate” by burying itself and forming a dry skin cocoon. While natural, this should be avoided in captivity by maintaining optimal humidity and temperature.