WHITE-LINED / SKUNK GECKO (GEKKO VITTATUS) CARE SHEET
The White-Lined Gecko (Gekko vittatus), also commonly called the Skunk Gecko, Lined Gecko or White-Striped Gecko, is a striking nocturnal arboreal gecko from the tropical western Pacific region.
Its common name comes from the pale stripe running along the back, which commonly forks across the head and contrasts strongly with the darker body colour.
This is a fast, alert, strongly arboreal species that is best regarded primarily as a display animal rather than a handling gecko.
Successful long-term husbandry depends upon providing a tall, secure enclosure with abundant vertical surfaces, branches and foliage, warm daytime temperatures, a meaningful thermal gradient, moderate-to-high fluctuating humidity, excellent ventilation, low-level UVB, reliable access to fresh water and a varied diet of appropriately supplemented live invertebrates.
Captive-bred animals should be preferred whenever available.
QUICK FACTS
Scientific name: Gekko vittatus
Common names: White-Lined Gecko, Skunk Gecko, Lined Gecko, White-Striped Gecko
Family: Gekkonidae
Origin: Indonesia, Papua New Guinea and parts of the western Pacific
Lifestyle: Arboreal
Activity: Primarily nocturnal
Adult size: Approximately 8–10 in (20–25 cm) total length, with some variation
Diet: Primarily insectivorous
Day temperature: Approximately 77–84°F (25–29°C)
Warm upper area: Approximately 86–90°F (30–32°C)
Night temperature: Approximately 68–75°F (20–24°C)
Humidity: Generally around 65–80%, with higher peaks after misting
UVB: Low-level UVB recommended
Suggested UVI: Approximately 1–2 at exposed resting positions, with shaded areas approaching zero
Adult enclosure: Approximately 18 × 18 × 36 in (45 × 45 × 90 cm) minimum for one adult; larger preferred
Housing: Individual housing is the safest default
Handling: Minimal
Experience level: Intermediate
TAXONOMY
The accepted scientific name is:
Gekko vittatus
The species was described by Houttuyn in 1782.
It remains recognised as a valid species within the genus Gekko.
Older literature may use a variety of historical synonyms, but these should not be confused with separate modern species.
COMMON NAMES
Common names include:
- White-Lined Gecko
- White-Line Gecko
- Lined Gecko
- Skunk Gecko
- White-Striped Gecko
Because common names vary between countries and hobby communities, the scientific name:
Gekko vittatus
should be used when purchasing, breeding or researching the species.
DISTRIBUTION
Gekko vittatus occurs across parts of the tropical western Pacific and Australasian region.
Confirmed range records include areas of:
- Indonesia
- Halmahera
- Morotai
- Papua New Guinea
- Bismarck Archipelago
- Admiralty Islands
- Solomon Islands
- Palau and surrounding island groups
Some historical locality records are questionable, so locality information supplied with captive animals should be preserved where reliable.
NATURAL HABITAT
White-Lined Geckos are strongly arboreal.
They inhabit warm tropical environments and commonly use:
- Tree trunks
- Branches
- Bark
- Forest vegetation
- Rock faces
- Buildings in suitable areas
During daylight they generally remain concealed or flattened against vertical surfaces.
After dark they become much more active.
ACTIVITY
This is primarily a:
nocturnal species.
At night individuals may:
- Patrol branches
- Climb vertical surfaces
- Hunt insects
- Interact vocally
- Explore large portions of the enclosure
ENCLOSURE SIZE
For one adult, provide at least approximately:
18 × 18 × 36 in (45 × 45 × 90 cm).
Larger accommodation is strongly encouraged.
An enclosure around:
24 × 18 × 36 in (60 × 45 × 90 cm)
or larger provides substantially more usable space and allows better environmental gradients.
WHY HEIGHT MATTERS
White-Lined Geckos are highly arboreal.
They spend much of their time above ground and should not be housed in low terrestrial tanks.
Height allows:
- Vertical climbing
- Better thermal gradients
- Multiple resting levels
- UV gradients
- Natural hunting
- Behavioural choice
HEIGHT ALONE IS NOT ENOUGH
A tall empty enclosure is still poor habitat.
Provide extensive internal structure, including:
- Cork bark
- Vertical trunks
- Branches
- Vines
- Live plants
- Sheltered upper retreats
ENCLOSURE TYPE
Suitable options include:
- Glass arboreal terrariums
- PVC arboreal vivariums
- Purpose-built tropical enclosures
The enclosure must combine:
humidity retention with strong ventilation.
ESCAPE SECURITY
White-Lined Geckos are:
- Fast
- Strong climbers
- Able to adhere to smooth surfaces
- Capable of sudden jumps
Ensure the enclosure is completely secure.
Check:
- Door gaps
- Cable openings
- Ventilation gaps
- Mesh seams
- Sliding-door channels
FURNISHINGS
Provide abundant:
- Cork bark
- Vertical cork flats
- Cork tubes
- Natural branches
- Vines
- Roots
- Dense foliage
- Textured backgrounds
VERTICAL SURFACES
Large vertical surfaces are particularly important.
These geckos commonly spend daylight resting against:
- Tree trunks
- Cork
- Bark
- Vertical walls
Provide several surfaces large enough for the entire animal to rest comfortably.
BRANCHES
Provide branches in several orientations:
- Vertical
- Horizontal
- Diagonal
Use different diameters to encourage natural movement.
FOLIAGE
Dense foliage provides:
- Security
- Shade
- Humidity retention
- Drinking surfaces
- UV refuge
- Visual barriers
The gecko should be able to retreat completely from view.
LIVE PLANTS
Suitable robust plants may include:
- Pothos
- Philodendron
- Ficus
- Schefflera
- Dracaena
- Other safe tropical plants
PLANT SAFETY
Avoid plants recently treated with:
- Insecticides
- Miticides
- Herbicides
- Systemic pesticides
- Leaf-polishing products
Wash and prepare plants appropriately before introduction.
TEMPERATURE
Maintain daytime ambient temperatures generally around:
77–84°F (25–29°C).
WARM UPPER AREA
Provide a warmer upper zone around:
86–90°F (30–32°C).
This should occupy only part of the enclosure.
The entire vivarium should never be maintained at the warm-zone temperature.
COOL AREA
Lower and shaded sections should remain cooler.
A temperature gradient allows the gecko to regulate its body temperature behaviourally.
NIGHT TEMPERATURE
Allow temperatures to fall at night to approximately:
68–75°F (20–24°C).
A nighttime decrease is beneficial.
OVERHEATING
Avoid allowing the whole enclosure to remain above:
86°F (30°C).
A warm basking area is appropriate, but the gecko must always have access to cooler shaded regions.
HEATING
Where supplemental heating is required, use:
thermostatically controlled overhead heating.
Suitable options may include:
- Low-wattage halogen lamps
- Appropriate overhead radiant heating
WHY OVERHEAD HEATING?
An arboreal gecko naturally encounters heat and light from above.
Overhead heating also creates a more useful vertical gradient than heating the floor.
THERMOSTAT
All significant heat sources should be:
thermostatically controlled.
Never rely on lamp wattage alone.
TEMPERATURE MONITORING
Use digital thermometers at multiple heights.
Monitor:
- Upper warm area
- Mid enclosure
- Lower cool area
An infrared thermometer is useful for checking branch and bark surface temperatures.
LIGHTING
Provide a consistent day/night cycle.
Approximately:
12 hours light / 12 hours dark
is suitable for routine husbandry.
NIGHT LIGHTING
Provide real darkness at night.
Do not use permanently illuminated:
- Red lamps
- Blue lamps
- Purple lamps
The species is nocturnal but can still perceive visible light.
UVB
Low-level UVB is recommended.
Although White-Lined Geckos are nocturnal, they may rest partially exposed during daylight and can benefit from the opportunity to regulate UV exposure naturally.
UV INDEX
Aim for approximately:
UVI 1–2
at the most exposed upper resting positions.
Provide extensive shade approaching:
UVI 0.
UVB EQUIPMENT
A low-to-moderate output:
linear UVB lamp
is generally appropriate.
The actual lamp required depends upon:
- Enclosure height
- Distance
- Mesh
- Reflector
- Plant cover
- Lamp model
UV METER
Where possible, use a UV Index meter.
Measure at the animal’s actual accessible resting surfaces rather than directly beneath the lamp.
HUMIDITY
Maintain humidity generally around:
65–80%.
Humidity may temporarily rise toward:
80–90% or higher
after misting.
HUMIDITY SHOULD FLUCTUATE
Do not attempt to hold the enclosure at one humidity reading continuously.
A healthy pattern is:
mist → humidity rises → droplets remain available → surfaces gradually dry → humidity falls → repeat.
VENTILATION
Excellent ventilation is essential.
High humidity should never mean:
- Permanently stagnant air
- Permanently wet bark
- Mouldy substrate
- Condensation all day
MISTING
Many enclosures benefit from misting:
once or twice daily.
Evening misting is especially useful because it coincides with the start of nocturnal activity.
DRINKING
White-Lined Geckos commonly lick droplets from:
- Glass
- Leaves
- Bark
- Branches
WATER DISH
Provide:
fresh clean water at all times.
An elevated water dish may be particularly useful.
Do not rely entirely upon misting.
SIGNS OF DEHYDRATION
Possible signs include:
- Sunken eyes
- Wrinkled skin
- Poor shedding
- Reduced activity
- Weakness
- Weight loss
Persistent dehydration should prompt investigation of both husbandry and health.
SUBSTRATE
Suitable substrates include:
- Organic topsoil mixtures
- Coco-based tropical substrate
- Orchid bark
- Leaf litter
- Commercial tropical bioactive substrate
SUBSTRATE MOISTURE
The substrate should remain:
slightly moist rather than saturated.
DRAINAGE
A drainage layer is useful in heavily misted planted enclosures.
This helps prevent waterlogging.
LEAF LITTER
Provide a layer of clean leaf litter.
This helps with:
- Moisture buffering
- Natural appearance
- Microfauna habitat
- Environmental complexity
BIOACTIVE HOUSING
White-Lined Geckos can be maintained successfully in well-established bioactive enclosures.
Suitable clean-up crew organisms include:
- Springtails
- Appropriate tropical isopods
BIOACTIVE DOES NOT MEAN SELF-CLEANING
Continue to:
- Remove dead feeders
- Clean water bowls
- Maintain plants
- Monitor drainage
- Remove heavily contaminated material
- Check for mould
- Inspect equipment
DIET
Gekko vittatus is primarily:
insectivorous.
Provide a varied selection of live invertebrates.
SUITABLE FEEDERS
Suitable prey includes:
- Crickets
- Locusts
- Dubia roaches where legal
- Other captive-bred roaches
- Black soldier fly larvae
- Silkworms
- Moth larvae
- Flies
- Other appropriate captive-bred insects
PREY SIZE
Offer appropriately sized prey.
Avoid excessively large insects that could injure or intimidate the gecko.
FEEDER VARIETY
Do not rely exclusively upon:
crickets.
A varied feeder rotation improves:
- Nutritional diversity
- Enrichment
- Hunting behaviour
- Feeding response
GUT LOADING
All feeder insects should be:
properly gut loaded.
Feed insects nutritious food and provide hydration before offering them to the gecko.
CALCIUM
Dust prey appropriately with:
calcium.
Supplementation frequency should account for:
- UVB exposure
- Age
- Growth
- Sex
- Reproductive status
- Feeder type
VITAMINS
Use a suitable reptile multivitamin according to a planned schedule.
Avoid excessive supplementation.
FEEDING ADULTS
Healthy adults can generally be offered food around:
2–3 times per week.
Adjust according to:
- Body condition
- Activity
- Season
- Individual appetite
- Reproductive status
JUVENILE FEEDING
Growing juveniles require more frequent feeding.
Offer appropriately sized prey:
3–5 times per week
depending upon age and growth rate.
FEEDING TIME
Offer prey primarily:
in the evening or shortly after lights-out.
HUNTING ENRICHMENT
Allow suitable live prey to move across:
- Cork
- Branches
- Foliage
to encourage natural hunting.
REMOVE EXCESS PREY
Do not leave excessive numbers of hungry crickets loose indefinitely.
They can:
- Disturb resting animals
- Bite geckos
- Damage plants
Remove excessive uneaten prey.
BODY CONDITION
Monitor:
- Weight
- Muscle tone
- Tail base
- Activity
- Grip strength
- Overall body shape
A digital gram scale is useful for detecting gradual change.
HANDLING
White-Lined Geckos should be regarded primarily as:
display animals.
Routine handling is unnecessary.
WHY HANDLING IS DIFFICULT
They are:
- Fast
- Strong climbers
- Capable jumpers
- Easily stressed by restraint
- Difficult to recapture after escape
NECESSARY TRANSFERS
When moving an animal:
- Work in a secure room
- Close doors and windows
- Move slowly
- Encourage the gecko onto a branch or container
- Avoid grabbing
- Keep the destination enclosure ready
BITING
A frightened adult may:
- Vocalise
- Lunge
- Bite
Although not dangerous, a bite from a large Gekko can be painful.
Avoid unnecessary restraint.
TAIL SAFETY
Never restrain the animal by:
the tail.
Tail injury or loss can occur under severe stress or trauma.
SOCIAL HOUSING
Individual housing is the:
safest default.
MALES
Adult males should not normally be housed together.
Territorial aggression can result in:
- Fighting
- Bite wounds
- Chronic stress
PAIRS
Compatible male/female pairs can sometimes be maintained successfully.
However, compatibility should never be assumed.
Monitor for:
- Chasing
- Biting
- Weight loss
- Feeding suppression
- Persistent hiding
- Reproductive exhaustion
SPARE ENCLOSURE
Whenever attempting pair housing:
a complete spare enclosure should be available immediately.
SEXING
Adult males typically display:
- Obvious hemipenal bulges
- Strongly developed preanal/femoral pores
Females lack pronounced hemipenal bulges.
FEMALE CALCIUM STORES
Adult females may develop visible calcium-storage structures around the throat area.
These can become especially noticeable during reproductive periods.
BREEDING
Only breed animals that are:
- Mature
- Healthy
- Correctly identified
- Feeding reliably
- Well hydrated
- In strong body condition
BREEDING SEASON
Captive breeding commonly becomes more active during warmer months.
A mild seasonal cycle involving:
- Slight winter cooling
- Reduced photoperiod
- Gradual spring warming
may stimulate reproduction.
FEMALE CONDITION
Breeding females require especially careful attention to:
- Calcium intake
- Vitamin status
- Hydration
- Weight
- Body condition
Repeated egg production can be physiologically demanding.
EGG PRODUCTION
Females typically produce:
two eggs per clutch.
A productive female may produce several clutches during a breeding season.
EGG-LAYING BEHAVIOUR
White-Lined Geckos commonly lay eggs:
above ground.
Eggs may be attached firmly to:
- Branches
- Bark
- Cork
- Rock
- Enclosure walls
- Protected cracks
HARD-SHELLED ATTACHED EGGS
The eggs become firmly adhered to the laying surface.
They should generally be regarded as:
immovable once attached.
NEVER FORCE ATTACHED EGGS OFF
Do not pull or twist an attached egg from:
- Bark
- Glass
- Wood
- Cork
This can rupture or fatally damage the egg.
REMOVABLE LAYING SURFACES
A useful breeding strategy is to provide:
- Removable cork panels
- Cork tubes
- Pieces of bark
- Removable artificial surfaces
This increases the chance that eggs can be incubated without being detached.
PROTECTING EGGS IN SITU
If eggs are attached to a non-removable surface, they can often remain inside the enclosure.
Protect them from:
- Adults
- Hatchlings from previous clutches
- Large feeder insects
- Mechanical damage
A ventilated protective cup or mesh guard may be placed around the eggs.
INCUBATION TEMPERATURE
Where eggs can be incubated separately, a useful range is approximately:
79–82°F (26–28°C).
INCUBATION HUMIDITY
Maintain high ambient humidity around:
80–90%.
However, do not allow eggs to remain sitting in water.
INCUBATION MEDIUM
Attached eggs do not need to be buried in incubation substrate.
Humidity can be maintained using:
- Moist vermiculite
- Moist perlite
placed nearby without burying or soaking the egg.
INCUBATION TIME
Eggs commonly hatch after approximately:
100–110 days
at warm stable incubation temperatures.
However, incubation may extend substantially longer under cooler or more variable conditions.
Periods approaching:
150–200 days
are possible.
HATCHLING SIZE
Hatchlings are approximately:
2.4 in (6 cm)
total length at emergence.
HATCHLING HOUSING
House hatchlings in secure arboreal accommodation with:
- Fine branches
- Cork
- Foliage
- Fresh water
- Correct humidity
- Good ventilation
- Low-level UVB
INDIVIDUAL REARING
Individual rearing is preferred.
This allows precise monitoring of:
- Feeding
- Growth
- Faeces
- Shedding
- Health
It also prevents competition.
HATCHLING ENCLOSURE SIZE
A young hatchling can initially be kept in approximately:
8 × 8 × 12 in (20 × 20 × 30 cm)
or similarly proportioned secure arboreal accommodation.
Move the animal into larger housing as it grows.
HATCHLING TEMPERATURE
Hatchlings can generally be maintained within the same basic temperature range as adults but should have especially reliable access to cooler retreats.
Aim for approximately:
75–82°F (24–28°C)
during the day.
HATCHLING HUMIDITY
Maintain approximately:
65–80%
with regular rises following misting.
Avoid permanently stagnant wet conditions.
HATCHLING FOOD
Offer small prey such as:
- Pinhead crickets
- Fruit flies
- Tiny roach nymphs
- Small fly larvae
- Other appropriately sized insects
HATCHLING FEEDING FREQUENCY
Offer food approximately:
4–6 times per week
for very young growing animals.
Adjust according to body condition and feeding response.
HATCHLING SUPPLEMENTATION
Feeders should be:
- Gut loaded
- Calcium dusted
- Supplemented appropriately with vitamins
Provide low-level UVB.
SEXUAL MATURITY
Sexual characteristics may begin becoming visible within the first several months of growth.
As males mature, they should be separated from other males to prevent aggression.
Avoid breeding immature females.
QUARANTINE
All newly acquired animals should undergo quarantine.
At least:
90 days
is a sensible general minimum.
Longer quarantine may be appropriate for:
- Wild-caught animals
- Imports
- Animals of uncertain history
QUARANTINE MONITORING
Monitor:
- Weight
- Appetite
- Faeces
- Hydration
- Shedding
- Activity
- Breathing
- Parasites
WILD-CAUGHT ANIMALS
White-Lined Geckos have historically been imported as wild-caught animals.
Wild-caught specimens may carry:
- Internal parasites
- External parasites
- Dehydration
- Injuries
- Poor body condition
- Chronic stress
Captive-bred animals should be strongly preferred.
PARASITE SCREENING
Veterinary faecal examinations are particularly useful for:
- Wild-caught animals
- Imports
- Animals of uncertain history
- Animals losing weight
- Animals producing abnormal faeces
Treatment should be based upon diagnosis rather than routine indiscriminate medication.
COMMON HEALTH PROBLEMS
Potential health concerns include:
- Dehydration
- Heat stress
- Retained shed
- Nutritional deficiency
- Metabolic bone disease
- Internal parasites
- External parasites
- Respiratory disease
- Skin infections
- Trauma
- Reproductive complications
- Egg retention
DEHYDRATION
Possible signs include:
- Sunken eyes
- Wrinkled skin
- Poor shedding
- Weakness
- Reduced activity
- Weight loss
Review:
- Misting
- Water access
- Humidity
- Temperature
- Ventilation
RETAINED SHED
Pay particular attention to:
- Toes
- Tail
- Head
- Around the eyes
Retained shed around the toes can restrict circulation.
METABOLIC BONE DISEASE
Possible signs include:
- Weak grip
- Tremors
- Limb deformity
- Soft jaw
- Difficulty climbing
- Abnormal posture
Appropriate UVB, calcium and supplementation reduce risk.
Seek veterinary care if MBD is suspected.
RESPIRATORY DISEASE
Warning signs include:
- Wheezing
- Clicking
- Open-mouth breathing
- Nasal discharge
- Oral mucus
- Increased breathing effort
Veterinary assessment is required.
REPRODUCTIVE PROBLEMS
Breeding females may develop:
- Calcium depletion
- Poor body condition
- Egg retention
Possible warning signs include:
- Persistent restlessness
- Straining
- Abdominal swelling
- Weakness
- Tremors
- Reduced feeding
- Failure to lay expected eggs
Seek veterinary assistance promptly.
VETERINARY RED FLAGS
Seek an experienced reptile veterinarian for:
- Persistent anorexia
- Rapid weight loss
- Severe dehydration
- Persistent diarrhoea
- Regurgitation
- Abnormal breathing
- Nasal or oral discharge
- Tremors
- Weakness
- Poor grip
- Significant wounds
- Neurological signs
- Prolapse
- Suspected egg retention
CLEANING
Spot-clean regularly.
Remove:
- Faeces
- Dead feeder insects
- Shed skin
- Mouldy material
- Contaminated substrate
WATER HYGIENE
Clean and refill water dishes frequently.
Misting-system reservoirs and tubing should also be cleaned routinely.
DISINFECTION
For deeper cleaning:
- Remove the gecko
- Use reptile-appropriate disinfectant
- Follow dilution instructions
- Observe proper contact time
- Rinse where necessary
- Allow surfaces to become safe before reintroduction
Never mix disinfectants.
SOURCING
Whenever possible, purchase a:
documented captive-bred White-Lined Gecko from a reputable breeder.
Ask for:
- Scientific name
- Hatch date
- Sex
- Current weight
- Feeding history
- UVB history
- Supplementation
- Parent identities
- Captive-bred status
- Health history
LOCALITY INFORMATION
If reliable locality data is available, preserve it.
Do not assign an animal a particular locality based only on:
- Colour
- Stripe width
- Body size
Appearance alone is not reliable provenance.
LEGAL CONSIDERATIONS
Check current legislation governing:
- Acquisition
- Collection
- Keeping
- Sale
- Breeding
- Transport
- Import
- Export
before obtaining or moving animals.
NEVER RELEASE CAPTIVE GECKOS
Never release captive reptiles into the environment.
Released geckos may:
- Die
- Spread pathogens
- Affect native wildlife
- Establish non-native populations
Arrange responsible rehoming instead.
COMMON HUSBANDRY MISTAKES
Common mistakes include:
- Housing the species in a low terrestrial enclosure
- Providing too little vertical structure
- Keeping the enclosure too small
- Poor escape security
- Maintaining the whole enclosure too hot
- Providing no cooler retreat
- Using uncontrolled heating
- Poor ventilation
- Keeping the enclosure permanently wet
- Chronic dehydration
- Providing no permanent drinking water
- Providing no UVB
- Excessive UV exposure without shade
- Feeding only crickets
- Poor gut loading
- Incorrect supplementation
- Leaving excessive crickets loose
- Excessive handling
- Grabbing the tail
- Housing adult males together
- Assuming breeding pairs are automatically compatible
- Breeding females in poor body condition
- Pulling attached eggs from surfaces
- Failing to protect eggs left in the adult enclosure
- Incubating eggs excessively hot
- Failing to quarantine new animals
- Purchasing poorly documented wild-caught specimens
RESPONSIBLE OWNERSHIP
Before obtaining a White-Lined Gecko, ensure you can provide:
- A tall secure enclosure
- Abundant vertical bark
- Multiple branches
- Dense foliage
- Appropriate daytime warmth
- A genuine thermal gradient
- Nighttime cooling
- Moderate-to-high fluctuating humidity
- Excellent ventilation
- Regular misting
- Permanent fresh water
- Appropriate low-level UVB
- A varied insect diet
- Correct gut loading
- Appropriate supplementation
- Minimal handling
- Quarantine
- Veterinary care
- Long-term commitment
SUMMARY
The White-Lined Gecko (Gekko vittatus) is a fast, arboreal nocturnal gecko from the tropical western Pacific region.
For one adult, provide at least approximately:
18 × 18 × 36 in (45 × 45 × 90 cm),
with larger accommodation preferred.
Provide abundant:
- Vertical cork
- Branches
- Vines
- Dense foliage
- Elevated hiding areas
Maintain daytime temperatures primarily around:
77–84°F (25–29°C)
with an upper warm area around:
86–90°F (30–32°C).
Allow nighttime temperatures to fall to approximately:
68–75°F (20–24°C).
Maintain humidity generally around:
65–80%
with temporary rises after misting and partial drying between misting periods.
Excellent ventilation is essential.
Provide low-level UVB, approximately:
UVI 1–2
at exposed upper positions, with shaded areas approaching zero.
Feed a varied diet of appropriately sized, gut-loaded and correctly supplemented live insects.
Fresh water should always be available.
Individual housing is the safest default, particularly for non-breeding animals.
Females generally produce:
two hard-shelled eggs per clutch
and commonly attach them firmly to elevated surfaces.
Never forcibly remove attached eggs.
At incubation temperatures around:
79–82°F (26–28°C),
hatching commonly occurs after approximately:
100–110 days,
although cooler or fluctuating conditions can substantially lengthen incubation.
Handling should be minimal.
Captive-bred animals should be preferred wherever possible.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION:
This care sheet provides general husbandry guidance and does not replace species-specific research or veterinary advice. Individual requirements may vary.
Always check current legislation governing the acquisition, collection, import, transport, keeping, breeding or sale of reptiles in your jurisdiction.
If you have concerns about an animal’s health or care, consult a suitably experienced exotic or reptile veterinarian.
Information correct at the date of publication.
reptilecommunity.com | Revised: August 2026