Spiny Flower Mantis (Pseudocreobotra wahlbergii) Care Sheet
The Spiny Flower Mantis (Pseudocreobotra wahlbergii) is a striking African mantis famous for its compact size, colourful floral camouflage and dramatic defensive display.
Adults typically show a combination of cream, white, green and pinkish tones, while the wings carry bold spiral or eye-like markings that become highly visible when the mantis adopts a threat posture.
Despite its delicate appearance, the Spiny Flower Mantis is a specialised ambush predator. It waits among vegetation for small flying insects before seizing them with powerful raptorial forelegs.
This species is generally best suited to intermediate keepers. Husbandry is not exceptionally difficult, but young nymphs can be sensitive to poor ventilation, unsuitable humidity, inappropriate prey size and inadequate moulting space.
Successful care depends upon individual housing, warm temperatures, excellent ventilation, moderate humidity, suitable live prey and generous unobstructed vertical space for moulting.
Quick Facts
Scientific name: Pseudocreobotra wahlbergii
Common names: Spiny Flower Mantis, African Spiny Flower Mantis
Order: Mantodea
Family: Hymenopodidae
Origin: Sub-Saharan Africa
Adult female size: Approximately 4–5 cm
Adult male size: Approximately 3–4 cm
Diet: Carnivorous/insectivorous
Lifestyle: Arboreal ambush predator
Activity: Primarily diurnal
Housing: Individually
Temperature: Approximately 24–30°C
Humidity: Moderate, with excellent ventilation
Handling: Limited gentle handling possible
Flight: Adult males are capable fliers
Experience level: Intermediate
Major requirements: Live prey, ventilation and safe moulting space
Natural Distribution
Pseudocreobotra wahlbergii originates from parts of:
Sub-Saharan Africa.
It inhabits warm environments containing:
- Shrubs
- Flowering vegetation
- Grassland edges
- Bushland
- Insect-rich vegetation
Its body pattern allows it to remain concealed while waiting for prey.
Appearance
The Spiny Flower Mantis is one of the most decorative smaller mantises in captivity.
Typical features include:
- Cream or pale body colour
- Green markings
- Pink or purple tones
- Lobed abdomen
- Spiny body projections
- Colourful wings
- Distinctive eye-like wing markings
Individual colouration can vary considerably.
Eye-Spot Wings
The adult wings contain large contrasting markings often described as:
eye spots.
When threatened, the mantis can spread its wings and expose these markings suddenly.
This can make the animal appear larger and more intimidating to a potential predator.
Defensive Display
A threatened Spiny Flower Mantis may:
- Raise its body
- Extend the raptorial forelegs
- Spread its wings
- Expose the colourful eye spots
- Turn toward the disturbance
The display is impressive but should not be deliberately provoked repeatedly.
Do Not Trigger Threat Displays for Entertainment
A defensive display means the mantis believes it may be in danger.
Repeatedly frightening the animal simply to photograph the display is unnecessary.
Allow defensive behaviour to occur naturally.
Adult Size
Spiny Flower Mantises are relatively small.
Adult females generally reach approximately:
4–5 cm.
Adult males are smaller and slimmer, commonly around:
3–4 cm.
Despite their small size, adults remain efficient predators.
Sexual Dimorphism
Males and females differ noticeably as they mature.
Females are generally:
- Larger
- Broader
- Heavier
- More robust
Males are generally:
- Smaller
- Slimmer
- Lighter
- More mobile
- Better fliers
Adult Females
Adult females typically have:
- Broad abdomens
- More substantial bodies
- Stronger overall build
- Developed wings
Their heavier body makes them less accomplished fliers than males.
Adult Males
Adult males are:
- Slender
- Lightweight
- More active
- Better fliers
They can take flight suddenly during enclosure maintenance.
Sexing Nymphs
Nymphs can often be sexed by counting visible abdominal segments underneath the body.
Females generally show:
six visible abdominal segments.
Males generally show:
eight visible abdominal segments.
This becomes easier as nymphs grow.
Why Early Sexing Is Useful
Sexing juvenile mantises can help with:
- Breeding plans
- Monitoring development
- Predicting adult size
- Managing male and female maturation timing
Males often mature earlier than females.
Raptorial Forelegs
The front legs are modified into:
raptorial forelegs.
These possess strong spines used to grip prey.
A hunting mantis can strike extremely quickly.
Hunting Style
The Spiny Flower Mantis is an:
ambush predator.
It often remains motionless until prey comes within range.
Its floral appearance can help it blend into vegetation while waiting for visiting insects.
Diet
Spiny Flower Mantises require:
live invertebrate prey.
Suitable foods include:
- Fruit flies
- House flies
- Green bottle flies
- Blue bottle flies
- Small roaches
- Small locusts
- Other appropriately sized captive-bred insects
Flying prey is particularly useful.
Hatchling Food
Very young nymphs require tiny prey.
Suitable first foods include:
- Drosophila melanogaster
- Drosophila hydei
Choose prey according to the size of the nymph.
Flies
Flies are excellent feeders for this species.
They:
- Remain active
- Move through upper enclosure levels
- Trigger natural hunting behaviour
- Are easy for an arboreal mantis to detect
As the mantis grows, gradually increase fly size.
Roaches
Small feeder roaches can provide dietary variety.
Choose:
- Small individuals
- Active species
- Prey the mantis can overpower comfortably
Avoid large or heavily armoured roaches.
Locusts
Small appropriately sized locusts may be offered to larger nymphs and adults.
Avoid oversized prey.
Crickets
Crickets can be used cautiously but are not ideal as the only feeder.
They can:
- Bite
- Hide
- Disturb moulting mantises
- Injure freshly moulted animals
Remove uneaten crickets.
Wild-Caught Prey
Wild insects should generally be avoided.
Potential risks include:
- Pesticides
- Parasites
- Pathogens
- Unknown chemical exposure
Captive-bred feeders are safer.
Prey Size
Offer prey the mantis can control safely.
Avoid feeders that are:
- Excessively large
- Aggressive
- Capable of injuring the mantis
Young nymphs require proportionally smaller prey.
Feeding Frequency
Feeding frequency varies according to:
- Age
- Temperature
- Prey size
- Body condition
- Reproductive status
Young nymphs generally require more frequent feeding than adults.
Abdomen Condition
The abdomen is a useful guide.
A relatively thin abdomen may indicate the mantis is ready to feed.
A very full abdomen suggests another meal is not immediately necessary.
Overfeeding
Avoid keeping the mantis constantly overfed.
Excessive abdominal weight may contribute to:
- Reduced mobility
- Increased fall risk
- General strain
Feed according to condition rather than simply offering prey continuously.
Premoult Fasting
A mantis approaching a moult often stops eating.
This is normal.
If premoult is suspected:
- Remove uneaten prey
- Maintain suitable hydration
- Avoid handling
- Minimise disturbance
Housing
Spiny Flower Mantises should normally be housed:
individually.
Suitable enclosures include:
- Tall acrylic mantis enclosures
- Mesh insect cages
- Well-ventilated terrariums
- Purpose-built mantis housing
Why Individual Housing Is Best
Mantises are predators.
Cannibalism can occur between:
- Nymphs
- Juveniles
- Adults
- Mating pairs
Individual housing gives the safest control over feeding and moulting.
Enclosure Size
A useful general rule is approximately:
three times the mantis’ body length in height
and:
twice the body length in width.
For an adult, an enclosure around:
15 × 15 × 20–25 cm or larger
can work well.
Moulting Height
Vertical clearance is critical.
The mantis must hang upside down while moulting.
It needs enough space to:
- Attach securely overhead.
- Hang freely.
- Split the old exoskeleton.
- Pull itself downward.
- Extend the legs.
- Remain suspended while hardening.
Clear Moulting Zone
Leave unobstructed space beneath the roof.
Do not pack every part of the enclosure with:
- Branches
- Decorations
- Feeding dishes
- Dense plants
A moulting mantis should not strike objects underneath it.
Roof Grip
The enclosure roof should provide secure grip.
Suitable materials include:
- Fine plastic mesh
- Fabric insect mesh
- Other safe textured surfaces
Smooth glass or acrylic alone is unsuitable.
Metal Mesh
Avoid rough or sharp metal mesh.
Delicate mantis feet can become:
- Damaged
- Trapped
- Worn
Fine insect-safe mesh is preferable.
Ventilation
Excellent ventilation is essential.
Spiny Flower Mantises should not be kept in a:
sealed, constantly wet enclosure.
Poor airflow can encourage:
- Mould
- Persistent condensation
- Bacterial growth
- Unhealthy conditions
Cross-Ventilation
Cross-ventilation is especially useful.
Suitable designs include:
- Ventilation on opposite sides
- Side ventilation plus roof mesh
This allows air to move through the enclosure.
Temperature
A useful general daytime range is approximately:
24–30°C.
Around:
25–28°C
provides a practical routine target.
Moderate nighttime cooling is usually acceptable.
Heating
Additional heating may be required in cooler homes.
If heating is used, it should be:
- External
- Gentle
- Thermostatically controlled
Avoid placing the enclosure against an uncontrolled heater.
Thermostat
Any dedicated heating equipment should ideally be controlled using:
a reliable thermostat.
Small enclosures can heat rapidly.
Direct Sunlight
Never position the enclosure in direct sunlight.
A transparent enclosure can become dangerously hot within minutes.
Humidity
Spiny Flower Mantises require moderate humidity.
A useful general range is approximately:
50–70% relative humidity.
Around moulting periods, maintaining reliable hydration is particularly important.
Humidity and Ventilation
Humidity should never be achieved by eliminating airflow.
The ideal enclosure provides:
appropriate moisture plus excellent ventilation.
Avoid permanently saturated conditions.
Misting
Light misting can provide:
- Drinking droplets
- Temporary humidity
- Support for hydration
Frequency depends upon enclosure conditions.
Drinking
Mantises commonly drink droplets from:
- Enclosure walls
- Leaves
- Mesh
- Branches
Observe whether the mantis drinks after misting.
Direct Spraying
Avoid forcefully spraying the animal.
Use a fine mist directed mainly toward nearby surfaces.
Water Bowls
Open water bowls are generally unnecessary.
Hydration can normally be supplied through:
- Prey
- Drinking droplets
- Appropriate humidity
Standing water can pose a risk to small nymphs.
Substrate
Simple substrate is sufficient.
Suitable options include:
- Paper towel
- Plain paper
- Thin coco fibre
- Naturalistic substrate
Paper is particularly easy to keep clean.
Paper Flooring
Paper allows easy monitoring of:
- Droppings
- Feeder remains
- Mould
- General cleanliness
Replace it when soiled.
Furnishings
Useful enclosure furnishings include:
- Thin branches
- Artificial plants
- Pesticide-free live plants
- Small pieces of cork bark
Always preserve adequate moulting clearance.
Live Plants
Live plants can create an attractive display.
They must be:
- Pesticide free
- Free from harmful residues
- Safe for the enclosure
Recently purchased ornamental plants should not automatically be considered safe.
Lighting
Provide a normal day/night cycle.
Approximately:
12 hours light and 12 hours dark
is a practical starting point.
UVB
Dedicated UVB lighting is not generally considered essential.
Any artificial lighting should not:
- Overheat the enclosure
- Excessively dry it
- Prevent a normal dark period
Activity
Spiny Flower Mantises are primarily visual daytime predators.
They may spend long periods:
- Motionless
- Watching nearby movement
- Waiting for prey
This is normal ambush behaviour.
Swaying
A mantis may sway gently while walking.
This may help imitate vegetation moving in the wind.
The behaviour is normal.
Handling
Occasional gentle handling is possible.
However, handling is not necessary for the animal’s welfare.
Allow the mantis to:
walk voluntarily onto your hand.
Never grab the abdomen.
Handling Area
Handle only:
- Indoors
- In a closed room
- Away from open windows
- Away from exterior doors
- Away from fans and pets
Adult males can fly.
Jumping
Nymphs may jump unexpectedly.
Keep hands close to a safe surface.
Adult Male Flight
Adult males are capable fliers.
They may take off suddenly during enclosure maintenance.
Take additional care once a male reaches adulthood.
Adult Females
Adult females are heavier and less agile in flight.
However, they can still move or flutter unexpectedly.
Do not assume a female cannot escape.
Defensive Behaviour
A threatened Spiny Flower Mantis may:
- Raise its forelegs
- Turn toward the threat
- Spread its wings
- Expose eye spots
- Strike
- Attempt to move away
Respect defensive behaviour.
Raptorial Strikes
An adult mantis can grip skin with its spined forelegs.
This may feel uncomfortable.
The species is:
not venomous.
Moulting
Moulting is the most vulnerable period of development.
Correct enclosure design is essential.
Premoult Signs
Possible signs include:
- Refusal of food
- Reduced activity
- Prolonged upside-down hanging
- Avoidance of prey
Remove feeders when premoult is suspected.
During Moulting
Never:
- Handle the mantis
- Move the enclosure unnecessarily
- Introduce prey
- Spray directly onto the animal
- Touch the exuvia
A fall during moulting can be fatal.
Freshly Moulted Mantises
Immediately after moulting, the new exoskeleton is soft.
The mantis may appear:
- Pale
- Weak
- Delicate
- Unusually stretched
Leave it undisturbed.
Feeding After a Moult
Do not immediately offer large prey.
Wait until the mantis has:
- Hardened
- Regained normal grip
- Returned to normal posture
Exuvia
The discarded old exoskeleton is called the:
exuvia.
It can usually be removed after the mantis has finished moulting and moved away.
Mismoults
Possible causes include:
- Insufficient height
- Poor grip
- Inappropriate humidity
- Dehydration
- Physical obstruction
- Disturbance
- Falls
Prevention is much easier than attempting to correct a severe mismoult.
Final Moult
The final moult produces the adult wings.
Adequate clearance is especially important because the wings must:
- Expand
- Straighten
- Harden
without obstruction.
Wing Deformities
A problematic final moult can result in:
- Crumpled wings
- Bent wings
- Uneven expansion
Adult wing deformities cannot be corrected through another moult.
Nymph Housing
Young nymphs require:
- Fine ventilation
- Secure roof grip
- Appropriate warmth
- Moderate humidity
- Tiny live prey
- Adequate moulting clearance
Increase enclosure size as the animal grows.
Escape Prevention
Hatchlings can escape through very small openings.
Check:
- Mesh size
- Door gaps
- Lid seams
- Ventilation holes
before introducing small nymphs.
Nymph Growth
Nymphs develop through a sequence of:
instars.
Each instar ends with a moult.
The mantis gradually develops:
- Larger size
- Adult colouration
- Wing buds
- Mature sexual characteristics
Sexing
Sex becomes increasingly easy to identify with growth.
Abdominal segment counting is particularly useful.
At adulthood, females are noticeably broader and heavier while males are slimmer and more mobile.
Social Housing
Spiny Flower Mantises should generally be kept:
individually.
They are predatory and cannibalism is possible at all stages.
Cannibalism
Cannibalism risk increases when:
- Animals are hungry
- Size differences exist
- Space is restricted
- One animal is moulting
Never assume apparently calm cohabitation means the animals are safe together.
Breeding
Breeding requires careful management.
You will need:
- Mature male
- Mature female
- Correct timing
- Well-fed female
- Suitable introduction space
Female Maturity
Do not introduce a male immediately after the female reaches adulthood.
Allow time for:
- Hardening
- Feeding
- Reproductive maturation
Male Maturity
Adult males also require time after their final moult before breeding.
Preparing the Female
Feed the female thoroughly before introducing the male.
This can reduce but does not eliminate the risk of sexual cannibalism.
Introducing the Male
Allow the male to approach:
from behind.
Avoid placing him directly in front of the female.
Provide sufficient space for retreat.
Courtship
A male may:
- Observe the female
- Approach cautiously
- Pause
- Jump onto her back
Avoid unnecessary interference once mating behaviour begins.
Sexual Cannibalism
Females may attack or consume males.
Cannibalism can occur:
- Before mating
- During mating
- After mating
Breeding attempts should therefore be monitored carefully.
After Mating
Once mating is complete and the male separates, remove him when safe.
Do not permanently cohabit adults.
Ootheca
Females produce protective egg cases called:
oothecae.
Each ootheca can contain multiple developing eggs.
Ootheca Attachment
Oothecae may be attached to:
- Branches
- Mesh
- Enclosure walls
- Decorations
Avoid pulling a firmly attached ootheca away unnecessarily.
Ootheca Production
A healthy female may produce several oothecae during adulthood.
Not every ootheca will necessarily be fertile.
Ootheca Incubation
Maintain fertile oothecae with:
- Warm temperatures
- Moderate humidity
- Excellent ventilation
Do not soak them.
Incubation Temperature
Approximately:
24–28°C
provides a useful general incubation range.
Stable warmth is preferable to excessive heating.
Incubation Humidity
Moderate humidity is appropriate.
Allow good air exchange.
Light occasional misting can prevent excessive drying, but heavy condensation should be avoided.
Incubation Time
Oothecae commonly hatch after approximately:
4–8 weeks
although development time can vary.
Do not discard a healthy-looking ootheca simply because an expected hatch date has passed.
Hatching
A successful ootheca may produce:
dozens of nymphs.
Prepare before hatching begins.
Preparing for Hatchlings
Have ready:
- Fruit fly cultures
- Small rearing enclosures
- Fine ventilation
- Secure roof mesh
- Suitable warmth
- Appropriate humidity
Never wait until hatchlings appear before arranging their food supply.
Hatchling Diet
Newly hatched nymphs usually begin with:
small fruit flies.
Drosophila melanogaster is particularly useful for tiny hatchlings.
Nymph Cannibalism
Young nymphs can cannibalise one another.
Individual housing provides the lowest risk.
If temporarily maintained in groups, provide:
- Abundant prey
- Significant space
- Many climbing surfaces
Separate them as soon as practical.
Population Planning
Breeding even a small mantis species can result in a considerable number of individual animals.
Before breeding, ensure you can provide:
- Enough enclosures
- Enough feeder insects
- Enough time for maintenance
- Appropriate space
- Responsible homes for surplus offspring
Lifespan
Lifespan varies according to:
- Sex
- Temperature
- Feeding
- Reproductive activity
- Individual genetics
Females generally live longer than males.
The complete life cycle commonly lasts around:
one year, though individual variation is normal.
Health
Most captive health problems are linked to husbandry.
Important risks include:
- Mismoults
- Dehydration
- Falls
- Feeder injuries
- Overheating
- Excessive moisture
- Poor ventilation
- Pesticide exposure
Warning Signs
Potential concerns include:
- Repeated falling
- Inability to grip
- Severe limb deformity
- Loss of coordination
- Failed moulting
- Persistent weakness
- Prolonged refusal of food unrelated to premoult
Hanging Upside Down
Hanging upside down is normal.
A mantis may be:
- Resting
- Hunting
- Preparing to moult
Do not disturb it simply because of this posture.
Cleaning
Routine maintenance should include:
- Removing dead feeders
- Removing prey remains
- Removing droppings
- Replacing dirty substrate
- Removing mould
Avoid major enclosure disturbance when a moult appears imminent.
Prey Remains
Partially eaten feeders can:
- Decay
- Attract mites
- Encourage mould
Remove them regularly.
Mites
Mites often become more noticeable when:
- Food remains accumulate
- Humidity is excessive
- Ventilation is poor
Correct husbandry rather than using insecticides.
Household Chemicals
Keep the enclosure away from:
- Fly spray
- Flea treatments
- Ant killer
- Household insecticides
- Garden pesticides
Products designed to kill insects can also kill captive mantises.
Aerosols
Avoid spraying near the enclosure:
- Air fresheners
- Cleaning sprays
- Perfume
- Deodorising aerosols
Ventilation allows airborne chemicals to enter easily.
Pesticide Exposure
Possible signs of poisoning include:
- Trembling
- Weak grip
- Loss of coordination
- Falling
- Rapid deterioration
Prevention is essential.
Quarantine
New mantises should remain separately housed.
Individual housing already makes this straightforward.
Monitor:
- Feeding
- Grip
- Coordination
- Moulting
- General condition
Captive-Bred Animals
Captive-bred animals should be preferred.
Advantages include:
- Known age
- Known developmental stage
- Established captive feeding
- Reduced wild collection
- Better traceability
Responsible Sourcing
Before obtaining a Spiny Flower Mantis, ask:
- Is it captive-bred?
- What instar is it?
- When did it last moult?
- What prey is it currently eating?
- Has it been sexed?
Legal Considerations
Regulations concerning exotic mantises vary between jurisdictions.
Restrictions may apply to:
- Possession
- Breeding
- Sale
- Transport
- Import
- Export
Always verify current local requirements.
Never Release Captive Mantises
Never release:
- Adults
- Nymphs
- Oothecae
into the environment.
Non-native predatory insects may pose ecological risks.
Common Husbandry Mistakes
Common mistakes include:
- Housing multiple mantises together
- Enclosures that are too short
- Poor roof grip
- Insufficient ventilation
- Excessive humidity
- Complete dehydration
- Oversized prey
- Leaving crickets with a moulting mantis
- Handling during moulting
- Overfeeding
- Direct sunlight
- Uncontrolled heating
- Underestimating adult male flight
- Breeding without preparing for hatchlings
Are Spiny Flower Mantises Suitable for Beginners?
They are best considered:
beginner-to-intermediate or intermediate.
Their husbandry is manageable, but they require more attention than the most forgiving beginner mantises.
Important considerations include:
- Live prey
- Humidity and ventilation balance
- Safe moulting space
- Individual housing
- Cannibalism
- Adult male flight
A careful keeper who understands basic mantis husbandry can maintain them successfully.
Educational Value
The Spiny Flower Mantis provides excellent opportunities to observe:
- Floral camouflage
- Eye-spot defensive displays
- Ambush predation
- Raptorial feeding
- Sexual dimorphism
- Moulting
- Wing development
- Courtship
- Ootheca production
- Incomplete metamorphosis
Its dramatic transition from camouflage to a bold defensive display makes it particularly fascinating.
Responsible Ownership
Before obtaining a Spiny Flower Mantis, ensure you can provide:
- Individual housing
- Reliable live feeders
- Tall ventilated accommodation
- Secure overhead grip
- Suitable temperature and humidity
- Appropriate moulting clearance
- Safe indoor handling conditions
Anyone planning to breed must also be prepared for numerous hatchlings.
Summary
The Spiny Flower Mantis (Pseudocreobotra wahlbergii) is a beautifully patterned African mantis known for its floral camouflage and spectacular eye-spot wing display.
Although relatively small, it is an efficient ambush predator requiring live insect prey throughout its life.
Successful husbandry requires individual housing, a tall and well-ventilated enclosure, secure overhead grip, warm temperatures, moderate humidity, appropriate drinking opportunities and correctly sized captive-bred prey.
A daytime temperature of approximately 24–30°C, with around 25–28°C providing a useful routine target, is suitable for many individuals. Humidity around 50–70% can be used as a general guide provided ventilation remains excellent.
Young nymphs can begin on fruit flies before progressing onto larger flies and other suitable feeders.
Moulting is the most vulnerable stage of development. The enclosure must provide sufficient clearance for the mantis to hang completely free, and live feeders should be removed whenever premoult is suspected.
The species should normally be housed individually because cannibalism can occur. Adult males are slimmer and more capable fliers than females, so enclosure maintenance should always take place indoors in a secure room.
Breeding produces protective egg cases called oothecae, which can hatch into dozens of small nymphs. Appropriate rearing containers and established fruit fly cultures should therefore be prepared before hatching.
With suitable ventilation, warmth, feeding and moulting space, Pseudocreobotra wahlbergii is a striking and rewarding species for keepers wanting a colourful medium-difficulty mantis.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
This care sheet provides general husbandry guidance and does not replace current species-specific research or applicable wildlife and import legislation.
Spiny Flower Mantises are predatory insects and should normally be housed individually because cannibalism can occur.
Provide secure overhead grip and substantial unobstructed vertical space for moulting. Never handle or disturb a mantis while it is actively moulting or immediately afterwards.
Maintain moderate humidity together with excellent ventilation rather than permanently wet, stagnant conditions.
Offer appropriately sized captive-bred live prey and remove potentially dangerous feeders when a moult is approaching.
Adult males can fly. Always carry out handling and enclosure maintenance indoors away from open windows and exterior doors.
Never release captive adults, nymphs or oothecae into the environment.
Always verify current regulations concerning possession, breeding, sale, transport, import and export in your jurisdiction.
Information correct at the date of publication.
reptilecommunity.com | Revised: August 2026