Vietnamese Stick Insect (Medauroidea extradentata) Care Sheet
The Vietnamese Stick Insect (Medauroidea extradentata), also widely known as the Annam Stick Insect, is a medium-sized, wingless phasmid originating from Vietnam. It has been maintained in captivity for many decades and is regarded as one of the easier stick insects to keep and breed.
Its slender body, subdued brown or greenish colouration and elongated legs provide excellent camouflage among stems and vegetation. Females are larger and more robust than males, with small thorn-like projections contributing to the species’ alternative common name, the Thorny Stick Insect.
Although straightforward compared with many exotic phasmids, successful husbandry still depends upon several essential requirements: a tall and well-ventilated enclosure, adequate unobstructed moulting space, continuous access to fresh pesticide-free foliage and careful management of the large numbers of eggs females can produce.
Captive cultures frequently reproduce through parthenogenesis, meaning females can produce viable offspring without mating. Some bisexual cultures containing males also exist.
Quick Facts
Scientific name: Medauroidea extradentata
Common names: Vietnamese Stick Insect, Annam Stick Insect, Thorny Stick Insect
Order: Phasmatodea
Origin: Vietnam
Adult female length: Approximately 10–11 cm
Adult male length: Approximately 7–8 cm
Diet: Herbivorous
Activity: Primarily nocturnal
Lifestyle: Arboreal
Wings: Absent in both sexes
Experience level: Beginner
Handling: Gentle occasional handling possible
Social housing: Generally suitable with adequate space
Reproduction: Sexual or parthenogenetic depending upon captive culture
Common food plants: Bramble, hawthorn, oak and rose
Natural Distribution
Medauroidea extradentata originates from Vietnam.
The species was historically associated with the Annam region, explaining the common name Annam Stick Insect.
It has subsequently become extremely well established in captive culture and has been bred for generations outside its native range.
Appearance
The Vietnamese Stick Insect has the classic elongated shape associated with phasmids.
Its appearance includes:
- A long narrow body
- Slender legs
- Twig-like camouflage
- Long antennae
- Wingless adults
- Brown, tan or greenish colouration
When motionless among branches, the outline of the insect can be remarkably difficult to distinguish from surrounding vegetation.
Adult Females
Females are the larger sex and commonly reach approximately:
10–11 cm in body length.
They are generally:
- Broader than males
- More robust
- Shorter-antenned than males
- Equipped with small projections or spines
The Phasmid Study Group records females at approximately 110 mm.
Adult Males
Where males occur, they are considerably slimmer and smaller.
Adult males are approximately:
7–8 cm in body length.
They possess proportionally longer antennae and a more slender overall build.
The Phasmid Study Group records males at approximately 75 mm.
Are Males Common?
Not necessarily.
The species can reproduce sexually, but many long-established captive populations have lost their males and continue entirely through parthenogenesis.
Consequently, some keepers may maintain the species for many generations without ever encountering a male.
Wingless Species
Both sexes are:
wingless.
Vietnamese Stick Insects cannot fly.
This makes adult containment somewhat easier than with winged phasmids, although they remain excellent climbers and still require a secure enclosure.
Camouflage
The primary defence of Medauroidea extradentata is camouflage.
Their body resembles:
- Thin twigs
- Stems
- Dried vegetation
When resting, they often align themselves with branches and remain almost completely motionless.
Swaying Behaviour
Like many stick insects, Vietnamese Stick Insects may gently sway from side to side.
This behaviour is thought to enhance camouflage by resembling:
vegetation moving in a breeze.
It is normal and should not automatically be interpreted as distress.
Housing
The enclosure should be:
- Tall
- Secure
- Well ventilated
- Easy to clean
- Large enough for unrestricted moulting
Suitable options include:
- Mesh phasmid cages
- Tall insect enclosures
- Ventilated terrariums
- Appropriately modified plastic enclosures
Vertical space is particularly important.
Enclosure Size
For a small group of adults, an enclosure around:
30 × 30 × 45 cm or larger
provides a practical starting point.
Larger groups require additional space.
The exact dimensions are less important than ensuring that every insect has sufficient room to climb and moult without obstruction.
The Three-Times Rule
A useful general rule for stick insect housing is that the enclosure should be at least:
three times the adult body length in height
with sufficient usable clearance beneath the moulting position.
For an approximately 11 cm female, this means an enclosure should provide substantially more than 30 cm of functional vertical space.
More height is preferable.
Why Moulting Height Matters
Stick insects grow by shedding their exoskeleton.
To moult successfully, an insect normally:
- Climbs to an elevated position.
- Anchors itself securely.
- Hangs downward.
- Splits the old exoskeleton.
- Pulls its body and legs free.
- Hangs while the new exoskeleton expands.
- Waits while the new body hardens.
If there is insufficient space beneath the insect, the moult can fail.
Failed Moults
A serious mismoult can result in:
- Bent legs
- Trapped limbs
- Inability to grip
- Falls
- Permanent deformity
- Death
Prevention is far better than attempting to intervene once a severe moulting problem has occurred.
Clear Vertical Space
A tall enclosure can still be unsuitable if it is packed too densely.
Do not fill every part of the enclosure with:
- Branches
- Decorations
- Food containers
Leave unobstructed areas beneath high climbing surfaces so an insect can hang freely.
Ventilation
Good ventilation is extremely important.
The species does not require a permanently saturated enclosure.
Stagnant conditions encourage:
- Mould
- Decay
- Poor hygiene
- Excessive condensation
Published husbandry guidance describes M. extradentata as readily maintained at ordinary room temperatures with well-ventilated housing.
Mesh Enclosures
Mesh phasmid cages are particularly useful because they provide:
- Excellent airflow
- Large climbing surfaces
- Good moulting grip
- Easy attachment of food branches
The disadvantage is that they dry more rapidly, so hydration and room conditions still require attention.
Solid-Sided Enclosures
Glass or plastic enclosures can also work provided they have:
substantial ventilation.
A mostly sealed container with a few tiny air holes is not equivalent to a properly ventilated phasmid enclosure.
Cross-ventilation is beneficial.
Temperature
Vietnamese Stick Insects are tolerant of normal warm household conditions.
A useful target is approximately:
20–25°C.
One established husbandry guideline recommends approximately 22–24°C, with a modest nighttime reduction.
Avoid:
- Excessive heat
- Prolonged cold
- Sudden temperature extremes
Heating
Many homes will not require additional heating.
If supplemental heat is necessary, use:
- Gentle external heating
- Thermostatic control
- Accurate temperature monitoring
Never allow heating equipment to create an excessively hot or dry enclosure.
Direct Sunlight
Never place the enclosure in direct sunlight.
A transparent enclosure can become dangerously hot surprisingly quickly.
Keep it away from:
- Sunny windows
- Radiators
- Strong heaters
Humidity
Moderate humidity combined with excellent ventilation is appropriate.
The enclosure should not remain permanently wet.
The objective is to provide enough environmental moisture for hydration and successful moulting while still allowing good air exchange.
Misting
Light misting can provide:
- Drinking droplets
- Temporary humidity
- Additional hydration
How frequently misting is required depends upon:
- Enclosure ventilation
- Room humidity
- Temperature
- Season
Observe the enclosure rather than following an inflexible schedule.
Drinking
Vietnamese Stick Insects commonly drink droplets from:
- Leaves
- Mesh
- Other enclosure surfaces
Lightly misting foliage therefore provides a convenient source of drinking water.
Avoid soaking the insects directly.
Water Dishes
An ordinary open water bowl is unnecessary.
Small nymphs can drown in surprisingly shallow water.
The greatest water hazard usually comes from containers used to keep cut food branches fresh.
Food-Plant Water Containers
Cut branches can be placed into a jar or container of water.
However, the opening must be securely blocked using:
- Foam
- Mesh
- Cotton wool
- Another suitable barrier
Only the stems should enter the water.
No insect should be able to fall inside.
Substrate
A complicated substrate is unnecessary.
Suitable flooring includes:
- Paper towel
- Plain paper
- Easily replaced liner
- A thin layer of appropriate natural substrate
For breeding colonies, paper-based flooring is particularly convenient.
Why Paper Flooring Works Well
Paper makes it easy to:
- Identify eggs
- Remove frass
- Monitor cleanliness
- Detect mould
- Replace the enclosure floor
Because females simply drop their eggs, this greatly simplifies egg collection.
Naturalistic Substrate
Natural substrate can be used if preferred.
However, eggs can become extremely difficult to distinguish and may remain hidden.
Treat discarded substrate as potentially containing viable eggs.
Furnishings
Most enclosure furnishings should serve a practical purpose.
Useful additions include:
- Food branches
- Twigs
- Mesh surfaces
- Safe climbing branches
Avoid unnecessary heavy decorations that reduce moulting clearance.
Diet
Vietnamese Stick Insects are entirely herbivorous.
Established food plants include:
- Bramble
- Hawthorn
- Oak
- Rose
These food plants are listed by the Phasmid Study Group for Medauroidea extradentata.
Bramble
Bramble is one of the most useful staple food plants.
Blackberry and related Rubus foliage is:
- Widely available
- Readily accepted
- Often available for much of the year
- Easy to maintain as cut branches
Research and established husbandry sources both document Rubus species as suitable food.
Rose
Rose leaves can be accepted readily.
However, commercially produced ornamental roses can be dangerous because they may have been treated with:
- Insecticides
- Systemic pesticides
- Fungicides
Do not assume a plant is safe simply because no chemical residue is visible.
Oak
Oak is another established food plant for the species.
Correctly identify the tree and collect only from locations where pesticide contamination is not a concern.
Because oak is deciduous, another food source will generally be required outside the growing season.
Hawthorn
Hawthorn is also an established captive food plant.
Avoid collecting foliage from:
- Busy roadsides
- Sprayed hedgerows
- Agricultural boundaries where chemical use is uncertain
Food Plant Safety
Pesticide contamination is one of the greatest avoidable dangers in phasmid husbandry.
Never use leaves if you suspect exposure to:
- Insecticides
- Herbicides
- Systemic pesticides
- Other harmful chemicals
An insecticide exists specifically to kill insects; a stick insect can therefore be extremely vulnerable to residues.
Washing Leaves
Rinsing collected foliage is sensible for removing:
- Dust
- Dirt
- Loose contaminants
- Small unwanted animals
However:
washing cannot make a systemically treated plant safe.
Systemic chemicals are absorbed into plant tissues.
When treatment history is uncertain, choose another food source.
Wild Food Collection
Choose collection areas away from:
- Heavy traffic
- Agricultural spraying
- Recently treated public spaces
- Industrial contamination
- Chemically maintained gardens
Learning to identify reliable year-round food sources is an important part of responsible phasmid keeping.
Inspecting Wild Foliage
Before putting collected branches into the enclosure, inspect them for:
- Spiders
- Predatory insects
- Caterpillars
- Snails
- Other unwanted invertebrates
Small predators can be particularly dangerous to hatchlings.
Keeping Food Fresh
Cut branches last considerably longer when placed in water.
Helpful practices include:
- Recutting stems
- Using clean water
- Changing water regularly
- Removing dead foliage
- Keeping the enclosure away from excessive heat
Remember to cover the water-container opening.
Continuous Food Availability
Fresh suitable foliage should remain available:
at all times.
Do not deliberately fast stick insects.
Replace food before all leaves become dry or completely wilted.
Changing Food Plants
If newly acquired insects have been raised on a particular plant, continue providing that plant initially.
Introduce another accepted food alongside it.
This is safer than abruptly replacing a familiar food with something completely different.
Frass
Stick insect droppings are known as:
frass.
Frass generally appears as small dry pellets beneath feeding and resting areas.
Regular removal improves enclosure hygiene.
Lighting
Specialist lighting is normally unnecessary.
A normal day/night cycle is sufficient.
Ambient room daylight can provide appropriate environmental cues, provided the enclosure is not placed in direct sunlight.
UVB
Dedicated UVB lighting is not generally considered necessary for routine Vietnamese Stick Insect husbandry.
If artificial lighting is used for plants or display purposes, ensure it does not:
- Overheat the enclosure
- Excessively dry the foliage
- Prevent a normal dark period
Activity
Vietnamese Stick Insects are primarily active during:
the evening and night.
During daylight they frequently remain almost motionless.
After dark they may become considerably more active and begin:
- Feeding
- Walking
- Exploring
- Repositioning themselves
Defensive Behaviour
Their main defence is avoiding detection.
When threatened, they may:
- Freeze
- Sway
- Drop from vegetation
- Remain motionless
They are not aggressive animals.
Thanatosis
A frightened stick insect may become extremely still and appear dead.
This defensive behaviour is often described as:
thanatosis, or death-feigning.
Give the insect time and avoid repeatedly disturbing it.
Handling
Vietnamese Stick Insects can tolerate occasional gentle handling.
The safest approach is to:
allow the insect to walk onto your hand voluntarily.
Handling should be calm and close to a surface.
Never Pull Them from a Branch
A stick insect can grip strongly.
If you pull its body while its feet remain attached, you can cause:
- Leg loss
- Joint injury
- Physical trauma
Encourage the insect to release its feet naturally.
Handling Nymphs
Tiny nymphs are considerably more delicate than adults.
Avoid unnecessary handling.
For transfers, encourage a nymph onto:
- A leaf
- Small twig
- Suitable soft brush
rather than pinching or grabbing it.
Autotomy
Stick insects can sometimes shed a limb deliberately when trapped or threatened.
This process is called:
autotomy.
Although useful as an escape mechanism in nature, it should not be considered harmless.
Limb Regeneration
Juvenile stick insects may regenerate lost limbs during subsequent moults.
A replacement limb may initially be:
- Smaller
- Shorter
- Less developed
Additional moults can improve its size and function.
An adult with no remaining moults cannot regenerate a missing limb in the same way.
Moulting
Growth occurs through repeated moults.
Each moult is a vulnerable event.
Before moulting, an insect may:
- Reduce feeding
- Become less active
- Climb higher
- Hang beneath a branch or enclosure roof
Leave it undisturbed.
During a Moult
Never handle an actively moulting stick insect.
The new body is extremely soft and the insect relies upon gravity to extract itself correctly.
Disturbance can result in:
- Falls
- Trapped limbs
- Deformity
- Death
Freshly Moulted Insects
Immediately after a successful moult, the insect may appear:
- Pale
- Soft
- Weak
- Different in colour
Allow the exoskeleton to harden before handling or performing major enclosure maintenance.
Exuvia
The discarded old exoskeleton is called the:
exuvia.
Stick insects may consume part or all of it.
This is normal and can recycle nutrients.
There is no need to remove it immediately unless it creates a hygiene problem.
Instars
The developmental stage between two moults is known as an:
instar.
Nymphs pass through multiple instars before reaching adulthood.
With each successful moult, they become progressively larger.
Nymph Housing
Young nymphs require the same basic principles as adults:
- Good ventilation
- Appropriate humidity
- Fresh foliage
- Vertical space
- Secure climbing surfaces
However, escape prevention becomes much more important.
Escape-Proofing for Hatchlings
A gap that easily contains an adult may be enormous to a hatchling.
Inspect:
- Mesh size
- Door gaps
- Lid edges
- Ventilation holes
- Cable openings
before eggs begin hatching.
Nymph Feeding
Young nymphs can consume the same suitable host plants as adults.
Provide tender fresh foliage positioned where hatchlings can reach it easily.
Small feeding marks can be difficult to see at first.
Encouraging Initial Feeding
If newly hatched nymphs appear reluctant to feed, some keepers lightly trim the edges of suitable leaves to expose fresh tissue.
This can make the feeding edge easier to access.
If the nymphs are already feeding normally, there is no need to interfere.
Social Housing
Vietnamese Stick Insects can generally be kept communally.
A group requires sufficient:
- Food
- Climbing surfaces
- Moulting positions
- Vertical clearance
The limiting factor should be welfare rather than simply how many insects can physically fit inside the cage.
Overcrowding
Overcrowding increases the risk of:
- Failed moults
- Falls
- Limb damage
- Food shortages
- Excessive waste
- Disturbance between insects
Split colonies as numbers increase.
Mixed-Species Housing
Keeping different phasmid species together is generally unnecessary.
Species can differ in:
- Temperature requirements
- Humidity preferences
- Food plants
- Adult size
- Behaviour
Separate species-specific enclosures make husbandry easier to control.
Reproduction
Medauroidea extradentata has a particularly interesting reproductive history in captivity.
The species is capable of sexual reproduction, but many captive stocks became entirely or predominantly female and reproduce through:
parthenogenesis.
Parthenogenesis
Parthenogenesis allows a female to produce viable eggs:
without mating with a male.
Consequently, a keeper does not need a pair to breed Vietnamese Stick Insects.
A single female may eventually establish an entire colony.
Sexual Cultures
Bisexual cultures containing males also exist.
Where males and females are present, sexual reproduction can occur.
This explains why some sources describe the species as sexual while many established captive cultures are maintained parthenogenetically.
Egg Laying
Females do not need a nest box.
They generally:
drop eggs onto the enclosure floor.
The eggs become mixed with frass and other enclosure debris.
Paper flooring makes collection much easier.
Egg Production
A mature female can produce substantial numbers of eggs.
With multiple adult females, numbers can increase very rapidly.
Before incubating eggs, consider:
- Future enclosure space
- Food availability
- Time required for maintenance
- Suitable homes for offspring
Eggs
Eggs are small and relatively easy to overlook.
They should be distinguished carefully from:
- Frass
- Small pieces of substrate
- Plant debris
Once familiar with their appearance, identification becomes much easier.
Collecting Eggs
Eggs can be collected during routine cleaning.
A simple system is to:
- Remove the insects and food as necessary.
- Inspect the enclosure floor.
- Separate the number of eggs you intend to incubate.
- Deal responsibly with unwanted viable eggs.
- Replace dirty flooring.
Do not automatically incubate every egg.
Egg Incubation
Eggs can be incubated in a small ventilated container under stable moderate conditions.
The incubation medium should provide appropriate moisture without leaving the eggs permanently wet.
Good airflow remains important.
Incubation Temperature
Normal warm room conditions are generally suitable.
Approximately:
20–25°C
provides a sensible range for captive incubation.
A research protocol successfully maintained eggs at 25°C and 60% relative humidity, although laboratory conditions should not be treated as the only acceptable husbandry method.
Incubation Time
Egg development is relatively quick compared with species such as the Jungle Nymph.
Established husbandry guidance reports incubation of approximately:
1.5–3 months, although individual results vary with conditions and culture.
Do not discard apparently healthy eggs merely because another egg hatched earlier.
Staggered Hatching
Eggs from the same group may not all hatch simultaneously.
Continue maintaining viable-looking eggs while monitoring for:
- Mould
- Excessive drying
- Hatchlings
Hatchlings
Newly emerged nymphs should have immediate access to:
- Fresh accepted foliage
- Fine climbing surfaces
- Drinking droplets
- Suitable humidity
- Moulting height
Ensure the rearing enclosure is escape-proof before hatching begins.
Growth Rate
Under suitable conditions, nymphs can reach adulthood within several months.
One established husbandry reference gives approximately:
4–6 months to maturity.
Temperature, nutrition and individual variation can affect development.
Adult Lifespan
Adult lifespan is considerably shorter than the multi-year lifespan seen in many reptiles and arachnids.
Published husbandry guidance reports an adult lifespan of approximately:
4–6 months, although individual longevity can vary.
Population Management
Population control is one of the most important aspects of keeping parthenogenetic phasmids.
A few females can become:
- Dozens
- Then hundreds
if every egg is incubated.
Plan ahead.
Do Not Hatch Every Egg
There is no husbandry requirement to incubate every viable egg.
Responsible breeding means producing only the number of offspring that can be:
- Properly housed
- Properly fed
- Responsibly rehomed
This is particularly important for species capable of reproducing without males.
Unwanted Eggs
Unwanted viable eggs must be managed so they cannot hatch into the environment.
Do not simply discard them:
- In the garden
- Into outdoor compost
- On waste vegetation outdoors
Follow appropriate local environmental and animal-welfare requirements.
Never Release Captive Stick Insects
Never release:
- Adults
- Nymphs
- Eggs
into the wild.
This applies even if you believe the local climate is unsuitable.
Captive non-native herbivorous insects should remain securely contained.
Health
Most problems encountered in this species are associated with husbandry rather than infectious disease.
Important risks include:
- Mismoults
- Dehydration
- Limb loss
- Falls
- Pesticide exposure
- Overheating
- Poor ventilation
- Overcrowding
Warning Signs
Potential reasons for concern include:
- Repeated falling
- Inability to grip
- Severe deformity
- Incomplete moulting
- Loss of coordination
- Persistent weakness
- Failure to feed accompanied by deterioration
Remember that reduced feeding immediately before a moult can be normal.
Pesticide Poisoning
Possible signs of chemical exposure can include:
- Trembling
- Loss of coordination
- Falling
- Poor grip
- Rapid deterioration
There may be little that can be done once serious poisoning occurs.
Safe food sourcing is therefore essential.
Cleaning
Routine enclosure maintenance should include:
- Removing excessive frass
- Removing dead foliage
- Replacing food branches
- Cleaning plant-water containers
- Removing mould
- Replacing dirty paper flooring
Avoid disturbing insects that are preparing to moult.
Check Waste for Eggs
Before disposing of enclosure waste, inspect it carefully.
Eggs can be hidden among:
- Frass
- Dead leaves
- Paper
- Substrate
This is important both for preserving wanted eggs and preventing accidental environmental release of unwanted ones.
Household Chemicals
Keep the enclosure away from:
- Fly sprays
- Ant killers
- Flea treatments
- Aerosol insecticides
- Garden pesticides
Highly ventilated insect enclosures provide little protection from airborne chemicals.
Aerosols
Avoid spraying strong products close to the enclosure, including:
- Air fresheners
- Cleaning aerosols
- Perfume
- Deodorising sprays
Where chemical cleaning is necessary elsewhere in the room, ensure the insects cannot be exposed.
Quarantine
New insects should ideally be maintained separately before joining an established colony.
Observe:
- Feeding
- Moulting
- General condition
- Food-plant acceptance
- Possible unwanted organisms
Quarantine also allows confirmation that the new animals are correctly identified.
Captive-Bred Stock
This species has been maintained in captivity for generations and is easy to reproduce.
Captive-bred animals should therefore be strongly preferred.
There is generally no justification for encouraging unnecessary wild collection of a species so readily propagated in captivity.
Responsible Sourcing
Before obtaining Vietnamese Stick Insects, ask the breeder:
- What food plant are they currently eating?
- What instar or approximate age are they?
- Are they from a sexual or parthenogenetic culture?
- Are males present in the culture?
- When did any purchased eggs approximately originate?
These details make the transition into a new enclosure easier.
Legal Considerations
Regulations concerning phasmids vary significantly between jurisdictions.
Because stick insects are non-native plant-eating insects in many countries, restrictions may apply to:
- Possession
- Breeding
- Sale
- Transport
- Import
- Export
Always check current rules applicable to your location before acquiring or distributing them.
Invasive-Species Responsibility
Parthenogenetic reproduction makes containment particularly important.
An escaped female does not necessarily require a male before producing viable eggs.
This reinforces the need for:
- Secure enclosures
- Responsible egg disposal
- No deliberate release
Common Husbandry Mistakes
Common mistakes include:
- Using an enclosure that is too short
- Filling all available moulting space
- Poor ventilation
- Excessive moisture
- Allowing food to dry completely
- Feeding chemically treated foliage
- Leaving open water containers
- Pulling insects from branches
- Handling during moulting
- Overcrowding
- Failing to manage eggs
- Assuming a female cannot reproduce without a male
- Accidentally discarding viable eggs outdoors
Most are easily prevented through planning.
Are Vietnamese Stick Insects Suitable for Beginners?
Generally:
Yes.
They are among the more accessible captive phasmids.
Advantages include:
- Straightforward housing
- Commonly available food plants
- Moderate temperature requirements
- Calm behaviour
- No flight
- Easy captive reproduction
The major lessons a beginner must learn are:
safe food sourcing, adequate moulting height and responsible population control.
Educational Value
Medauroidea extradentata is an excellent species for observing:
- Camouflage
- Herbivory
- Moulting
- Incomplete metamorphosis
- Limb regeneration
- Parthenogenesis
- Nocturnal activity
Its relatively rapid life cycle makes it particularly useful for observing an entire insect generation.
Responsible Ownership
Before obtaining Vietnamese Stick Insects, make sure you can provide:
- Safe pesticide-free foliage throughout the year
- A tall ventilated enclosure
- Adequate moulting clearance
- Secure hatchling containment
- Responsible egg management
- Space for any offspring intentionally produced
Their ease of reproduction is both one of their most fascinating characteristics and one of the biggest husbandry responsibilities.
Summary
The Vietnamese Stick Insect (Medauroidea extradentata) is a hardy, fascinating and relatively beginner-friendly phasmid originating from Vietnam.
Both sexes are wingless, although males are considerably slimmer and smaller than females. Many captive cultures contain few or no males and reproduce through parthenogenesis, allowing females to produce viable offspring without mating.
Successful husbandry requires a tall, well-ventilated enclosure, adequate unobstructed moulting space, moderate temperatures and a continuous supply of fresh pesticide-free foliage. Established food plants include bramble, hawthorn, oak and rose.
Vertical space is essential. Like other phasmids, Vietnamese Stick Insects must hang freely while shedding their exoskeleton, and insufficient clearance can cause serious mismoults.
Although they can tolerate occasional gentle handling, their legs remain delicate. Never pull an insect from a surface; allow it to walk voluntarily.
Breeding is extremely straightforward in parthenogenetic cultures. Females drop eggs onto the enclosure floor, and established husbandry literature reports incubation commonly taking around 1.5–3 months.
Because females can continually produce viable eggs without males, responsible population control is essential. Keepers should incubate only the number of eggs they can realistically accommodate and must never release adults, nymphs or eggs into the environment.
With appropriate food, ventilation, moulting space and sensible population management, Medauroidea extradentata is an excellent species for observing phasmid camouflage, development, regeneration and reproduction.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
This care sheet provides general husbandry guidance and does not replace current species-specific research or applicable wildlife, agricultural and import legislation.
Food plants must be correctly identified and free from pesticides, herbicides and other harmful chemical treatments. Washing foliage does not make systemically treated plants safe.
Always provide substantial unobstructed vertical space for moulting and never disturb an insect actively shedding its exoskeleton.
Many captive populations reproduce through parthenogenesis, meaning females can produce viable offspring without males. Responsible egg and population management is therefore essential.
Never release captive adults, nymphs or eggs into the environment.
Always verify current regulations concerning possession, breeding, sale, transport, import and export in your jurisdiction.
Information reviewed against established phasmid husbandry references at the date of publication.
reptilecommunity.com | Revised: August 2026