Western Hognose Snake (Heterodon nasicus) Care Sheet

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Western Hognose Snake (Heterodon nasicus) Care Sheet

​A complete guide for the successful keeping of this small, charismatic, and semi-fossorial (burrowing) colubrid snake from the central plains of North America.

​1. Overview & Natural Habitat

• ​Common Name: Western Hognose Snake, Hognose, Hoggy

• ​Scientific Name: Heterodon nasicus

• ​Natural Habitat: Dry, sandy or gravelly soils across the Great Plains of North America. They are known for their upturned snout, which they use for burrowing (a primary behavior).

• ​Size: One of the smallest pet snakes. Males typically reach 30 – 60 cm (12 – 24 inches); females are larger, reaching 60 – 90 cm (24 – 36 inches).

• ​Lifespan: 15 – 20+ years in captivity.

• ​Temperament: Generally docile and curious. They exhibit unique defensive behaviors: hissing, puffing up, and “playing dead” (thanatosis), but they are generally reluctant to bite. They are diurnal (daytime active).

​2. Vivarium/Enclosure

​Hognose Snakes are small but active and highly enjoy burrowing. The enclosure should accommodate a deep substrate layer.

• ​Minimum Enclosure Size (Adult): Due to their small size, a floor space of 90 x 45 cm (36 x 18 inches) (equivalent to a 30-40 gallon breeder tank) is a comfortable minimum for most adults.

• ​Enclosure Type: Glass terrariums or PVC/plastic enclosures are suitable. Enclosures must be secure and escape-proof.

• ​Hides (Minimum of 2): Provide at least one dark, secure hide on the cool side and one on the warm spot to allow choice of temperature while remaining secure.

• ​Enrichment: Provide cork bark, rocks, and small branches for climbing, and ample open space for burrowing and exploring.

​3. Substrate

​A deep, dry, and loose substrate is essential to facilitate their natural burrowing behavior.

• ​Recommended Substrate: A deep layer (at least 10 – 15 cm or 4-6 inches) of a dry, loose substrate like Aspen Shavings (allows great tunnels), Paper Shreds, or a sand/soil mix (60% organic topsoil, 40% play sand).

• ​Depth: The substrate must be deep enough for the snake to completely submerge itself and tunnel.

• ​Avoid: Pine or cedar shavings (toxic oils), or reptile carpets.

​4. Heating & Temperature

​Hognose Snakes require a dry heat source and a clear thermal gradient.

• ​Primary Heat Source: An overhead heat source, such as a Deep Heat Projector (DHP) or a Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE), is recommended, connected to a dimming or pulse proportional thermostat.

• ​Basking Surface Temperature (Warm Spot): 32°C – 35°C (90°F – 95°F). This should be measured directly on the substrate surface under the heat source.

• ​Cool Ambient Side: 24°C – 27°C (75°F – 80°F).

• ​Night Time Temperatures: Temperatures can safely drop to 18°C (65°F). Supplemental heat is usually not required unless ambient room temperatures fall below this range.

• ​ Crucial Safety Tip: All heating elements must be connected to a Thermostat to prevent burns and overheating.

  ​5. Lighting & UV

  ​As a diurnal species, full-spectrum lighting is important, and UVB is highly recommended for optimal health.

  • ​Ambient Light: Provide an ambient light source on a 12-hour cycle to regulate their day/night rhythm.

  • ​UVB Light (Recommended): A low-level UVB source (e.g., a 5-6% T5 linear fluorescent tube) is highly recommended to support overall health, especially because they are active during the day.

  • ​Photoperiod: Maintain a consistent 12 hour day/12 hour night cycle.

  ​6. Humidity & Hydration

  ​Hognose Snakes are arid-dwelling and require relatively low humidity.

  • ​Ambient Humidity: Should be maintained in a low range of 30% to 50%. Too high humidity (above 60%) can cause respiratory issues and blister disease.

  • ​Hydration: A small, heavy water bowl must be provided at all times, placed on the cool side to minimize evaporation.

  • ​Shedding: If the snake is struggling to shed, providing a small, temporary humid hide filled with damp sphagnum moss can help.

  ​7. Diet & Feeding

  ​Western Hognose Snakes are carnivores that primarily eat rodents.

  • ​Staple Diet: Pre-killed, frozen/thawed mice are the standard staple. Live feeding is unnecessary and risky.

  • ​Feeder Size: Prey items should be no wider than the snake’s widest point.

  • ​Scenting (Important): Hognose Snakes are specialized toad-eaters in the wild and can be picky. If a snake refuses to eat, the rodent may need to be “scented” with a mild odor like tuna juice, chicken broth, or even shed lizard skin to encourage a feeding response.

  • ​Feeding Schedule (Approximate):

    • ​Hatchlings/Juveniles: Feed an appropriately sized pinky mouse every 5-7 days.

    • ​Adults: Feed a small adult mouse every 7-10 days.

  • ​Preparation: Thaw the frozen mouse completely in a sealed bag in warm water. Offer the mouse using long feeding tongs.

  • ​ Important: Wait at least 48 hours after feeding before handling the snake to allow for proper digestion. Handling too soon can cause the snake to regurgitate its meal.

    ​8. Handling & Temperament

    • ​Taming: Hognose Snakes are typically very docile and tolerate handling well.

    • ​Defensive Behavior: The snake will display a series of harmless bluff defenses when stressed:

      1. ​Hissing/Puffing: Loud exhalations and flattening of the neck (like a cobra). This is a bluff.

      2. ​Head-Tosses: Light nudges, rarely a true bite.

      3. ​Playing Dead (Thanatosis): Rolling onto its back, gaping its mouth, and sometimes defecating. If you flip it over, it will immediately flip back onto its back. This is a bluff and means the snake is very stressed; handling should stop immediately.

    • ​Bites: While technically venomous (rear-fanged), their venom poses almost no threat to humans, and they are incredibly reluctant to bite defensively.

    • ​Hygiene: Always wash your hands thoroughly before and after handling the snake or working in its enclosure.