White's Tree Frog (Litoria caerulea) Care Sheet

ReptileCommunity · November 29, 2025, 10:52pm

White’s Tree Frog (Litoria caerulea) Care Sheet

A complete guide for the successful keeping of this large, docile, and popular arboreal amphibian from Australia.

Common Name: White’s Tree Frog, Dumpy Tree Frog, Australian Green Tree Frog
Scientific Name: Litoria caerulea
Natural Habitat: Woodlands and grasslands of northern and eastern Australia and New Guinea. They are highly adaptable and often live near human habitation. They are arboreal (tree-dwelling).
Size: Large for a frog, typically reaching 7 – 12 cm (3 – 5 inches). They are very plump and wide.
Lifespan: 15 – 20+ years in captivity.
Temperament: Docile, robust, and generally lazy during the day. They are primarily nocturnal but will often sit in the open. They are very tolerant of human interaction (though handling should be limited).

White’s Tree Frogs require a vertical enclosure that provides ample climbing space.

Minimum Enclosure Size (2 Adults): 45 x 45 x 60 cm (18 x 18 x 24 inches). A taller enclosure (60 x 45 x 90 cm / 24 x 18 x 36 inches is recommended.
Enclosure Type: Glass terrariums with a screen top for excellent ventilation.
Structure (Crucial): Provide abundant, sturdy, horizontal and diagonal perches (branches, cork tubes, or PVC pipe) of varying diameters. They need strong anchor points to climb and rest.
Foliage: Use robust live plants (like Pothos) or large, sturdy artificial plants to provide cover and climbing opportunities.
Social: They are a social species and do well housed in small groups.

The substrate should manage moisture and support a clean environment.

Recommended Substrate: A layer of Coconut Fiber (Coco Coir), Peat Moss, or a reptile soil mix. It should be deep enough (at least 5 cm or 2 inches) to retain moisture.
Substrate Moisture: Keep the substrate damp, but never soggy, to help maintain air humidity.
Setup: Can be kept in a simple non-bioactive setup (with spot cleaning and periodic substrate changes) or a bioactive setup (with a drainage layer, soil, and cleanup crew like isopods).

White’s Tree Frogs require a moderate, stable temperature range.

Primary Heat Source: An overhead heat source, such as a Deep Heat Projector (DHP) or a low-wattage Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE), connected to a Thermostat.
Temperature Gradient (Daytime): Aim for an ambient range of 24^\circ\text{C} – 27^\circ\text{C} (75^\circ\text{F} – 80^\circ\text{F}).
Basking Spot (Optional): A small basking area on a high branch can reach 28^C 82^F, but should be localized.
Nighttime: Temperatures can safely drop to 20^C – 22^C 68^F – 72^F.

Ambient Light: A full-spectrum LED light is recommended to establish a clear day/night cycle.
UVB (Recommended): A low-level UVB source (e.g., a 5-6% T5 tube) is beneficial for overall health, bone density, and immune function.
Photoperiod: Maintain a consistent 12 hour cycle.

Good hydration is maintained through a large water source and consistent misting.

Ambient Humidity: Should be maintained between 50% and 75%. They are more tolerant of fluctuations than dart frogs.
Misting: Lightly mist the enclosure once or twice daily (preferably in the evening) to simulate dew and raise humidity temporarily. Use dechlorinated water.
Water Dish (Crucial): A very large, sturdy, and shallow bowl of dechlorinated water must be available on the floor at all times. They often soak, drink, and defecate in their water bowl. Change the water daily.

White’s Tree Frogs are robust insectivores with large appetites.

Staple Diet (Variety is Key!): Large Crickets, Dubia Roaches, and Earthworms.
Treat Feeders (Offer Sparingly): Waxworms, hornworms (high in moisture), and appropriately sized mice (only for very large, adult females and very infrequently, as they are prone to obesity).
Feeder Size: Prey should be no wider than the width between the frog’s eyes.
Feeding Frequency:
- Juveniles: Feed every 2-3 days.
- Adults: Feed every 5-7 days.

Handling: Minimize handling. While they tolerate it better than most frogs, skin contact can stress them and absorb irritants from human hands. If you must handle, wear wet, powder-free gloves.
Cleaning: Spot-clean feces daily (especially from the water bowl). Disinfect and clean the water bowl daily. Deep-clean the entire enclosure every 4–6 weeks if non-bioactive.
Fun Fact: They secrete a waxy coating to help them survive dry periods, giving them their characteristic “dumpy” appearance.